Ferðir

London walks

Ferðir

Shopping

Most shops are open 9-17 Monday-Saturday. Some open one hour earlier and close one hour later. Some close earlier on Saturday. Covent Garden shops are also open on Sunday. Late shopping until 19 or 20 is on Thursday in the West End, elsewhere on Wednesday. In many shops foreign visitors can fill out a form for later refund of VAT.

London really shines when it comes to specialty shops. Some of them date from the last century or even before that. Antique shops as an example are categorized in dozens of special subjects, epochs or countries. Most of these shops are in the St James’s district and the eastern part of the Mayfair district.

It is a joy to shop or window-shop in old, famous and often expensive shops, not maybe for buying anything but for sightseeing them as other important landmarks of the city. And ancient commerce in London is no less interesting than old churches, museums and sculpture.

We start our guided tour through London shopping in front of St James’s Palace, on the corner of Pall Mall and St James’s Street.

Hardy

61 Pall Mall. (D3).

One of the most famed sport fishing shops in the world is on the Pall Mall side of the corner, at no. 61. You can buy there the most expensive rod-wheels obtainable, of course specially made by hand for the establishment as most other things on display, such as rods of fiberglass and carbon threads.

Almost at the other end of Pall Mall, near Haymarket, is the other famous house for sport fishing, Farlow, at no. 56, which has an edge in being a purveyor to the Royal Court. Even those who do not believe in royalty must admit that it knows a lot about salmon fishing.

We walk around the corner into St James’s Street.

Berry Brothers

3 St James’s Street. (D3).

The oldest wine boutique in London, from the 18th C., at no. 3. The furnishings are ancient and the floor is far from horizontal. Inside there is the famous scale where renowned customers and weighted.

Two other things are of note here: All the wine is available on the premises. And it is less expensive than in most other wine shops in London. On our last visit Chateau Langloa-Barton 1971 did only cost £12 and Kiedricher Sandgrub only £7.

Alongside there is another important shop.

Lock

6 St James’s Street. (D3).

A hat shop from 1765, at no. 6. One of the landmarks of London is the ancient equipment resembling an old typewriter, which is still used to record the shape of the clients’ heads. After measurement a suitable hat is heated and then molded in a form fitting the client.

This is the place where the first bowler in the world was made. But nowadays they also sell sixpensers. The shop also boasts of an unique collection of old hats.

A few steps farther along the street we come to another shop of note.

Lobb

9 St James’s Street. (D3).

This shop at no. 9 has made shoes for the royal family for several decades. In the small shop there is a thrilling smell of leather and we can observe the shoemakers at their work. Replicas of customers’ feet are cut in wood and all shoes are handmade.

They cost at least £150 the pair and you have to wait for them for six months. But they are also supposed to last for a decade with proper maintenance.

Next we turn right into King Street.

Christie‘s

8 King Street. (D3).

One of the two world-renowned auction houses, at no. 8. Mondays they usually auction pottery and porcelain; Tuesdays drawings, coins, glass and antiques; Wednesdays jewelry, books and weapons; Thursdays furniture and wine; and on Friday they auction paintings. The auctions normally start at 11. The items are usually exhibited for two days before the auction.

We walk back a few steps and turn right into Bury Street, which we walk all the way to Jermyn Street.

Turnbull & Asser

71 Jermyn Street. (D3).

We have come to the main shopping street for men, Jermyn Street. On our left corner, at no. 71, there is a shirt shop for men. It sells both ready-made and specially cut shirts, which you have to wait six weeks for. The establishment is always fashionable even if it was founded in 1885. Both service and prices are in the sky.

On the right side we have Hilditch & Key, the other famous shop for men’s shirts. This one has also shirts for women.
We now work to the east along Jermyn Street and soon arrive at other interesting shops.

Floris

89 Jermyn Street. (D3).

On the right side of the street, at no. 89, an 250 years old outfit, offering perfume since 1730. Everybody can afford to buy bathing salts here in order to use the occasion to have a look around in one of the great perfumery shops of the world.

Do remember that Chanel and other Parisians are only 19th and 20th C. upstarts. This is a delightful and of course an especially fragrant shop.

Just a little farther on the same side we come to another shopping landmark.

Paxton & Whitfield

93 Jermyn Street. (D2).

The most celebrated and most enjoyable cheese house in the city, at no. 93. It has operated since the end of the 18th C. Here you can buy all the best English cheeses, both Stilton and Cheddar, in addition to 300 other types from all corners of the world.

They also sell the cheese in thin slices. If they do not have the cheese you ask for, they will deliver it before the end of the tenth day.

Now we cross the street and walk back a few steps until we arrive at Princes Arcade to the right, leading to Piccadilly. It is one of a few pedestrian shopping arcades in the metropolis. In Piccadilly we turn left and immediately we arrive at a gem of a shop.

Hatchards

187 Piccadilly. (D2).

The oldest book-shop in London, located here at no. 187 since 1767. Over 350,000 titles are on four floors. The atmosphere is enticing for bookworms with plenty of time on their hands.

We continue a few steps along Piccadilly and enter one of the major landmarks of London.

Fortnum & Mason

181 Piccadilly. (D2).

Here at no. 181 is the traditional gourmet shop in town and the Queen’s grocer at the same time. The specialty of the house is preserves and jams in jars and tins. The shop is gastronomically really not comparable to Harrods, but it is worth a visit because of the unique atmosphere accented by attendants in coat-tails.

Above the ground floor there are normal department store goods for sale.

A few steps farther along Piccadilly there is Piccadilly Arcade, a nice little pedestrian lane, leading like Princess Arcade to Jermyn Street. Then we cross Piccadilly as on the opposite side is the most famous arcade of them all.

Burlington Arcade

Burlington Arcade. (D2).

The most elegant and famous pedestrian passage in London, built 1815-1819. Many renowned, small shops are in particularly relaxed and comfortable surroundings in the arcade.

The least we can do is to walk back and forth in the passage. Arriving again at Piccadilly we walk a few steps to the right. Then we turn right into Old Bond Street.

Charbonnel et Walker

7 Old Bond Street. (D2).

The disco Embassy is on this side of the street, at no. 7. A little farther on the other side is the best known chocolate boutique in London, Carbonnel et Walker, where customers can have their initials on the sweets they buy.

Alongside the shop we see one more pedestrian passage, Royal Arcade. Almost opposite on the other side of Old Bond Street there is a famous establishment.

Truefitt & Hill

23 Old Bond Street. (D2).

The most famed barber in town, at no. 23, has the Duke of Edinburgh and the Prince of Wales among the clients, also half the House of Lords. It is also the oldest barber in London. You will have your hair nicely cut at a price which is not higher than elsewhere in the center.

Here the street changes it name to New Bond Street. On the other side we soon notice one more famous shop.

Asprey

167 Old Bond Street. (D2).

One of the better known jewelers, at no. 167, with many imposing windows facing the street. And of course this shop is a purveyor to the Royal Court.

Please note that we are only mentioning a few gems among lots of other shops of interest.

We continue north along New Bond Street and make a short detour to the left into Bruton Street.

Holland & Holland

33 Bruton Street. (D2).

At the gunsmiths at no. 33. you can, as the Duke of Edinburgh, get terribly expensive hunting guns with a waiting time of three years and a half.

We can also look to the south side of the street to observe how the old tavern Coach & Horses contrasts with the faceless modern buildings around.

Back in New Bond Street we continue to the north.

Wildenstein

New Bond Street. (D2).

The king of antique paintings dealers in the world has his world central premises on this side near the corner of Bruton Street. Here paintings change owners for enormous sums.

On the opposite side, at no. 26, there is Tessiers, one of the oldest and most revered antique jewelry shops in London.

Antiques enthusiasts should know that we are only skimming the enormous antiques scene in Mayfair.

Farther along the right side we come to a landmark.

Sotheby‘s

35 New Bond Street. (D2).

One of the two London auction houses of world fame, at no. 35. This one is the older one and probably the better known one. It is also bigger, holding about 500 auctions each year. The items are on exhibition for one week before the auction and catalogues are available one month beforehand.

Mondays are for books and glass, Tuesdays for books and porcelain, Wednesdays for paintings, Thursdays for silver and jewelry and Fridays for furniture and objects of art.

Here New Bond Street is changing from a street of classic English shops into a street of the subsidiaries of the international fashion houses of Paris and Milan. We soon cross Grosvenor Street and continue on New Bond Street to a shop on the right side.

Smythson

54 New Bond Street. (D2).

The paper shop on the right side, at no. 54, is a purveyor to the Royal Court. It specializes in innovative and outrageous letterheads and Christmas cards. You will find there some charming gifts.

Next we turn left into Brook Street to the west and immediately after that to the right into South Molton Street.

South Molton Street

South Molton Street. (D2).

A lively pedestrian street with small shops and pavement cafés.

On the right side we enter an establishment.

Molton Brown

58 South Molton Street. (D2).

The hairdresser at no. 58 is the most celebrated one in town, decorated in a turn-of-the-century style.

We walk a little farther on this side of the street.

Higgins

42 South Molton Street. (D2).

One of the best coffee shops in London, at no. 42, gleaming of copper and fragrant of beans from all corners of the world, including beans from Higgins’ private fields on the slopes of Kilimanjaro. Here around 30 types of coffee are sold in an atmosphere of bygone times. Please note the big scales.

Almost alongside there is one more gem.

Prestat

40 South Molton Street. (D2).

The best chocolate maker in the metropolis, at no. 40. The sweets are made by hand on the premises and sold fresh over the antique counter. Originally this shop was in Paris but moved here in the beginning of this century. Without doubt you can get here the best sweets in London, especially truffles and cherry brandy.

We have now reached Oxford Street.

Oxford Street

Oxford Street. (D2).

Most of the amusing shops are behind us and now the seriousness of the department stores is in front of us. Oxford Street is one of the main shopping streets in London and by far the most important street of department shops.

First we turn westward on Oxford Street on its south side until we have passed the imposing Selfridge palace on the other side. There we cross the street and enter a store on the left side of the palace.

Marks & Spencer

458 Oxford Street. (C2).

The main store of the famous chain, at no. 458, one of the best department stores in town, if you compare quality and price and want value for money. 30 thieves are said to be apprehended here per day.

We return on Oxford Street and have a look into the big palace.

Selfridges

Oxford Street. (C2).

The immense and trustworthy department store often offers better choice than the famous Harrods. As it will take a whole day to inspect the store we save it for a special trip later, given time.

While strolling east along Oxford Street we do some window-shopping. On the far corner of Oxford Circus we come to another famous department store.

Top Shop

Oxford Circus. (D2).

In the cellar of the Peter Robinson department store. It is one of the most spacious fashion floors in Europe. Many well-known fashion houses have their private stands there. This is a good place for trying on the newest fashion without paying outrageous prices.

Now we turn south along the eastern side of Regent Street and continue our window-shopping. Soon we reach one more department store.

Liberty

210 Regent Street. (D2).

A captivating department store, at no. 210, rather more expensive than most of the others. It also boasts of a beautiful half-timbered facade toward Great Marlborough Street. That part is built from the timbers of the last two timer ships of the navy in 1924.

Here you can get famous, printed cottons and Eastern rugs, fine silk and furniture. The items range from antiques to high fashion.

Behind Liberty, on the corner of Great Marlborough Street and Carnaby Street there is an interesting shop.

Galt

Great Marlborough Street. (D2).

A special shop for educational toys, many solely produced for this shop. Wood is much in evidence in the appealing toys. This is a good shopping place for parents who wish to keep standards in their gifts to the children.

We ignore Carnaby Street and its tourists as its days of fame have long since passed, blessed were they. Instead we return to Regent Street and turn south past Liberty to a large shop of interest.

Hamley’s

200 Regent Street. (D2).

One of the giants of toy shops of this world, at no. 200.

Here we cross Regent Street and go into Conduit Street and then turn left into Savile Row, the address of the best-known bespoke tailors in the British Empire.

Huntsman

11 Savile Row. (D2).

The top bespoke tailor, at no. 11, the tailor of kings and lords. Around 1800 this shop changed from a glove shop into a sportswear shop, since then evolving into a general clothes shop. But its specialty is still sportswear.

You can have whatever sewn here, both for women and men, even clothes from denim. But you have to expect a waiting of twelve weeks and to pay at least £400 for the privilege of clothes which should keep for a quarter of a century if you can take care of your lines for such a long time.

At the south end of Savile Row we turn left into Vigo Street, cross Regent Street and go directly into Brewer Street.

Slater & Cooke, Bisney & Jones

67 Brewer Street. (E2).

The butchers’ shop with the long name, at no. 67, is from 1860 and is still one of the most thrilling meat shops in town. Every type of meat is displayed at its special counter and the displays do a lot for your saliva. Therefore it is high time to use the occasion to finish our shopping spree and enter one of the many restaurants in the area.

A few shops in addition are worth a visit, but do not fit into our recently finished stroll through St James’s and the eastern part of Mayfair. One of them is Foyle.

Foyle

119-125 Charing Cross Road. (E2).

The largest bookshop in London with four million titles. It has often proved to be a safer bet than some of the specialized bookshops. It is rather disorganized though, and it is advisable to ask the way on the ground floor not to get lost on the higher storeys.

In the eastern side streets of Charing Cross Road, such as Cecil Court, are many good merchants of antique books, where you can while away the days.

We continue to seek out stores in London.

Purdey

57 South Audley Street. (C2).

The royal gunsmith, the perfect place for buying a firearm for your fox-hunting, if you have £ 30,000 available and can wait for two years. If you become bankrupt in doing so you can always sell the firearm at a profit, as there are always buyers waiting. Every gun is handmade according to the measurements of the client and only 100 are made each year.

Whittard

11 Fulham Road. (B4).

The traditional tea-shop of the metropolis, near the South Kensington station. It offers over fifty different types plus many blends and herbs. Here civilization is kept intact after the invasion of tea-bags.

King’s Road

King’s Road. (C4).

A great shopping district centers on King’s Road, from Sloane Square to the southwest, but it does not quite keep the style it had in the sixties when this was the fashion center of London.

The district moving upwards and upmarket at the moment is Covent Garden. The restoration of the market has pumped blood into shopping in the surrounding streets. That is the place where to search for interesting, new shops.

We finish by visiting a temple of shopping, the Harrods department store.

Harrods

Brompton Road. (C3).

A celebrated landmark. The reason for us liking it is not that they sell you live elephants. The choice of goods is in many cases inferior from that of Selfridges. And thrice in a row we have been reduced to go elsewhere, as a top product was not available here.

What is really ravishing here is the food department on the ground floor. It is far better than Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly and comes near to the gourmet magazines of Paris. It does not lessen the impression that the meat hall resembles a cathedral. Here you can get three different types of real caviar and fresh goose-liver to go with you champagne for breakfast.

In the neighborhood there is a good shopping district around Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, the north end of Sloane Street and Beauchamp Place, which is a charming street leading off Brompton Road.

We end by having a quick look into Beauchamp Place.

Beauchamp Place

Beauchamp Place. (C4).

A charming shopping street leading off Brompton Road.

Tower

(I2).

One of the main landmarks of the metropolis, the Tower of London, was built in 1077 and the following years by William the Conqueror, more as an admonition to the population than a defense against external threats. Its White Tower is one of the oldest substantial castles in Western Europe, a good example of the rectangular, towerlike castles of the Normans.

At that time the Romans had been away for over six centuries. London make few ripples in world history during Anglo-Saxon rule. The city first began to grow as a commercial center after the Normans had taken over. Richard the Lionhearted started to build ramparts around the White Tower late in the 12th C. At the close of the 13th C. it had acquired more or less its present look.

It was a royal residence all the way to the 17th C., an arsenal and a treasury. The royal jewels are still kept there and exhibited. The jewels and the Tower are guarded by the famed Yeoman Warders, better known as Beefeaters, in 16th C. Tudor costumes.

We enter through the Middle Tower gate, cross the moat between the inner and outer fortifications, and continue to the central grounds of the castle, dominated by the central White Tower.

White Tower

(I2).

White Tower rises from the grounds with over four meter thick walls and towers on all four corners. It is the original part of the castle, from 1077. Inside there is an interesting collection of armor and arms on the two lower floors. Above them is the Chapel of St John from 1080, still looking much the same as nine centuries ago, a perfect example of early Norman architecture.

In the grounds we see the waiting line for the crown jewels exhibition. The line moves quickly. but it is advisable to be here as soon a possible after the Tower is opened at 9:30 to evade the crowds. Among the jewels is the greatest diamond in the world, the 530 carats Star of Africa from the Cullinan stone, and the historical 109 carats Kohinoor diamond.

On our way back out of the grounds we first enter Bloody Tower.

Bloody Tower

(I2).

Tower was the prison of well known enemies of the sovereign, such as Anne Boleyn, Mary Stuart and finally Rudolf Hess during the 2nd World War.

In the Bloody Tower Richard III is said to have had the little princes put to death.

We leave by the Traitors’ Gate, through which prisoners could be brought on boats into the castle. We pass the Bell Tower from the early 13th C. and cross the moat again to exit by the Middle Tower. Out of the castle we walk down to the Thames embankment, where we have an excellent view of the castle, and also of Tower Bridge.

Tower Bridge

(I3).

This bridge is the one farthest downriver, built 1886-1894 in a Gothic imitation in Victorian style. It is a drawbridge, surprisingly quick in letting ships pass through.

From the bridge there is a splendid view over the river and the battleship Belfast, which is moored and on exhibit to the west of the bridge.

We continue along the embankment, go past the Tower hotel and arrive at St Katherine’s Dock.

St Katherine‘s Dock

(I3).

The dock was made in 1827-1828 and was then one of the main harbors of London, and the harbor closest to the City. Now a few old ships have been collected there, among them the Discovery, used by Scott on his journey to Antarctica.

A disused warehouse has been renovated and changed into the Dickens Tavern, a fine place for a pint after this sightseeing walk.

Then we take the shortest way along a walking path on the north side of the harbor up to Tower Hill underground station, where we see remains of the ancient London Wall.

London Wall

(H2).

From the pedestrian subway under the street from the station to the Tower we can see remains of the London Wall, built by Romans around the city after queen Boadicea of the Celts had destroyed London in the year 61. Then Londinium, as the Romans called it, was a young city, only about two decades of age.

The remnants of the wall can be seen elsewhere around City and are mainly from the 2nd D. Some streets in City still show in their names where there were gates in the wall: Ludgate, Newgate, Aldersgate, Moorgate, Bishopsgate and Aldgate.

The wall was not moved when the city grew. Instead it was repeatedly rebuilt in the same place during the Middle Ages. Most of the present-day City, except for the Fleet Street area, is inside the limits of the old wall.

This walk is at its end.

City

Ancient London was built in the area that now constitutes the City. It was always a commercial town. The kings moved to neighboring Westminster in the 11th C. to build their palaces there. An ensuing battle of power between City and Westminster reflected the battle of power between merchants and aristocrats.

Ever since the City has retained a special position, both in London as a community and in relation to the Crown. Its system of liveried societies of merchants and tradespeople, who elect a mayor, has survived until this day.

Now City is best known as one of the great world centers of banks and other financial institutions. It is also known for its many churches, with the immense St Paul’s as the primary example.

When we embark from the Bank underground station we are on a famous corner where seven of the main streets of City radiate in all directions. The Bank of England is on our left side.

Bank of England

Hours: Open Monday-Friday 10-17 and in summer Sunday 11-17. (H2).

The bank was founded in 1694 to raise money for military campaigns. It evolved into the central bank of England and its currency bank. The present building is from 1788. It is now a museum displaying items from the history of the bank.

The Stock Exchange can be seen behind the Bank of England. It is a modern building that houses the third biggest stock exchange in the world. A stock exchange has been here since 1773. The public gallery is not open to the public any more.

On the corner in front of Bank of England is the Royal Exchange.

Royal Exchange

(H2).

The Exchange has been in operation since 1565 as a center for commercial exchange of goods and money. The present building, from 1844, has a Greek colonnade front of classical proportions.

The name of the street between the Bank of England and Royal Exchange is Threadneedle Street reminding us of the market that was here in olden times, as other neighboring streets do: Cornhill, Poultry, Cheapside, Eastcheap and Bread Street. And these street names are almost the sole survivors from earlier times. All around we see appalling post-war bank architecture.

But wait. We can get a glimpse of bygone times if we walk about 100 meters into Cornhill and then take a dive to the right into the second or third pedestrian passage leading toward Lombard Street.

Lombard Street

(H2).

Between Cornhill and Lombard Street we find a surprising maze of alleys reminding us of earlier days. These passages also lead us to cozy places like the neighbors George & Vulture and the Jamaica Wine House who are like oases here. The former tavern boasts of six centuries of age and the latter of three of them.

If we continue along the mews and cross Gracechurch Street, we arrive at the Leadenhall market.

Leadenhall Market

(H2).

The market has been here since Roman times. It is now a retail market for meat, fish, vegetables, fruit and cheese. Its pride is the wildfowl. This is the place where to buy quail and grouse for Christmas.

From the market we return to Gracechurch Street and turn left along the street down to the Monument.

The Monument

(H2).

Built in memory of the Great Fire of 1666, when almost the whole of City burnt down. Once there was a good view from the top of the Monument, but it has largely been spoiled by the surrounding concrete towers of the post-war extremes in architectural ugliness.

We can continue to stroll around in City to inspect some of the churches built by the architect Christopher Wren in the years after the Great Fire. His fans can find 29 churches in City built by him, but we shall on our next walk make do with one.

We can also stroll west over King William Street, into Arthur Street and from there along pedestrian lanes to the Cannon Street underground station. A few steps from Arthur Street we stumble upon the wine bar Olde Wine Shades in a house from 1663, preceding the Great Fire. We end his walk there.

St Paul’s Cathedral

(G2).

Christopher Wren built the cathedral in the years after the great fire of 1666. In the same place there had earlier stood at least two churches, the first built in 604. The medieval church was probably even larger than Wren’s church, in spite of the latter being one of the very largest cathedrals in the world.

St Paul’s has a plan of an English Gothic church, a cross church with a very long chancel, but built in Renaissance style with Romanesque colonnades. Wren tended to the Baroque style and quarreled with the building committee who found that style too Catholic and forced him to develop the church in the Mannerist Renaissance style of Protestantism.

Over the crossing there soars a 30 meter wide dome, rather Gothic in form, resembling St Peter’s in Rome. In addition Wren was able to build the western towers in Gothic style.

We enter the church and walk along the nave to the crossing.

St Paul’s interior

The crossing is bright and spacious. It is carried by eight strong arches. Behind the ceiling there is a brick wall which carries the lantern on the top of the dome.

Where the nave and the southern transept meet there is a spiral staircase leading up to the famed Whispering Gallery with a good view down into the church, and to the Stone Gallery with a view over London. Those who do not feel dizzy at heights can continue upwards to the Golden Gallery at the feet of the top lantern and have a thrilling view in clear weather.

It seems a miracle that St Paul’s was spared during the air raids of the 2nd World War when the surrounding district burnt down and only the cathedral stood above the flames.

Inns of Court

The Inns of Court are the four legal associations in London, dating back to the 14th C. They built their offices around hidden gardens that still are gems in the western part of City.

We start at the Chancery Lane underground station. From High Holborn we walk through one of three gates, no. 21 or Fulwood Place or Warwick Court to enter Gray’s Inn.

Gray’s Inn

Hours: Open Monday-Friday 12-14, longer on Friday. (F1).

We are in a maze of alleys, courtyards, proportioned houses and fragrant gardens, a sublime oasis hidden from the tumult of the town. Here are the offices of the lawyers in Gray’s Court, one of the four legal associations of London.

This one was founded in the 14th C. The oldest houses are from the 17th C. and the gardens a little younger, designed by Sir Francis Bacon. They are open to the public 12-14 on weekdays and further into the afternoon on Friday.

We return to High Holborn through one of the passages. On the other side of the street, a little to the left, we see Staple Inn.

Staple Inn

(F1).

A row of houses, which are four centuries old, built 1586-1596. This front is the only example in London of how the finer streets looked like in the days of Elizabeth I. Do notice the half-timbering with beams and gables and overhanging storeys. In the middle an arcade leads to the courtyards behind.

A little more to the west High Holborn meets Chancery Lane to the south. We turn into that street and walk along the eastern facade of Lincoln’s Inn, go past its Stone Buildings Gate and arrive at the Gatehouse of Lincoln’s Inn.

Lincoln‘s Inn

Hours: Open 12-14:30. (F2).

The Gatehouse still has its original oak doors from 1518, almost half a millennium old. The brick building has square towers in the corners.

Behind it there is the Old Square with buildings from Tudor times, restored in 1609. The Old Hall is from 1490. The chapel at the north end of the square dates from 1619-1623.

The proper gardens are to the west, elegant and pleasant, surrounded by the old and traditional architecture from those times when good taste had not gone out of fashion.

From the gardens we stroll south New Square and through a gate from 1697 to Carey Street where we are behind the palace of the Royal Courts of Justice. We walk around the eastern side of the palace to arrive at its front end in Fleet Street.

Royal Courts of Justice

(F2).

An ornamental Neo-Gothic palace from Victorian times, housing the main civil courts of London, often with television crews in front. The public is admitted to all the proceedings in the courtrooms.

On the other side of Fleet Street we see a gateway. Prince Henry’s Room is alongside the gateway.

Prince Henry‘s Room

Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 11-14. (F2).

The original, half-timbered building was built in 1610, paneled with oak.

We enter the gateway to the Middle Temple.

Middle Temple

(F2).

One of the legal villages in City. The gatehouse of red brick from 1684 is by Christopher Wren. Behind it we find a new maze of passages, courtyards and squares, with less greenery than we saw in the other Inns of Court.

Of special interest is the Middle Temple Hall from 1562-1570, especially the roof beams and oak partitions. The hall is closed 12-15. The story goes that Shakespeare performed himself here in The Midsummer Night’s Dream in 1602.

To the east there is an alley to the Inner Temple, one more of the legal associations leading us to the Templar Church.

Inner Temple

(F2).

This is the village of the last of the four legal associations dominating this walk through the western part of City.

We come to the circular Temple Church.

Temple Church

Hours: Open 10-17. (F2).

The most important building in the Inner Temple. It is the Templar Church, circular like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. It was built 1160-1185 and is one of the oldest Gothic buildings in Britain.

The church was the center of a great monastery founded by the Templar Knights about 1160. That order was disbanded in the 14th C. Then the lawyers took over and have since then been in charge.

We walk Inner Temple Gateway through a half-timbered gateway from 1610 in Tudor style, restored in 1906. Here we are again in Fleet Street.

Fleet Street

(F2).

It is at the western end of City, the great street of journalism in the earlier decades of the century, but now most of the media have moved elsewhere. Just by Middle Temple Gateway there is Temple Bar, which the Queen is not allowed to pass into City without a special permission from the Lord Mayor of London, who is elected by the livery companies or trade guilds.

If we walk Fleet Street to the east, past Inner Temple Gateway, we soon reach el Vino wine bar. From the north side of the street numerous alleys lead north, among other places to Dr. Johnson’s House from about 1700. On the same side of Fleet Street is Cheshire Cheese, an old pub from 1667.

From here the newspaper and news agencies buildings dominate the street all they way east to Ludgate Circle where we see St Paul’s cathedral towering on the hill beyond. Under the rails at Ludgate Circus is the wine bar Mother Bunch’s If we walk west along New Bridge Street to the Blackfriars station, the Black Friar pub is opposite the station.

This walk is at its end.

Covent Garden

(E2).

London has as other cities and towns and villages of the world got a city center life, its human centerpoint for locals and visitors. A decade ago the famous fruit and vegetable market was moved out of Covent Garden and a human desert was left behind. But now the market and its surroundings have been given a new lease of life with systematic civic action.

It is now pulsating in pavement cafés and pubs. The market building itself is from 1832 and the iron and glass roofs are younger. Now it houses cafés, pubs, wine bars, small shops, fashion boutiques and outdoor markets. The balcony of the Punch & Judy pub is an optimal observing point for the happenings in the square below.

Inside the market there is the outdoor Cafe Delicatessen and at the other end the good wine bar Crusting Pipe. All these places are suitable for resting your feet between visits to the shops in the market and in the neighborhood. Covent Garden has refuted the fallacy of London being such a rainy place to make sidewalk cafés impossible. Restoration has succeeded above all dreams.

We start by going to the square between the Covent Market buildings and the church of St Paul’s.

The Piazza

(E2).

Usually there are happenings here at lunch time when the human flow is at its heaviest. There are also happenings at other times, but lunch is the best time. We observe at one single lunch time a man with a marionette doll, a rock band and a contortion artist.

The optimal observing point is the balcony of the Punch & Judy bar as from there you can see over the heads of the crowd.

The streets leading west from the piazza, King Street and Henrietta Street are interesting restaurant streets, full of life. Even more agreeable is the pedestrian New Row, a continuation of King Street.

We observe the church in front of us.

St Paul’s in Covent Garden

(E2).

The 350 years old church was designed by the famous Palladian architect Inigo Jones. It is the most beautiful and the first Neoclassic district church in London. Now it is the funeral church of the theater set.

We walk past the Covent Garden market buildings and the short and pedestrian Russell Street to Bow Street, where we turn left, go past the Floral Hall of glass to the Royal Opera building.

Royal Opera

(E2).

The present building has a portico and pediment facing Bow Street, but the opera itself has been here since 1728, starting with The Beggar’s Opera. It houses both the Royal Opera and the Royal Ballet. It is one of the most important opera houses of the world and has been a magnet for other theaters in the same district.

We continue on Bow Street, turn left into Long Acre and right into the pedestrian Neal Street.

Neal Street

(E2).

19th C. warehouses have been converted into boutiques, galleries and restaurants, many of them specializing in health. The best known part of the street is north of Shorts Gardens. On our left there is Neal’s Yard with the Wholefood Warehouse, overflowing with health foods.

We walk Shorts Gardens to the southwest and turn left into Monmouth Street which soon changes into St Martin’s Lane.

St Martin’s Lane

(E2).

The area around St Martin’s Lane has many theaters and restaurants. One of the streets leading off it, to the right, is Garrick Street, with the literary Garrick Club, and right off Garrick Street, we have Rose Street with the oldest pub in London, Lamb and Flag, from 1623.

Further down St Martin’s Lane there is a boutique and restaurant street leading to the left, New Row.

Arriving on St Martin’s Lane to Trafalgar Square, we come to St Martin-in-the-Fields on our left.

St Martin-in-the-Fields

(E2).

This beautiful and Neo-Classic church was built in 1722-1726, resembling a Roman temple with the addition of a tower and a spire. This design has been very influential in America, where it lay the groundwork of the Colonial style.

Inside the church is unusually wide and bright. It has for decades been and still is a social center and a shelter for drug addicts and vagrants, providing free soups.

On the other side of the street the National Gallery overlooks Trafalgar Square.

National Gallery

2 St Martin’s Place, Trafalgar Square. Hours: Open 10-18, Sunday 14-18. (E2).

One of the greatest art galleries in the world, well organized, well labeled and well lit. The paintings are over 2000 and cover the whole history of art except for modern art and British art which are in Tate Gallery. This one is in the forefront in the world in scientific restoration of paintings. It is also famous for changing exhibitions around themes in the history of art.

To the left Italian paintings are in more than twenty rooms, covering the whole way back to the Renaissance. There you can see works by Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Mantegna, Michelangelo, Rafaelo, Titian and Tintoretto. To the north in the same wing are the Dutch and Flanders paintings, including Rembrandt, Vermeer, van Dyck, Rubens, van Eyck, Hieronimus Bosch and Brüghel.

The French are in the Eastern wing, among them Delacroix and the impressionists Manet, Monet, Renois and Pisarro, and the younger Degas, Cézanne and van Gogh. There also the Spanish Velasques, El Greco and Goya, and the English Hogarth, Gainsborough, Constable and Turner.

In the same block to the back the National Portrait Gallery has over 5000 paintings of famous people from the history of Britain, with recent additions of photos and cartoons.

Trafalgar Square

(E2).

The geographical center of London. Roughly speaking it has Covent Garden to the east, Soho to the north, St James’s to the west and Westminster to the south. On the southern corner of the square there is an equestrian statue of Charles I, from where all distances and roads are measured in Britain.

We go to the middle of the square.

Nelson Monument

(E2).

On the middle of the square a statue of admiral Nelson towers on a granite column of 52 meters, surrounded by four bronze lions and thousands of living doves which a favorite with children. Above the square is the long and low facade of the National Gallery.

From the column we turn northeast into The Strand.

Strand

One of the major theater streets in London, connecting Trafalgar Square with Fleet Street.

We can continue on Strand or turn back to Trafalgar Square where there is a short walk north to the start of the next walk, at Leicester Square.

Soho

(E2).

Soho is a district of many faces, a district of cinemas and sex chops, of bookshops and Chinatown. It has the quiet Leicester Square with its greenery and the noisy Piccadilly Circus with its neon signs.

In olden times Soho was a sleazy district full of danger. Now it is relatively safe, but still somewhat vulgar.

We start our walk at Leicester Square.

Leicester Square

(E2).

A quiet garden with hospitable benches for resting tired bones. It has a statue of Charlie Chaplin in the center, probably to remind us of the many cinemas around. A very popular kiosk is selling theater tickets at reduced rates on the day of the performance.

From the northwest corner of the square we take Coventry Street to Piccadilly Square.

Piccadilly Circus

(E2).

A noisy traffic knot surrounded by noisy neon signs and shopping malls. In the middle there is a statue of Eros, one of the main landmarks of London. Visiting young people traditionally gather at the statue, some of them stoned.

Halfway on the way back Coventry Street crosses Wardour Street which leads us north into Chinatown.

Chinatown

(E2).

The area around Wardour Street has lots of good Chinese restaurants, especially in pedestrian Gerrard Street with Chinese street-lamps, leading off to the right.

We are still on Wardour Street, cross Shaftesbury Avenue and continue on Wardour Street, turn left a few steps and then to the right into Rupert Street with its continuation in Berwick Street.

Berwick Street

(E2).

These two streets are the venue of a colorful market of vegetables, fruits and flowers which has been here since 1778.

From the north end of Berwick Street we thread through side streets and peaceful Soho Square to Charing Cross Road where there is Foyle and other bookshops. The nicest street of antique bookshops is Cecil Court, leading east off Charing Cross Road, full of treasures for book lovers.

St James’s

The classy, British and quiet district of central London, reaching from The Mall to Piccadilly, from Trafalgar Square to Green Park, centered on St James’s Palace. This is the district of the most venerable shops from bygone centuries and most of the best known gentlemen’s clubs in Britain.

We start at the Trafalgar Square end of the street and work our way westward.

Pall Mall

The main street of the classy St James’s district. When we have crossed Haymarket we see the first St James’s club on the opposite side of the street. This is the Institute of Directors.

Then we pass Travelers Club at no. 106 and Reform at no. 104, from where Phileas Fogg was supposed to have started his journey around the world in 80 days. The big palace is the Royal Automobile Club and then comes Oxford & Cambridge Club at no. 71. Opposite it on the north side of the street there is the Army & Navy club.

The British venerable tradition of gentlemen’s clubs has been in decline for several years, forcing clubs to combine or to fold. A tradition of activity has replaced a tradition of inactivity. Nowadays rich people don’t have time to hang out in clubs for hours on end.

At the end of the street we come to St James’s Palace on the left side of the street.

St James‘s Palace

(D3).

The real royal palace of the British Empire, where the Queen receives foreign ambassadors. From that tradition comes the wording “to be accredited to the court of St James’s”. Buckingham Palace is only a royal residence, not the royal palace.

In this low and strange-looking pile of a palace from Tudor times, built in 1532, the kings of England lived from 1698 when Whitehall Palace burned down, to 1837, when Buckingham Palace was preferred. From the balcony of the gatehouse of red brick with octagonal towers new monarchs are proclaimed.

A part of the royal court lives at St James’s Palace. Connected with the palace on the west side is Clarence House, residence of the Queen Mother. On both sides to the back there are mansions, Marlborough House to the east and Lancaster House to the west, now a conference center.

In front of St James’s Palace we turn right from Pall Mall into St James’s Street.

St James’s Street

(D3).

This is concentrated clubland. On the left side there is Carlton, the best known conservative club. A few steps later we find a narrow street leading to the hotels Dukes and Stafford. Still farther up, on opposite sides of the street there are the clubs Brook’s at no. 61 and Boodle at no. 28. Finally near the Piccadilly crossing we have the White’s club.

We turn left into Piccadilly.

Piccadilly

(D3).

The address of quality shops dealing in luxury items.

The best known landmark in Piccadilly is the Ritz hotel on this side of the street. A little further on, Piccadilly marks the northern boundary of Green Park and reaches its end at the Hyde Park Corner.

We can walk back on the northern side of Piccadilly until we come to the next alley on the west side of Half Moon Street, leading off to the north, a short distance to Shepherd Market, marking the beginning of our next walk.

Mayfair

A district of money and elegance, built up in Georgian style, giving a unified look to much of the area. It is a district of city mansions circling around small parks, and of many of the most famous shops in London. Its best known squares are Grosvenor, Berkeley and Hanover.

The southwestern part of the district was the venue of an annual cattle fair which was closed down in 1706 and has given its name to the district.

We visited some of the shops in the eastern part of the district on our 1st walk in London. This time we shall concentrate on the western border, where the district meets the spacious Hyde Park. We start at Shepherd Market.

Shepherd Market

(D3).

Founded in 1735 to replace the former Mayfair market which had been closed down some years before. It was a food market for fish, fowl, fruit and vegetables.

Now there is a 19th C. village of passages with white, little houses, old shops, restaurants and outdoor cafés, one of the many oases of the modern city.

From the market area we walk west along Curzon Street to Park Lane where we turn right.

Park Lane

The avenue of grand hotels like Dorchester and Grosvenor House, facing the immense Hyde Park.

We walk north past the hotels all the way to Marble Arch.

Marble Arch

(C2).

Originally the entrance to Buckingham Palace but moved here due to lack of space. Here the public of London came in olden times to amuse themselves by witnessing hangings and quarterings.

From Marble Arch we go through a pedestrian subway to nearby Speakers’ Corner.

Speakers’ Corner

(C2).

In 1872 it was decided to have here freedom of speech for anybody to talk about any subject without being arrested. For a long time this was mainly a place for religious fanatics and other eccentrics, but lately there has been again an influx of serious speakers, mainly emigrants from states which do not practice free speech. Speakers’ Corner is liveliest on Sundays.

We now walk into Hyde Park.

Hyde Park

(C3).

The biggest open space in London, if its western end, Kensington Gardens, are included. This is a terrain of 158 hectares of grassland, majestic trees, sublime flower beds and the lake of Serpentine. This is where to relax in bucolic charm, idling in an outdoor café.

Contrary to French and Italian gardens which are strictly designed, Hyde Park is an English Garden, an informal and loosely laid out garden with freer flora.

Originally Henry VIII had the garden hedged in and made it his hunting ground. But for three centuries and a half it has been open to the public.

We arrive at the Serpentine.

Serpentine

(B3).

Created in 1730 and popular for renting rowing boats to idle on it.

We continue to the southeastern corner of the park and arrive there at Aspey House.

Aspey House

(C3).

The house between the traffic lanes is reached through pedestrian subways. Built in 1778 it later became the home of general Wellington who was victorious over Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815. It has the honor of the simple address: 1 London.

It is now a museum for Wellington.

From the house we can see the Wellington Arch.

Wellington Arch

(C3).

Erected in 1828 in honor of general Wellington’s victory over Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815.

This is the end of the walk. We are near Hyde Park Corner underground station.

Buckingham Palace

(D3).

An imitation from the 19th and 20th C. of styles from bygone ages. It has been the royal residence since Queen Victoria moved there in 1837. The palace is coated in Portland stone and matches the Victoria monument in front of it and The Mall.

The palace is now open to the public. It has some curiosity value but visits to other historical buildings in London are more interesting.

We turn our attention to the monument in front of the palace.

Queen Victoria Memorial

(D3).

A white marble statue from 1910 with a bronze statue of Queen Victoria. It dominates The Mall and the Buckingham Palace.

This is a very good viewpoint. Looking around we see Green Park to the northwest, The Mall leading northeast, St James’s Park to the east and Buckingham Palace to the southwest.

We await the Changing of the Guards.

Changing of the Guards

The colorful ceremony occurs at 11:30 all days in summer and every other day in winter. A little before that the guards march from Wellington Barracks at Birdcage Walk to the left of the palace. We move a little along the pavement to see better. They march in step in tune with the military music.

First there is a prologue. Just before 11 we see the Horse Guards arrive at the square. They come from Knightsbridge and cross the northern part of the plaza into The Mall. This is the royal regiment in dazzling finery. It passes on its way to Horse Guards Parade at the other end of the park. This happens every weekday in summer, weekdays with even month numbers in winter.

We go directly into St James’s Park.

St James’ Park

(E3).

Henry VIII had the park laid out in 1536. In the east end of the lake in the garden there is Duck Island where pelicans, swans, ducks and other birds have their nests. From the bridge over the lake there is a good view, both west to Buckingham Palace and east to the Whitehall government district.

We leave the park on the north side and enter The Mall.

The Mall

The street of pomp and pageantry in London. it leads from Trafalgar Square to the Queen Victoria Memorial in front of the Buckingham Palace. It is the traditional avenue of parades and triumph processions, lined with trees and gardens son both sides.

We end this walk by passing through Admiralty Arch and entering the Trafalgar Square. We can take a sharp turn into the Whitehall to start our next walk in London.

Westminster

Westminster is the old royal center of London, as opposite to the City center of commerce and trade. The kings moved here from Tower in the 11th C. to build their palaces there. An ensuing battle of power between City and Westminster reflected the battle of power between merchants and aristocrats.

The division continued after London had engulfed both City and Westminster. The latter is the home of government and parliament, the center of political power in the United Kingdom. The former is the home of banking and finance, the center of financial power in the United Kingdom.

We start in the southern end of Trafalgar Square and walk into Whitehall street.

Whitehall

(E3).

The name has become synonymous with the business of government carried on in the buildings around the street. In public usage the word Whitehall means the Permanent Secretaries of government and their retinue, as the word Westminster denotes the Members of Parliament and their retinue.

The street was named after an old royal palace, Whitehall. It was first owned by the archbishop of York, but Henry VIII took it from cardinal Wolsey in 1530 and made it his own royal palace. It remained so until 1698 when it burned down and St James’s took its place.

We pass The Admiralty buildings on our right side. When we have crossed the Horseguards Avenue on our left side we arrive at Banqueting House on our left side.

Banqueting House

(E3).

The most graceful house in Whitehall, the sole survivor of Whitehall Palace, built 1619-1622 by Inigo Jones, one of the most elegant houses in London, in Palladian Renaissance style, strictly mathematically proportioned, the depth of the house half of its length. The facade is classical, conveying the image of two storeys, with Ionic pilasters downstairs and Roman ones upstairs.

But inside the house only one single room with giant baroque paintings by Rubens. It was the reception hall of the former palace and its center. Now the house is rather lonely in the crowd of bigger, younger and uglier government buildings.

Opposite Banqueting House we see the Horse Guards building.

Horse Guards

(E3).

The low building from the 18th C. is guarded by the royal cavalry in red and white. Behind the building are the parade grounds of the Horse Guards. The daily ceremonies on the parade ground commence at 11:00 weekdays and 10:00 on Sunday in summer.

We continue on Whitehall until we come to Downing Street on our right.

Downing Street

(E3).

A closed street with the residences of the Prime Minister, at no. 10, and the Minister of the Exchequer. No. 10 Downing Street has been the official residence of the Prime Minister since 1731. The government cabinet meets there in the Cabinet Room.
We continue on Whitehall to the Cenotaph monument in the middle of the street.

Cenotaph

(E3).

A slim and white memorial to British soldiers who died in the 1st World War.

We continue on Whitehall to Parliament Square.

Parliament Square

(E3).

An imposing statue of Churchill by Ivor Roberts Jones dominates the square. Other statues in the square are of Palmerston, Disraeli, Peel, Lincoln and Queen Boadicea among other dignitaries.

This is the heart of Westminster, where the kings wanted to stay at a safe distance from the unruly mobs of City.

We turn our attention to Westminster Hall.

Westminster Hall

(E3).

This is the site of the first royal palace in London, built about 1000. In front, alongside Parliament Square, are the remnants of this old palace, Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus, son of William the Conqueror, in 1097-1099.

Westminster Hall is the most important secular building from Gothic times in England. At that time it was the biggest hall in Europe. In 1397-1399 it got its present look. Royal banquets were held there in the Middle Ages. Later it housed the royal court with many famous trials and the death sentence of Charles I.

Most famous is the wide hammerbeam roof made of oak. Hammerbeam roofs were an English invention making it possible to cover wider spaces with wooden roofs than had been possible before that.

Westminster Hall is a part of the more recent Westminster Palace.

Westminster Palace

(E3).

Usually called Houses of Parliament, the palace is custom built for the parliament of the United Kingdom. It covers an enormous site, built 1840-1865 in mock Gothic style. From Parliament Square we mainly see at the northern end the slender Clock Tower with the Big Ben and at the southern end the broader and bigger Victoria Tower.

The palace has been cleaned and shows well the mild and light colors of the golden and light-brown limestone. The best view is from the Thames bridges on the other side of the palace, Westminster and Lambeth bridges, and from the opposite embankment. Seen from there the palace forms a whole, with the formal riverside facade the dominant one.

Westminster Palace houses both chambers of the parliament, the House of Commons and the House of Lords, both offices and meeting halls.

We retrace our steps to Parliament Square and have a better look at Big Ben.

Big Ben

(E3).

This is the name of the bell itself, not the tower, which is called Clock Tower. The tower and the bell are from 1858-1859. The bell weights over 13 tons and the clock mechanism weights 5 tons. The tower is one of the main landmarks of London.

The sounds from Big Ben were first broadcast on radio in 1923.

We again walk south Parliament Square and continue on Margaret Street and Old Palace Yard between the Westminster Palace and Westminster Abbey and come to the Jewel Tower on the right side of the street.

Jewel Tower

Hours: Open daily 10-18 in summer, Tuesday-Sunday 10-16 in winter. (E3).

Formerly the royal treasury. The tower was built in 1366 for that purpose. It is now a museum of palace relicts. For a while the tower was also used as the weights and measures office and a part of the exhibit is devoted to that purpose.

We go back to Parliament Square and turn left between Westminster Abbey and St Margaret’s Church.

St Margaret’s

Parliament Square, SW1. (E3).

An early 15th C. Tudor church, used for society weddings.

We turn our attention to Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey

(E3).

Turning its back with the Henry VII chapel to Westminster Palace, the church is the crowning, marrying and funeral church of British sovereigns and a memorial for national heroes. As St Paul’s is the cathedral of the city, Westminster Abbey is the cathedral of the state.

First the church was a part of a Benedictine monastery. Building started in 960 and its pace was quickened after 1055, initially in Norman style but after 1220 more in Gothic style. It is a French church, higher and narrower than English churches. The nave is 31 meters, the highest in England. The western towers are the youngest part, in mock Gothic from the early 18th C.

The cathedral shows well the mild colors of the stone. At the back we can see the arches and buttresses from the time of Henry VII. The north side is even more beautiful, with an immense rose window surrounded by stylish buttresses. Before we enter the church we drop into the quiet Dean’s yard to have a view to it from the south side.

We enter the church from the west front.

Westminster Abbey interior

(E3).

We have a stunning view along the nave. In front is the memorial of Winston Churchill and behind it the grave of the unknown soldier. Both aisles are loaded with memorials. We can enter the inner part of the church through a gate in the northern aisle.

After having inspected the northern transept we pass through the ambulatory into the chapel of Henry VII which is elaborately decorated in Gothic style, with over 100 statues.

From that chapel we walk over a bridge back to Edward the Confessor’s shrine and chapel behind the altar.

St Edward’s Chapel

(E3).

The shrine contains the English coronation throne from 1300, where all English kings from William the Conqueror have been crowned. Under the throne is the Stone of Scone, the Scottish coronation stone from the 9th C, used at coronations of all Scottish kings, including Macbeth.

From here we go to the southern transept with memorials of many of the best known writers in the English language, the so-called Poets’ corner.

The southern transept has a door to the monastery which we enter to get into Chapter House.

Chapter House

Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 9:30-18:30. (E3).

A symmetrical octagonal from 1250, used in medieval times as an occasional meeting place of the parliament. The beautiful floor tiles are the original ones. The walls are decorated with medieval paintings.

And that is the end of this walk.

Museums

London is an international museum city. A few other world cities have single museums in the same class as the best London museums, but the variety of museums in London is unusually great. Some London museums are quite extensive, such as Victoria & Albert Museum with its 11 kilometers of walking.

Knightsbridge and Brompton Road are continued in Cromwell Gardens, where we start this walk in front of Victoria & Albert Museum.

Victoria & Albert Museum

Cromwell Road. Hours: Open Monday-Thursday & Saturday 10-18, Sunday 14:30-18, closed Friday. (B4).

This enormous hodge-podge is probably the biggest museum in the world. The walking distance through it measures over 11 kilometers. The exhibition rooms are 155 in number. The museum is lively and informal and concentrates mainly on applied art from all epochs and all cultures.

There is no way to explain a tour through the museum, but good maps are available at the main entrance. In half of the museum the items are categorized according to subjects, such as pottery, glass, iron and textiles. In the other half the items are exhibited according to epochs in the history of civilization.

The museum has always in store some surprises for you, even if you are a regular visitor. It is really at least a month’s work for enthusiasts of applied art.

From the museum we turn right into Cromwell Gardens, cross Exhibition Road and enter the Natural History Museum on the other side of the street.

Natural History Museum

Cromwell Road. Hours: Open 10-18. (B4).

A part of a great complex of great museums in South Kensington. The palace of this museum is now glittering in original colors since it has been cleaned. The delicate light brown and blue colors of the stone can be seen. It is Neo-Romanesque and looks almost like a Medieval cathedral.

The big foyer is dominated by a skeleton of a dinosaur. In the galleries to both sides there are a few millions of exhibited items out of a total collection of about 40 million items. Every year about 350,000 thousand items are added. Most popular is a modern exhibition about the body of man and the whale gallery with giant skeletons.

We go out, turn left into Cromwell Gardens and then again left into Exhibition Road. We have the Geological Museum on the left side.

Geological Museum

Exhibition Road. Hours: Open 10-18. (B4).

Behind the Natural History Museum, a fascinating collection of crystals, gemstones and ordinary stones. Most enjoyable is the ground floor with uncut and cut gemstones, such as diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds.

We go out, turn left on Exhibition Road and enter the Science Museum on the left side of the street.

Science Museum

Exhibition Road. Hours: Open 10-18, Sunday 14:30-18. (B4).

A giant museum about science and inventions. Children have fun in the electronic department, having a lot of gadgets, and in the children’s department, which also has a lot of levers and push-buttons. The most famous item is the pendulum in the lobby. By deviating from the vertical it shows how the earth rotates.

We leave the museum, turn left on Exhibition Road and walk all the way to Kensington Road which runs alongside the southern rim of Hyde Park. On the corner we turn left wand walk to Royal Albert Hall.

Royal Albert Hall

(B3).

An enormous round hall of red brick for giant assemblies, conferences, pop sessions and concerts for up to 7000 spectators.

Next on our museum itinerary is Tate Gallery on Millbank at the Thames riverside. A taxi would be convenient.

Tate Gallery

Millbank. Hours: Open 10-18. (E4).

Since it was expanded some years ago it can put on exhibit about one third of its 10,000 paintings at the same time. And there are still plans to add buildings. This is the gallery for British painting and international modern painting. It is famous for its purchasing policy, as sometimes it buys paintings before the colors have dried on the canvas.

In three big galleries in the middle there are usually changing exhibitions around certain themes such as the evolution of styles of painting. To the left the British painters are, including Hogart, Gainsborough and Turner.

To the right the modernists are, among them Monet, Pisarro, van Gogh, Gauguin, Cézanne, Degas, Picasso, Braque and Rouault; then Mondrian, Kandinski, Munch, Moore, Arp; then Chagall, Klee, Dali, Miro and Pollock; and finally at the back the youngest paintings from 1960 to the present day.

We do not forget the excellent lunch restaurant with a unique wine list in the cellar. Next we take some transport north through the West End of London into the Marylebone district where we arrive at the Wallace Collection.

Wallace Collection

Manchester Square. Hours: Open 10-17, Sunday 14-17. (C1).

One of the best

Paris amusements

Ferðir

Bains

7 Rue du Bourg-l’Abbé, 75003. Phone: 887 3440. Hours: Closed Monday. (F4).

A former bathhouse near Beaubourg has been converted into a punk center called Bains-Douches, which was on top when we were in Paris last time. Each night has its theme. The place also has a swimming pool and a cinema. Beware though that fortunes of this and the disco types tend to rise and fall in no time at all. The famous ones today can be forgotten tomorrow.

Castel

14 Rue Princesse, 75006. Phone: 326 9022. (D5).

The sole top nightclub on the Left bank, quite near the Saint-Germain church. The customers are the best dancers and the most diligent ones in Paris. Castel has the additional bonus that it is possible to make conversation and hear your own words. Also the decorations are the most tasteful of such disco nightclubs, a little overwhelming in the cellar.

Restaurant Princesse with its mirrors on the first floor is surprisingly good. A trick to get inside is to try to book a dinner table at Princesse. But then you should not sound like a tourist on the phone as this is the most heavily closed of all closed nightclubs in Paris. It is a haunt of actors, journalists and page-one girls, all very well dressed.

Crazy Horse

12 Avenue George V, 75008. Phone: 723 3232. (B3).

The best strip-tease in Paris, just near the Plaza-Athénée on the Right bank. Nowhere else is the show better organized into the minutest details. Alain Bernardin is responsible. All technical and optical tricks are used to lift the show far above most others in this genre.

Keur Samba

79 Rue la Boétie, 75008. Phone: 359 0310. (C3).

The center of insomniacs and of noise levels around 140 decibels in Paris, in the the middle of the fashion and nightclub district on the Right bank. It hails from Senegal, and Africans are conspicuous among the customers, for example East-African mannequins and under employed UNESCO diplomats and officials who arrive when other places close down for the morning.

Lido

116 Champs-Élysées, 75008. Phone: 563 1161. (B3).

By far the best place for all-round entertainment in classic Paris style, in the same district as most of the best nightclubs and discos. It is far better than Moulin Rouge at Pigalle which receives busloads of tourists. The spectacles of Lido are performed by elephants, waterfalls, magicians, acrobats etc.

Petit Journal

71 Boulevard Saint-Michel, 75005. Phone: 326 2859. Hours: Closed Sunday. (E6).

The best known of many jazz cellars, a small place beneath a tavern offering relatively inexpensive midnight suppers. The owner, André Damon, has both famous and unknown jazzists performing. Some come from the States, but all of them play classic jazz. The atmosphere is almost homey.

Régine’s

48 Rue de Ponthieu, 75008. Phone: 359 2113. (B3).

This one has been copied in New York and other cities. Also here it is difficult to get inside, but possible even without a membership card. In any case ties can be rented, if the doorman consents to allow you inside. Bobby Barrier directs and Régine sings. This the main club of the top fashion people. Here dances are introduced before they go out to conquer the world.

Theatre National de Chaillot

Place du Trocadéro, 75016. Phone: 727 8115. (A4).

One of the two main national theaters. Due to language difficulties it is not easy for others than French-speaking people or theater people to enjoy theater in Paris in full. As You Like It by Shakespeare was on the last time we visited the city.

Bar du Caveau

17 Place Dauphine, 75001. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. (E4).

Lawyers and politicians hang out at this wine bar in peaceful Place Dauphine on Ile de la Cité. This square is an oasis smack in the city center.

Écluse

Place de la Madeleine, 75008. Hours: Closed Sunday. (D3).

This is a chain of wine bars. They are green on the outside and brown on the inside, decorated with wide mirrors and having an ancient atmosphere, zestful and cozy at the same time. They specialize in Bordeaux wines, some of them sold by the glass, at reasonable prices.

Some other addresses of bars in this chain are: 64 Rue Francois I, 75008; 15 Quai des Grands Augustins, 75006

Harry‘s Bar

5 Rue Daunou, 75002. Hours: Open to 4 A.M. (D3).

The most important Paris bar in the American style, near the opera square, not relative of the original namesake in Venice. This one offers over 150 different whiskies and an unlimited number of cocktails. The atmosphere is both lively and civilized. This is the haunt of American intellectuals and correspondents.

Henri IV

13 Place du Pont-Neuf, 75001. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. (E4).

On the Ile de la Cité, just by Pont Neuf, those barrister and judges who are not at Bar du Caveau at the moment, are here having a glass of red wine. The specialty is Burgundy.

Pub Saint-Germain

17 Rue de l’ancienne Comédie, 75006. Hours: Open all day, all days. (E5).

The major beer pub of Paris, a few steps from the boulevard of the same name. Available are 300 different types of bottled beer and 20 of watted beer. It is open 24 hours a day.

Willi‘s

13 Rue des Petits-Champs, 75001. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. (E3).

One of the best wine bars in Paris, near the garden of Palais Royal. A British host serves at least 250 different wines, some of them by the glass. Many of his customers are bankers and journalists.

Angélina

v
226 Rue de Rivoli, 75001. (D3).

The best chocolate in Paris is here, in a big, traditional café in the arcades of Rue de Rivoli, opposite the Tuileries. The chocolate comes in several versions. The same goes for the coffee and tea. The café is often crowded.

Café de la Paix

12 Boulevard des Capucines, 75009. Phone: 260 3350. (D3).

It goes that every American in Paris passes at least once each day in front of this peculiar café at the side of the Opéra. And it offers a good view to the square and boulevards around. It has been renovated in the original style of this typical tourist café.

Christian Constant

20 Rue du Bac, 75007. (D4).

The best baker and confectioner, in the antiques quarter of the Left bank. Adjoining the shop is a small tea room, where polished Parisian ladies meet in the afternoon to sip one of the 40 different teas with honey or with one of the five varieties of sugar. And of course something sweet to nibble at.

Cour de Rohan

59-61 Rue Saint-André-des-Arts, 75006. (E5).

In a pedestrian street behind Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, in the atmosphere of the 18th Century. It is an unusually elegant café on two floors. It is furnished with antiques, but most of the guests are of the younger generations. For sale are many varieties of tea, juice, table wine, coffee and chocolate.

Deux Magots

170 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006. Phone: 4548 5525. (D5).

The most famous sidewalk café in Paris, opposite Saint-Germain-des-Prés. We can choose between observing the church tower stones of seven centuries, the performances of actors and artists on the square, or simply the classic Parisian subject, people passing by. You can spend the whole day here as the happenings are non-stop.

Now this has become a tourist place. Formerly it was a haunt of French authors and intellectuals. all the way back to the 18th Century when they were frequented by Voltaire and Rousseau, in the 19th by Victor Hugo and Balzac, Baudelaire and Zola, and in the 20th by Sartre, de Beauvoir and Camus. The last three sat in the cafés here around the church.

Ébouillante

6 Rue des Barres, 75004. (F5).

At a footpath behind the Saint-Gervais church, leading from the river bank Quai de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, a tiny and an amusing café in the style of a fishing village tavern in Normandy. It is crowded with artists and youths from the youth hostels in the neighborhood. The atmosphere is relaxed and rural. The walls are decorated with sundry objects.

Lipp

151 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006. Phone: 4548 5391. Hours: Closed Monday. (D5).

Opposite Saint-Germain-des-Prés on the other side of the Boulevard, the haunt of famous Parisians, including politicians. The owner, Roger Cazes, takes great care that all well known Frenchmen get a good table on the crowded ground floor and that all tourists are sent upstairs to Siberia.

The food is nothing to write home about, in an ancient sauerkraut-style. But in the afternoon places are obtainable for coffee on the ground floor. That part of the restaurant is beautifully decorated with tiles and wood, big mirrors and exquisite chandeliers. The interior is from 1914. Remember that the specialty is beer rather than coffee.

Battendier

8 Rue Coquillère. (E4).

One of the oldest sausages and tripe shops of the city and probably the most fascinating. It has for more than one and a half century been here, opposite the demolished Halles. The best known products are tripe sausages, blood sausages, the many patés and Parma ham. Fresh goose liver is sold around the year. Wine and patisserie is also available.

Bell Viandier

25 Rue du Vieux-Colombier. (D5).

Near Saint-Sulpice on the Left bank is an old-fashioned hole-in-the-wall for beef, amusingly furnished. Beef is available from several breeds, local and imported, cut in correct sections according to French tradition or done into ready-made dishes. Also on sale is lamb, including a special Ester lamb. And famous blood sausages. This is the best beef shop in the city center.

Berthillon

31 Rue de Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75001. (F5).

The best ice cream shop of Paris is in this shopping alley on Ile de Saint-Louis. Often a waiting line stretches into the street. The specialties of the house are more than 30 in number, excluding sorbets such as a champagne sorbet. This is the mother shop, but Berthillon ices can also be bought in many other places. The fame has not put up the prices.

Caves Miard

9 Rue des Quatre-Vents. (E5).

The most engaging wine shop is near the Saint-Germain church. The furnishings are from 1850. The shops does not specialize in regions and has an all-round choice. In between there are bottles of grand wines such as Château Cheval Blanc and Château Yquem.

Civette

157 Rue Saint-Honoré. (E4).

The major tobacco shop, aged two centuries, is between Palais Royal and the Louvre. In stock are all brands of tobacco available in France. The havanas are kept in humid rooms. There are also endless rows of pipes and all kinds of articles for smokers.

Coesnon

30 Rue Dauphine. (E5).

On the Left bank, near Pont Neuf, the best sausage maker in Paris sells the greatest number of different sausages and patés. This is also the main choucroute shop in town.

Constant

26 Rue du Bac. (D4).

The specialty of Christian Constant in the antiques quarter of the Left bank is confectionery and chocolates. The latter are made of chocolate and crème fraiche without any preservatives. And this is not only the best confectioner in Paris but also one of the best patisserie makers.

In addition he makes a lot of ice creams and sorbets and does not either use preservatives or colorings in them. He also sells 40 different teas. And finally he is a caterer.

Corcellet

46 Rue des Petits-Champs. (E3).

A pleasant shop near the Biblioteque Nationale. Paul Corcellet mainly sells preserves and jams in glass jars and rare alcohols from far-away places, also coffee and tea.

Debauve et Gallais

30 Rue des Saints-Péres. (D5).

The most elated chocolate maker has been at this place in the Saint-Germain area since 1818. The furnishings are almost unchanged since then. They are unusually charming are now protected by the authorities. It is difficult to choose between gazing at the decorations and the gooey chocolates.

Fauchon

24 Place Madeleine. (D3).

The most famous general gourmet shop in the world is beside the Madeleine. Nothing is lacking that could tempt the gourmets who come here for sightseeing as others go into the cathedrals of Paris. Also sold are take-away dishes.
We can buy date-stamped coffee from the four corners of the world; all important varieties of caviar, including white; home made confectionery and chocolates; the finest goose liver in town; perfect patisserie; 42 sorts of tea; rare black truffes; the most expensive vintage champagnes and distilled fruit spirits; and more types of herbs and spices than we thought existed.

Flahec

135 Rue Mouffetard. (F6).

A captivating, tiny fish shop is at the downhill end of this pedestrian market street. It offers some of the best choice in fish and shellfish, including many varieties that are not usually seen elsewhere in Paris.

Fruits de France

72 Rue de Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75001. (F5).

On the quaint island street, at no. 72, shopkeeper Turpin has both fruits and vegetables and also all kinds of game. Among the vegetables the many types of mushrooms are noteworthy and also the various spices and herbs. The game is available according to the season and never comes out of a freezer.

There are wild geese and ducks, sparrows, pheasants, grouses, partridges, hares, deer and also some cultivated fowl.

Gambrinus

13 Rue des Blancs-Manteaux. (F4).

In the Marais, just east of Palais Beaubourg, is the best beer shop in the city. It offers more than 400 types of beer from 34 countries, including mixed cases according to countries or brewing techniques. Also sold are books on beer and brewing. The shop also boasts of many whisky brands and malts.

Haupois

35 Rue des Deux-Ponts, 75001. (F5).

The best bread available in Paris is baked by Haupois in the street that crosses the middle of Ile de Saint-Louis. He also does some patisserie. The methods are traditional, fitting the 17th Century aura of this delightful island.

Hédirard

21 Place Madeleine. (D3).

The second most world famous gourmet shop is also beside the Madeleine. It is an all-round store. Among the most notable items are chocolates, jams, 25 years old vinegar, 80 types of jar preserves, coffee, goose liver.

Not to be forgotten are the 300.000 bottles of wine, priced from FFr. 11 to FFr. 13,000. There are 17 vintages of Château Latour alone. And the almost unobtainable Romanée-Conti is only sold here.

Lecomte

76 Rue de Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75001. (F5).

If we walk eastward along Rue de Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, we find this cheese shop on the northern side, one of the top few ones in Paris. The cheeses develop in the care of the shopkeeper himself.

Each type of cheese has its season, münster in January, roquefort in February, camembert in March, brie in April, goat cheeses in May, non-sterilized cow-cheeses in June, white cheeses in July, reblochon in August, etc.

Maison du Miel

24 Rue Vignon. (D3).

Near the Madeleine a honey shop offers over 30 different types of honey, including mountain honey and Hungarian acacia honey, all displayed at the counter. Other specialized honey shops are in the city, but this is the most important one.

Olivier

77 Rue de Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75001. (F5).

The best olives in the city are of course sold in a special olive shop. In addition to many varieties of olives, numerous types of oils are sold, not only cooking oils, but also lubricating oils from sheep legs to name an example. Not to be forgotten are the many types of vinegar, including a champagne vinegar.

Pain de Sucre

12 Rue Jean-du-Bellay, 75001. (F5).

In a small side-street near the western tip of Ile de Saint-Louis there is a tiny, enthralling shop of sweets, jams and sugars. There are a few varieties of rhubarb, jam and coffee chocolates. also fresh truffles of the day, without preservations. And all kinds of sugars, including various candied ones.

Petrossian

18 Boulevard Latour-Maubourg. (C4).

Caviar is the specialty of this gourmet shop, near the Esplanade. It always sells Russian beluga, sevruga and oscietre. Its smoked salmon is also considered the best in town.

Verlet

256 Rue Saint-Honoré. (D4).

The most aristocratic coffee and tea shop is north of the Tuileries gardens. It sells coffee from all known coffee-producing countries and also from countries such as Hawaii and Papua. Customers can test all these varieties, freshly ground, on the premises, or ask Pierre Verlet to make a special mixture for them. We can also test some of the innumerable teas on the spot.

Bastille Opéra

120 Rue de Lyon, 75012. Phone: 4001 1789. Hours: 11-18 Monday-Saturday. (G5).

A controversial opera building from 1989, a massive and circular building of glass, seating 2700 spectators, inferior to the traditional Garnier Opéra.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Dublin introductions

Ferðir

History

Dublin was founded by Norse Vikings, mainly Danish, in the 9th and 10th C. They built the first Dublin Castle. The Iri the Vikings in 988 and founded the first Christ Church in 1038. Viking influence continued in Dublin until sh took Dublin from the Vikings in 988 and founded the first Christ Church in 1038. Viking influence continued in Dublin until th by the English in the 12th C., who invaded Ireland several times and held sway in Dublin for most of the time.

English rule was generally savage. Natural catastrophes added to the misery, leading many Irishmen to flee for America. A decisive victory over the English was won in 1921 when all the Irish counties, except six in the northeast, became independent. After a civil war the Irish Free State was founded in 1923 with Dublin as its capital.

Life

The friendly and courteous Irish are a dream come true for travelers. They are helpful and fair in business, as is evident in tourism. It is the easiest and the most relaxed country for travelers. Dubliners share these traits more or less.

The pubs are the social centers of the city. Strangers meet there and almost immediately become friends. Travelers will not be lonely there as the locals are always ready for a chat with strangers. Visitors get smitten by this easy-going atmosphere and gradually start to behave and to think like the local people do.

The city is small, has only half a million inhabitants and the city center covers less than 2 km in radius from College Green. The center is mainly on the southern bank of Liffey, around on Dublin castle, the pedestrian Grafton Street and St Stephen’s Green. This is the oldest part of the city and the most beautiful part. The houses are low and the atmosphere is relaxed.

Pubs

Hours: Monday-Saturday 10:30-23:30, Sunday 12:30-14 & 16-23:30, -23 in winter.

Irish pubs are justly world famous for their easy going and friendly bartenders and customers. Each tavern has its own atmosphere made of its furnishings and clientele.

The pubs are the social centers of Dublin. Strangers meet there and almost immediately become friends. Travelers will not be lonely there as the locals are always ready for a chat with strangers. Visitors get smitten by this easy-going atmosphere and gradually start to behave and to think like the local people do.

The Irish

The friendly and courteous Irish are a dream come true for travelers. They are helpful and fair in business, as is evident in tourism. It is the easiest and the most relaxed country for travelers. Dubliners share these traits more or less.

Embassies

Canada

65 St Stephen’s Green, 2. Phone: 678 1988.

United Kingdom

31 Merrion Road, 4. Phone: 269 5211.

United States

42 Elgin Road, 4. Phone: 668 8777.

Accident

Phone: 999.

Ambulance

Phone: 999.

Complaints

Try Bord Faílte, 14 Upper O’Connell Street, tel. 874 7733.

Dentist

Lincoln Place. Phone: 679 4311.

Dublin Dental Hospital, Lincoln Place, Dublin 2, tel. 679 4311, open 9-11 and 14-16.

Fire

Phone: 999.

Hospital

Phone: 999.

Medical care

Phone: 999.

Pharmacy

Open at normal shopping hours. Closed pharmacies have signs in their windows to point out where there is night duty.

Police

Phone: 999.

Precautions

Ireland is a haven for travelers. There is very little petty crime and almost no violent crime in Ireland. The Irish are also unusually honest people. Businessmen try to give you the best deal available. But there are lots of beggars in central Dublin.

Banks

Hours: Monday-Friday 10-12:30 & 13:30-15.

Some banks are open until 17:00 on Friday and are open at lunchtime. At the airport a bank is open 6:45-22 in summer and 6:45-21 in winter.

Credit cards

Most hotels and restaurants, petrol stations and shops accept credit cards, but pubs and farmhouse accommodations do not.

Electricity

Irish voltage is 220V, same as in Europe. The plugs are different, with three pins as in Britain.

Hotels

Dublin hotels are generally rather clean and well maintained. Small hotels, are numerous and can be very good, even if they do not have TV sets in guest rooms. A bathroom is taken for granted nowadays.

We only include hotels with private bathrooms, and in most cases we also demand a direct telephone line, working air-condition, and peace and silence during the night. Only hotels in the city center are included as we want to avoid long journeys between sightseeing and our afternoon naps.

The price ranges from £57 to £170, in most cases including a substantial breakfast.

We personally tested all the hotels in this database during the winter of 1995-1996 as everything is fickle in this world. We also tested some other hotels that are not included as they were not on par with the best in each price category.

Money

The currency in Ireland is the Irish Punt, £, divided into 100 pence. There are £100, £50, £20, £10 and £5 notes and coins for £1, 50p, 10p, 5p, 2p and 1p.

Prices

Prices have lately become stable in Ireland.

Restaurants

Ireland’s wealth of agricultural resources is not reflected well enough in its restaurants. They are generally mediocre. The best ones tend to be French. Asian ethnic restaurants are often a good bet.

Shopping

Hours: Monday-Saturday 9/9:30-17:30/18.

Some shops are open Thursday to 20:00.

Tipping

Service is generally included in hotel and restaurant bills. Porters get £0,50-1 per bag, hairdressers, taxi drivers and guides get 10%.

Toilets

Restaurant lavatories are generally good. In pubs they are variable, but open for all comers.

Tourist office

14 Upper O’Connell Street. Phone: 874 7733.

The Irish National Tourist Board, Bord Fáilte.

Water

Tap water is quite drinkable.

Accommodation

Take up direct contact with the hotels before you leave from home. Use the phone or the fax.

Airport

The Dublin airport is 11 km from the center. A bus goes there every 20 minutes 7:30-20:50 and takes 30 minutes to get there. The price is £2.50. A taxi will also be 30 minutes and costs £12. For information on arrivals and departures dial 37 9900.

News

The Irish newspapers are in English, such as Irish Times, Irish Independent and Irish Press. The British dailies are widely available. A biweekly information magazine for travelers is In Dublin.

Phone

The Irish country code is 353. The local code for Dublin is 1 when dialing from abroad and 01 when dialing from outside Dublin in Ireland. The foreign code from Ireland is 00. Northern Ireland has the British country code of 44.

Post

O’Connell Street.

The main Post Office at O’Connell Street is open Monday-Saturday 9-20 and Sunday 10:30-18.

Taxis

Taxis are available at several stands in the city center.

Traffic

The most practical way to get around in central Dublin is by walking.

Traffic in Dublin is heavy and almost comes to a standstill at rush hours. Outside of Dublin traffic is generally light. The Irish drive on the left like the British, so you have be careful to look in the right direction.

Don’t use cycles on narrow country roads as many drivers speed blindly through bends.

Cuisine

Dublin is not a place for any recognizable Irish cooking. Most quality restaurants in Dublin go in for French cuisine. The Irish have embraced French cuisine as suitable for their upper class dining.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

London excursions

Ferðir

Greenwich

Greenwich is downriver. It is not only famous for the meridian of zero longitude in geography. It also has woodland surrounding the Royal Observatory, the National Maritime Museum, open 10-17 and the racing quick tea clipper Cutty Sark. The boat trip to Greenwich takes 45 minutes each way.

Kew

Upriver the Kew gardens with the Royal Botanical Gardens are open 10-16/17. They are graceful, covering over 120 hectares with over 25,000 different plants. The boat brings you to Kew in 75 minutes.

Hampton Court

Farther upriver than the Kew gardens, there is the elegant Hampton Court, the palace of Cardinal Wolsey, expropriated by Henry VIII, including a lot of paintings and objects of art now shown to the public and some of the most glorious gardens in the world.

Windsor Castle

Hours: Open 11-16, except Friday 13-16 and Sunday 14-16.

Just beyond Heathrow airport is the small town of Windsor with Windsor Castle, a summer residence of the Queen.

It is the oldest and greatest residential castle in the world, built by William the Conqueror as a circular tower, but added on during the centuries. The most famous part is the St George’s chapel, one of the best examples of English architecture in the 15th C.

The castle houses some collections, open to the public, such as the Queen Mary’s Dolls House and the State Apartments, when the queen is not using them herself.

With children in tow it is now time to visit the Windsor Safari Park.

Windsor Safari Park

An open wildlife park where we can see, partly through closed car windows, some lions, tigers, elephants, zebras, rhinos, camels, monkeys and deer, to name the best known examples. The porpoises and dolphins perform at regular intervals.

Another amusing place for children is on the way back to London. It is Thorpe Park in Staines, just south of the Heathrow airport.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Paris walks

Ferðir

Isles

It all began here. Paris was founded on the islands of Seine and later expanded to the Right and Left banks of the river. The churches Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle will be the high points of our walk around the two islands, Ile de la Cité and Ile Saint-Louis.

For the time being we save the former island, the real Paris of ancient times, and begin our walk on the farther tip of Ile Saint-Louis, at Pont de Sully. If we arrive by the metro, it is best to get off at the Sully-Morland station and walk across Pont de Sully over to the island.

Ile de Saint-Louis

Rue de Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile. (F5).

On the way over the Pont de Sully we scan the Ile Saint-Louis which architecturally is the most consistent and graceful part of Paris. On the whole this island is a pleasant and a relaxed oasis in the midst of the frenzy of the city center, almost aristocratically sleepy.

Two islands were combined in one and built with mansions 1627-1664, in the golden age of France. These houses of more than three centuries are still standing and turn their refined 17th C. Renaissance Mannerist fronts to the river banks. Behind the massive oak doors are hidden the courtyards of the mansions, or hotels as they are called in France.

Originally aristocrats and judges lived here but now there are many well-off artists and retired politicians. The widow of president Pompidou lives here. Emblems in memory of famous inhabitants of former centuries are on many house fronts.

We walk from the bridge to its intersection with Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, where our walk really begins.

Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile

(F5).

The street with the long name is the backbone of the island, the only street that goes through it lengthwise. It is full of tiny and enchanting specialty shops, interspersed with restaurants and hotels. The specialization of the shops is so far developed that there are no general butchers, only special beef shops, fowl shops, pork shops and sausage shops.

It is fascinating to observe how the street flows with pedestrians all day long. In the morning it is a world in itself, when the locals go from shop to shop to assemble their lunches and dinners before the tourists take over the scene. Some of the establishments in the street are mentioned elsewhere in this database.

There is also the church which has given its name to the island and the street, Saint-Louis, built 1664-1726, with an interior in decorous Jesuit style by Le Vau, consecrated to Louis IX.

When we arrive at the other end of the street we first observe Notre-Dame which lies open before our eyes on the far side of Pont Saint-Louis. Then we turn right and walk along the river bank around the whole island.

Quai d’Orleans

(F5).

We first stop at the bend of Quai de Bourbon and enjoy the downriver view. Then we continue along Quai d’Anjou where some of the finest mansions are, such as Hôtel de Lauzon at no. 17 and Hôtel Lambert at no. 1. In French hôtel means a town mansion and not necessarily a guest house or hotel. We turn again over Pont de Sully over to Quai de Béthune and then Quai d’Orléans.

Here one can often see sunbathers and anglers on the lower bank below the street level when the weather is fine. On the bend of Quai d’Orléans there is a splendid view through the foliage of the trees to the back of Notre-Dame which many find to be at its most beautiful from this direction.

Next we turn left over Pont Saint-Louis to Ile de la Cité. First we ignore Notre-Dame and turn right along Quai aux Fleurs. Soon we turn left down steps to Rue des Ursins.

Rue des Ursins

(F5).

It runs parallel to the bank. We are down at the original level of the island and in a medieval aura from the 11th and 12th C. Such was the island before city planner Haussmann overthrew everything on behalf of Napoleon III. We walk the narrow street to the end.

Then we turn left into Rue de la Colombe and then again to the left into Rue Chanoinesse. These streets constitute the ancient quarter of monasteries. We cross the garden behind Notre-Dame and at its backboard side. From this side we have the closest view of the cathedral.

Notre-Dame

(F5).

We see clearly the extensive system of flying buttresses supporting the walls. They are one of the main characteristics of Gothic churches. We also see the front of the transept with an enormous rose window, also spires and dragons, all typically Gothic.

When we come to the west front of the church it rises in all its majesty, with magnificent pointed arches over the portals, a row of kings’ statues, a rose window of nine meters in diameter and finally two massive and spireless towers which reach 70 meters in height.

v
The biggest bell in the south tower weighs 13 tons and its clapper half a ton. Travelers who want to enjoy the view from the tower can take the stairs, open 10-16:45 and -17:45 in summer.

We enter the church.

Notre Dame interior

(F5).

It can take 9000 worshippers at the same time. It has a crucifix plan with very short transepts. It is 31 meters high on the inside, with long, Gothic windows. It is completely surrounded by chapels nestling between the buttresses. In the transept there is a rose window on each side. An enormous chancel with an altar and an ambulatory is in the far end.

Notre-Dame is an historical landmark of architecture, a showpiece of the early Gothic. It was built in 1163-1345. All the time the original plans were faithfully used. Therefore it has a consistent style and became the model for French cathedrals. Thus it was dominant in spreading the Gothic style all over France and also had influence on similar cathedrals in Britain.

Today most of church is original, including the glass in the rose window on the west front. And what has been renovated has been done in the original style. The church itself and the square in front of it have for eight centuries been the focal point of Paris and France.

We leave the church and enter the square in front of it, Place de Parvis.

Ile de la Cité

The center of Paris and of France. All distances in France are measured from Place de Parvis. Here the city was founded 200-250 B.C. by the Parisii, a Celtic tribe of fishermen and sailors. For a long time, during the four first centuries A.D. it was a stronghold of the Romans who built their barracks on the Left bank.

In 508 it became the capital of Klodwig, king of the Franks, and has since then been the capital of France. In the Middle Ages the city itself spread to the mainland banks. Later Charles V moved court over to the Louvre palace. Left behind was the parliament and later the city court.

It is fitting that a museum of the prehistory of the city has been set up under the square after extensive excavations had been made there. In the museum we can see the past in its original place. The remains are from Celtic and Roman times and some from the Middle Ages. This is a delightful museum, open 10-12 and 14:30-18:30, closed Monday.

We cross the square and turn right into Place Louis-Lépine.

Place Louis-Lépine

Place Louis-Lépine, 75001. (E5).

The venue of the main flower market of central Paris, held in Place Louis-Lépine and Quai de la Corse, a stone’s throw from Notre-Dame. On Sunday this market changes into a pet bird market, popular both with local people and travelers.

We can inspect the flowers, or the birds, if we happen on a Sunday. From the square we can descend through one of the famous Art Nouveau gates of wrought iron to the Paris metro.

We take a look at the metro entrance.

Metro Art Nouveau

Many entrances to metro stations are from the lively years around 1900, the Belle Époque, when Art Noveau swept through Europe from Paris. Hector Guimard designed the entrances which are built of wrought iron. One of them is here on the square.

We go past the flower market. Behind massive railings of wrought iron we see the former parliament and present palace of justice.

Palais de Justice

(E5).

The front of the palace dates from the years after the fire of 1776, one of the many attacking the palace. The left wing and the back, facing Place Dauphine, also date from this time. The oldest part, Conciergerie, the remains of the ancient royal palace, is on the right hand side, dating from the beginning of the 14th C.

Here the Merovingian kings lived in the 6th to 9th C. and Capetian kings in the 11th to 13th C. After that the French parliament was housed here up to the Revolution of 1789, when the palace became a prison and a court.

We can follow barristers, defendants, judges, journalists and inquisitive people up the great steps and take in the goings on in the long corridors and in the courtrooms themselves. Those with scant interest can make do with inspecting the Marchande gallery behind the front door. Others can turn right into Salle des Pas Perdus, where the commotion is greatest.

When we return down the front steps we turn to the right into the main courtyard of the palace. There we see the oldest part of the palace complex, Sainte-Chapelle.

Sainte-Chapelle

Hours: Open 10-12 and 13:30-17, -18 in summer. (E5).

Built in 1248, singularly dazzling, probably the most beautiful Gothic church in existence. It is completely in the original state of the late Gothic style. The enormous windows of stained glass are the oldest windows in Paris and the most splendid windows from the 13th C.

We enter at the west front and first arrive at the lower church, originally the church of the royal household. From there we take the stairs to the upper church, which was the church of the king himself.

Sainte-Chapelle interior

The upper church is one big room between windows. The walls between the windows are very narrow and roof rests on slender pilasters. The windows of 15 meters in height let in a mysterious light. This is the most magic place in Paris.

The church seems fragile but has in spite of that stood proud and without fissures for seven centuries and a half. It is strange that this jewel is hidden in a courtyard.

If we want to scrutinize the windows we need a lot of time. The pictures in them show 1134 scenes from the Bible.

We exit by the same way, find the street and turn right and then again right along the river bank, Quai des Orfèvres, along the main police station, Police Judiciare. Then we again turn right into Rue de Harley and from there to the left up to Place Dauphine.

Place Dauphine

(E4).

This restful square, which fans of inspector Maigret should remember, was planned in 1607 by Henri IV. It was mercifully spared when city planner Haussmann rebuilt the island. Some of the houses, for example no. 14, still have the original facade. Here are the wine bars Bar du Caveau and Henri IV, where we can rest our tired limbs.

After our rest we leave the square by the narrow end of its triangle and arrive at Pont Neuf.

Pont Neuf

(E4).

The oldest bridge in Paris in spite of its name, built in 1578-1604, during the reigns of Henri III and Henri IV. It spans 275 meters, has heavy pillars and twelve Romanesque arches, decorated with grim faces of stone.

The former bridges in this places had houses on, as can be seen from paintings.

We go to the square between the wings of the bridge, Square du Vert Galant.

Square du Vert Galant

(E4).

The small park on the western tip of the island is named after Henri IV. There are groves and benches for relaxation. Also here is the pier of one of the shippers who offer tourists a one-hour trip on the Seine. We can accept the offer and have a pleasant voyage with splendid views from the river.

Otherwise we climb back the steps and enjoy the view from the statue of the Vert Galant.

Vert Galant

(E4).

The equestrian statue of Henri IV is called The Vert Galant, which means the Womanizer in Green Clothes. He was a very popular king who did much to calm the religious wars that had dominated France in the years up to his access to power.

Subsequently we walk along Quai de l’Horloge past the northern side of the former royal palace, the oldest part of it, commonly called the Conciergerie.

Conciergerie

(E4).

On this side of the palace there are four 14th C. towers. The central towers originally guarded the entrance to the palace. The square tower farthest to the east has housed the official clock of Paris for more than six centuries. The entrance is between that tower and the central towers.

We enter the palace.

Salle des Gens d’Armes

(E4).

Inside there are three vast Gothic halls from the 14th C. The biggest is Salle des Gens d’Armes of 1800 square meters, the ground floor under the palace.

After the Revolution in 1789 these halls were converted into a prison. 2600 people were brought in 1793-1794 and from here to the guillotine. The massacre did not end until the head of Robespierre himself was cut off in this manner.

This is the end of this walk.

Quais

Most of the great cities in the world do not succeed in making their rivers a central part of city life. Vienna hides the Donau somewhere in the suburbs and so does Berlin with the Spree. The banks of the Thames in London, Tevere in Rome and Arno in Florence are not rendez-vous points for people.

Paris, on the other hand, succeeds in making the banks of the Seine an integral part of city life where people go for a walk, relax in cafés and pursue cultural attractions. Powerful trees give a welcome shade on sunny days and mellow the surroundings. The boxes of antique books appeal to people. Restaurants and cafés jostle for space on the mainland quais.

We can start our circular walk on the river banks at any point. This walk starts at the Pont Neuf metro station at the bridge of the same name. We take in the voluminous Conciergerie and Palais de Justice on the other side of the river. We visited those buildings in our 1st walk. But it is from here that the palace towers look their best. We soon arrive at Place du Châtelet.

Tour Saint-Jacques

(F4).

v
We see to our left the imposing tower of Saint-Jacques from 1523, the only remains of a late Gothic 16th C. church, which was destroyed in the aftermath of the Revolution. A statue of Blaise Pascal is in front of the tower.

Well known theaters are on both sides of the square.

We continue along the bank and arrive at the town hall of Paris, Hôtel de Ville.

Hotel de Ville

Hours: Open 8:45-18.30, Saturday 9-18, closed Sunday. (F4).

A town hall has been on this spot since the 14th C. The present palace is from the latter half of the 19th C., an imitation of an earlier Renaissance palace which was burned down in the 1871 revolt. The palace is full of art.

We continue and soon see the Saint-Gervais church on our left.

Saint-Gervais

(F5).

Built 1494-1657 in late Gothic style. Saint-Gervais-Saint-Protais is the full name of the church, named after two Roman martyrs. Is has the oldest Classical facade in the city. The famous organ of the church is used for religious recitals.

From the bank there is a nice little footpath behind the church for a detour to have a quick cup in quaint Ébouillante. Then we return to the bank which here is named Quai de l’Hôtel-de-Ville. We now have Ile Saint-Louis on our right. When we are midway opposite it, we cross the river on Pont Marie, Rue des Deux Ponts, and Pont de la Tournelle to arrive at the Left bank.

Pont de la Tournelle

(F5).

This bridge is a famous Seine viewpoint. In the Middle Ages a chain curtain was stretched here between two castles on opposite banks to prevent attacks on the city. A bridge was first built here in 1370.

On the bridge there is a monument in honor of Sainte Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris, the girl who protected the town against the fury of Attila the Hun in 451.

The ancient and famous restaurant Tour d’Argent is opposite the bridge on the mainland side, tempting travelers with a stunning view and a pressed duck for dinner.

From there our path is downriver along the Left bank. Notre-Dame dominates the view and makes us stop every now and then. We arrive at Square Réne-Viviani to our left.

Square Réne-Viviani

(E5).

The square is opposite the west end of Notre-Dame. We enter the garden in the square. From there we have one of the best views to Notre-Dame. The garden also has a tree said to be the oldest in the city. Behind the garden we see Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre from 1165-1220, described in walk no. 9.

Next we continue along Quai Saint-Michel to Place Saint-Michel.

Place Saint-Michel

(E5).

The formal entrance to the Left bank. It was the center of the revolutionary Paris Commune in 1871 and again the center of the student uprisings in 1968.

From the square the famous café-boulevard Saint-Michel runs southwards, crossing the other famous boulevard of the Left bank, Saint-Germain. Boulevard Saint-Michel is lined with restaurants and bookstores

We resume our walk along the quais. Next comes Quai des Grands-Augustins.

Quai des Grands Augustins

Quai des Grands Augustins. (E5).

Antique booksellers are with their cases in many places along the river banks. They are most numerous on the oldest bank, Quai des Grands-Augustins, running between Pont Neuf and Pont Saint-Michel, and on Quai de Conti, running between Pont Neuf and pedestrian Pont des Arts.

The books are generally worthless, but in between some interesting magazines can be found. Business is mainly in quickly done drawings and paintings, especially made for tourists. We allow time to study the cases of books on Quai des Grands-Augustins and Quai de Conti.

Opposite the pedestrian Pont des Arts we come to Institut de France.

Institut de France

(E4).

The palace was originally built by Le Vau in French 17th C. style, financed by a bequest from the will of cardinal Mazarin. It has for a long time been the home of the influential Académie de France and a few other semi-official clubs of culture.

We walk to the middle of the pedestrian Pont des Arts.

Pont des Arts

(E4).

From the middle of the bridge there is a delightful view to all directions, upriver, downriver, north to the Louvre and south to the palace of Institut de France.

When we reach the Right bank we save the Louvre for a later walk no. 6 and turn right a short distance to Place de l’École where we started this walk. We should repeat this walk some evening when the banks and monuments of history are floodlit. No city is more floodlit than Paris. A boat trip would though be the best way of enjoying that spectacle.

Marais

A little known part of the city center. The Marais or The Marshes were initially swamps and marshes which the order of the Templars had drained in the 12th and 13th C. Later they became the quarter of Christian societies and monasteries, as can be seen today from some street names. In the 16th C. the nobility began to build mansions here, the so-called hôtels.

The district became fashionable at the beginning of the 17th C. when the palaces around Place des Vosges were built. In those years the French Mannerist style of city mansions was developed here. In the 18th C. the aristocracy moved to the west and Marais slowly dilapidated.

André Malraux, Charles de Gaulle’s minister of culture, was a restoration enthusiast. He had many buildings cleaned and renovated. One of his most important deeds were the Malraux-laws of 1962. In the wake of them 126 hectares of the Marais have been restored to their original splendor. Since then the Marais have been on the upswing and well-off people have moved in.

The main attraction of this walk is the thrilling Pompidou museum in Palais Beaubourg. But first we are making our acquaintance with the Marais. We start our walk at the Pont Marie metro station. From there we walk a few meters along the bank and turn to the left into the first street. There we see the back side of Hôtel de Sens. We pass it to see it from its front side.

Hotel de Sens

(F5).

One of the most important houses of architectural history in Paris, one of two medieval palaces that have been preserved. It was built 1474-1507 for the archbishop of Sens. Its Gothic castle style is obvious in rounded corner-towers, in a pointed arch over the entrance and in tower spires. Access to the palace garden is through the main entrance.

We leave the place in front of the palace by Rue de l’Ave Marie and then turn left on Rue des Jardins Saint-Paul. There we see the remains of Enceinte behind a small soccer field.

Enceinte

(F5).

These are the remains of the city wall that king Philippe Auguste built in 1180-1220. He was one of the greatest kings of the Capetian line which reigned in the 11th to the 13th C. These were times of progress in Paris. Notre-Dame, Sainte-Chapelle, the Louvre and the city wall were built and Sorbonne and other university colleges were founded.

This was the first wall built around the city after it had spread to the banks around the islands. The Louvre started as a river castle, built as a part of this wall. If this wall is counted as wall no. 2 in the history of the city, next after the island wall, the walls in the end attained the number of six, in line with the gradual increase of the city size.

We look at the church in front of us.

Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis

(F5).

The second oldest Paris church in the Jesuit Counter-Reformation style, built in 1627-1641. From here we can see the dome, which was typical of this style in church architecture in the 17th C. The style stood midway between the Mannerist and Baroque styles of those times. The strict design of the church is clear from this direction.

We pass the church and come to the main street, Rue Saint-Antoine. There we turn right and walk a bit until we come to Rue de Birague at our left. We turn into it and go straight to Place des Vosges.

Place des Vosges

(G5).

The oldest and one of the most charming squares of Paris, laid out in 1605-1612 at the instigation of Henri IV. With him the house of Bourbons took over from the Valoisians. The Bourbons reigned in the 17th and 18th C. up to the great Revolution of 1789. The big garden in the square was once a favorite dueling ground but now it is popular with nannies and soccer boys.

The houses around Place des Vosges are in a late version of Renaissance, now usually called the Mannerist style. Out of this style the typical French Château style evolved here. The houses are built of red bricks and yellow, hewn stones. They are all in consistent units. An arcade gives a shaded promenade around the spacious square.

Most of the noble houses still have original facades after four centuries, including their high roofs. We entered the square beneath the King’s palace, Pavilion du Roi. Directly opposite it, at the other end, is the Queen’s palace, Pavilion de la Reine. In the near corner to the right is a house where the author Victor Hugo lived for many years.

We leave the square at its northwest corner and walk Rue des Francs-Bourgeois to Hôtel Carnavalet at our right.

Hotel Carnavalet

Hours: Open 10-17:30, closed Monday and Tuesday. (G4).

Built in 1644 when the Mannerist style was developing into the French Château style. It was given its appearance by the well known architect Mansart. The original part of the mansion was built around a courtyard which is behind the main entrance. Later other wings were added so that the palace became a square and a crucifix around four courtyards.

The palace is now a museum of the history of Paris with exquisite antique furniture.

We retrace our steps to Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, go past the museum and then immediately turn left along Rue Pavée and at once to the right along Rue des Rosiers.

Rue des Rosiers

(F4).

The main Jewish street of Paris. Some synagogues and Middle Eastern shops and Hebrew book shops are in the street and also in the side street to the left, Rue des Ecouffes.

We continue to the end of Rue des Rosiers and turn a few steps to the right where there is a tiny garden behind Notre-Dame-des-Blancs-Manteaux. We cross the garden past the church and turn left into Rue des Francs-Bourgeois to the National Archives in Palais Soubise and Hôtel de Rohan.

Palais Soubise

Hours: Open 14-17, closed Tuesday. (F4).

Archives Nationales are housed in many adjoining buildings. The best known are Hôtel de Rohan, facing Rue Vielle du Temple, and Palais Soubise, facing us. That palace was built in 1705 in the style of Louis XV. It has a horseshoe shaped garden in front.

The museum houses 280 kilometers of shelves carrying six billions of state documents. Historic exhibitions are also held in Palais Soubise.

From the museum we go to the next corner and there turn left Rue des Archives until we arrive at Rue Sainte-Croix-Bretonnerie, where we turn right. Just before we come to Palais Beaubourg we turn right into a crooked alley, Rue Pierre au Lard.

Rue Pierre au Lard

(F4).

The ancient and dilapidated walls of the alley contrast with the avant-garde landmark of Palais Beaubourg in front of us.

We retrace our steps out of the alley, turn right and continue to Place Pompidou.

Place Pompidou

(F4).

The square in front of Palais Beaubourg is a a lively place. Musical performers and circus artists show their talents for big and small crowds. After the performances the artists walk around with their hats.

Last time that we walked through on a sunny morning a fire swallower and a music band of eight took care of the happenings. This is a good diversion for those who want to spend the day in the culture of the amazingly good museum of Beaubourg.

We turn our attention to Palais Beaubourg.

Palais Beaubourg

(F4).

This was once the most controversial building in the world and has for a long time been one of the most popular museums in the world, opened in 1977.

The palace itself has the appearance of a colorful oil refinery, all covered with ducts, big and small. Each color represents a purpose, yellow for electricity, red for people and goods, green for water and blue for air-conditioning. The ducts are in a steel frame which is not covered on the outside. The palace was designed by Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano.

We enter Centre Pompidou.

Centre Pompidou

Hours: Open 12-22, closed Tuesday. (F4).

Inside there are a few museums. The most famous is the museum of modern art, one of the biggest museums of 20th C. art, a revelation for enthusiasts. The importance stems partly from French painters having been in the vanguard of modern art. This museum is on the 3rd and 4th floors. In a part of the 4th floor are shown the works of contemporary artists, partly avantgardists.

The museum covers mainly the history of 20th C isms, starting where impressionism left off. Exhibited are cubism and fauvism, abstract geometrism and expressionism, dada and surrealism, pop and conceptualism, etc. This history is clearly set forth in the museum and is in itself an excuse enough for a Paris visit.

Beaubourg also houses a branch of the famous film museum in Palais Chaillot, having a continuous run of vintage films. Also there are concerts, lectures and plays. The action is always on in the museum and it has proved to be one of the most successful museums of art in the world, a real pan-artistic museum. About 10 million people visit each year. Not to be forgotten is the view.

If we can break away, we go out and continue westwards along Rue Aubry Boucher and Rue Berger to the new shopping center Forum des Halles.

Forum des Halles

(E4).

The Forum has been built on four floors, mainly underground, replacing the former famous food market for wholesalers, Halles, which has been transferred out to the Rungis at the Orly airport. This has been a marketplace since 1100. Forum now houses a lot of shops, including outlets of fashion houses, and cafés, in a rectangle around a sunken, open square.

On the other side of Forum des Halles is a big building site. It is planned to have there both under ground and above ground similar futuristic buildings in the style of Forum. We also see the same style in new apartment buildings around. This style could be called a waterfallism of glass and steel.

Forum itself is a lively place. Its central square attracts many people. Still the French preserve the old when they build into the future. Where Rue Berger meets Forum, the area around the Innocents fountain has been conserved.

Behind the steel and glass we glimpse Saint-Eustache, which is our next stop on this walk.

Saint-Eustache

(E4).

The second biggest church of Paris and also one of the finest, built in 1532-1640 in Gothic style with Renaissance decorations. The west front was built much later, in 17th C. style, the south tower still missing. The noble transept facade, which we see from Forum, is Renaissance, extensively decorated and flanked by two slender staircase towers.

The interior is solemnly and extensively decorated among Gothic columns and buttresses. The gems are the organ and the acoustics. Many a concert has been held here, including first performances of music by Liszt and Berlioz. Te Deum was introduced here.

Almost beside the church, on the other side of the building site, there is the circular Bourse de Commerce.

Bourse du Commerce

(E4).

The circular building with a dome is the commodities exchange with a lively trading in flour, sugar, wine, coffee and cocoa.

Here we end this walk. The Forum des Halles metro station is nearby.

Passages

This time we are going to look at rather unknown parts of central Paris.

On the one hand we shall visit some of the old glass-covered passages and arcades of shopping, which are more typical of Paris than of other cities, especially of the 1st and 2nd districts. Early in the last century about 140 such passages existed in the city, of whom about 30 are still in use today.

On the other hand we are to visit the almost secret garden of Palais Royal, which is only a stone’s throw from the Louvre.

We start at the Arts et Métiers metro station. First we walk a short distance to the east along Rue Réaumur and turn right into Rue Volta. There on the right hand side we look at house no. 3.

Rue Volta 3

(F3).

This half-timbered house of four storeys was until recently thought to be the oldest dwelling-house in Paris, built in the 13th or 14th C. In fact it is a 17th C. imitation. In spite of that it is typical of homes from the Medieval times.

We turn again to the right and walk Rue au Maire to Saint-Nicolas-des-Champs.

Saint-Nicolas-des-Champs

(F3).

A Romanesque church built in the 12th C. in honor of the saint who is now better known as Santa Claus. It is mainly Gothic, with Renaissance parts, the remains of a disappeared Benedictine monastery.

Almost alongside it is Saint-Martin-des-Champs, a Romanesque church from 1130, also a part of the same monastery complex. The back of the chancel is the only remains of the original style.

We walk past the west fronts of the two churches and turn left to cross Square Émile Chautemps to enter the first passage, Passage du Ponceau. From the other end of the passage we turn a few steps to the left into the prostitution street Rue Saint-Denis and then turn right into Passage du Caire.

Passage de Caire

Rue Saint-Denis. (F3).

This long shopping passage from 1800 has become dilapidated but still keeps some of its initial charm. In a small widening near the far end of it rascals once congregated and caroused at nights, but during daytime they worked the city feigning blindness and other disabilities. Here the decorations are Egyptian.

After leaving the passage at the other end we take Rue du Nil or Rue d’Aboukir to Rue Réaumur where we turn right and walk westwards. Here live many Arabs who have probably been attracted to the street names in this area which have been here since Napoleon came from his Egyptian campaign. After 400 meters we arrive at the Bourse.

Bourse

Hours: Open 10:45-13:45 Monday-Friday. (E3).

The Neoclassic stock exchange was built 1801-1826 with Corinthian columns on all sides. From a balcony we can perceive the lively business on the exchange floor. It sometimes resembles a riot rather than bourgeois law and order.

We continue north along Rue Notre-Dame-des-Victories and turn left into the glass-covered Galerie Montmartre.

Passage des Panoramas

Rue Notre-Dame-des-Victories. (E3).

This is a labyrinth of passages, known from the most important of them, which runs southward from Boulevard Montmartre to Rue Saint-Marc. These glass-roofed passages were opened in 1799 and preserve their time-honored dignity.

These passages or galleries were the forerunners of modern malls. People can shop there without the noise and danger and pollution from car traffic.

After inspecting the galleries we return to the Bourse and at its southern end turn to the right into Rue du Quatre Septembre. When we reach Rue de Choiseul, we turn left, walk to the end of that street and continue into one more of the long passages, Passage Choiseul.

Passage Choiseul

Rue de Choiseul. (E3).

This glass-covered shopping passage has some elegant shops and lots of customers.

At the other end we arrive into Rue des Petits Champs where we turn left and go past Biblioteque Nationale on our left. Having passed it we have a look into the beautiful Galerie Vivienne on our left before we cross Rue des Petits Champs, go a few meters along Rue Vivienne, cross Rue Beaujolais and continue through a colonnade into the peaceful Jardin du Palais Royal.

Jardin du Palais Royal

(E3).

All around Jardin du Palais Royal the traffic noise abounds, particularly at the southwest, in Place André-Malraux. But here in the garden we hear no din from the outside world. Any many are unaware of this peaceful garden as it is only entered through a few modest passages.

From the colonnade we can enter Grand Véfour, one of the most famous and most bewitching restaurants in the world, if we have succeeded in booking a table. If we cannot afford to lunch there we only need a few steps to go to Rue Richelieu, where we find the unbelievably cheap restaurant Incroyable.

We look at the building at the southern end of the garden, Palais Royal.

Palais Royal

(E4).

Built in 1632 for cardinal Richelieu. Shortly after his death the palace became the royal residence for a while. It has retained its name since then. It now houses the council of State. The palace is best known from Louis-Philippe d’Orléans who came into possession of it in 1780 and had the three other wings built around the garden.

In those years this was the center of high living in Paris. Elegant shops lined the ground floor behind the arcades. The next floors housed the aristocracy and the rich. General Blücher is said to have lost here a million francs and a half in a gambling den when he arrived from Waterloo.

The high life has disappeared. At noon some clerks come here to lunch out of their bags. A few dogs are walked around. Every now and then a child is seen. A few stroll around the arcades and peep into the windows of specialty shops in medals, coins, books or pipes. The place is good for rest after shopping or running traffic or after becoming tired of the nearby Louvre.

If we leave at the southwestern corner we come out at Place André Malraux, where Comédie Française rises on the garden side of the square.

Comédie Française

2 Rue de Richelieu, 75001. Phone: 296 1020. (E4).

It has been operated as a national theater at this location since just before the turn of the century. But its ensemble is much older, from 1680.

It now stresses traditional plays of authors like Molière. When we were last time in Paris, two out of four plays in the repertory were by Molière, one by de Becque and one by Tschekov.

From the square there is an excellent view up Rue de l’Opéra.

We can at once start on walk no. 5, as it starts right here. Or we can go to the Louvre which is here behind the Louvre hotel.

Fashion

The fashion shops are one of the main attributes of the city. They are concentrated in the area on both sides of Rue de Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Most of the best known fashion houses in the world have their main outlets in this area.

On our way through this district we will have a look at the Opéra, the Madeleine and Place Vendôme.

We start our walk at Place André Malraux where we finished the last walk. If we arrive by the metro the station is Palais Royal.

Avenue de l’Opéra

(D3).

We have a gorgeous view from the square and its fountains up Avenue de l’Opéra. This view we can continue to enjoy all the way to the Opéra. On our way we pass banks, expensive shops and sidewalk cafés.

Haussmann, the city planner of Napoleon III, had many slums razed in the 3rd quarter of the 19th C. to make place for splendid boulevards across the city center.

This is one of the parade streets made at that time. It was finished in 1878. It was considered so important that an hill was removed to level the road.

When we come to Place de l’Opéra we cross another of Haussmann’s boulevards, Boulevard des Capucines, go past the famous Café de la Paix to reach the Opéra, which we have had in view the whole way.

Opéra de Paris Garnier

Place de l’Opéra, 75009. (D3).

The palace was built in 1862-1875 by the architect Charles Garnier after he won the first price in a competition sponsored by Napoleon III. The Opéra has always been criticized as an architectural mixture of styles. Opponents profess to have found in it aspects of all styles in history. Nevertheless it is accepted that Garnier was better at such mixtures than most others.

The best-known part of this impractical building is the staircase in the lobby, especially designed to make the ornately dressed guests look splendid on them. They are in itself worth a visit. Also famous is the stage which can take 450 artists at the same time. And the ceiling painted by the 20th C. Russian painter Marc Chagall, contrasting sharply with everything else.

The center of opera and ballet has until recently been here. Now the opera has moved to a new building at Place de la Bastille, also considered horrible by critics.

From Place de l’Opéra we turn back over Boulevard des Capucines and turn right into Rue de la Paix.

Rue de la Paix

(D3).

Famous for its jewelers. Many will recall names such as Christofle at no. 24, Cartier at no. 13, Mellers at no. 9, Poiray at no. 8, Jean Dinh Van at no. 7,; and at the square in front of us, Place Vendôme, Verney at no. 8, Chaumet at no. 12, Mauboussin at no. 20, Cleef et Arpels at no. 22 and Boucheron at no. 26.

We turn our attention to Place Vendôme.

Place Vendôme

(D3).

All the way to Place Vendôme we recognized Napoleon’s column of victory, standing in its middle, made of bronze from 1200 captured cannons in the battle of Austerlitz in 1805. There is a statue of Napoleon himself on the top.

The square itself and the surrounding buildings are older, from 1702-1720. They were all designed by the architect Hardouin-Mansart in the years after 1685. He also designed Dome des Invalides and was responsible for the final appearance of Versailles. His Place Vendôme is the apex of 17th C. architecture in France.

On the ground floor arcades cover the sidewalks. Above there are pilasters reaching up two storeys. In the roofs there is a continuous row of dormer windows. The houses in the corners and the in middle of the wings have pediments. The best know building is the Ritz hotel.

We continue along the wide and arcaded Rue Castiglione and turn right into the fashion street Rue Saint-Honoré, which we continue all the way to Rue Royale, where we see the Madeleine on our right. We turn that way and approach the church.

Madeleine

(D3).

Sainte-Marie-Madeleine rises majestically as a Greek temple above crossroads where Haussmann’s boulevards congregate on the church from all directions.

Building started in 1764 and was not finished until 1842. It was initially meant to become a church, but in the meantime there were plans to convert it into an army temple or a railway station. It was in the end built as a church. It was designed by architect Vigneron at a time when the Neoclassic style was emerging and examples were sought in ancient Greece.

There is an excellent view from the church steps along the length of Rue Royale, over Place de la Concorde towards Palais Bourbon on the other side of the Seine. One of the flower markets of the city nestles under the eastern side of the church. Famous gourmet shops are around the square, Fauchon and Hédirard. Also Senderens’ culinary temple, Lucas-Carton.

We retrace our steps along Rue Royale, past an alley leading from the street to Cité Berryer with Caves Madeleine, the wine shop of Steven Spurrier. We continue on Rue Royale and turn right into Faubourg Saint-Honoré.

Faubourg Saint-Honoré

(C3).

The part of Faubourg Saint-Honoré from Rue Royale to Avenue Matignon is a continuous spectacle of world-famous fashion houses. We see here Courreges, Féraud, Givenchy, Hermes, Jourdan, Lancôme, Lanvin, Lapidus, Laroche, Saint-Laurent, Scherrer, Torrente and Ungaro.

Fashionable ladies sail between destinations and we are sorry that the pavements are to narrow for their show to develop to the fullest.

500 meters along the street we arrive on the left side at the main entrance to Palais Élysée.

Palais Elysée

(C3).

The President of the Republic of France lives in this well guarded palace and receives guests of honor. The palace was built in 1718 and has since 1873 been the presidential palace. the presidents are said to envy the prime ministers who live in Hôtel Matignon on the Left bank.

We continue along Faubourg Saint-Honoré and are soon passing the Bristol hotel on our right. Soon after that we turn left into the wide Avenue Matignon. We cross Avenue Gabriel with its Élysées Matignon club and the stamp market. After crossing the enormous Champs-Élysées at the flowery Rond Point we continue directly into Avenue Montaigne.

Avenue Montaigne

(B3).

The main offices of some of the best known fashion houses line this street. They include Dior and Ricci in palatial buildings. Also the best hotel in town, Plaza-Athénée, on our right.

This walk ends at the river bank at Place de l’Alma at the Alma Marceau metro. We have gotten a glimpse of the fashionable Paris. In our next walk we will cross the same district, but by a different route.

Promenade

Few if any world cities have such an enormous and successful axis as Paris has in Avenue des Champs-Élysées, a broad and a straight line, not only reaching from Place de la Concorde to Arc de Triomphe, but all the way from the Louvre to the ultramodern suburb of Défense.

This is the main traffic artery in the center, both automotive and pedestrian. It is full of life from morning to night, as cinemas take over when shops close. On national days this axis is perfect for parades.

We start at Arc de Triomphe.

Arc de Triomphe

Hours: Open 10-17, -18 in summer. (B2).

The arch of victory is one of the main landmarks of Paris, along with Tour Eiffel and Notre-Dame. It is the biggest victory arch in the world, 50 meters in height and 45 meters wide. It was built for Napoleon 1806-1836 and offers a unique view over the city.

Its exterior is decorated with pictures and names in memory of French military victories. And under the arch there burns the flame on the grave of the unknown soldier.

We turn our attention to the surroundings, the Étoile.

Étoile

(B2).

The enormous plaza around the arch carries the name of Place Charles-de-Gaulle. It is always called Étoile, quite like the Pompidou museum being called Beaubourg and Charles-de-Gaulle airport called Roissy. The French seem not to accept that names of famous people should evict traditional place-names.

Étoile is one of city planner Haussmann’s main works, laid out in 1854. Twelve of his boulevards run as sunrays from this circular place. As most of them are busy traffic arteries the plaza itself is the main traffic congestion point in the whole city.

According to French traffic rules the cars entering a circular plaza have the right of way and not those which are already there. Therefore it is an art in itself to choose a right lane to get out again and to the right boulevard. Étoile is the right place for us to admire the wits of driving Frenchmen. Plans have been around for a while to change the rule for this place.

We now walk along Champs-Élysées downhill from Étoile in the direction of Place de la Concorde.

Champs-Élysées

(B3).

On the stretch from Étoile to Rond Point airlines and car makers line the avenue, also cinemas and other places of entertainment. Many shopping arcades lead off into labyrinths of shops, cinemas and restaurants. On this stretch there are more tourists than in any other place in Paris. Many sit in sidewalk cafés and observe the pedestrian traffic.

We arrive at Rond Point.

Rond Point

(C3).

A big circle of 140 meters in diameter, where Champs-Élysées meets the fashion streets Avenue Montaigne and Avenue Matignon. The appearance of Champs-Élysées also changes. From Rond Point to Place de la Concorde it is lined with mighty trees and gardens on both sides, including the Palais Élysée garden.

We continue along the Champs-Élysées. To our right we see the Grand Palais.

Grand Palais

(C3).

Grand Palais and Petit Palais were built to house the World Fair of 1900. Their structure is of steel and glass, but the exteriors are in the heaviest of the Historical style of architecture, popular at the end of the last century. The fronts of Grand Palais are for example completely lined with Ionic columns.

The part of Grand Palais facing west, to Avenue Franklin D. Roosevelt, houses the French museum of inventions, Palais de la Découverte. It is an ode to French achievements in technology and science, open 10-18, closed Monday.

The other part, facing east, to Avenue Winston Churchill, is the venue of yearly fairs, such as automobile fairs, and also of specialized exhibitions of art, open 10-18, closed Tuesday.

Opposite Grand Palais there is the Petit Palais.

Petit Palais

Hours: Open 10-17:30, closed Monday. (C3).

It houses one of the biggest museums of art in the city. It covers most epochs in history, ancient and recent. There are also monumental exhibitions, some of them so difficult to assemble that it will not be tried again.

From Avenue Winston Churchill we can see directly over Pont Alexander III all the way to Invalides. The bridge was built in 1900 in the ornamental style of that period.

Champs-Élysées ends as an avenue at Place de la Concorde.

Place de la Concorde

(C3).

A giant sea of asphalt with 84000 square meters of automotive traffic, laid out in 1755-1775. In its northeastern corner Louis XVI was guillotined. 1343 other victims of the Revolution were beheaded at the present entrance to the Tuileries garden.

The obelisk in the middle of the square is a gift from the viceroy of Egypt. It is 3300 years old and comes from Luxor in the Nile valley. It was reerected here in 1836, weighs 220 tons and has an height of 23 meters, all of one single stone, three meters higher than Cleopatra’s needle on the Thames banks in London.

From the island in the middle of the square there are views to all directions. To the west along the axis of Champs-Élysées to Arc de Triomphe. To the south over Pont de la Concorde to French parliament in Palais Bourbon. To the north along Rue Royale to the Madeleine, with the Crillon hotel on the left side at the square. To the east through Tuileries to Palais du Louvre.

Before we enter Tuileries we should take note of two palaces which are on both sides of the garden at the end facing Place de la Concorde. They are Jeu de Paume to the north and left and Orangerie to the south and right.

Jeu de Paume

Hours: Open 9:45-17:15. (D3).

The French museum of Impressionism, a style of painting that appeared in France about 1874 and developed into an artistic revolution that spread around the world. The French had until then been in the forefront of painting, but at that time took the absolute leadership.

This is the best Impressionist museum in the world, hung with paintings by Monet and Manet, Cézanne and Degas, Renoir and others, such as the later Gauguin and Rousseau, Seurat and Signac, van Gogh and Toulouse-Lautrec.

Jeu de Paume is on the divide of styles and times. Older art is in the Louvre and newer art in Beaubourg.

We turn our attention to the museum opposite, the Orangerie.

Orangerie

(D4).

The mirror image of Jeu de Paume on the other side of the Tuileries garden. It houses amongst other works of art a series of murals by Monet and works by Cézanne and Renoir. It also has temporary exhibitions.

We turn into the Jardin des Tuileries.

Tuileries

(D4).

A typical formal French garden, in opposition to the English style which is free and relaxed. On both sides of Tuileries there are terraces with views, over the Seine from the southern one. The path along the middle of the garden is straight in line with Champs-‘Elysées, only broken by two ponds.

This was once a dumping ground which the renowned landscape architect Le Nôtre designed into a park in 1664, initially as the king’s private park.

A street divides the Tuileries from the garden of the Louvre. Formerly the Tuileries palace was here, built by Catherine dei Medici in the years after 1563. It burnt down in the Communards revolt in 1871.

We cross that street, go into the Louvre garden and come to the Arc de Triomphe de Carrousel.

Arc de Triomphe de Carrousel

(D4).

This small arch of victory was built 1806-1809 in memory of the victories of Napoleon. Formerly it was decorated with four horses of bronze which Napoleon stole from the San Marco in Venice, but the Italians have recovered them.

Once the arch was the entrance to the disappeared Tuileries palace. The garden is full of sculptures by Maillol.

In the western end of the northern wing of Palais de Louvre an independent museum of applied art is located, Musée des Arts Décoratifs, open 14-17, closed Tuesday.

We enter the inner courtyard of the Louvre where a pyramid of glass dominates the scene.

Pyramide

(E4).

The glass pyramid by Chinese architect Pei is the new entrance to the Louvre, which has been enlarged underground and into the northern wing of the Palais de Louvre. Being of glass the pyramid allows us to see the surrounding palace and brings light into the museum entrance below.

This building was very controversial as many avant-garde buildings have been in Paris, but the commotion has settled down. Most people seem to like it, just as they like the Beaubourg, which also was controversial in the beginning. The French have a knack for adventure in modern architecture.

Before we enter the Louvre museum we have a look at the Palais de Louvre.

Palais de Louvre

(E4).

The building history of the Louvre is long and complicated. In the beginning there was Philippe Auguste’s castle from around 1200. In the latter half of the 14th C. the castle was temporarily the residence and royal palace of Charles V. The oldest existing part was built in the 16th C., the southwestern corner of the part which surrounds Cour Carrée.

In the reign of Henri IV the southwestern wing, Flore, was erected. In the reigns of Louis XIII and XIV the square around Cour Carrée was completed. Louis XIV lived for a while in Louvre while he waited to move to Versailles. In the reign of Napoleon the southern wing was finally completed and the northern wing in the reign of Napoleon III.

The enormous colonnade at the front of the palace, facing east, was designed by Perrault, Le Vau and Le Brun in the time of Louis XIV in the 17th C. French style. Behind it is Cour Carrée where we can on the left see the Renaissance style of the oldest part and to the right its later French evolution into the Mannerist style.

We enter the museum itself.

Museum de Louvre

(E4).

This is with the National Gallery in London one of the two greatest museums of art in the world. The second row is reserved for the Uffizi in Florence, Prado in Madrid and the Museum of Modern Art in Manhattan. It is estimated that there are now about 500,000 objects owned by the museum. It will take three months to inspect the exhibits by spending 30 seconds on each item.

Most French kings collected works of art, all the way back to Francis I who owned works by Titian, Rafaelo and Leonardo da Vinci, including the Mona Lisa. Formally the palace was converted into a museum in 1793, shortly after the great Revolution.

From the underground entrance corridors lead to different wings of the museum. Some of the most interesting works are on the ground and first floors of the southern Denon wing.

We go into the Denon wing.

Mona Lisa

If we go directly into Salle Daru and then turn left we should find Mona Lisa by Leonardo behind security glass. This southern wing has many exhibition halls. We can se works by the Italians Angelico, Mantegna, Tintoretto, Titian and Veronese; the French Rigaud, Delacroix, David and Géricault; the Benelux van Eyck, Breugel and Rembrandt; and the English Gainsborough and Constable.

We go down the stairs past the Hellenistic 3rd C. B.C. Goddess of Victory from Samothrace. On the left is the Caryatides hall. In its middle stands the famous sculpture from the 2nd C. B.C, Venus from Milo. In this western corner of the floor there are Greek and Roman antiques. Egyptian antiques are in the southern corner and Middle Eastern ones in the other half.

Among famous items in the Louvre is the Egyptian Scribe and the bust of Amenofis IV, the statue of King Gudea and the Laws of Hammurabi. The museum is divided into three sections of antiques, according to geographic areas, and sections of painting, sculpture and applied arts. It is wise to buy a special guide-book for the museum, but the position of works can be changed.

We leave the museum, have a look at its colonnaded eastern front and turn our attention to the church on the other side of Place de Louvre, Saint-Germain-l’Auxerrois.

Saint-Germain-l‘Auxerrois

(E4).

The church tower stands between the church and the city hall of the 1st district of Paris. The oldest parts of the church are from the 12th C. and the youngest from the 17th C. The front is in late Gothic flamboyant style from 1435.

This walk is over and here we have the Louvre metro station.

Esplanades

There are some esplanades or green spaces on the Left bank of central Paris in addition to Champs-Élysées and Jardin des Tuileries on the Right bank. There is the Jardin du Luxembourg, the Esplanade and Champs-de-Mars. The last two are the subject of this walk, including such landmarks as Palais Chaillot, Tour Eiffel and the Invalides.

We start at the Trocadero metro station, in front of Palais Chaillot.

Palais Chaillot

(A4).

The Neoclassic palace was built in 1936-1937 in a Hitler-Stalin version of the style. As it is French it is lighter and milder than other buildings of that megalomaniac period. From the terrace between the two identical parts we see over the garden of Trocadero and the Seine to Tour Eiffel, the fields of Champs-de-Mars and École Militaire. This is the most stunning view in Paris.

From the entrance to the northern half of Chaillot we walk down to one of the largest theaters in France, Théâtre National de Chaillot. The same entrance also leads to the French monument museum, open 9:45-12:30 and 14-17:15; and the film museum, Musée du Cinéma Henri Langlois, open 14:30-17:30.

From the entrance to the southern half we get to the maritime Musée de la Marine, open 10-18, closed Tuesday; and the ethnological Musée de l’Homme, open 9:45-17:15, also closed Tuesday. At the eastern end of the palace we enter Cinémathèque Française where old films are constantly shown to the public, as is done in Palais Beaubourg.

We walk down to the Trocadero gardens.

Jardins du Trocadero

(A4).

The gardens cover 10 hecatares, sloping down to the river Seine, centering on a pool with statues and fountains, which are illuminated in a spectacular way at night. An aquarium is in the left side of the garden, open 10-17:30, -18:30 in summer. The gardens were laid out in 1937.

We cross the river by the Iéna bridge and walk under the most famous Paris landmark, Tour Eiffel.

Tour Eiffel

(B4).

The engineer Eiffel built the featherweight Tour Eiffel as an emblem of the World Fair of 1889. At that time it was the highest construction in the world, 300 meters. Now it is 320.75 meters, including an aerial. It weighs only 7000 tons, or four kilograms per square centimeter, or the weight of a chair and a man.

The height can vary about 15 centimeters due to changes in temperature and the swing at the top can reach 12 centimeters in storms. The tower has three floors, the lowest one in the height of 57 meters, the second in the height of 115 meters and the highest in the height of 274 meters. Elevators run between storeys and we can also take to the stairs up to the second floor.

The two lower platforms are open 10:30-23. the top one is open 10-18 in summer, closed in winter. French intellectuals hated the tower when it was being built. It was to have been razed after the fair. By that time it had become necessary for telegraphic purposes. And now many consider Tour Eiffel to be one of the major and most beautiful works of art in the world.

After a lunch in the tower restaurant Jules Verne we walk through Champs-de-Mars.

Champs-de-Mars

(B5).

The formal French garden in very big an so formal that policemen blow whistles every time someone steps outside the paths. This was initially the training and parade ground of the military school. It has repeatedly been the location of world fairs. The present appearance dates from 1908-1928.

At the far end of the garden we reach École Militaire.

École Militaire

(B5).

Built in 1769-1772 with Neoclassic elements blending into the French style, as is evident from the Corinthian columns at the entrance. The school is best known for cadet Bonaparte who later became Napoleon.

We turn left along the front of École Militaire and then right around its corner into Avenue de Tourville, leading us to Église du Dôme des Invalides.

Église du Dôme

Hours: Open 10-17, -18 in summer. (C5).

The domed church is a perfect work of art by Hardouin-Mansart, designed in the Jesuit style of the 17th C. Napoleons lies in six coffins in the middle of the church which really is his mortuary. His brothers and some generals also have their tombs in the chapels of the church. The atmosphere is very solemn.

The architectural style has the dome as its most distinctive feature and was a mixture of the French Mannerism and the Catholic Baroque which the Jesuits were at that time trying to introduce in France. The same style is evident in the colonnades with Romanesque arches, Doric columns on the ground level and Corinthian ones above. The dome is of lead, covered with gold leaf.

In a house on the left side of the church tickets are sold for the church and the army museum behind. There is another church behind the altar of this church. It is Saint-Louis-des-Invalides. In fact the two churches share the same altar.

Along the side of the latter church we reach an entrance to the military museums in the Invalides complex.

Invalides

(C4).

The Musée de l’Armée and other military museums are in the former quarters of veterans centered on a courtyard on the north side of Église du Dôme. The Musée de l’Armée is one of the biggest military museums in the world. There are also special museums of military maps, of World War II, of the French resistance and a small museum with private belongings of Napoleon.

This was first a home for old and disabled veterans, built 1671-1676. At one time it housed 6000 veterans, but none are now left. It was also a weapons depot which was emptied out by revolutionaries in the morning of July 17th, 1789, when they carried away 28,000 rifles.

We leave by the northern entrance to the museums.

Esplanade des Invalides

(C4).

This is the real front of the Invalides complex. In front of us is the field, Esplanade des Invalides, reaching from Invalides to the Seine. We can observe the game of pétoncle, in which the locals try to throw their ball either as near to the mark as possible or at the more successful balls of the competitors.

We cross the Esplanade and the Quai d’Orsay and arrive at Pont Alexander III:

Pont Alexander III

(C4).

The most exuberant Seine bridge, built in 1896-1900 for the World Fair in 1900. It is a single-span steel bridge, heavily decorated with Art Noveau lamps and statues.

This is the end of walk no. 7. The Invalides metro station is nearby.

La Vie

The liveliest part of Paris is the area around the boulevards Saint-Germain and Saint-Michel on the Left bank. On our way we will also pass landmarks like the Panthéon, Palais du Luxembourg, Saint-Sulpice and Saint-Germain-des-Prés. This is our longest walk as there are many things to see.

We start at the lower end of Rue Mouffetard, in front of the 15th C. Saint-Médard. If we arrive by the metro, we depart at the Censier-Daubenton station and walk along Rue Monge for a few meters to the church. We walk up Rue Mouffetard.
v
Rue Mouffetard

Rue Mouffetard. Hours: Closed Monday. (F6).

The most charming shopping street in central Paris is this pedestrian street which meanders down Montagne Saint-Geneviève from Place Contrescarpe to Saint-Medard. The liveliest part is the downhill one near the church, especially in the morning. We note Flahec, a nice little seafood shop, at no. 135. From no. 104 and 101 pedestrian passages lead off the street.

The houses are old and village-like. Many shop-signs are from olden times. The street itself is narrow, filled with stalls and humanity. Everything is for sale in La Mouffe, as the local people call the street, but food is the most obvious thing.

We arrive at the top of the street to Place de la Contrescarpe.

Place de la Contrescarpe

(F6).

Resembling a small-town square, it was laid out in 1852 in a place that had been used for festivals for a long time. It is now livelier than ever, lined with restaurants and cafés that cater to university students.

From the place we walk west into Rue Blainville and then straight on through Rue de l’Estrapade until we reach Rue Clotilde, which we follow to the right. We almost at once to the back of the Panthéon on the summit of Montagne Sainte-Geneviève.

Panthéon

(E6).

Built as a church 1758-1789, designed by Soufflot in Neoclassic style. Its plan is like a Greek crucifix and it has a giant dome which can be seen from many places in the city and is thus similar to the dome of Saint Paul’s in the City of London.

Soufflot gave the church a light design with very high and slender columns. The building was later made heavier and uglier by bricking up the windows. It was done when the revolutionary government changed the Panthéon into a mortuary of great Frenchmen. Voltaire, Rousseau and Victor Hugo are interred there. The interior is now cold and forbidding.

From the front of the Panthéon we walk down Rue Soufflot, cross the famous street of sidewalk-cafés and book shops, Boulevard Saint-Michel, and enter the Jardin du Luxembourg.

Jardin du Luxembourg

(E5).

The most extensive green space on the Left bank, mainly laid out in a formal French style. The western and southern sides though are done in a relaxed English style. The center of the garden is an octagonal pond in front of the palace. Children often play there with their boats. The garden abounds with statues and sculptures.

We turn our attention to Palais du Luxembourg.

Palais Luxembourg

Hours: Open Sunday 9:30-11 and 14-16. (E5).

Built 1615-1625 for Queen Maria dei Medici in Florentine Renaissance style. It now houses the French senate. Its president lives in the small palace, Petit Luxembourg, which adjoins the bigger one to the west. Many works of art are in the palace, including paintings by Delacroix in the library.

We leave the garden at the northwestern corner, cross Rue Vaugirard and walk either Rue Séminaire or Rue Férou to Saint-Sulpice.

Saint-Sulpice

(D5).

Dublin restaurants

Ferðir

101 Talbot

100-102 Talbot Street. Phone: 874 5011. Price: £28 ($44) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A vegetarian restaurant near O’Connell Street. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Ante Room

20 Lower Baggot Street. Phone: 660 4716. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday lunch. Price: £53 ($83) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Some of the best seafood in town is served at this rather expensive cellar restaurant in the Georgian House hotel in the main street of music pubs. The cooking is simple and solid, resulting in tasteful food when the kitchen is not overwhelmed by the arrival of groups.

The furnishings are rough and the seating is tight on bare chairs of wood, when there are groups. On the other hand this is also a romantic place for candlelight dinners. It is several small rooms which camouflage its size. Service is knowledgeable.

• Crab clams in garlic butter.

• Mussels in the shell.

• Kings scallops cooked in white wine, with cream sauce and piped potatoes.

• Pan-fried tiger prawns in garlic, with leeks and pasta.

• Boned and oven baked Dover sole with lemon butter.

• Chocolate cake.

• Ice cream with caramel parfait.

Ayumi-Ya

132 Lower Baggot Street. Phone: 662 0233. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: £30 ($47) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A Japanese restaurant in a main street of central Dublin. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Bewley’s

78-79 Grafton Street. Phone: 677 6761. Fax: 677 4021. Price: £17 ($27) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The inexpensive café is directly on the pedestrian Grafton Street. It has for a long time been the favorite resting place of citizens on downtown shopping visits and the favorite place for visitors reading the Sunday newspapers. It is the mother location of several cafés of the same chain, a breakfast room, a café and a lunch restaurant in one.

There is a bakery in front. Behind it and above it are three self-service places and two with service. The best place for a café with scones or muffins is at the marble tables at the first floor windows to the street. The furnishings are most beautiful in the very popular ground floor restaurant behind the bakery, with large and stained windows above thick and red sofas.

• Coffee and tea of several types.

• Porridge.

• Scones and muffins.

• Eggs and bacon.

• Lunch salads.

Blazing Salads

Powerscourt Townhouse Centre. Phone: 671 9552. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: £15 ($23) for two. All major cards. (A1).

The best vegetarian restaurant is an inexpensive self-service room on the second floor of the Powerscourt shopping mall. It specializes in freshly pressed fruit juices, organic wines, several courses of the day and an extensive choice of salads. Sugar is replaced by honey, and animal broths by vegetable broths. Most of the guests are young and healthy people.

The wooden furnishings are rough, open partitions, lacquered floors, massive table-tops on lathed feet and wooden chairs with wicker bottoms. Most people opt for the offerings of the day which are chalked on a blackboard above the counter. There is also a menu with conventional items of the vegetarian type.

• Ccouscous with harissa = cooked vegetables with sweet and strong paprika sauce.

• Vegetables in seaweed.

• Tabbouleh = salad in oil with cracked wheat, tomatoes and vegetables.

• Potato salad.

• Bean purée.

• Turnip cake with whipped cream.

Casablanca

22 Temple Bar. Phone: 679 9996. Price: £33 ($52) for two. All major cards. (A1).

A Morocco restaurant in the main restaurant street. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Cave

28 South Anne Street. Phone: 679 4409. Hours: Closed Sunday lunch. Price: £34 ($53) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the coziest restaurants in the center, an inexpensive French bistro in a tiny cellar for up to 30 guests, just off Grafton Street. Edith Piaf and other French chansonists are softly played and French poems are read Sunday nights. This is an embassy of French cuisine, the left bank of the Seine on the right bank of the Liffey.

It is dark and red. Walls, carpets, napkins and lamp shades are red, sofas and baluster chairs are dark. The tables are clothed in white and red. The bar dominates the scene. There are lots of bread and butter. Service is quick and good, not included in the price so you have to add it to the bill.

• Tabbouleh = salad in oil with cracked wheat, tomatoes and green leaves.

• Terrine de campagne = country paté.

• Cassoulet de fruits de mer = pan-fried mussels, shrimp, squid and sole.

• Braised lamb.

• Bordalou pie = peach pie with peach purée.

Cedar Tree

11a St Andrew’s Street. Phone: 677 2121. Hours: Closed lunch. Price: £35 ($55) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A few steps from College Green. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Chicago Pizza Pie Factory

St Stephen’s Green. Phone: 478 1233. Fax: 478 1550. Price: £34 ($53) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The best pizzas in the center are in a rather inexpensive cellar restaurant near the corner of St Stephen’s Green and Grafton Street. These are thick pizzas in the Chicago way. It is a family place where children are cosseted. They get large balloons and their favorite food, from pizzas to ice-creams. Pizzas at £4 for one, £8 for two and £ 12 for three are quickly devoured.

The main attribute is a large glass partition between restaurant and bar, with 700-800 bottles of spirits. The restaurant is tall and wide, with American posters and traffic signs on red walls. The table-clothes are in massive red and green colors. And there is a nice parquet on the floor. Service is very friendly and rather unschooled.

• Mushrooms filled with butter, grated bread, cheese and garlic.

• Greek summer salad, with iceberg lettuce, olives, feta-cheese, cucumber and tomato.

• Chocolate cake with chocolate sauce.

• Several varieties of pizza.

Commons

Newman House, 85-86 St Stephen’s Green. Phone: 475 2597. Fax: 478 0551. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: £65 ($102) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A smart restaurant at St Stephen’s Green. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Cooke’s Café

14 South William Street. Phone: 679 0536. Fax: 679 0546. Price: £84 ($131) for two. All major cards. (A1).

One of the most fashionable restaurants with gourmet pretensions in town is a small and simple restaurant corner with elevated prices. It has enormous windows in front of the entrance to the Powerscourt shopping center. The guests are talkative and devour olives while waiting for the food. They do not linger as there are several sittings each night.

Mediterranean landscapes are painted directly on the walls. Venetian blinds make the windows softer. The kitchen is in plain view. The customers sit tightly on hard chairs at linoleum table-tops on a tiled floor. This succeeds in conveying a Mediterranean atmosphere. The cooking is Italianate Californian, good cooking with Hollywood headlines. The bread is home-made.

• Smoked cod roe paste from a commercial tube, with crème fraiche.

• Red pepper soup with feta cheese.

• Pan-fried sea bass with pepper, tomato, white wine, olive oil and spices.

• Grilled partridge with lemon thyme butter.

• Blueberries with whipped cream and vanilla sauce.

Cornucopia

19 Wicklow Street. Phone: 677 7583. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: £22 ($34) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A practical restaurant in the very center of Dublin. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Dobbins

15 Stephen’s Lane, Upper Mount Street. Phone: 676 4679. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: £50 ($78) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A wine bistro a few steps from Merrion Square. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Eastern Tandoori

34-35 South William Street. Phone: 671 0428. Fax: 677 9232. Hours: Closed Sunday lunch. Price: £45 ($70) for two. All major cards. (A2).

A few steps from the charming Powerscourt shopping mall. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Elephant & Castle

18 Temple Bar. Phone: 679 3121. Price: £48 ($75) for two. All major cards. (A1).

A fashionable, youthful and lively place with superior cooking at medium prices, sitting directly on Temple Bar. It is always full, new guests immediately replacing those who leave. Tables are not booked and guests wait at the opposite pub for a vacant table and are then fetched by the waiters.

The furnishings are informal, with bare table-tops, tight chairs and lots of conversation noise. Men take off their jackets. The service is quick and to the point, perfectly fitting the clientele. The cooking is first class, reminiscent of the Hard Rock Cafés. The produce is well chosen and the kitchen is in the hands of young chefs on their way up.

• Corn chowder.

• Mexican chili soup.

• Guacamole sandwich.

• Fettucine with chicken.

• Beef, grilled to order.

• Hamburgers.

Flanagan’s

61 Upper O’Connell Street. Phone: 873 1388. Price: £25 ($39) for two. All major cards. (B1).

An economical restaurant on the main street north of Liffey. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Fréres Jacques

74 Dame Street. Phone: 679 4555. Fax: 679 4725. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday . Price: £54 ($84) for two. All major cards. (A1).

Top gastronomic grades go to a rather expensive French restaurant opposite Dublin Castle and City Hall. The entrance is from an alley leading off Dame Street. It is a long and narrow room with a bar in the middle and seating at both ends.

The furnishings are French and the table service is elegant. Service is French and courteous, softened by Irish conviviality. This is such a cozy place that many clients come and dine alone to catch a glimpse of the real atmosphere of gastronomy. The cuisine ranges from classical to nouvelle.

• Mussels in tomato sauce.

• Duck liver in port sauce.

• Lamb liver with chanterelles.

• Mussel and fennel soup.

• Sea trout with ham.

• Chicken breast with curry and mango sauce.

• Warm rice pudding with apricots.

• Raspberry mousse Romanoff with strawberries and redcurrants.

Gallagher’s

20-21 Temple Bar. Phone: 677 2762. Price: £43 ($67) for two. All major cards. (A1).

Irish peasant cooking is best represented at this popular place of medium prices, in the midst of the Temple Bar restaurant area.

The place is dark and tight, with old walls and floors of wood, really comfortable. Irish ballads are played softly and the fireplace is in constant use, also at lunch. The reception is Irish and congenial and the room is full most of the time. You can wait in the opposite pub to be fetched by a waiter when a table is ready.

• Irish clear soup.

• Butter bean paste with thick rye bread.

• Lamb boxty with yogurt and mint sauce with red cabbage, cauliflower and turnips.

• Beef boxty with horseradish sauce.

• Bean boxty.

• Irish stew.

• Cauliflower with bacon.

• Bread- and butter pudding with raisins, whipped cream and egg whites.

Boxty are thick and leathery pancakes, made of potato dough. Formerly poor people ate boxty as they were, but now they are used with variable fillings. Formerly no wheat was used, as it was scarce and expensive, but now it is mixed in the dough.

Gastrognome

4 Nassau Street. Phone: 679 5123. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: £30 ($47) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A few steps from Trinity College. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Good World

18 South Great George’s Street. Phone: 677 5373. Price: £22 ($34) for two. All major cards. (A1).

The best Chinese restaurant in town, an inexpensive place on one of the major traffic streets in the center, just east off Dublin Castle. This is a happy restaurant for whole families, liveliest at Sunday lunch, when Chinese extended families are dining out on various dim sum. At than occasion everyone seems to know everyone else.

It is rather well designed by Chinese standards, with solid furnishings and a floor carpet. There are few of the Chinese decorations that dominate lesser places of the kind.

Won Ton = deep-fried and crisp. Cheung Fung = rolled pancakes of rice floor, filled with pork. Char Siu = deep-fried meatballs.

Dim sum arrive in towers of steaming metal pots. Some dim sum are steamed, others are deep-fried. Some are soft, others are hard. Some are sweet, others are sour. Some are strong, others are mild. The guests chose from the arriving food, building up a variety of courses on those tables, where there are many people. Rice and jasmine or green tea accompany the dim sum.

Gotham Café

8 South Anne Street. Phone: 679 5266. Price: £44 ($69) for two. All major cards. (B2).

An American style in the Grafton Street pedestrian area. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Grey Door

23 Upper Pembroke Street. Phone: 766 3286. Fax: 676 3287. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. Price: £60 ($94) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the noblest restaurants in the center, a rather expensive hotel dining room in a quiet district of 18th C. houses between Baggot Street and Leeson Street, specializing in Russian and Finnish cooking.

The restaurant is in three parts on the first floor, a red, a blue and a green room. Old paintings decorated the walls, chandeliers in the ceiling, thick white linen on the tables and comfortable, blue chairs. Downstairs is the more informal Blushes, using the same kitchen.

• Blini = Russian pancakes with smoked salmon, sturgeon caviar and salmon roes.

• Calf liver paté with raspberry jam, toast and salad.

• Salmon soup with onion, cucumber and capers.

• Lightly smoked salmon, oven-baked under a roof of cheese, crab and herbs with crème fraiche and dill.

• Braised leg of lamb in garlic fumé with new, unpeeled potatoes.

• Beef and salmon slices with mustard and mushroom sauce.

• Desserts from the trolley.

Imperial

12a Wicklow Street. Phone: 677 2580. Fax: 671 9127. Price: £36 ($56) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A good and inexpensive Chinese restaurant a few steps from Grafton Street.

It looks modern and Western, almost devoid of Chinese decorations. Still, many of the customers are from Canton or Hong Kong, especially at Sunday lunch. The menu concentrates on Canton cuisine, including almost 40 different Dim Sum lunch snacks.

• Steamed prawn butterflies.

• Deep-fried oxtail dumplings.

• Rice in lotus leaves.

• Bean paté.

• Boiled beef.

Kilkenny Kitchen

6-10 Nassau Street. Phone: 677 7066. Fax: 677 7066. Hours: Closed dinner & Sunday. Price: £10 ($16) for two. All major cards. (B1).

A first floor restaurant overlooking the Trinity university. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

King Sitric

East Pier, Howth. Phone: 832 6729. Fax: 839 2442. Hours: Closed Sunday, and in winter for lunch. Price: £60 ($94) for two. All major cards.

The city railway track ends at the boat harbor of Howth, immediately north of Dublin. At the northern end of the pier is an old-fashioned and excellent seafood restaurant, rather expensive, but worth the price.

It is small and tight, with heavy curtains, as if in pre-war Middle Europe. A very civilized inspector welcomes the guests and takes care of everything. The cooking is old-fashioned, but the material is fresh, as a lot of fish is landed here. The inspector knows what to recommend each day. The wine list is one of the best in the country.

• Smoked Ireland salmon with capers and onions.

• Wild mushroom purée.

• Poached skate with capers.

• Scallops with nectarines and herb sauce.

• Ice-cream with meringue and chocolate sauce.

L’Ecrivain

112 Lower Baggot Street. Phone: 661 1919. Fax: 676 7488. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: £50 ($78) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A classic French restaurant in the main pub street of Dublin. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Leo Burdock’s

2 Werburgh Street. Phone: 454 03306. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: £6 ($9) for two. No cards. (A2).

A seafood take-away. You just walk to the garden of nearby St Patrick’s to enjoy your lunch. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Lord Edward

23 Christchurch Place. Phone: 454 2420. Hours: Closed Sunday-Monday and at lunch Saturday. Price: £55 ($86) for two. All major cards. (A1).

A traditional seafood restaurant with medium prices opposite Christ Church, at lunchtime resembling a lawyers’ club, partly because of the short distance from the Four Courts palace. The bar is on the first floor and the restaurant on the second in a narrow house with steep stairs. For decades this has been the established seafood restaurant in town.

The tables are of sand-blown wood. The carpet is beautiful and there are sofas under the oriel windows. Service is old-fashioned and good, using plate service in the pre-war manner. The cooking is a little overdone but otherwise simple, concentrating on good products which arrive twice a day. The menu is mainly based on six types of seafood and three or four cooking methods.

• Prawn bisque.

• Avocado stuffed with shrimp and crab.

• Grilled sea-trout with lightly steamed vegetables and mashed potatoes.

• Grilled turbot with lightly steamed vegetables and mashed potatoes.

• Meringue with ice-cream, fruit and whipped cream.

• Crème brulée with fruit and whipped cream.

Old Dublin

90-91 Francis Street. Phone: 454 2028. Fax: 454 2330. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: £14 ($22) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Near St Patrick’s. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Omar Khayyam

51 Wellington Quay. Phone: 677 5758. Fax: 679 7560. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: £35 ($55) for two. All major cards. (A1).

A Middle Eastern restaurant on the Liffey bank. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Patrick Guilbaud

46 James Place / Lower Baggot Street. Phone: 676 4192. Fax: 660 1546. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: £89 ($139) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The best restaurant in Dublin and one of the most expensive is in a specially designed house in a small street behind the modern Baggot Street building of the Irish Bank. The net result of the design is to convey a certain coolness in spite of the mild and yellow colors. There is a bright bar in front and a dining room with a glass roof in back.

This is a working place for real professionals, even if rather impersonal professionals. Every thread from the design through the cuisine to the service is meant to support the notion of a temple of gastronomy. This is a temple of French cooking, where the exact organization serves the art, not the other way round. The chef-owner is Patrick Guilbaud.

• Chicken liver and shrimp paté.

• Scallop pot.

• Black sausage.

• Steamed sea trout with piped potatoes and saffron, red-pepper sauce.

• Wild goose breast with figs.

• Grilled beef with glazed turnips.

• Pear pie.

• Chocolate and raspberry cake.

Periwinkle

Powerscourt Townhouse Centre. Phone: 679 4203. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: £8 ($12) for two. All major cards. (A2).

A quaint little seafood corner on the ground floor of the Powerscourt shopping center offers some of the freshest fish in town.

Diners sit on high and low, wooden taborets at narrow and lacquered wooden wall-tables in a few vaulted nooks on tiled floors under obvious external piping. The catch of the day is chalked on a blackboard above the counter. There are always some varieties of shellfish.

• Fish chowder with home-made rye bread.

• Crab claws, shrimp and mussels with home-made rye bread.

• Fish salad with shrimp, mussels and cod.

• Fresh sole in cheese mousse casserole.

• Crab claws in garlic butter.

Pigalle

14 Temple Bar, Merchant’s Arch. Phone: 671 92262. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch and Sunday. Price: £46 ($72) for two. All major cards. (A1).

One of the few top-class French bistros in Dublin is exactly on Temple Bar, in a rustic first-floor room, with variable furniture and table-service. The French cuisine specializes in game and unusual products. This place tickles the taste-buds.

The ceiling is black and the walls of brick are white, Heavy curtains are on the outside and a dark pine wall on the inside. Plants are hanging from the ceiling. The tables are decked out in white. The service is knowledgeable, with Irish warmth and conviviality adding to the sensitive cooking. The menu price is fixed, with a choice of starters, main courses and desserts.

• Crème de carotte a l’Orange = cream soup of turnips and oranges.

• Salade tiede de calamares = octopus salad with melted butter.

• Caille rotie aux poivre vert = Roasted quail with green pasta stripes.

• Supreme de pintade duxelle de champignons et vin blanc = slices of guinea hen with mushroom and white wine dressing.

• Sorbet aux fruits rouges = red fruit sorbet.

• Mousse aux framboises = raspberry mousse.

Rajdoot

26-28 Clarendon Street, Westbury Centre. Phone: 679 4274. Price: £48 ($75) for two. All major cards. (A2).

The main showcase of Indian cooking is at a medium-priced restaurant in the Westbury hotel complex, a few steps from Grafton Street. The leading Indian restaurants of London are no better than this one, specializing in Tandoori cooking.

It is very much a designed place. Guests enter a bar level with deep chairs and heavy paneling, pewter and brass on the tables, before they step down to the carpeted restaurant level with carvings on the walls and beautifully laid-out tables. The menu is extensive, offering most of the well-known Indian dishes. There are also some fixed offers.

• Shis kabab = lamb on skewers.

• Prawn kabab = prawn on skewers.

• Lamb korma = lamb in yogurt.

• Tandoori chicken = chicken, coated in curry and yogurt, baked in a Tandoor oven.

• Pillau = cooked rice.

• Biryani = rice in saffron.

Russell Room

Westbury Hotel, Grafton Street. Phone: 679 1122. Price: £55 ($86) for two. (B2).

The luxury restaurant of the Westbury hotel, with elegant carpets, lots of flower arrangements, chandeliers and beautiful chairs.

It is one of the most beautiful restaurants in Dublin and rather expensive, though not as expensive as could be expected. Service is good and the atmosphere is light in spite of the subdued elegance of the room.

• Foi de canard = duck paté.

• Prune soup.

• Grilled beef with cauliflower and vegetable threads.

• Crusted duck with lemon, lime and coriander.

• Sea trout with hazelnuts and honey sauce.

• Strawberry pastry with strawberry sauce.

Sandbank

Westbury Hotel, Grafton Street. Phone: 679 1122. Price: £39 ($61) for two. (B2).

The medium-priced and popular restaurant in the Westbury hotel, a few steps off Grafton Street is a busy and a beautiful place.

Stained glass in windows and partitions, as well as illuminated mirrors enhance the decorations. Green sofas are supported by heavy, carved furniture of wood. The naked tables are also made of heavy wood. The waiters wear straw hats and long aprons. The atmosphere is animated and relaxed, especially at busy times which are common.

• Vol-au-vent = seafood in pastry.

• Oak-smoked salmon.

• Liver paté of the house.

• Gratinated seafood.

• Wild Ireland salmon.

• French mousses, cakes and puddings.

Stampa

35 Dawson Street. Phone: 677 8611. Fax: 677 3336. Price: £67 ($105) for two. All major cards. (B2).

The most beautiful dining room in Ireland is at this French restaurant with an Italian name in a street parallel to Grafton Street. The prices are as high as the ceiling in this singular room. A permanent commotion reigns, combining the chatter of the guests and the resonance on the wood-floor from quick steps of the busy waiters who gradually lose control of the situation.

The place is spacious and there is an immense ceiling window. Giant mirrors on both sides multiply the space. The pilaster between the mirrors are continued in red ribs in the ceiling. Plants and flowers abound, and an ocean of candles increases the romantic atmosphere. Service tries its best to cope, but does not quite succeed. The elevated cuisine fits the surroundings.

• Marinated mushrooms with parmesan flakes and olive oil on salad.

• Fettucine with tomato sauce, Toulouse sausages and coriander.

• Lobster soup.

• Rib of lamb with piped potatoes and a big tomato filled with spinach purée.

• Baccalao on piped potatoes surrounded with bacon.

• Thin melon slices with mint-flavored créme fraiche.

• Caramel pudding.

Unicorn

12b Merrion Court / Merrion Row. Phone: 676 2182. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: £18 ($28) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A low price restaurant for trendy people. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Madrid introduction

Ferðir

Cafés

The primary pastime of Madrilenos is to express themselves at cafés and bars, loudly and quickly. These marathon speechehe demise of the Falangist regime at the death of Franco in 1975.

The busy café and bar hours are 12-14 ands blossomed after the demise of the Falangist regime at the death of Franco in 1975.

History

The highest capital of Europe, 646 m above sea level, with 3 million inhabitants. The name comes from the Moors who called it Magerit. It was conquered by the Christians in 1083 and accidentally became the capital of Spain in 1561 when the Habsburg emperor Philip II decided to build the royal palace of El Escorial in the vicinity.

Madrid continued to be a dirty rural town for a while. It began to acquire cosmopolitan atmosphere after the access of the French Bourbons to the Spanish throne. They built the royal palace in the city center, laid out avenues and parks.

With the opening of new art galleries in addition to the famous Louvre, such as Colección Thyssen and Centro de Arte Reina Sofia, Madrid has become one of the artistic and cultural centers of Europe.

Life

Since the fall of Franco the capital of Spain has changed from a peaceful, oversized village into the most lively capital of Europe. The Madrilenos are adapting to democracy and freedom so enthusiastically that they seen to be making up for half a century of Falangist yoke.

Bars and cafés seem to be full of people most of the day and night. The center is on full blast from morning to morning, with quiet periods in 5-7 and 14-16 for morning and afternoon siestas.

Movida is the Madrileno name for this. Work and leisure come first and sleep comes later. Research shows Madrilenos to sleep less than inhabitants of other capitals in Europe. The abandon is such that people come to restaurants and clubs after midnight with toddlers in cradles.

Spaniards

Spain is not a single country. It is inhabited by several peoples. The central part is the landlocked Castilla, the Land of Castles, which has provided the aristocracy and the Spanish language, called Castilian by other peoples in Spain. To the south of Castilla is the poor and happy Andalucía, heavily influenced by the Moors and relatively deferent to the center.

More centrifugal are the peoples of the East and the North. The inhabitants of the active Catalunya and Valencia in the East have their own languages, related to French. The inhabitants of Galicia and Euskadi in the North also have their own languages. Galician is related to Portuguese; and Euskera, the language of the Basks, stands alone in the world, unrelated to any language.

To set Spaniard apart from other Europeans we can describe them as egocentric anarchists. They are trained to express themselves rather than to give and receive information. They will not be herded. Usually several talk at the same time at café conversations. They are arrogant and friendly, cantankerous and generous, especially fond of children. And they produce lots of artists.

Spanish history

The Iberian peninsula is both isolated and a crossroads. In prehistoric times it was populated by ancient European people like Iberians and Celts. Greeks and later Carthaginians were temporarily influential, but Romans later got a good foothold. They made Iberia one of the cornerstones of their vast empire and even imported famous emperors, poets and philosophers from Spain.

Then the Moors from Africa took over and reigned for eight centuries. They made Spain a cultural center of Islam, leaving important footprints. That period was followed by a strict Catholic period of five centuries. In the 16th C. of Discovery Spain became the most powerful country on earth, exporting the Spanish language to the major part of Latin America.

At the end of the Falangist reign of Franco Spain had again become poor and backward, with an internationally despised regime. After the re-introduction of democracy it has made up for lost time and is now a stable pillar in the Western World.

Embassies

Australia

Avenida del Generalísimo 61. Phone: 458 7200.

Canada

Núñez de Balboa 35. Phone: 225 9119.

Eire

Padilla 20. Phone: 225 1685.

South Africa

Claudio Coello 91. Phone: 225 3830.

United Kingdom

Fernando el Santo 16. Phone: 419 0200.

United States

Serrano 75. Phone: 276 3600.

Accident

Phone: 092.

Ambulance

Phone: 091.

Complaints

If you are dissatisfied with the services of a hotel or a restaurant you can demand a complaint form, “hoja de reclamaciones” in triplicate that the establishment is required to have. A demand for this form can often solve problems as the complaints of travelers are taken seriously in Spain.

Dentist

Fire

Phone: 091.

Hospital

Phone: 061.

Urgencia Médica, Barco 26, tel. 531 8847, is an emergency hospital in Madrid.

Medical Care

Pharmacy

Pharmacies are open Monday-Saturday 9-14 and Monday-Friday 16-20. Look for the sign: “Farmacia”. They usually put out signs with information on the nearest pharmacy on night duty. They are allowed to sell some medicine without prescription.

Police

Phone: 091.

Precautions

Don’t use a handbag. Keep money in inside pockets. Use cards as much as possible. Don’t keep passports in the same place as money. Don’t leave valuables in a locked car. There is some petty crime, but very little violent crime in Madrid or Spain generally.

Banks

Most banks are open Monday-Friday 9-14 and Saturday 9-13. Some open for currency change 17-19.

Credit cards

Credit cards are accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops. Visa and Eurocard (Eurocard, Access) have the largest circulation.

Electricity

Spanish voltage is 220V, same as in Europe. Plugs are continental.

Some old hotels have an older 120V system.

Hotels

Spanish hotels are generally clean and well maintained, including plumbing, if they are recommended by editors of guides like this one. Small hotels can also be very good, even if they do not have TV sets in guest rooms. A bathroom is taken for granted nowadays.

We only include such hotels, and in most cases we also demand a direct telephone line, working air-condition, and peace and silence during the night. Only hotels in the city center are included as we want to avoid long journeys between sightseeing and our Mediterranean afternoon naps. The price ranges from 4,700 pts to 32,000 pts, excluding breakfast.

We try to avoid breakfast at hotels as in Spanish hotels it is as insubstantial as in French hotels. More tasty and economical is a café with bread on the corner café patronised by the locals. Breakfast is in most cases included in the stated price, as that is the normal price quoted.

We checked all the hotels in this database during the winter of 1995-1996 as everything is fickle in this world. We have also tested some other hotels that are not included as they were not on par with the best in each price category. Some many-starred hotels in Madrid are in fact worse than our selection of two-star hotels.

Money

There are notes for 5,000, 1,000, 500 and 100 pesetas, pts, and coins for 100, 50, 25, 5 and 1 pts.

Most hotels and restaurants accept both Visa and Eurocard (MasterCard, Access)

Prices

Prices tend to rise a little more in Spain than generally in the European Union. Spain is not a cheap country any more.

Shopping

Shops are generally open Monday-Saturday 9-13/14 and Monday-Friday 16:30/17-19:30/20 and even longer on Monday-Friday. Department stores are open during the siesta, also on Saturday.

Tipping

Service is included in hotel and restaurant bills and on taximeters. Some restaurant customers even amounts up. Porters get 50 pts per suitcase.

Toilets

There are toilets in cafés, restaurants, museums and department stores. In some places there are attendants who expect tips.

Tourist office

The Oficina de Turismo is at Plaza Mayor 3, tel. 221 1268 and 266 4874; and at Princesa 1 (plaza de España), tel. 241 2325.

Water

Tap water is drinkable, but many use bottled water to be on the safe side.

Accommodation

Accommodation offices at Barajas airport and Atocha and Chamartin railway stations find hotel rooms for travelers.

Ask for a room with “twin bed” as such beds and rooms are often larger that those with “double bed”. Rooms on the outside are often more bright and airy but also more noisy that those on the inside. Rooms with a view are generally not more expensive than ones without.

Airport

Barajas airport is 13 km from the center, tel. 205 4090 and 205 8384. A taxi drive takes half an hour and costs 1,000 pts. A train is quicker than an air-conditioned bus that leaves every 20 minutes from Plaza de Cólon and gets to the airport in 45 minutes.

News

International Herald Tribune is widely sold. El País is a Spanish daily with lots of international news.

Phone

The Spanish country code is 34. The local code for Madrid is 1, 3 for Barcelona and 5 for Sevilla. You add 9 in front of calls between Spanish areas. The foreign code from Spain is 07.

Coin phones are common in bars and cafés.

Post

Post office are usually open Monday-Saturday 9-13 and Monday-Friday 17-19. The main post office in Madrid is open until midnight.

Railways

The Spanish railway system is reliable.

Taxi

Cabs are on special stands in the center. They can also be hailed in the street. If they are free they have a green light on top and a sign in the front window with the word “libre”. They use fare meters. There is a supplement for travels from and to the airport and for suitcases.

Traffic

Rush hours on the streets and in the metro are 8-10, 13-14, 16-17 and 1).30-20:30. The metro is clean and fast, but can become warm in summer.

Cigars

Spain once ruled over most of Latin America, from where many of the best cigars come. Therefore Spaniards are traditional cigar smokers and prefer good cigars, such as real Havanas. Premium cigars are widely available and less expensive than generally in Europe.

Coffee

Most establishments have espresso machines. Most Spaniards drink their coffee black (café solo). In the morning some prefer it with milk (café con leche).

Cuisine

The best cuisine in Spain is Basque and most of the famous chefs come from that region. They have the same exact attitude as French chefs. Elsewhere in Spain the cooking is relaxed, without any generally accepted rules. It is a charming, pastoral cuisine, which is at its best when simple. The ingredients are plentiful as Spain is a great agricultural and fishing country.

Desserts

Spaniards like rice for dessert, cooked with milk and spiced with cinnamon (arroz con leche). There are many varieties, some of them innovative.

Meat

Very good beef (buey) is usually available everywhere in Spain. Game is abundant, such as venison (corzo and venado), partridges (perdiz) and grouse (codorniz).

Beef is best when simply cooked, such as grilled (a la parilla) og braised (asado). Rare (poco hecho) is often better than medium (regular) or well-done (muy hecho).

Restaurants

Restaurants are generally open for orders 13:30-16 and 21-24. Many close in August and some on Sunday. Guides and concierges often try to push you into establishments that give them a percentage of your patronage.

Rioja

In Spanish restaurants many people ask for Rioja wine, which is generally the best one in Spain, Castillo Ygay and Vega Sicilia being the most famous ones.

Rioja is made by French methods and aspires to heights. The bouquet reminds you of vanilla and oak, but nowadays less definitely so. These wines age well and are kept for a long time before coming to the market. Ready now are 64, 70, 75, 78, 81, 82, and 85. 1989 and younger should be kept. Well-known Riojas are Marqués de Murrieta, Marqués de Cáceres and Marqués de Alella.

Seafood

Madrid is well-known for good seafood in spite of being an inland city. The catch arrives by air from the fishing harbors of the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Oceans. The chefs get up early in the morning to go to the fish market.

Seafood cooking is on par with the rest of Europe. It is the variety that astounds, combining Mediterranean and Atlantic species. There are oysters (ostras), many types of shells (almejas), many types of shrimp (gambas, cigalas, langostas, langosinos), lobster (bogavante), and fish such as turbot (rodaballo), red sea bream (besugo) and hake (merluzo).

Ask for simple cooking such as grilling (a la parilla) og braising (al horno). Do not forget salted fish (bacalao), which is available in some of the best restaurants.

Sherry

Cocktails are not drunk in Spain. Their place is taken by scraping dry Sherries from Andalucía, such as Tio Pepe and La Ina, which do not dull the palate. Similar and saltier are Manzanillas from the Atlantic coast of Andalucía.

The driest and finest sherries are called Fino. A little less dry are called Palo Cortado, a category that is not very common. Sweeter sherries are called Oloroso. Amontillado is a term used for blended sherries which are not quite as sweet as Olorosos. Popular abroad are very sweet Cream Sherries, which are dessert wines and not appetizers.

Sherry is produced in the area around Jerez in Andalucía. The vineyards are classified and the producing bodegas are required to use the best areas for 85% of their blends.

Tapas

As Spaniards dine two times a day and at the most outrageous hours, they need snacks in between meals. They call it “tapas” and devour it at wine and snack bars at 13-14 and 20-23, when they are waiting for a suitable time to visit a restaurant.

Tapas bars are very lively and noisy. Many tapas are deep-fried and fattening. Some tapas often have an excellent taste, such as squid circles (calamares), red and small sausages, heavily spiced and doused with alcohol (chorizo), shrimp (gambas, cigalas), shells (almejas), anchovies (anchoas), snails (caracoles), cheese (manchego) and raw ham (jamón serrano)

Wine

Spanish wine is generally good, though sometimes tending to be rather neutral in taste. Chateau or denomination wines are definitely not as common as in France. Most people ask for the wine of the house or for Rioja wine, which is generally the best one in Spain, Castillo Ygay and Vega Sicilia being the most famous ones.

Rioja is made by French methods and aspires to heights. The bouquet reminds you of vanilla and oak, but nowadays less definitely so. These wines age well and are kept for a long time before coming to the market. Ready now are 64, 70, 75, 78, 81, 82, and 85. 1989 and younger should be kept. Well-known Riojas are Marqués de Murrieta, Marqués de Cáceres and Marqués de Alella.

Cocktails are not drunk in Spain. Their place is taken by scraping dry Sherries from Andalucía, such as Tio Pepe and La Ina, which do not dull the palate. Surprisingly many Spaniards drink still or sparkling mineral water with their meals, especially at lunch. Water is served in the wine glasses and the bottles are put in the wine coolers.

Surprisingly many Spaniards drink still or sparkling mineral water with their meals, especially at lunch. Water is served in the wine glasses and the bottles are put in the wine coolers.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Roma introduction

Ferðir

History

Rome has seen everything during her history of 2700 years. She has endured attacks and pillage by foreign barbarians, nch kings and native popes. Some of her proudest monuments are in ruins. Powerful locals have been the greatesmad emperors, French kings and native popes. Some of her proudest monuments are in ruins. Powerful locals have been the greatest spoilers.

Visitors come to see the ancient ruins in Forum, Capitolum and Palatinum. They also come to see the St Peter’s (San Pietro) cathedral an baroque churches. And finally the come to relax in cafés and restaurants of the narrow alleys in the Martian Fields (Campo di Marzo) center of the city. According to the law of contrasts, young people are attracted to this medieval part of Rome.

One million people lived here in the golden age of classical Rome. Later the number of inhabitants fell to thirty thousand in the Middle Ages. Now it is up to three million people. Rome is not as big as Paris, London or New York, but she has more memories of the past than the other cities.

Life

Rome is a city of contrasts, of youth and old age. She has for twenty centuries claimed to be the center of the world, first as the seat of emperors and then as the seat of popes. She carries her age well, brimming with life from morning into the night.

The night life of La Dolce Vita never existed though, but all classes of society are dropping into cafés all the time. Rome is not awake in the night but takes days and evenings with gusto.

Car traffic in the city is chaos incarnate. Drivers throng through every alley and fill every square, avoiding collisions with people. They argue loudly as other Romans. In spite of that, tolerance is one of the main traits of the Romans. The city is the Catholic capital of the world but its citizens are mediocre believers. They are primarily seasoned and wise in the ways of the world.

Seven Hills

The seven hills of ancient Rome are: Capitolum, Palatinum, Aventinum, Celium, Esquilinium, Viminal and Quirinal.

Canada

Via G.B. De Rossi 27. Phone: 841 5341.

United Kingdom

Via XX Settembre 80. Phone: 482 5441.

United States

Via Veneto 119-121. Phone: 467 41.

Accident

Phone: 113.

Ambulance

Phone: 113.

Complaints

It is generally useless and a waste of time to complain in Italy. Instead try to look at the bright side.

Dentist

An emergency dentist is available at Ospedale G. Eastman, tel. 490 042.

Fire

Phone: 115.

Hospital

English speaking staff are at Salvator Mundi International Hospital, tel. 586 041.

Medical care

Phone: 475 6741.

This number answers day and night and gives information on the services of medical doctors.

Pharmacy

Hours: 8:30-13, 16-20.

Closed pharmacies have signs on their doors to point out where there is night duty. Internazionale at Piazza Barberini 49, phone 482 5456, is open day and night.

Police

Phone: 113.

The city police, Vigili urbani, wear blue uniforms in winter and white in summer. The state police, La Polizia, wear blue uniforms with white belts and berets. The military police, Carabineri, wear red-striped trousers. You can ask all three types for help.

Precautions

Don’t use a handbag. Keep money in inside pockets. Use cards as much as possible. Don’t keep passports in the same place as money. Don’t leave valuables in a locked car. Beware of gypsy children, especially in groups. Petty crime abounds, but there is very little violent crime in Rome.

Banks

Hours: Weekdays 8:30-13:30, 14:45-15:45.

Change foreign money in banks or at “cambio”-offices, not in hotels. Some banks only change foreign money during the morning hours. A bank is open 24 hours a day at the central railway station but often there is a long queue.

Credit cards

Credit cards are widely accepted in hotels, restaurants and shops. Visa and Eurocard (Access, MasterCard) have the largest circulation.

Electricity

Italian voltage is 220V, same as in Europe. Plugs are continental.

Hotels

Roman hotels are generally clean and well maintained, including plumbing, if they have three or more official stars. But two-starred hotels can also be very good, even if they do not have TV sets in guest rooms. A bathroom is taken for granted nowadays.

We only include such hotels, and in most cases we also demand a direct telephone line, working air-condition, and peace and silence during the night. Only hotels in the city center are included as we want to avoid long journeys between sightseeing and our Mediterranean afternoon naps. The price ranges from L. 80.000 to L. 590.000, excluding breakfast.

We try to avoid breakfast at hotels as in Italian hotels it is as insubstantial as in French hotels. More tasty and economical is the espresso coffee with cornettos on the corner café patronised by the locals. Breakfast is in most cases included in the stated price, as that is the normal price quoted.

We checked all the hotels in this database during the winter of 1995-1996 as everything is fickle in this world. We have also tested some other hotels that are not included as they were not on par with the best in each price category. Some four-star hotels in Rome are in fact worse than our selection of two-star hotels.

Money

The currency in Italy is the lire (L.). Paper money is dominant, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10000, 50000 and 100000 lire (L.), increasing in size with their value. Coins are for 50, 100, 200 and 500 lire.

Prices

Prices have gone up on par with Western Europe.

Shopping

Shops are open 9-13, 15:30-19:30 in summer, 16-20 in winter. Sometimes they close earlier on Saturdays.

Tipping

A service charge is generally included in restaurant bills. Some guests leave a few thousand lire extra. Taxi drivers expect at least 10% from foreigners. Porters expect L. 1000 per bag.

Toilets

There are few public toilets. The toilets in cafés are sometimes not up to standard, but generally they are acceptable in restaurants. Bring the paper if you are not visiting a restaurant.

Tourist office

The National Tourist Board, Ente Provinicale per il Turismo, has its head office at Via Parigi 11, tel. 461 851 and branches at the airport and the central railway station.

Water

Tap water is usually clean and tasty. In restaurants most people drink bottled water.

Accommodation

The tourist office at the central railway station finds hotel rooms for travelers. Ask for a room with “twin bed” as such beds and rooms are often larger that those with “double bed”. Rooms on the outside are often more bright and airy but also more noisy that those on the inside.

Airport

The Leonardo da Vinci airport at Fiumicino is 30 km (18 miles) south-west of Rome, tel. 60 121. A bus takes 60-80 minutes from the airport to the central railway station. The train takes 30 minutes from the airport to the Porta San Paolo station where you connect to the Metro subway system. Taxis take 40-60 minutes to the city center and are expensive, cost L. 50.000 from the airport and L. 60.000 to the airport.

News

International Herald Tribune and other important foreign newspapers are available at many kiosks in central Rome. The main Roman newspapers are La Republica and Il Messagero. There are three TV channels, Uno, Due and Tre, and additionally cable channels in many hotel rooms, including CNN.

Phone

The Italian country code is 39 and the local code for Rome is 06. The foreign code from Italy is 00.

Post

The postal service is inefficient. Either use express post or use the Papal post at the Piazza San Petro in front of the Vatican. Italian post boxes are red and the Vatican ones are blue. A post office is open day and night at the central railway station.

Post

The postal service is inefficient in Italy. The main post office in Venice is beside the Rialto bridge, in Palazzo dei Tedeschi, tel. 529 911

Railways

The Italian railway system is inexpensive and effective.

Taxis

Registered taxis are yellow with an illuminated sign on top and use fare meters. They park at marked stands and can also be hailed on the street even if not strictly allowed. They charge supplements for baggage, night and Sunday journeys, and for journeys to the airport. The meter runs when the taxi is bogged down in traffic. Foreigners are expected to tip 10% or more.

Traffic

Rush hours are 8-9:30 and 17-20. It is often quicker to walk than to take a taxi. Beware of cars crossing at red lights. Don’t drive yourself. The Metro is convenient for getting around in the city.

Coffee

Italians are the first-class nation of coffee culture. They drink all their coffee freshly ground in espresso machines. Most often they drink espresso or caffè = very strong; doppio = double the size of an espresso; cappucino = espresso mixed with air-whipped milk. Bad coffee for tourists is called americano. Italians usually have their coffee standing at the bar.

Cuisine

Foreigners often think that Italian cooking consists mainly of pastas after pastas. In fact this is more complicated. Italians do not talk of Italian cooking, but of Venetian, Tuscanian, Ligurian, Latin and so on. In this database we concentrate on Roman cooking, even if we include restaurants representing other types of Italian cooking.

Descriptions

Carciofi alla giudia: The artichokes are opened and flattened, cut in pieces and deep fried in an oil mixture of secret ingredients. After cooking they are golden and look like flowers. This is the speciality of the Jewish ghetto.

Pesto: A famous, strong sauce from Liguria, generally greenish, made of basil, nuts, garlic and lots of grana cheese. Liguria is the name of the coastal area around Genua.

Polenta: Corn porridge made by boiling maize in water until it becomes thick and chunky. Then it is cooled and cut in slices which are usually fried, baked or grilled. The porridge form in the Vecchia Roma restaurant is rather unusual.

Prosciutto Smoked ham. The best internationally known smoked ham comes from Parma. In Italy the one from San Danieli is considered at least equal to the one from Parma. The ham is always cut in very thin slices. Out of Italy it is most often accompanied with melon, but Italians like figs better.

Ricotta: Soft, unsalted cheese, reminiscent of Greek feta cheese, eaten fresh. Usually it is put into pasta envelopes and in sweet bakery, but it is also served in wet and soft dumplings.

Risotto: A rice dish from the Po valley, generally connected with Milan and Venice. The rice is first fried in oil or butter, often with onions, and then cooked in a small amount of liquid, wine or the juice of the food which then is mixed into the rice when it is served. Often butter and grana cheese are added.

Tartufi: Truffle. The Italian type of tuber, the underground mushrooms dug up with the help of trained dogs and pigs. This type is white and almost as expensive as the French black ones. They have a pungent aroma and are always used uncooked, usually in small amounts with some other food. Tartufi is one of the things essentially Italian.

Trippa: Tripe. Can be soft and tasty when it is correctly cooked. It is a national dish all the way from Rome to Florence.

Pecorino: A hard ewe cheese reminiscent of grana or parmesan.

Tuscany cuisine: Generally considered the top of Italian cooking. The Queens of France were often brought from Florence, bringing with them their chefs, starting what is now called classical French cuisine. The best pasta in Italy comes from Tuscany: ravioli and gnochi. And Tuscany is one of the best wine regions in Italy.

Zuppa di cozze: Mussel soup. Oil, onion and tomatoes are heated in a pan, water is added and finally the mussels are added, opening on the way to the table.

Eating habits

Italians do not eat much in the morning. They may have an espresso and cornetto at the corner café or bakery. Lunch often starts at 13:30 and dinner at 20:30. Both lunch and dinner are hot meals and are equally important. Italians like food and consume it with abandon.

They are on the other hand careful with the wine and some only drink water. Tap water is very good and clean in Rome, coming in ducts from the mountains. In restaurants most people have bottled water though, aqua minerale, often with gas, gassata.

Ingredients

Alla Romana:

• Abbachio alla romana = lamb cooked in egg, lemon and white wine sauce.

• Gnochi alla romana = mashed potato dumplings with tomato sauce and cheese.

• Pizza alla romana = pizza with mozzarella cheese, parmesan cheese and basil.

• Piselli alla romana = beans fried with onion, ham and butter.

• Pollo alla romana = chicken pieces fried in oil and butter with onion, ham, pepper and tomato.

• Saltimbocca alla romana = thin veal covered in ham.

• Trippa alla romana = tripe in tomato mint sauce, accompanied with pecorino-cheese.

• Zuppa alla romana = shellfish soup.

Cheese:

• Bel paese = mild and soft cheese.

• Gorgonzola = rather soft and strong blue cheese.

• Grana = very hard cooking cheese.

• Mozzarella = rubbery young cheese.

• Parmiggiano = parmesan cheese, a type of grana.

• Pecorino = hard and strong Roman ewe cheese.

• Provolone = strong cheese.

• Ricotta = fresh ewe cheese.

• Taleggio = mild & creamy cheese.

Fish:

• Bonito = tuna.

• Merlano = whiting.

• Merluzzo = cod.

• Rombo = turbot and brill.

• Rospo = monkfish.

• Sogliola = sole.

• Spada = swordfish.

• Spigola = sea bass.

Game:

• Allodole = lark.

• Beccaccia = woodcock.

• Capretto = kid.

• Capriolo = roebuck.

• Cervo = venison.

• Chinghiale = wild boar.

• Lepre = hare.

• Quaglie = quail.

• Starna = partridge.

• Uccelletti = small birds, such as sparrows.

Innards:

• Animelle = sweetbreads.

• Cervella = brains.

• Coratella = lamb lungs.

• Fegato = liver.

• Pagliata = kidneys.

• Rognoni = kidneys.

• Trippa = tripe.

Roman seafood:

• Antipasto di mare = cold seafood platter.

• Fritto misto di mare = deep fried seafood with lemon.

• Insalata di mare = seafood salad.

• Risotto di frutti di mare = fried rice with seafood.

• Zuppa di pesce alla romana = shellfish soup.

Roman specialities:

• Abbacchio = baby lamb.

• Alla romana = (usually) with tomato and sometimes red wine.

• Asparagus.

• Mint.

• Pecorino cheese.

• Ricotta cheese.

• Stracciatella = egg and cheese soup.

• Trippa = veal tripe.

Shellfish:

• Arselle and vongole = small shells.

• Cappe and cappesante = scallops.

• Cozze and muscoli = mussels.

Shrimp:

• Gamberi.

• Scampi.

• Gamberoni (big).

• Mazzancolle (very big).

Soups:

• Brodo = clear soups.

• Minestrone = clear soups with pasta.

• Minestre = thick soups with rice or pasta.

• Egg soups such as zuppa pavese and stracciatella.

Menus

An Italian menu typically has five sections: Antipasti = starters; pasti or asciutti or primi platti = pasta courses; secundi piatti = fish or meat; contorni or verdure = vegetables and salads; dolci and frutti and formaggi = sweets, fruit and cheeses.

There are no rules on the number of courses in a menu. Some have a starter and then two pastas, one after the other. The usual thing is to have three courses. It could be a starter, a pasta and a meat course. Or it could be a pasta, a meat, a side course. Or a pasta, a meat and a dessert.

The price of a starter, pasta or a bottle of the house wine is usually two times the price of a side course or a dessert; and the price of a main course is usually three times the price. The prices in this database are usually calculated on the basis of a starter, a second course and either a side course or a dessert. All prices are for two persons.

Restaurants

Lunch hour is 13:30-15, dinner 20:30-23. In most places the owner or some waiters understand English. Roman restaurants are generally small and clean, sometimes accidentally decorated. They usually have linen tablecloths and linen napkins, most often white.

Nowhere in the world is the service in restaurants better than in Italy. The waiters are generally quick and effective. They hurry with the courses until you arrive at the last course. Then everything slows down. It seems that Italians like to eat in a hurry and then to linger on over the wine glass or coffee. Quick service does not mean that the waiter wants to get rid of you.

Wine

The house wine is usually well chosen and economical, either bianco or rosso, white or red. Connoisseurs can have a look at the list to find something unusual, as no country in the world has as many different labels. Italian wine is generally good, sound and simple, but lacking in great growths. Italians do not take their wine as seriously as the French do. Red wines are generally better than white.

Roman wine is simple and agreeable: Frascati, colli albani, cori, montecompatri, velletri, zagarolo, all with the official quality denomination D.O.C. (denominazione di origine controllata). They are mainly white wines.

Better wines come from the north, mainly Piemonte and Tuscany. The best known Tuscany wine is chianti, especially chianti classico. Even better are brunello di montalcino, vernaccia di san gimignano, tignanello and sassicaia. From Piemonte there are barolo, barbaresco, barbera, dolcetto and grignolino.

The ancient Greeks loved Italian wine and gave Italy the name of Oenotria or the country of wine.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Dublin hotels

Ferðir

Avalon House

55 Aungier Street. Phone: 475 0001. Fax: 475 0303. Price: £45 ($70) with breakfast. All major cards. 38 rooms. (A2).

An inexpensive hotel in a very central location. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Bloom’s

Anglesea Street. Phone: 671 5622. Fax: 671 5997. Price: £71 ($111) with breakfast. All major cards. 86 rooms. (A1).

The reasonable and small hotel, named after the main character in Ulysses by James Joyce, is perfectly located on the slope from Dame Street to Temple Bar, just 100 meters from the latter and 300 meters from Grafton Street.

This is a comfortable and just a little worn hotel in old-fashioned modern style, with good concierges. The lobby is minuscule but the rooms are ample. Room service is for 24 hours, and there are amenities for businessmen and an indoor car park.

Room 506 is high up in the hotel, with triple glass in the windows, efficiently cutting out noise. It is divided into a sleeping and a sitting section on the two sides of a balcony. It has a good writing desk, a trouser press and a hair dryer, a direct phone line, a welcoming bottle of red wine and a newspaper of the day. The quality bathroom is well equipped.

Buswell’s

Molesworth Street. Phone: 676 4013 & 676 4016. Fax: 676 2090. Price: £102 ($159) with breakfast. All major cards. 70 rooms. (B2).

The main hotel of atmosphere is old and worn and small, with parliamentarians as clients, standing opposite the entrance to the Irish Parliament in Leinster House, near most of the important museums in Dublin and 300 meters from Grafton Street. In spite of the location, the street in front is quiet.

The staff is especially friendly and efficient, some of the best staff in town. The rooms are variable in size and comfort.

Room no. 103 is old-fashioned, small and worn. It is well equipped, has a trouser press and a hair dryer. The bathroom is also small, fully tiled and with all amenities, except for a rather weak shower.

Central

1-5 Exchequer Street. Phone: 679 7302. Fax: 679 7303. Price: £100 ($156) with breakfast. All major cards. 70 rooms. (A1).

As centrally located as possible. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Christchurch Inn

Christchurch Place. Phone: 475 0111. Fax: 475 0488. Price: £60 ($94) with breakfast. All major cards. 183 rooms. (A1).

Opposite Christchurch and a few steps from Dublin Castle. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Clarence

6-8 Wellington Quay. Phone: 662 3066. Fax: 662 3077. Price: £200 ($312) with breakfast. All major cards. 50 rooms. (A1).

Refurbished luxury hotel centrally located on the Liffey. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Conrad

Earlsfort Terrace. Phone: 676 5555. Fax: 676 5424. Price: £200 ($312) with breakfast. All major cards. 191 rooms. (B2).

An expensive luxury hotel near St Stephen’s Green. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Davenport

Merrion Square. Phone: 661 6800. Fax: 661 5663. Price: £160 ($250) with breakfast. All major cards. 120 rooms. (B2).

A neo-classical hotel on one of the most charming squares in central Dublin. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Fitzwilliam

41 Upper Fitzwilliam Street. Phone: 660 0448. Fax: 676 7488. Price: £60 ($94) with breakfast. All major cards. 12 rooms. (B2).

An inexpensive, small hotel in a 18th C. city house on the corner of pubby Baggot Street and Fitzwilliam Street, 400 meters from St Stephen’s Green and 800 meters from Grafton Street.

The family-owned hotel has friendly and pleasant staff. Guests are provided with keys when they go out in the night. Breakfast is served in the basement. Many guest rooms are furnished with antiques.

Old-fashioned room no. 32 is rather large, faces the street, furnished with three beds. The bathroom is also old-fashioned but functioning well.

Georgian House

20-21 Lower Baggot Street. Phone: 661 8832. Fax: 661 8834. Price: £81 ($127) with breakfast. All major cards. 33 rooms. (B2).

A romantic and rather inexpensive hotel in four city houses directly on the main street of renowned pubs, 300 meters from St Stephen’s Green and 600 meters from Grafton Street.

The family-owned hotel has a tiny lobby below narrow stairs. The staff are friendly. Breakfast is served in the basement Ante Room restaurant, which is respected for seafood.

Room no. 124 is spacious, with large windows to the street, well equipped with heavy and solid furniture of the dated kind. The bathroom is rather well furnished.

Grafton Plaza

Johnson’s Place. Phone: 475 0888. Fax: 475 0908. Price: £80 ($125) with breakfast. All major cards. 75 rooms. (A2).

A new hotel near the pedestrian Grafton Street. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Gresham

23 Upper O’Connell Street. Phone: 874 6881. Fax: 878 7175. Price: £120 ($188) with breakfast. All major cards. 200 rooms. (B1).

One of the most traditional hotels of central Dublin. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Grey Door

23 Upper Pembroke Street. Phone: 676 3286. Fax: 676 3287. Price: £95 ($148) with breakfast. All major cards. 7 rooms. (B2).

A very elegant micro-hotel in a residential street of embassies in the center, really a renowned restaurant with some added rooms. It is 300 meters from St Stephen’s Green, 400 meters from Baggot Street and 700 meters from Grafton Street.

There is scarcely a lobby, only some space around a staircase. The sitting room upstairs is stately and spacious. The staff is excellent. The front door is always locked and guests are fitted out with a key. Breakfast is served in the venerable restaurant of the same name.

The elegant room no. 3 is divided by a kind of an arcade into a sleeping part and a sitting part. It has very good furnishings, including two TV sets, a trouser press, a hair drier, a coffee machine, a good writing desk and three easy chairs. The bathroom has elegant, white tiles, golden taps and thick robes.

Harcourt

60 Harcourt Street. Phone: 478 3677. Fax: 475 2013. Price: £80 ($125) with breakfast. All major cards. 40 rooms. (A2).

A few steps from St Stephen’s Green. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Kelly’s

36 South Great Georges Street. Phone: 677 9277. Fax: 671 3216. Price: £57 ($89) with breakfast. All major cards. 24 rooms. (A2).

A good quality to price ratio is available in this small and cozy, clean and old-fashioned hotel in the center, 200 meters from Dame Street and 400 meters from Grafton Street.

The first floor lobby adjoins a sitting room, a good breakfast room and a nice bar with high windows and leather chairs. Service is good in this family-owned hotel. The front door is locked at night and guests push a bell to be admitted.

The tiny room no. 23 is furnished in taste and has the normal conveniences, including a hair-dryer. A thick carpet covers the creaking floor. The small and tasteful bathroom has also a carpet and is well furnished.

Leeson Court

26-27 Lower Leeson Street. Phone: 676 3380. Fax: 661 8273. Price: £80 ($125) with breakfast. All major cards. 20 rooms. (B2).

Near St Stephen’s Green. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Longfields

Lower Fitzwilliam Street. Phone: 676 1367. Fax: 676 1542. Price: £80 ($125) with breakfast. All major cards. 28 rooms. (B2).

A few steps from Merrion Square (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Mont Clare

Merrion Square. Phone: 661 6799. Fax: 661 5663. Price: £125 ($195) with breakfast. All major cards. 74 rooms. (B2).

On one of the most charming squares in central Dublin. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Royal Dublin

40 Upper O’Connell Street. Phone: 873 3666. Fax: 873 3120. Price: £95 ($148) with breakfast. All major cards. 117 rooms. (B1).

On the main street north of the Liffey. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Russell Court

21-25 Harcourt Street. Phone: 478 4066. Fax: 478 1576. Price: £80 ($125) with breakfast. All major cards. 42 rooms. (A2).

A few steps from St Stephen’s Green. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Shelbourne

St Stephen’s Green. Phone: 676 6471. Fax: 661 6006. Price: £170 ($266) with breakfast. All major cards. 150 rooms. (B2).

The most expensive hotel in the city is an historical landmark since 1824 with a St Stephen’s Green address and a location only 300 meters from Grafton Street. The constitution of the Irish Republic was written in this palace of red and white and some episodes in literature are situated there.

It is old and revered, lively though, with creaking and sloping floors under thick carpets. The comfortable public rooms have been restored to their original appearance and the guest rooms are appealing. One of the best known pubs in London, the Horseshoe bar, is on the ground level. Service has come down since the Forte chain acquired it, especially the porterage.

Room no. 222 is enormous, divided in two parts, a bedroom and a sitting room, tastefully and splendidly furnished, with large windows on the green. The bathroom is unusually elegant.

Staunton’s

83 St Stephen’s Green South. Phone: 478 2300. Fax: 478 2263. Price: £88 ($138) with breakfast. All major cards. (B2).

A solid, expensive and rather sound-conductive small hotel alongside the Foreign Ministry, 500 meters from Grafton Street. The front rooms face Stephen’s Green and the back rooms face Iveagh Gardens.

The lobby is tiny, there is no lift and the stairs are steep. The views add space to the smallish rooms. The breakfast room is in the basement.

The very small no. 301 has thin walls and the normal conveniences, including a coffee machine. The tiny bathroom is neither tiled nor stylish but has all the amenities, including a good shower.

Stephen’s Hall

14-17 Lower Leeson Street. Phone: 661 0585. Fax: 661 0606. Price: £150 ($234) with breakfast. All major cards. 37 rooms. (B2).

Near St Stephen’s Green. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Temple Bar

Fleet Street. Phone: 677 3333. Fax: 677 3088. Price: £100 ($156) with breakfast. All major cards. 108 rooms. (A1).

A lively hotel in a very central location, 50 meters from Temple Bar and 400 meters from Grafton Street.

It is new and sparkling, furnished in taste and quality, including the breakfast room behind the small and sometimes crowded lobby, overflowed with groups leaving and coming. The employees are friendly and relaxed but not experienced enough in the breakfast room.

Quality and style mark room no. 115. It has a good writing desk, a trouser press and a coffee machine. The bathroom is handsome but the shower is rather tepid.

Westbury

Grafton Street. Phone: 679 1122. Fax: 679 7078. Price: £149 ($233) with breakfast. All major cards. 195 rooms. (B2).

The best and the best situated hotel, expensive, large and modern, only 30 meters from Grafton Street. The Powerscourt boutique shopping center is just behind the hotel.

No less than three of the best restaurants in Dublin are inside the hotel, Russell, Sandbank and Rajdoot. There is also a shopping arcade in the hotel, so that the hotel becomes a self-contained world in heavy rain. The lobby on two floors is a large and cold marble palace with an impressive staircase.

Room no. 606 is unusually spacious and of unusually good quality, with mahogany furniture and blue colors, good lamps and wide mirrors, impressively stylish. The bathroom is fully tiled, in two parts, with a bath and a toilet in the inner part. The shower was not very efficient.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Madrid hotels

Ferðir

Ambassador

Cuesta de Santo Domingo 5. Phone: 541 6700. Fax: 559 1040. Price: Pts.20800 ($166) without breakfast. All major cards. 163 rooms. (A2).

Near the opera and the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Atlántico

Gran Vía 38. Phone: 522 6480. Fax: 531 0210. Price: Pts.11400 ($91) without breakfast. All major cards. 80 rooms. (B2).

At the main traffic artery in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

California

Gran Vía 38. Phone: 522 4703. Fax: 531 6101. Price: Pts.7900 ($63) without breakfast. All major cards. 26 rooms. (B2).

At the main traffic artery in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Carlos V

Maestro Vitoria 5. Phone: 531 4100. Fax: 531 3761. Price: Pts.12500 ($100) with breakfast. All major cards. 67 rooms. (B2).

A small hotel on a peaceful pedestrian street in the shopping area between Plaza Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía.

The staff is helpful and cheerful.

Room no. 209 has a balcony overlooking the street, where a violinist and a flutist alternated in producing soft and gentle notes for hours on end. It is smallish and comfortable with old furniture and a neat bathroom.

Casón del Tormes

Rio 7. Phone: 541 9746. Fax: 541 1852. Price: Pts.12000 ($96) without breakfast. All major cards. 63 rooms. (A2).

A few steps from Plaza de España and Jardines de Sabatini. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Condes

Los Libreros 7. Phone: 521 5455. Fax: 521 7882. Price: Pts.9500 ($76) without breakfast. All major cards. 68 rooms. (B2).

Near Gran Vía. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Cortezo

Dr. Cortezo 3. Phone: 369 0101. Fax: 369 3774. Price: Pts.11300 ($90) without breakfast. All major cards. 88 rooms. (B2).

A few steps from Plaza Benavente and 300 meters from Plaza Major. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Emperador

Gran Via 53. Phone: 547 2800. Fax: 547 2817. Price: Pts.14100 ($113) without breakfast. All major cards. 232 rooms. (A2).

At the main traffic artery in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Europa

Carmen 4. Phone: 521 2900. Fax: 521 4696. Price: Pts.8200 ($66) without breakfast. No cards. (B2).

One of the best buys in town, an inexpensive hotel with friendly staff a few steps from Plaza Puerta del Sol.

Half the rooms have a sideways view to the Puerta del Sol and the others overlook a flowery atrium. Breakfast is not served and there is a breakfast café next door.

Room no. 214 is large and quaint with a sitting area near a balcony that has some view to the square. There is no motor traffic in the street and the windows are double-glazed, ensuring peace. There is no TV set and no air-condition. The large bathroom is fully tiled and functions well.

Francisco I

Arenal 15. Phone: 248 0204. Fax: 542 2899. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) without breakfast. All major cards. (A2).

On the street connecting Plaza Puerta del Sol and Plaza Oriente. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Inglés

Echegaray 8. Phone: 429 6551. Fax: 420 2423. Price: Pts.10000 ($80) without breakfast. All major cards. (B2).

A few steps from Plaza de Canalejas. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Italia

Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada 2. Phone: 522 4790. Fax: 521 2891. Price: Pts.7000 ($56) without breakfast. All major cards. 58 rooms. (B2).

A few steps from Gran Vía. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Liabeny

Salud 3. Phone: 532 5306. Fax: 532 7421. Price: Pts.17900 ($143) without breakfast. All major cards. 224 rooms. (B2).

A comfortable hotel on a pedestrian street in the shopping district between Plaza Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía.

The hotel is Mexican owned and has many guests from Latin America. There is no traffic noise around it.

Room no. 201 is of a normal size, unusually well furnished. It has a luxurious bathroom of marble and tiles.

Mayorazgo

Flor Baja 3. Phone: 547 2600. Fax: 541 2485. Price: Pts.16100 ($129) without breakfast. All major cards. 200 rooms. (A2).

Well situated in a quiet location a few steps from Gran Vía, near Plaza de Españja.

The picturesque furnishings emulate a Castilian castle, both in the public areas and in the guest rooms. Prices of rooms are variable.

Room no. 323 is of the more inexpensive type, rather small and well furnished with a parquet and good carpets on the floor and equipped with a trouser press. The marble bathroom functions well.

Mercator

Atocha 123. Phone: 429 0500. Fax: 369 1252. Price: Pts.11400 ($91) without breakfast. All major cards. 89 rooms. (C3).

A few steps from Centro de Arte Reina Sofía and Jadrín Botánico. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Moderno

Arenal 2. Phone: 531 0900. Fax: 531 3550. Price: Pts.10500 ($84) without breakfast. All major cards. 100 rooms. (B2).

A practical hotel a few steps from the main square in central Madrid, Plaza Puerta del Sol.

The clean and faded hotel has parquet floors and polished furniture. Breakfast is not served, but the best breakfast café in town, Mallorquina, is around the corner.

Room no. 412 has an inside location. It has a parquet floor and all the amenities in the bathroom.

Palace

Plaza de las Cortes 7. Phone: 429 7551. Fax: 429 8266. Price: Pts.40000 ($320) without breakfast. All major cards. 436 rooms. (C2).

The two luxury hotels of Madrid face each other at Cánovas del Castillo square. Ritz is higher in class, being the abode of visiting dignitaries. Palace is the parliamentary hotel, handy for the next door parliament on the other side of Carrera de San Jeronimo. Prado Museum is on the other side of Paseo del Prado. Palace is thus in the middle of the action in Madrid.

There are extensive and luxurious saloons on the ground floor, including a circular coffee lounge with a glass roof. On the upper floors there are several lounges in the corridors and near the elevators. The building is from 1912 and has been refurbished according to the latest demands and fashions. Service is very good.

Room no. 106 is old-fashioned, rather large, furnished with inlaid wood, leather chairs and an exclusive carpet, in addition to all the comforts. The large bathroom has lots of tiles and mirrors. There is some noise from the street, but more quiet rooms at the rear are also available.

París

Alcalá 2. Phone: 521 6496. Fax: 531 0188. Price: Pts.11000 ($88) with breakfast. All major cards. 1204 rooms. (B2).

Perfectly situated just on Plaza Puerta del Sol, the center of Madrid, with many rooms overlooking the square.

It is also inexpensive, partly due to the lack of an elevator. It is gleaming with cleanliness and polish. The rooms which do not have a view to the square, overlook a flowery atrium.

Room no. 221 overlooks the square. The balcony is a perfect spot for observing the constant goings-on in the square from 7 in the morning to 5 in the morning. It has no TV set and needs none. The double glazing prevents noises entering the room when the window is closed. The parquet floor is well polished and the fully tiled bathroom functions perfectly.

Prado

Prado 11. Phone: 369 0234. Fax: 429 2829. Price: Pts.16500 ($132) without breakfast. All major cards. 47 rooms. (B2).

Between Plaza Santa Ana og Plaza Canovás del Castillo. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Regina

Alcalá 19. Phone: 521 4725. Fax: 521 4725. Price: Pts.11900 ($95) without breakfast. All major cards. 142 rooms. (B2).

On the main street leading to Plaza Puerta del Sol. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Ritz

Plaza de la Lealtad 5. Phone: 521 2857. Fax: 532 8776. Price: Pts.49500 ($396) without breakfast. All major cards. 127 rooms. (C2).

The two luxury hotels of Madrid face each other at Cánovas del Castillo square. Ritz is higher in class, being the abode of visiting dignitaries. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Santo Domingo

Plaza Santo Domingo 13. Phone: 547 9800. Fax: 547 5995. Price: Pts.17500 ($140) without breakfast. All major cards. 120 rooms. (A2).

Between Gran Vía and the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Suecia

Marqués de Casa Riera 4. Phone: 531 6900. Fax: 521 7141. Price: Pts.20000 ($160) without breakfast. All major cards. 119 rooms. (B2).

Just behind the parliament building, on a quiet square with light traffic, one of he first hotels in Madrid to offer non-smoking guest rooms.

A quaint coffee bar is on a platform inside the foyer. The personal gives a warm welcome.

Room no. 201 is on the small side, with sound-insulated windows out to he square, furnished with potted plants and some mirrors. It is in light, summer blue colors. The bathroom is very good.

Victoria

Plaza de Santa Ana 14. Phone: 531 4500. Fax: 522 0307. Price: Pts.23000 ($184) without breakfast. All major cards. 195 rooms. (B2).

Well situated at the two squares of Santa Ana and Ángel, two noisy centers of the main district of cafés and bars just south of Plaza Puerta del Sol.

This was formerly the lodging of bullfighters and Hemingway. Now it has been modernized inside. The facade though is a protected monument. An immense and luxurious lounge is on the ground floor. Most rooms have bay windows to one of the two squares.

The spacious room no. 306 has a bay window overlooking Plaza del Ángel. The quality furnishings are tasteful and the bathroom is luxurious.

Washington

Gran Vía 72. Phone: 541 7227. Fax: 547 5199. Price: Pts.14000 ($112) without breakfast. All major cards. 120 rooms. (A1).

A few steps from Plaza de España. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Roma hotels

Ferðir

Accademia

Piazza Accademia di San Luca 75. Phone: 6992 2607. Fax: 678 5897. Price: L.210000 ($133) with breakfast. All major cards. 58 rooms. (C2).

Centrally located, af few steps from the Trevi fountain. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Campo de’Fiori

Via del Biscione 6. Phone: 687 4886 & 654 0865. Price: L.150000 ($95) with breakfast. All major cards. 27 rooms. (B3).

Small and cosy hotel in the old center. It is on an alley leading off the market square of Campo de’Fiori, 10 meters from the square.

There is no lift, but a nice roof garden with views to all directions. Breakfast is served in a mirrored room in the cellar, a romantic mock-up of an ancient temple.

Room no. 106 is rather large, with a high ceiling, strangely romantically furnished with exposed brickwork and roofstones over the bathroom and corridor. A brick arch frames the bed. The bathroom is small, nicely tiled and well outfitted, with a shower closet. There is neither a TV set nor a direct phone line to the outside.

Cardinal

Via Giulia 62. Phone: 654 2710. Price: L.240000 ($152) with breakfast. All major cards. 73 rooms. (B3).

Old palace from 1400 built around a court on the well known pedestrian Via Giulia near Tevere river, loaded with antiques. Once it was a city courthouse.

The public rooms are obtrusively wallpapered in mysterious and cardinal red alternating with exposed brick and stone from Forum Romanum, especially behind the original bar.

Room no. 216 had become rather tired, with flaky wallpaper. It is big, with antique and respectable furniture. A private writing room is in front of the bedroom.

Carriage

Via delle Carrozze 36. Phone: 679 4106 & 679 3152. Fax: 678 8279. Price: L.230000 ($145) with breakfast. All major cards. 27 rooms. (C2).

Endearing small hotel, well situated near the beginning of The Spanish Steps in a street running parallel to Via Condotti. It is not easily recognised from the outside, in spite of being only 100 meters from the Steps.

It is a human hotel with lots of antiques. Among them is a hotel bar converted from a 17th Century church altar. The staff was exemplary.

Room no. 102 is well endowed with epoch furniture, including a triangular wardrobe, a beautiful writing cabinet, and an antique telephone. The bathroom is fully tiled and was in good working condition.

Cesàri

Via di Pietra 89a. Phone: 679 2386 & 684 0632. Fax: 679 0882. Price: L.145000 ($92) with breakfast. All major cards. 50 rooms. (C3).

Historic hotel near the parliament and Piazza Colonna, 10 meters from the Corso traffic artery. It has been continuously a hotel for almost three centuries and sports a special licence from the pope, dated in 1787.

Garibaldi and Mazzini, heroes of the independence movement, stayed here, also well known writers. At that time it was one of the best places in town. Now it is one of the cheapest of those who got through the needle’s eye of this database.

Room no. 20 is simple, with linoleum on the floor and old furniture, somewhat skewed. Everything is clean though and in working condition, except for the air condition and the spring bed. A tiny bathroom is adequate.

Colosseum

Via Sforza 10. Phone: 482 7228 & 482 7312. Fax: 482 7285. Price: L.175000 ($110) with breakfast. All major cards. 49 rooms. (D3).

A relatively modern building 200 meters from the Santa Maria Maggiore church and near the central railway station.

A fine sitting room adjoins the lobby. The view from the upper floors includes the famous Colosseum.

Room no. 74 is very small, but has the addition of a balcony with chairs, a table and a good view. The quality furniture includes a secretary desk. There is no TV set.

Columbus

Via della Conzialiazione 33. Phone: 686 5435. Fax: 686 4874. Price: L.230000 ($145) with breakfast. All major cards. 115 rooms. (B2).

Cardinal’s palace, Palazzo dei Penitenzieri, and temporarily a monastery, now a hotel, stern and aloof on the outside. It is very well situated for those who are mainly interested in St Peter’s (San Pietro) and the Vatican. It is on the main street leading up to the Piazza San Pietro, just 150 meters from the piazza.

The 15th century palace was built for cardinal Domenico della Rovera, who later became Pope Julian II. It has much of the original furnishings and wall paintings in the drawing rooms behind the lobby. Breakfast was as ancient as the sour waiter. The front desk staff was efficient.

Room no. 446 is ample with choice furnishings in antique style, with leaded window panes, an exquisite carpet and soft wallpaper. The bathroom is completely tiled, with old equipment in perfect condition.

Condotti

Via Mario de’Fiori 37. Phone: 679 4661 & 679 0484. Fax: 679 0457. Price: L.225000 ($142) with breakfast. All major cards. 19 rooms. (C2).

A preferred hotel of ours, a very small and an unobtrusive hotel in a pedestrian street in the fashion shops district below The Spanish Steps, 200 meters from them.

It has recently been completely renovated and has moved up our ratings list. The staff was friendly and knew the answers to our questions.

Room no. 102 is big and cosy, with modern decor in blue cloth, pink plastic and bright pine, divided by a wardrobe into a sleeping part and a sitting part with a deep sofa. Everything in the room and bathroom was in mint condition and very clean.

De la Ville

Via Sistina 69. Phone: 67 331. Fax: 678 4213. Price: L.500000 ($316) with breakfast. All major cards. 192 rooms. (C2).

One of the best known luxury hotels in Rome, conveniently located above the Spanish Steps. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Duca d’Alba

Via Leonina 14. Phone: 484 471 & 484 712. Fax: 464 840. Price: L.190000 ($120) with rather good breakfast. All major cards. 25 rooms. (D3).

Small and cosy hotel with a modern look in an old building on a small square in the district Suburra, the ancient slum adjoining the Fori Imperiali, 500 meters from the ruins. This central district resembles a village.

Room no. 201 is beautifully designed in green shades, with quality furniture and soft wallpaper, sparkling of freshness. The air condition is unusually efficient and the bathroom very good.

Fontana

Piazza di Trevi 96. Phone: 678 6113 & 679 1056. Price: L.200000 ($126) without breakfast. All major cards. 28 rooms. (C3).

A 13th C. monastery opposite the Trevi fountain. It does not advertise its existence as the tiny entrance is unobtrusively marked with the letters HF.

Many rooms have a nice view to the fountain and the tourist horde. They are rather noisy for a prolonged stay. There is a roof garden. Front service is excellent.

Room no. 207 is small but clean, with greenish blue flower wallpaper and steel furniture. The small bathroom is well equipped. The view to the fountain is breathtaking. The din from it echoed in the ceiling when the window was open. The phone does not have a direct line to the outside.

Forum

Via Tor de’Conti 25. Phone: 679 2446. Fax: 678 6479. Price: L.330000 ($208) with breakfast. All major cards. 81 rooms. (D3).

Dignified hotel just above Fori Imperiali with a view over the ancient Forum Romanum up to the imperial Capitolum hill.

It is a Renaissance palace built of stones from the Forum. Downstairs there are some beautiful saloons in British Edwardian style. The top floor has a breakfast room with views. Service is good.

Room no. 205 is big and nice, with a real writing table, an easy chair, parquet floor, fine small rugs, bright walls with antique paintings. The bathroom is well fitted out.

Gregoriana

Via Gregoriana 18. Phone: 679 4269. Fax: 678 4258. Price: L.240000 ($152) with breakfast. No cards accepted. 19 rooms. (C2).

One of our favorities, a stylish and tasteful hotelet in an old convent in a side street leading off the top of The Spanish Steps, 200 meters from the Steps. It is so popular that booking far in advance is recommended.

It is the home of discerning fashion models when shows are in season. The hotel itself sparkles with cleanliness and comfort. The rooms are marked with letters, not with numbers.

Room F is very relaxing, light and airy, with a balcony overlooking the quiet private garden. Furnishings are matching in pale red. There are bamboo chairs, a writing cabinet, a rocking chair and a thick carpet. The bathroom is big, with soft and flowery wallpapers, even over the bathtub.

Hassler – Villa Medici

Piazza Trinità de’Monti. Phone: 678 2651. Fax: 678 9991. Price: L.590000 ($372) without breakfast. All major cards. 100 rooms. (C2).

One of the top hotels in the world, proudly standing at the top of The Spanish Steps, beside the Trinità de’Monti church, one of the landmarks of Rome. The hotel of spacious rooms is of medium size.

It is decorated with immaculate taste, quiet as a country mansion in the center of a world city. It is almost too relaxed as it took a lot of time to deliver the baggage to the room. Breakfast is served in a top floor restaurant with breathtaking views.

Room no. 523 is one of the finest lodgings we have tested, almost an apartment. It has an anteroom, a giant bathroom and a big bedroom, all in bright colors. Former times are reflected in beams and pillars and in murals above the beds and in the bathroom. Mirrors are everywhere, the carpets are thick, as are the towels and the bathrobes.

Inghilterra

Via Bocca di Leone 14. Phone: 672 166. Fax: 684 0828. Price: L.340000 ($215) without breakfast. All major cards. 105 rooms. (C2).

Traditional hotel of writers and the intelligenzia since 1850 just below The Spanish Steps on a small square in a pedestrian part of the fashion district. H. C. Andersen, Anatole France, Earnest Hemingway, Henry James, Alec Guinness and many others stayed here.

It has been carefully renovated and its many antiques have been preserved.

Room no. 138 is rather small, well equipped, with soft wallpapers, dissimilar and relaxing furniture. The bathroom is marbled and well appointed, including a bathrobe.

Madrid

Via Mario de’Fiori 95. Phone: 699 1511. Fax: 679 1653. Price: L.210000 ($133) with breakfast. All major cards. 19 rooms. (C2).

A tiny hotel a few steps from the Spanish Steps. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Majestic

Via Vittorio Veneto 50. Phone: 48 6841. Fax: 488 0984. Price: L.500000 ($316) with breakfast. All major cards. 88 rooms. (D2).

Probably the best hotel on the famous fashion street. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Margutta

Via Laurina 34. Phone: 322 3674. Price: L.134000 ($85) with breakfast. All major cards. 21 rooms. (C2).

Between Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Piccolo

Via dei Chiaviari 32. Phone: 654 2560. Price: L.85000 ($54) without breakfast. All major cards. 15 rooms. (C3).

Quaint and tiny hotel in the old center, midway between the squares Campo dei Fiori and Largo di Argentina.

There is no elevator and no breakfast. But it is the cheapest hotel in the city of those included in this database.

Room no. 8 is big, with an extra bed and a desk, tiled floor and rosy bedspreads. There is neither a TV set nor a direct phone line to the outside. The bathroom is fully tiled and quite well endowed.

Portoghesi

Via dei Portoghesi 1. Phone: 686 4231. Fax: 687 6976. Price: L.130000 ($82) with breakfast. All major cards. 27 rooms. (C2).

Well known hotel in the part of the old center, where the alleys are most narrow and twisted. It is 200 meters from Piazza Navona and beside the church of Sant’Antonio.

This is Renaissance Rome. One of the old towers of noblemen, Torre dei Frangipane, is opposite the hotel. To get to the breakfast room you have to exit the elevator at the top and continue up stairs on the outside of the house.

Room no. 83 is small, with weary furnishings, flowery wallpaper and a carpet on the floor. The price is the second lowest of the included hotels.

Raphaël

Largo Febo 2. Phone: 650 881. Fax: 687 8993. Price: L.390000 ($246) with breakfast. All major cards. 85 rooms. (B3).

A fine hotel patronised by members of the Italian parliament. It is situated just off the northern end of Piazza Navona, under police protection night and day. Many fallen angels lived there in the Dolce Vita years before the clean-up of Italian politics.

The quiet abode is hidden behind a cover of luxuriant foliage, a real oasis in a tiny square with trees. It has atmosphere and style. It is full of antiques and modern paintings, even in the corridors. The roof-garden gives good views. The staff was exceptionally helpful.

Room no. 104 is very well furnished, with a parquet floor, abstract paintings, a giant cupboard and big windows overlooking the square. The bathroom was immaculate down to the bathrobes.

Santa Chiara

Via Santa Chiara 21. Phone: 687 2979. Fax: 687 3144. Price: L.250000 ($158) with breakfast. All major cards. 93 rooms. (C3).

Centrally located a few steps from Pantheon. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Scalinata di Spagna

Piazza Trinità de’Monti 17. Phone: 679 3006. Fax: 684 0896. Price: L.225000 ($142) with breakfast. All major cards. 14 rooms. (C2).

One of the smallest hotels we know of in the central city. It is just above the Spanish Steps opposite the famous Hassler Villa Medici hotel.

It is homely and beautifully furnished with antiques, resembling an old country inn.

Room no. 3 is small and amusingly skewed, endowed with antique and comfortable furniture, including a secretary desk. An old chandelier hangs from the ceiling which is painted with flowers. The plumbing is visible. The bathroom is small and includes a shower closet.

Senato

Piazza della Rotonda 73. Phone: 679 3231. Fax: 6994 0297. Price: L.190000 ($120) with breakfast. All major cards. 51 rooms. (C3).

Directly in front of the Pantheon. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Sole al Pantheon

Piazza della Rotonda 63. Phone: 678 0441. Fax: 684 0689. Price: L.250000 ($158) with breakfast. All major cards. 29 rooms. (C3).

A small hotel directly on the square in front of the Pantheon. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Teatro di Pompeo

Largo del Pallaro 8. Phone: 6830 0170. Fax: 6880 5531. Price: L.210000 ($133) with breakfast. All major cards. 12 rooms. (C3).

A tiny hotel a few steps from the corner of Corso Vittorio Emanuele og Corso del Rinascimento. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Torre Argentina

Corso Vittorio Emanuele 102. Phone: 683 3886. Fax: 6880 1641. Price: L.210000 ($133) with breakfast. All major cards. 52 rooms. (C3).

On the main throughfare in the old city. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Dublin amusements

Ferðir

Abbey Tavern

Howth. All major cards.

The best ballad pub for tourists is in a steep street leading up from the harbor in the northern suburb of Howth, where the city railway ends at the seashore. The program is performed in a big dining room behind the pub. Busloads of tourists sit there at a candlelight dinner before the memorable performance starts.

The musicians and singers cover a broad spectrum of Irish folk ballads, from several epochs, ancient and new. They play mainly fiddles and guitars. The music is historically correct and gets directly to the heart. This is first class and no make-believe.

Admission is £3, with dinner it is £28.

Baggot Inn

Lower Baggot Street. (B2).

The pub of rock n’ roll is a clean place in the street of music pubs.

It is rather delicate and bright by Irish standards, shaped in a U. There are mirrors on columns and low partitions at the walls, hung with paintings and photos of rock singers.

People come here to listen to the newest rock bands who have concerts on the 1st floor.

Bailey

4 Duke Street. (B2).

One of three historical pubs in a small street leading off Grafton Street. This one boasts of the door to 7 Eccles Street, where Leopold Bloom lived, the main character in Ulysses by James Joyce.

It is a refined pub with carpets on the floor and good furniture, including comfortable sofas and easy-chairs. Mirrors abound. The pub is bright and almost modern. There are large windows to the street, sitting areas in front and in back and a restaurant on the 1st floor.

Tourists and affluent shoppers make up the bulk of the clientele. Formerly it was a meeting place for writers and artists, journalists and students. The food is popular.

Brazen Head

20 Lower Bridge Street. (A1).

The oldest pub is inconspicuous down by the river Liffey where Lower Bridge Street runs down to it, about 500 meters from Christ Church. The license is from 1666. A pub has probably been in this place since the 13th C. It is best known for Robert Emmet organizing there the abortive uprising against the British in 1803.

The pub is in two sections with various corridors leading off a paved courtyard. The ceiling is low and the lighting is dim.

The clients are less noisy than in many other pubs, but still as convivial as other Irishmen. Poetry recitals and Irish music are held in honor here.

Davy Byrne’s

21 Duke Street. (B2).

The fashionable pub of the up and going young set in Dublin and one of three historical pubs in a small street leading off Grafton Street, well known for the Gorgonzola cheese and Burgundy wine that Leopold Bloom got here in the novel of Ulysses by James Joyce.

The furnishings are partly in a pre-war style, with paintings of known writers that lived at the start of the 20th C. A more modern section is at the back, resembling a cocktail area.

The clientele consists of well-dressed young people on their way up in business, along with similar types from the travelers’ brigade.

Doheny & Nesbitt

5 Lower Baggot Street. (B2).

A traditional and rather worn drinking pub of professionals in politics, in the middle of the music pubs of this street, leading off St Stephen’s Green, one of the famous pubs of Dublin.

It is small and dingy, with an ugly linoleum floor, and with torn advertising posters, advertising mirrors and large pottery on the walls. Mirrored partitions at the bar counter make the pub look even more crowded.

The clientele comes from the parliament and government buildings round the corner, politicians, journalists and officials.

Duke

9 Duke Street. (B2).

A fine Victorian pub in a small street of old pubs leading off Grafton Street, spacious and bright, with murals and less wood than usual.

A nice floor carpet at the entrance gives a tone of affluence. The bar chairs are upholstered, standing on a parquet floor. There is stained glass behind the bar. Sofas are on platforms at the walls and high bar-stools on the floor beneath the platforms.

Here are many suburbanites on a shopping trip, having a beer and a bite between walks. The price is relatively good, considering the quality and the cleanliness of the place.

Foley’s

Merrion Row. (B2).

A singing pub cum restaurant on the main street of music pubs.

It is spacious and bright, with a carpet on the floor and an exhibition of paintings on the walls, also busts of venerable gentlemen.

This is a nice place, with Irish ballads in the night and at Sunday noon. There is jazz on Sunday nights.

Horseshoe Bar

The Shelbourne Hotel, St Stephen’s Green. (B2).

The most famous hotel bar in Dublin, at the eastern end of the ground floor of the Shelbourne, very small and tightly packed.

Leather sofas line the walls. In front of them are circular tables with edge fillets. The horseshoe-shaped bar is in the center, surrounded with good stools. The ceiling is high and decorations are scant, but there is a lot of mirrors.

Affluent travelers come here, mainly Americans, as the bartenders know how to make cocktails. Also jeweled people who arrive in Jaguars and Mercedeses.

Keogh’s

McDaid’s

Harry Street. (B2).

The literary pub in the center, in a short street leading off Grafton Street, almost under the eaves of Westbury Hotel. Brendan Behan and other well-known writers sat here.

The decorations are beautiful, outside and inside. Very high street windows are partly stained. Decorative porcelain tiles are beneath pictures of Samuel Becket and other writers.

There is still some literary atmosphere here, as university teachers and students congregate here to follow the tradition.

Mulligan’s

8 Poolbeg Street. (B1).

The worn-out pub of journalists near the river docks, the offices of the daily papers and the Trinity University is one of the oldest in town, from 1782 and looks every year its age. It is mentioned in Dubliners by James Joyce.

The pub forms an U around a double bar and has a small room by the window at the opening of the U. The ceiling is low, the air is heavy and the visibility is scant. The furnishings are as worn as they can possibly be. There are two rooms behind the bar area, both of them quite inhospitable. The furniture is accidental, destitute and devoid of taste.

Many guests are deep in their drinks, having the excuse that they are getting the best beer in town. It flows in torrents here from morning into the night. Journalists come here, dock workers and students. The clientele combines with the furnishings to make quite an unforgettable atmosphere.

Neary’s

1 Chatham Street. (B2).

The theater pub is of course just behind the Gaiety theater. The main entrance of the theater and the back door of the pub are opposite each other, but he main entrance of the pub is on a side street of Grafton Street.

The pub is in two parts, rather small, with large mirrors. Quaint gas-lamps of wrought iron are on a pink bar counter of marble. A fine carpet is on the floor and thick cushions are on the chairs, as this is not a place for the riff-raff.

Some actors and musicians are in the otherwise mainly tourist clientele. Peter O’Toole is said to hold court here when he is in Dublin.

O’Donoghue’s

15 Merrion Row. (B2).

One of the most famous music pubs of Ireland, rather shady, specializing in ballads. It has been in the forefront of the revival of Irish ballads. The Dubliners started here.

It is small and dingy, with red and green neon lights on the bar wall above money notes from several continents. The walls are hung with old advertising mirrors.

Guests bring their guitars, as the music is not organized, but rather emanates from the grass-roots.

O’Neill’s

2 Suffolk Street. (B1).

Opposite St Andrews, convenient for Trinity College students, just 100 meters from its main entrance at College Green.

The emblem of the pub is a large clock over one of its Suffolk Street entrance. This is a large pub, clean, well furnished, with few decorations, but lots of seats.

The pub is popular, both with students and burghers. The attraction is not only the beer, but also the grub.

Old Stand

Exchequer Street. (A1).

The main sportsmen’s pub in the center, in a side street 100 meters from the Powerscourt shopping center.

It is rather bright and unusually spacious, clean and simple, with furnishings that have not yet become worn, except for the floor.

Sport enthusiasts congregate here, talking about racing or Irish football. Many of them have something to eat here.

Palace

21 Fleet Street. (B1).

A typical smoke-filled pub in a continuation of Temple Bar in the direction of Westmoreland Street, a neighbor of hotel Temple Bar.

Wood partitions with mirrors form compartments at the heavy counter, opposite the dignified bar furniture behind the counter. Behind the bar there is a sitting room with sofas and round coffee-tables.

There is a lot of drinking and still more of smoking. The place is frequented by workers and media people.

Stag’s Head

1 Dame Court. (A1).

The best pub grub in town is to be had at a beautiful old pub, which is difficult to find in an alley running parallel with Dame Street. Probably the most beautiful pub in the city center, it was restored to its present state at the end of the 19th C. Its life was recently saved by protection activists.

The style is Victorian, with large mirrors and an arcade over the bar, an old ceiling of wood, an impressive venison head above the central bar, mahogany tables with marble tops, stained windows and deeply green sofas. The cooking is simple and the food is tasty, boiled bacon and cauliflower, Irish stew, sandwiches and hamburgers with chips.

There is generally a crowd of well-dressed people, including lawyers.

Toner’s

139 Lower Baggot Street. (B2).

The main artists’ pub, 200 years old, more or less with the original furnishings and looking its age.

At the mahogany bar counter there are narrow, mirrored partitions. The bar wall has countless drawers from the time that the pub doubled as a grocery. Old books are above the drawers. A dominating tile decoration is at the end of the pub. Opposite the counter there is a glass cupboard with memorabilia.

Among the clientele are some convivial writers and people who like convivial writers.

Gaelic football

The most popular team sport in Ireland, a rough sport somewhere between rugby and soccer. When the final game is played in Croke Park in Dublin the home districts of the competitors are almost deserted.

Hurling is another popular sport, where the ball is hit by a club, played on the same fields as football.

Horse races are at Phoenix Park and there are good golf courses all over Ireland.

Market Arcade

(A1).

Tower

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Madrid restaurants

Ferðir

Ainhoa

Bárbara de Braganza 12. Phone: 308 6698. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.11000 ($88) for two. All major cards. (C1).

One of many Basque places, a modern and simple restaurant with classic cooking, situated in the north-eastern part of the center, near Paseo de Recoletos.

The dining room is partioned in two by a wooden grill and covered with mirrors on one side.

• Marmitako = pea soup with turnip, potato and tuna.

• Revuelto de pisto = scrambled eggs with chopped olives.

• Merluza a la parilla = grilled hake.

• Rape a la koskera = turbot with green bean sauce.

• Tarta et truffa almondes = almond cake.

• Idiázabal = Basque cheese.

Al Mounia

Recoletos 5. Phone: 435 0828. Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday. Price: Pts.9700 ($78) for two. All major cards. (C2).

The best Moorish restaurant in Spain is in central Madrid, near Paseo de Recoletos, combining cooking and atmosphere.

It is divided into a few rooms decorated from top to bottom in Moorish style, evoking memories from Alhambra in Granada and Mezquita in Córdoba. Guests sit in sofas at low sofa-tables and enjoy especially good service.

• Al Mounia panache = pancakes of the house.

• Brochette khefta = skewered meat balls.

• Chicken with almonds and meat fumé.

• Grilled lamb.

• Cordero mechoui = oven-braised lamb.

• Taginé = minced chicken.

• Alcuzcuz = Maghreb hash.

• Almond sweets.

• Mint tea.

Asador de Aranda

Preciados 44. Phone: 547 2156. Hours: Closed Monday dinner. Price: Pts.7600 ($61) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Castilian restaurant in a pedestrian area around the main department stores in the center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Bajamar

Gran Vía 78. Phone: 548 4818. Fax: 559 1326. Price: Pts.15000 ($120) for two. All major cards. (A1).

The best-known seafood restaurant in town, receiving airborne fish every day, popular with tourists and businessmen, in a basement on the corner of Plaza de España and Gran Vía.

An aquarium with lobsters awaits customers when the have descended the staircase. The dining room is rather cool, sheathed in bright wood Scandinavian style, like a Norwegian hotel from 1965.

• Steamed lobster.

• Dublin Bay prawns in garlic oil.

• Baked apple.

• Torrija de la casa = rice pudding with cinnamon.

Botín

Cuchilleros 17. Phone: 366 4217. Fax: 366 8494. Price: Pts.9800 ($78) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Down the steps from the southwestern corner of Plaza Mayor, 100 meters down the street on the left side, Antigua Casa Sobrino de Botín, founded in 1725, one of the very oldest restaurants in the world. This was the venue of the final chapter of Hemingway’s rising sun, not surprisingly since he was a regular here. The place is also mentioned in his story on an afternoon death.

It was originally only on the ground floor but has been expanded into two upper floors. It is not only popular with tourists but also with locals. The tavern has old and quaint furnishings, including porcelain tiles on the walls and marble in the floors. The kitchen oven has been in use since the start of the restaurant.

• Black sausages Burgos.

• Ham on melon.

• Cordero asado = braised lamb.

• Cochinillo asado = braised baby pork.

• Cheese cake with raspberries.

Buey II

Plaza de la Marina Española 1. Phone: 541 3041. Price: Pts.7000 ($56) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Near the royal palace and the Sabatine gardens. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Café de Oriente

Plaza de Oriente 2. Phone: 541 3974. Fax: 547 7707. Price: Pts.13000 ($104) for two. All major cards. (A2).

One of the very best restaurants in central Madrid, a Basque one, run by Chef Bernardo Santos, influenced by Nouvelle Cuisine. It is opposite the Royal Palace, really two places in one as you have to enter an alley to get into the better one on the left side.

The solemn dining room is wealthy and homey at the same time. Service is excellent.

• Lobster salad.

• Asparagus mousse with sea lamprey and seaweed.

• Pigeon breast.

• Sliced beef fillet.

• Nougat ice-cream flambé with timbale.

• Black-currant sorbet with blackberry sauce.

Casa Gallega

Plaza San Miguel 8. Phone: 547 3055. Price: Pts.8000 ($64) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Galician cooking a few steps from Plaza Major and Plaza de la Villa. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Casa Lucio

Cava Baja 35. Phone: 365 3252. Fax: 366 4866. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch. Price: Pts.10200 ($82) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Near the far end of the restaurant mile leading off Plaza Mayor into Cuchilleros and Cava Baja, frequented by politicians and artists, bullfighters and television people.

Its two storeys are always full to the brim. Service is good for the regulars, less so for the others.

• Melón con jamón = ham on melon.

• Jamón de Jabugó = Jabugó ham.

• Shells.

• Revuelto de patatas con huevo = omelet with chips.

• Lenguado de la casa = sole.

• Solemillo = beef steak.

• Perdices = partridge marinated in vinaigrette.

• Arroz con leche = Milky rice pudding with caramel crust.

Casa Marta

Santa Clara 10. Phone: 548 2825. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.6000 ($48) for two. All major cards. (A2).

A few steps from the opera and Plaza de Orientes. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Casa Paco

Puerta Cerrada 11. Phone: 366 3166. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.9200 ($74) for two. No cards. (A2).

On the restaurant mile leading off Plaza Mayor along Cuchilleros and Cava Baja, a celebrity eatery with extremely simple furnishings.

The main decoration are the endless pictures covering a good part of the walls of many small dining rooms. Theater personalities frequent this place for beef and salad. Coffee is not served.

• Jamón serrano = ham.

• Cochinillo asado = braised pork.

• Solomillo de buey = beef filet.

• Flan = fruit flan.

• Tarta Santiago = tart of the house.

Club 31

Alcalá 58. Phone: 531 0092. Price: Pts.14000 ($112) for two. All major cards. (C2).

One of the best restaurants in Madrid, a kind of a ladies’ club at dinner and a gentlemen’s club at lunch, is near the corner of Alcalá and Plaza de la Independencia. Ángel Paracuellos practices classic cuisine.

It is a large, dark brown room that would be bare if it were not full of noisy people all the time. The furnishings are unusual. A large carpet is on one wall, another is of cork and the third of wood. Lots of waiters keep milling around.
• Souffle de rodaballo con bacon a las finas herbas = turbot mousse.

• Cacaroles de borgona con foie en nido de patata asado = snails with goose liver on a baked potato.

• Rodaballo al horno con setas = turbot with mushroom.

• Pata azulón a la naranja y compota de membrillo = duck in orange.

• Perdiz asada en hoja de vid = partridge with baked potato.

• Venado estilo australio, ciruelas, parsas y pinones = venison Australian style, with prunes and raisins.

• Crepes de manzana al calvados con sorbete al cava = flambéed pancakes with apple filling.

• Nuestra tarta milhojas = puff pastry.

Comedor

Montalbán 9. Phone: 531 6968. Fax: 531 6191. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: Pts.9600 ($77) for two. All major cards. (C2).

BetweenPlaza de Cibeles and Parque del Buen Retiro. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Cuevas de Luis Candelas

Cuchilleros 1. Phone: 366 5428. Fax: 366 1880. Price: Pts.9500 ($76) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Restaurant in old Madrid style with musicians, on the steps leading down from Plaza Mayor. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Don Pelayo

Alcalá 33. Phone: 531 0031. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (B2).

On the main street leading to Plaza Puerta del Sol. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Errota Zar

Jovellanos 3. Phone: 531 2564. Fax: 531 2564. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.9500 ($76) for two. All major cards. (B2).

One of the best of many good Basque restaurants in Madrid is on the short walk between the parliament building and hotel Suecia. The cooking is in traditional Basque style.

It is in a long, green room where guests sit in noble chairs at tables clothed in green linen.

• Gratinado de ostras sobre roseta de tomate a la muselina de aromáticos = gratinated oysters with tomato.

• Milhofas de paloma y foie a la gelatina de frambuesa = warm pigeon liver and duck liver in gelatine.

• Solomillo con foie-gras a las uvas = beef filet with goose liver.

• Ragout de cievres = venison in thick prune sauce.

• Bacalao al pil-pil = salt-cod.

• Suprema de perdiz en lecho de col fresada = partridge breast.

• Pudding de arroz con leche a la crema de cirulas farsas = rice pudding with plum puré.

• Charlota de peras con caramelo al Williams = pear tart with caramel sauce.

• Idiázabal = Basque cheese.

Espejo

Paseo de Recoletos 31. Phone: 308 2347. Fax: 593 2223. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (C1).

Directly on Paseo de Recoletos, one of the most beautiful restaurants in Madrid, a lively place in turn-of-the-century Art Nouveau style.

Lots of mirrors, porcelain tiles and leaded lampshades are the main attraction. The service is also very good. The cooking hails from Navarra and the Basque country.

• Espárragos Navarra = asparagus marinated in oil.

• Ensalade de langosta, melón y salmón ahumado = a salad of shrimp, melon, smoked salmon and small tomatoes.

• Escalopines de cordero = slices of leg of lamb.

• Pato e la laranja = duck in orange.

• Profiteroles de nata con chocolate = puff pastry with cream and hot chocolate.

• Flan al caramelo = caramel pudding.

Esteban

Cava Baja 36. Phone: 365 9091. Fax: 366 9391. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Near the far end of the restaurant mile leading off Plaza Mayor into Cuchilleros and Cava Baja, frequented by journalists, media people and theater people.

Everybody seems to know each other. People amble between tables exchanging greetings just as at a party. The furnishings are old and dark and amusingly accidental. Old beams are much in evidence. The cooking is very old-fashioned.

• Alcachofas con almejas = artichokes with shells in a soup.

• Pimientos rellenos de bacalao = salt cod in paprika.

• Solomillo de corzo = venison filet.

• Rabo de toro estofado = ox tail dressing.

• Cordero asada = braised lamb.

• Torrijas de leche frita = rice pudding.

Grillade

Jardines 3. Phone: 521 2217. Fax: 531 3127. Price: Pts.8000 ($64) for two. All major cards. (B2).

In a short street between Gran Vía and Plaza Puerta del Sol. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Gure-Etxea

Plaza de la Paja 12. Phone: 365 6149. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.10000 ($80) for two. All major cards. (A3).

A Basque dining room situated in a half-timbered house on a small church square just west off the Cava Baja restaurant street.

The quality furnishings fit the excellent service and the premium cooking.

• Piperrada vaxca = omelet, green peppers and ham.

• Shrimp in crab soup.

• Besugo al estilo de Beneo = whole sea bream in oil.

• Merluza al horno = baked hake.

• Leche frita = pan-fried milk pudding.

• Flan de la casa = caramel pudding.

Ingenio

Leganitos 10. Phone: 541 9133. Fax: 547 3534. Hours: Closed Sunday dinner. Price: Pts.6100 ($49) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Between Gran Vía and the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Julián de Tolosa

Cava Baja 18. Phone: 365 8210. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.13000 ($104) for two. All major cards. (A3).

On the main restaurant street in the old center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Mentidero de la Villa

Santo Tomé 6. Phone: 308 1285. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (C1).

Restaurant with old furnishings near Museo Arquelógico Nacional and Paseo de Recoletos. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Mesón Gregorio III

Bordadores 5. Phone: 542 5956. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: Pts.8200 ($66) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Between the opera and Plaza Puerta del Sol. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Mi Pueblo

Costanilla de Santiago 2. Phone: 548 2073. Hours: Closed Sunday dinner & Monday. Price: Pts.6300 ($50) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Near Plaza Mayor. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Ópera de Madrid

Amnistía 5. Phone: 559 5092. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.7600 ($61) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Near the opera and Plaza de Orientes. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Paradis Madrid

Marqués de Cubas 14. Phone: 429 7303. Fax: 429 3295. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: Pts.10000 ($80) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A few steps from Plaza Canovás del Castillo and Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Platerías

Plaza Santa Ana 11. Phone: 429 7048. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch & Sunday. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (B2).

On a main square in old Madrid. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Posada de la Villa

Cava Baja 9. Phone: 366 1880. Fax: 366 1880. Price: Pts.9800 ($78) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Antique restaurant in Castilian style on the main restaurant street in the old center. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Rasputín

Yeseros 2. Phone: 366 3962. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: Pts.6400 ($51) for two. All major cards. (A3).

Russian restaurant near the royal palace. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Robata

Reina 31. Phone: 521 8528. Fax: 531 3063. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: Pts.7000 ($56) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A Japanese restaurant near Gran Vía. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Schotis

Cava Baja 11. Phone: 365 3230. Hours: Closed Sunday evening. Price: Pts.7800 ($62) for two. All major cards. (A3).

On the restaurant mile leading off Plaza Mayor into Cuchilleros and Cava Baja, specializing in beef steaks served on sizzling bricks.

It is long and narrow, with large paintings covering the walls, filled with local customers.

• Revuelto de trigueros = scrambled egg with green peas.

• Tomato salad.

• Merluza = hake.

• Solomillo = beef steak on brick.

• Flan de huevo = egg pudding.

• Two ice-creams with pineapple and whipped cream.

Sixto Gran Mesón

Cervantes 28. Phone: 429 2255. Fax: 523 3174. Hours: Closed Sunday dinner. Price: Pts.9000 ($72) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Castilian restaurant near Plaza Canovás del Castillo. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Taberna del Alabardero

Felipe V 6. Phone: 547 2577. Fax: 547 7707. Price: Pts.10300 ($82) for two. All major cards. (A2).

Opposite the royal palace, a restaurant in 19th C. style, probably too elegant to be called a tavern. It has spawned descendants abroad.

The best atmosphere is in the innermost room, furnished with antiques. The cooking is a combination of Modern French and Basque, offering some imaginative courses.

• Tomatoes with crab filling and egg sauce.

• Paprika with wild mushroom and spinach filling and tomato sauce.

• Bacalao “Club Ranero” = salt-cod.

• Corazón de solomillo de toro = beef filet.

• Grouse with potato chips.

• Duck slices in orange sauce.

• Rice pudding.

• Melone and cream soup with raspberries.

Toja

Siete de Julio 3. Phone: 366 4664. Fax: 366 5230. Price: Pts.10000 ($80) for two. All major cards. (A2).

On the northwestern corner of Plaza Mayor, a popular and lively tavern offering Galician food.

The simple and large dining place is equally popular with locals and foreigners.

• King prawns in egg sauce.

• Crab.

• Shellfish.

• Merluza gallega = grilled hake with white potatoes.

• Grilled lamb shoulder.

• Tarta Toya = Napoleon pastry.

• Strawberries with cream.

Valle

Humilladero 4. Phone: 366 9025. Hours: Closed Monday dinner & Sunday. Price: Pts.7000 ($56) for two. All major cards. (A3).

A few steps from Descalzas Reales. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Viridiana

Juan de Mena 14. Phone: 523 4478. Fax: 532 4274. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: Pts.13000 ($104) for two. All major cards. (C2).

Exceptional cooking at a relatively economical restaurant between Plaza de la Lealtad and Parque del Buen Retiro. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Zalachaín

Álvarez de Baena 4. Phone: 561 4840. Fax: 561 4732. Hours: Closed Saturday lunch, Sunday. Price: Pts.19000 ($152) for two. All major cards

We include Zalachaín even if it is not in the city center, near the corner of Paseo de la Castellana and Maria de Molina. It is the best restaurant in Madrid and one of the top three in Spain, a Basque restaurant as the other two. It combines content with form, cuisine with ambience and service. A tie for gentlemen is obligatory.

The dining area is in a few venerable rooms of hardwood, a few tables in each, loaded with exquisite crystal and porcelain. The service matches the dignified atmosphere. The cooking of Chef Benjamín Urdáin is in a Basque version of French Nouvelle Cuisine.

• Ensalada de gambas con maíz dulce al sorbete de tomates = shrimp salad with sweet maize on tomato sorbet.

• Raviolis rellenos de setas, rufas y foie gras = mushrooms and goose liver in ravioli.

• Bacalao Tellagorri = salted cod.

• Pato azulón al chartreuse verde = duck in liqueur.

• Ragoût de bogavante con alcachofas = lobster ragout with artichokes.

• Escalopes de lubina con salsa de almejas = sea bass fillets with shellfish sauce.

• Biscuit glacé con chocolate fundido = coffee ice with chocolate sauce.

• Frutas del tiempo con sorbete = season’s berries with sorbet.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Roma restaurants

Ferðir

Agata e Romeo

Via Carlo Alberto 45. Phone: 733 298 & 446 5842. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.140000 ($88) for two. All major cards. (E3).

Classy restaurant 200 meters from the Santa Maria Maggiore church, near the main railway station. Agata Paricella is in charge of the kitchen and Romeo Caraccia directs casually in the dining rooms, hands in pockets (his own).

The restaurant is small and refined with good and dignified service. The guests sit in wicket chairs at well spaced tables in nooks between arches under vaults. A good wine list. Specialises in Roman cooking, such as innards.

• Zuppa di scarola e borlotti = salad and bean soup.

• Rigatoni alla pagliata = pasta tubes with tomato sauce, parmesan and kidneys.

• Merluzzo con zabaione = poached cod in red wine sauce.

• Agnello di Abruzzo = rack of lamb with potatoes and mushrooms.

• Mousse de ricotta con salsa di canelle = cheese soufflé with cinnamon.

Innards:

• Animelle = sweetbreads.

• Cervella = brains.

• Coratella = lamb lungs.

• Fegato = liver.

• Pagliata = kidneys.

• Rognoni = kidneys.

• Trippa = tripe.

Ai Tre Scalini

Via di Santissimi Quattro 30. Phone: 70 96 309 & 70 02 835. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.160000 ($101) for two. All major cards. (D4).

Small and distinguished top-class restaurant, 200 meters from Colosseum. It combines traditional cooking with innovations. The owner-chef is a construction engineer, Rosanna Dupré, designing a new menu each day.

Unassuming on the outside, comfortable on the inside, with a big cupboard for glassware, somber paintings, parquet floors and an old chandelier. Ms. Dupré experiments with marinated fish, such as Spigola al sale.

• Spigola al sale = lightly salted, raw, delicate slices of sea bass.

• Ravioli al radiccho = radishes in pasta envelopes.

• Filetto di manzo en crusta = spiced veal with broccoli in crust.

• Piccioni farciti = stuffed duck.

• Spume de melone = melon cake with marzipan cream.

Alberto Ciarla

Piazza di San Cosimato 40. Phone: 58 18 668 & 68 84 377. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.250000 ($158) for two. All major cards. (B4).

One of the main gourmet paradises in the city, heavily decorated in an eclectic style, at the Piazza San Cosimato in the upwards mobile district of Trastevere on the left bank of the river Tevere. It carries the name of the chef-owner.

The room is high and dark, in blue shades. Mirrors at both ends make the place unreal and a few aquariums make it lika a luxury submarine. Reality is closer in framed currency bills and certificates on the walls. Three-armed candle-stands decorate each table. It specialises in gastronomic menus, such as an Etruscan menu.

• Insalata di gamberi = lemon marinated shrimp with mushrooms.

• Bomolotti allo sparacreddo = giant pasta tubes with a strong broccoli & seafood sauce.

• Zuppa di pasta e fagioli ai frutti di mare = pasta soup with shellfish and red beans.

• Filetto di pesce alle erbe = sea trout with herbs.

• Frutti di sottobosco = blueberries with ice cream.

Andrea

Via Sardegna 28. Phone: 48 21 891 & 47 40 557. Hours: Closed Sunday & lunch Monday. Price: L.180000 ($114) for two. All major cards. (D2).

One of the top culinary addresses in Rome, in the splendid Ludovisi district of established wealth, just 100 meters from the Borghese gardens and just off the Via Veneto.

A Spartan place with greenish walls, pictures of carriages, big mirrors, marble floor, bamboo chairs and big chandeliers. Offers excellent cheeses.

• Tagliolini con porcini = pasta ribbons with boletus mushrooms.

• Linguine al nero di seppie = pasta threads with black octopus sauce.

• Rombo griglia = grilled brill.

• Scampi alla griglia = grilled prawns.

• Formaggi = cheese from the trolley.

• Fragoline di bosco con panna liquida = wild strawberries with cream.

Italian cheese:

• Bel paese = mild and soft cheese.

• Gorgonzola = rather soft and strong blue cheese.

• Grana = very hard cooking cheese.

• Mozzarella = rubbery young cheese.

• Parmiggiano = parmesan cheese, a type of grana.

• Pecorino = hard and strong Roman ewe cheese.

• Provolone = strong cheese.

• Ricotta = fresh ewe cheese.

• Taleggio = mild & creamy cheese.

Buco

Via Sant’Ignazio 8. Phone: 679 3298. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.90000 ($57) for two. All major cards. (C3).

Near the Pantheon. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Campana

Vicolo della Campana 18. Phone: 686 7820 & 687 5273. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.95000 ($60) for two. All major cards. (C2).

An inexpensive restaurant in the old center, 400 meters from the north end of Piazza Navona, with refreshingly well made Roman everyday food.

This is a simple and neutral place , bright and clean, with close tables and attentive waiters in perfect Italian style.

• Penne con carciofi = big pasta tubes with artichokes.

• Pappardelle in salsa lepre = broad pasta reams with hare sauce.

• Involtini di manzo con puré = skewered veal slices with mashed potatoes.

• Filetto di tacchino = turkey with mushrooms and two types of cream sauce.

• Fragole di bosco con panna = wild strawberries with cream.

Roman cuisine:

• Abbacchio = baby lamb.

• Alla romana = (usually) with tomato and sometimes red wine.

• Asparagus.

• Mint.

• Pecorino cheese.

• Ricotta cheese.

• Stracciatella = egg and cheese soup.

• Trippa = veal tripe.

Camponeschi

Piazza Farnese 50. Phone: 687 4927. Fax: 686 5244. Hours: Closed lunch & Sunday. Price: L.175000 ($110) for two. All major cards. (B3).

Directly in front of Palazzo Farnese. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Cannavota

Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano 20. Phone: 775 007. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: L.65000 ($41) for two. All major cards. (E4).

A good restaurant with low prices, beautifully designed, on the square in front of the cathedral San Giovanni in Laterano. It is the best known seafood restaurant in Rome, offering traditional cooking.

The interior resembles a mountain hotel. Massive wooden columns and beams and panels, high chairs, lots of paintings and pictures.

• Fritto misto di mare = deep fried seafood with lemon.

• Linguine alla reviglio = spaghetti with tomato shrimp sauce.

• Risotto alla Cannavota = rice with tomato, cream and lobster.

• Filetto di tacchino = turkey breast under a roof of mushrooms and cheese.

• Scaloppe alla verbena = veal slices under a roof of mushrooms and cheese.

• Insalata mista = mixed salad.

• Macedonia di frutta = marinated mixed fruit.

Roman seafood:

• Antipasto di mare = cold seafood platter.

• Fritto misto di mare = deep fried seafood with lemon.

• Insalata di mare = seafood salad.

• Risotto di frutti di mare = fried rice with seafood.

• Zuppa di pesce alla romana = shellfish soup.

Cesare

Via Crescenzio 13. Phone: 686 1227 & 686 1912. Hours: Closed Sunday evening and Monday. Price: L.110000 ($69) for two. All major cards. (B2).

Behind the Palace of Justice and the Mausoleum of Hadrian, a very Roman restaurant, convenient for visitors to St Peter’s and the Vatican museums.

A long row of a few rooms connected with arches and exaggerated in length by a mirror at the end. Wooden panelling and bright walls. A noisy and a happy place frequented by regulars.

• Breasola = dry salt meat with grana cheese with oil and lemon, similar to prosciutto.

• Penne al’arrabiata = short pasta tubes with tomato, lobster and pepper sauce.

• Saltimbocca alla romana = thin veal and ham slices, fried in butter and then cooked in Marsala wine.

• Fragolini con panna = wild strawberries with cream.

Cesarina

Via Piemonte 109. Phone: 488 0828 & 460 828. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.140000 ($88) for two. All major cards. (D1).

Big and popular in country style with Bologna cuisine, in the refined Ludovisi district to the west of Via Veneto, 200 meters from the Borghese gardens and 500 meters from Via Veneto.

Brick arches divide the restaurant in sections. Lots of paintings decorate the walls. Clients talk business loudly, Italian style.

• Mortadella = unsalted pork sausages Bologna style, cooked in white wine.

• Carpaccio = thin slices of raw beef with oil, lemon and parmesan cheese.

• Tagliatelle bolognese = egg pasta with Bologna sauce, made of ground beef and pork, mushrooms, tomato, vegetables, spices and garlic.

• Filetto di bue Toscana = steak with lemon.

• Semifreddo Cesarina = ice cream with pudding and chocolate sauce.

Checchino dal 1887

Via Monte Testaccio 30. Phone: 574 6318. Fax: 574 3816. Hours: Closed Sunday dinner & Monday. Price: L.155000 ($98) for two. All major cards. (C5).

One of the few real gourmet restaurants in Rome, between the Tevere river and Stazione Ostia. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Convivio

Via dell’Orso 44. Phone: 686 9432. Fax: 686 9432. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.160000 ($101) for two. All major cards. (C2).

Between Piazza Navona and the Tevere river. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Costanza

Piazza del Paradiso 65. Phone: 686 1717 & 654 1002. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.100000 ($63) for two. All major cards. (C3).

Steak and seafood restaurant with traditional, solid Italian cooking in an alley just 100 meters from the Campo de’Fiori square in the old city center.

Unassuming as it is on the outside it is as exciting on the inside. The main room is a romantic cave with vaulted ceiling and antiques in niches, such as amphorae and column stumps. Illumination is indirect and stylish. On the side there is a panelled room with a fireplace.

• Crepes funghi e tartufi = very hot pancakes with mushrooms and the expensive white truffles grown in Northern Italy.

• Entrecote griglia = grilled beef.

• Asparagi = fresh asparagus in oil.

• Tiramisu = Venetian chocolate pudding with coffee chocolate.

Tartufi: The Italian type of tuber, the underground mushrooms dug up with the help of trained dogs and pigs. This type is white and almost as expensive as the French black ones. They have a pungent aroma and are always used uncooked, usually in small amounts with some other food. Tartufi is one of the things essentially Italian.

Crisciotti

Via del Boschetto 30. Phone: 474 4770. Hours: Closed Saturday. Price: L.100000 ($63) for two. No cards. (D3).

Typical, busy and devoid of tourists, in a side street 100 meters from Via Nazionale and 600 meters from Fori Imperiali. The food is simple, typical Roman fare, based on vegetable soups, mixed salads and fresh fruits of the season.

Local regulars sit in three small rooms under rustic decorations, where brown paintings hang on red-painted walls above heavy stone masonry. Fish are on view in a big refrigerator of glass.

• Zuppa did verdura = a filling soup of colorful vegetables.

• Agnello = lamb straight, with nothing on the side.

• Insalata mista = mixed salad.

• Frutta de stagione = fresh fruits of the season.

Galeassi

Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere 3. Phone: 580 3775 & 580 9898. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.95000 ($60) for two. All major cards. (B4).

On the main square in the fashionable Trastevere district, not as expensive as neighbouring Sabatini, but also specialising in seafood.

This is a clean and cosy place with dark panelling and dark wooden ceiling, but otherwise bright. The smaller streetside room is the better one.

• Fettucini con funghi porcini = Broad pasta reams with boletus mushrooms.

• Risotto creme di scampi = rice with scampi chunks.

• Mazzancolle al forno = king prawns oven-fried in the shell.

• Saltimbocca alla romana con funghi = veal and ham slices with sage and mushrooms.

• Ananas = fresh pineapple.

• Macedonia di frutta = fresh fruit salad.

Shrimp: There are several Italian types of shrimp:

• Gamberi.

• Scampi.

• Gamberoni (big).

• Mazzancolle (very big).

Galeone

Piazza San Cosimato 27. Phone: 580 9009. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: L.160000 ($101) for two. All major cards. (B4).

Interestingly decorated seafood restaurant on the San Cosimato market square in the Trastevere district, which is the part of the city center on the other side of Tevere river.

It has a high wicket ceiling. The guests sit in carved chairs on a stone floor under leaded window panes and wooden columns and beams.

• Linguine alle vongole = pasta threads with small shells.

• Tagliolini all’aragosta = pasta reams with crab chunks and tomato sauce.

• Spigola alla griglia = freshly grilled sea bass with lemon.

• Misto di frutti di bosco = fresh wild berries, including wild strawberries.

Italian fish:

• Bonito = tuna.

• Merlano = whiting.

• Merluzzo = cod.

• Rombo = turbot and brill.

• Rospo = monkfish.

• Sogliola = sole.

• Spada = swordfish.

• Spigola = sea bass.

Giarrosto Toscano

Via Campania 29. Phone: 482 1899 & 482 3835. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: L.140000 ($88) for two. All major cards. (D2).
An agreeable place beautifully designed in a basement opposite the Borghese gardens, about 100 meters from the upper end of Via Veneto. It offers Tuscany cooking from the Florence area.

Arches and vaults divide the restaurant into several parts. The walls are brightly panelled all the way up to the arches. Where panel and arches meet there are rows of bottles. mainly with Tuscany wine such as Chianti.

• Grand’antipasto = a collection of starters, including devilled egg with potato chunks, filled pumpkins and artichokes, meat dumplings with tomato sauce, white ricotta cheese dumplings, sausages and ham, raw prosciutto ham, smoked salmon and melon.

• Bistecca alla Fiorentina = coal grilled and salted beefsteak with spinach.

• Frutta con gelato = fresh fruit with ice cream.

Ricotta: Soft, unsalted cheese, reminiscent of Greek feta cheese, eaten fresh. Usually it is put into pasta envelopes or used in sweet bakery, but here it is served in wet and soft dumplings.

Girone VI

Vicolo Sinibaldi 2. Phone: 6880 22831. Hours: Closed lunch & Sunday. Price: L.135000 ($85) for two. All major cards. (C3).

A few steps from Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Mario

Via delle Vite 55. Phone: 678 3818. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.80000 ($51) for two. All major cards. (C2).

Very lively and rather inexpensive place with Tuscany cooking in the district of fashion shops beneath the Spanish Steps, about 400 meters from the steps and 200 meters from the traffic artery of Corso.

The decorations are simple. Small paintings and photos are tightly hung on the walls above the panelling. Most of the photos show Mario with thick brows in the company of famous and beautiful people. The restaurant is divided by arcades into three rooms with tightly set tables. Chianti in 1,5 liter bottles are put on the tables and drunk out of water glasses. The waiters are very busy and effective.

• Risotto con funghi = rice with mushrooms.

• Ribollita = vegetable soup.

• Ravioli verde = small pasta envelopes with spinach, cheese, egg and parmesan cheese.

• Due quaglie arrosto = two soft quails.

• Castagnaccio = hot and soft chestnut cake with whole nuts.

Tuscany cuisine: Generally considered the top of Italian cooking. The Queens of France were often brought from Florence, bringing with them their chefs, starting what is now called classical French cuisine. The best pasta in Italy comes from Tuscany: ravioli and gnochi. And Tuscany is one of the best wine regions in Italy.

Montevecchio

Piazza Montevecchio 22a. Phone: 686 1319. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.130000 ($82) for two. All major cards. (B3).

Tiny gourmet temple of 28 seats on a tine square in the densest and most inaccesible part of the old city, 100 meters to the west from the north end of Piazza Navona. Its speciality is game.

Earlier it was known as the restaurant Pino et Dino. Master chef Antonio Civello has changed it into a gourmet temple of the French type. The front door is locked and reservations are obligatory. The ceiling is high, the wine rack cupboard is huge, the single wall painting is huge and the wrought iron chandelier is huge.

• Strudel di funghi = Mushroom dumpling.

• Crepes al gorgonzola e noci = pancakes filled with gorgonzola cheese and almonds.

• Anitra alle noci = duck with almonds.

• Capretto d’Abruzzo al forno = oven-baked venison.

• Tiramisu = Venetian chocolate pudding with coffee chocolate.

• Creme brulée = caramel crusty pudding.

Italian game:

• Allodole = lark.

• Beccaccia = woodcock.

• Capretto = kid.

• Capriolo = roebuck.

• Cervo = venison.

• Chinghiale = wild boar.

• Lepre = hare.

• Quaglie = quail.

• Starna = partridge.

• Uccelletti = small birds, such as sparrows.

Moro

Vicolo delle Bollette 13. Phone: 68 40 736 & 67 83 495. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.120000 ($76) for two. All major cards. (C3).

Hidden in a side street about 100 meters from the Trevi fountain and other 100 meters from the main traffic artery Corso, you find this essential Roman restaurant offering true Roman food. It is mainly patronised by elderly local people even if travelers are also welcomed.

The furnishings are old-fashioned but not antique. Wooden panels cover the lower walls and above them there are discordant paintings. There are two dining rooms, the front one is better. Specialises in everything alla Romana = in the Roman way, which in fact can mean anything; and in antipasti assortiti = small and sundry appetisers.

• Spaghetti alle vongole = spaghetti with small shellfish in the shell.

• Ricotta = soft cheese.

• Abbacchio alla romana = a slice of lamb leg with pan-fried potatoes.

• Vitello cacciatora = veal with mushrooms and tomatoes.

• Insalata mista = mixed salad with oil and vinegar.

• Fragoline di bosco = wild strawberries.

Alla Romana:

• Abbachio alla romana = lamb cooked in egg, lemon and white wine sauce.

• Gnochi alla romana = mashed potato dumplings with tomato sauce and cheese.

• Pizza alla romana = pizza with mozzarella cheese, parmesan cheese and basil.

• Piselli alla romana = beans fried with onion, ham and butter.

• Pollo alla romana = chicken pieces fried in oil and butter with onion, ham, pepper and tomato.

• Saltimbocca alla romana = thin veal covered in ham.

• Trippa alla romana = tripe in tomato mint sauce, accompanied with pecorino-cheese.

• Zuppa alla romana = shellfish soup.

Nerone

Via delle Terme di Tito 96. Phone: 474 5207. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.65000 ($41) for two. All major cards. (D4).

Unpretentious and inexpensive, very Roman, about 200 meters north of the Colosseum. Its speciality is beef and French fried, so it is frequented by many foreign visitors. Many Italian places have inferior steaks for tourists, so seek out places which are used by local regulars, like this one.

This is a lively place with happy locals mixed with curious travelers, sitting in two rooms on comfortable wood chairs under vaulted ceilings and high panels, big and small paintings. The kitchen is in plain view.

• Anitpasto misti = a cold buffet of 34 items.

• Antipasto di mare = a choice of seafood from the cold buffet.

• Filetto de bue ai feri con patate fritta = thin and wide beef steak from the pan, with French fried.

• Gelati misti = three types of ice cream.

• Frutta di stagione = fresh fruit of the season.

Orso ’80

Via dell’Orso 33. Phone: 686 4904 & 686 1710. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.95000 ($60) for two. All major cards. (C2).

Strangely resembling a skiing hut in the old city center, 300 meters from Piazza Navona. An inexpensive restaurant with cuisine from Abruzzi, the mountainous region east of Rome.

An arch divides the restaurant in two parts. The front room is panelled with light pine in Nordic skiing style with inlaid cupboards of wrought iron. Many kinds of incidental paintings decorate the walls.

• Zuppa pavese = egg, bread and cheese soup.

• Risotto alla pescadora = rice with tomato and squid.

• Spaghetti alle vongole = spaghetti with shellfish in the shell.

• Filetto di bue alla griglia = grilled beef filet.

• Polla toscana arrosto = oven baked chicken.

• Frutta mista = mixed fruit.

• Creme caramel = caramel pudding.

Italian soups:

• Brodo = clear soups.

• Minestrone = clear soups with pasta.

• Minestre = thick soups with rice or pasta.

• Egg soups such as zuppa pavese and stracciatella.

Pancrazio

Piazza del Biscione 92. Phone: 686 1246. Fax: 686 1246. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: L.120000 ($76) for two. All major cards. (C3).

Build from the ruins of Teatro di Pompeo, a few steps from Campo de’Fiori. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Papà Giovanni

Via dei Sediari 4. Phone: 868 5308. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.165000 ($104) for two. All major cards. (C3).

Old family friend, amusingly tastelessly decorated restaurant with a locked front door, excellent cuisine and an ever-changing menu. It is 150 meters south of the Senate in Palazzo Madama and 50 meters north of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.

It is divided into long corridors with sofas and low tables on one side and bottle racks on the other. Naked bulbs hang from the old ceiling of carved wood. The walls show the varied brickwork. The wine bottles have not been dusted for decades.

• Misticanza con neretti = sea-urchin salad.

• Farfalla di spigola = marinated sea bass.

• Tagliolini alla cardinale = pasta reams with mushrooms.

• Vermicella pomodoro verde = green spaghetti with cheese.

• Portafoglio con funghi = broccoli and Brussels sprouts enclosed in veal slices.

• Granatina di filetto = veal dumplings with small tomatoes on salad.

• Creme brulée allo zenzero = crispy caramel pudding.

• Pastiera di castagne = chestnut paté with whipped cream.

Paris

Piazza San Callisto 7a. Phone: 581 5378. Hours: Closed Sunday dinner & Monday. Price: L.130000 ($82) for two. All major cards. (B4).

A few steps from Santa Maria in Trastevere. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Passetto

Via Zanardelli 14. Phone: 654 0569. Hours: Closed Monday lunch and Sunday. Price: L.140000 ($88) for two. All major cards. (B2).

A solid piece of the old block. Real Italian waiters of the old school serve food from plates as in the days before World War II. It is in the old city, 100 meters from Piazza Navona.

A long front room with a high ceiling, big mirrors on one wall and strange paintings on the other. Cork floor and panelling. A more conventional back room.

• Pasta e fagioli ai frutti di mare = pancake with chopped fish, baked with cheese and tomato sauce.

• Zuppa di cozze = mussel soup with the shells.

• Filetto al pepe verde = pepper steak with asparagus.

• Creme brulée = caramel pudding.

Zuppa di cozze: Oil, onion and tomatoes are heated in a pan, water is added and finally the mussels are added, opening on the way to the table.

Pianeta Terra

Via dell’Arco del Monte 95. Phone: 686 9893. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.300000 ($189) for two. All major cards. (B3).

One of the main cuisine temples in Rome, behind locked doors which are difficult to find in a pedestrian alley 200 meters away from the Campo de’Fiori square. The name means: The Planet Earth. Roberto Minetti cooks and Patrizia Minetti directs the service.

There is a bar and a sitting room downstairs. A dark dining room is upstairs, with different dark shades in the panelling. The ceiling is vaulted. There are special menus, taste menu, seafood menu, Roman menu and a conventional menu. The meal starts with four different breads.

• Criole al oeli di pomodoro e basilico = eel in basil and tomato sauce.

• Paté de foie gras in salsa di Recioto = goose liver in white wine sauce with redcurrant berries, wild strawberries and raspberries.

• Zuppe di lenticchie con gamberi = lentil soup with big prawns.

• Vermicelli alle mezzancolle = pasta with big giant prawn chunks in strong tomat sauce.

• Risotto au zuchine e zafferano = fried rice with zucchini, saffron and grana cheese.

• Pesce con cicoriette fritte = turbot with chicory.

• Insalate di carne = marinated beef slices with apple slices.

• Dolche di Patrizie e Roberto = fine desserts of the house.

Piccola Roma

Via Uffici del Vicario 36. Phone: 679 8606. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.80000 ($51) for two. All major cards. (C2).

Always busy, full of parliamentarians and pressure specialists, journalists and bureaucrats in a hurry, with their overcoats ready on the big pegs at the tables. Near the parliament, 200 meters from Corso.

As many exemplary restaurants in Rome this one tries not to be obvious on the outside. When inside it is rather big, in a few rooms on the first floor. The walls have brick up to the middle. Above that there are strange and accidental paintings and posters. A wine shelf goes through the restaurant.

• Prosciutto di San Daniele = lots of smoked ham, thinly sliced like Parma ham, only better, served with figs.

• Risotto pescatore = rice with squid and mussels.

• Abbachio forno = lamb, well done, with grilled potatoes.

• Gelato, three types of ice cream, with chocolate mint, vanilla and mocha.

Prosciutto is typically Italian. The best internationally known smoked ham comes from Parma. In Italy the one from San Danieli is considered at least equal to the one from Parma. The ham is always cut in very thin slices. Out of Italy it is usually accompanied with melon, but Italians like figs better.

Piperno

Via Monte de’Censi 9. Phone: 654 0629 & 654 2772. Hours: Closed Sunday dinner & Monday. Price: L.110000 ($69) for two. All major cards. (C3).

In a shady alley in the Jewish ghetto, beautiful and comfortable, with very good food, just under the walls of the Censi palace, about 50 meters from the Tevere river bank.

This is a big dining room with a circular buffet in the middle. There is wood everywhere, in the floor, in the panelling and in the ceiling. The furniture is of good quality. Enormous paintings of ancient ruins decorate the walls. There is also a simpler back room.

• Carciofi alla giudia = artichokes fried in oil in Jewish style.

• Filetti di baccalà = deep fried salt-cod.

• Le palle de nonno fritte = deep fried ricotta cheese with chocolate in butter pastry.

Carciofi alla giudia: The artichokes are opened and flattened, cut in pieces and deep fried in an oil mixture of secret ingredients. After cooking they are golden and look like flowers. This is a speciality of the Jewish ghetto.

Preistorici

Vicollo Orbitelli 13. Phone: 689 2796. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.120000 ($76) for two. No cards. (B3).

In the west end of the renaissance center of the city, in a pedestrian alley leading off Via Giulia near its northern end. A cosy restaurant with a locked door and a small doorbell sign and no other identification. It is run by one of the most adventurous chefs of the city, Luigi Frizziero.

The restaurant is in a few small rooms with vaulted ceilings. It is heavily panelled and decorated with big paintings. There is no menu.

• Prosciutto = thin slices of raw veal.

• Risotto di mare = rice with giant prawns.

• Filetto al pepe = pepper steak.

• Filetto griglia = grilled steak.

• Creme brulée = caramel pudding.

• Fragole = strawberries.

Risotto: A rice dish from the Po valley, generally connected with Milan and Venice. The rice is first fried in oil or butter, often with onions, and then cooked in a small amount of liquid, wine or the juice of the food, which then is mixed into the rice when it is served. Often butter and grana cheese are added.

Quinci Gabrieli

Via della Coppelle 6. Phone: 687 9389. Fax: 687 4940. Hours: Closed lunch & Sunday. Price: L.200000 ($126) for two. All major cards. (C3).

About 100 meters from the Pantheon. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Romolo nel Giardino

Via di Porta Settimiana 8. Phone: 581 8284. Fax: 580 0079. Hours: Closed Monday. Price: L.100000 ($63) for two. All major cards. (B3).

Enchanting garden restaurant in Trastevere, near the river. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Rosetta

Via della Rosetta 8-9. Phone: 686 1002 & 654 8841. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Price: L.180000 ($114) for two. All major cards. (C3).

The best seafood restaurant in Rome and one of its gourmet temples, in the old city, 100 meters north of Pantheon. You have to sound the bell to get in. From humble beginnings this Sicilian restaurant of the brothers Riccioli has gradually evolved into the refined place it is today. When we discovered it a decade ago it was much more basic than it is now.

The furnishings are elegant, with a big buffet overflowing with flowers, fruit and wine bottles. On the inner wall of the room there is a fish artwork in mosaic. The only discordant note is the piped music, which is happily absent in most Roman restaurants.

• Cappesante ai carciofi = scallops with artichokes.

• Spigola macinata al arancia = marinated sea bass in orange and lemon juice.

• Scampi insalata = prawn salad with grana cheese.

• Rombo griglia = grilled brill.

• Polipa griglia = grilled octopus.

• Macedonia di frutta = mixed fresh fruit.

• Sorbetto = lemon sorbet.

Shellfish:

• Arselle and vongole = small shells.

• Cappe and cappesante = scallops.

• Cozze and muscoli = mussels.

Sabatini

Vicolo Santa Maria in Trastevere. Phone: 581 8307. Hours: Closed Tuesday. Price: L.130000 ($82) for two. All major cards. (B4).

A popular place with travellers, but good in spite of that. In a pedestrian alley leading off Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, about 10 meters from the square. The district is a former slum that is changing into a fashionable one. There is a sister establishment with the same name on the square itself, equally good. Both have atmosphere and good seafood cuisine.

The center of the restaurant is the grill oven and buffet which we pass when we are shown to our tables in one of the side rooms. In the middle there is a traffic congestion of hurrying waiters and cooks. The side rooms are more quiet, with old, painted ceilings with wooden beams. This restaurant has been used as a location in a Fellini movie.

• Trippa alla romana = pan-fried tripe in tomato sauce with mint and pecorino cheese.

• Crespolini = pancakes with spinach, cheese, egg and liver.

• Costata di bue = steak.

• Tiramisú = chocolate dessert.

• Trippa: Can be soft and tasty when it is correctly cooked. It is a national dish all the way from Rome to Florence.

• Pecorino: A hard ewe cheese reminiscent of grana or parmesan.

Sans Souchi•
Via Sicilia 20/24. Phone: 482 1814. Fax: 482b 1771. Hours: Closed lunch & Monday. Price: L.220000 ($139) for two. All major cards. (D2).

A quality restaurant a few steps from Via Veneto. (Shortlisted for evaluation and inclusion)

Taverna

Via Massimo d’Azeglio 3f. Phone: 474 4305. Hours: Closed Saturday. Price: L.90000 ($57) for two.,. All major cards. (E3).

Comfortable and unassuming, with quick and solid service in a cellar, about 100 meters from the square in front of the central railway terminal. It offers solid cooking in the Roman style.

There are two rooms, with high panels alternating with light walls and coat-hangers. Above the panelling there are rows of wine bottles.

• Prosciutto di Parma = raw ham with melon.

• Filetto di bue con carciofi = beef filet with artichokes.

• Torta al ciocolato = chocolate tart.

Taverna Giulia

Vicolo dell’Oro. Phone: 686 9768 & 656 4089. Hours: Closed Sunday. Price: L.95000 ($60) for two. All major cards. (B3).

A cosy place with Ligurian cuisine at the west end of the old city center, near the bridges to the Vatican and St Peter’s.

Several small rooms and low panelling beneath rustic walls. Wrought iron rails are in arches between the rooms. Guests sit in comfortable wicket chairs.

• Trenette al pesto = flat pasta with Ligurian sauce.

• Lasagnette ai funghi porcini = small pasta plates with boletus mushrooms.

• Ravioli genovese = pasta envelopes with lamb and calf innards.

• Tagliatelle al gorgonzola = pasta strings with blue cheese.

• Vitello straccotto alla Genovese = broad and thin veal slices cooked in white wine with onion sauce.

• Faraoni di Giomnes all’arancio = guinea hen with a thin orange sauce and pan fried celery.

• Pacciugo = fresh fruit and berries with sorbet.

Pesto: A famous, strong sauce from Liguria, generally greenish, made of basil, nuts, garlic and lots of grana cheese. Liguria is the name of the coastal area around Genua.

Toulà

Via della Lupa 29b. Phone: 687 3498 & 687 3750. Hours: Closed Sunday & lunch Saturday. Price: L.190000 ($120) for two. All major cards. (C2).

In the old center, about 300 meters from the corner of Corso and Via Condotti, the refined and glamorous restaurant of international business gives good service to busy clients talking into pocket phones. In spite of that it is one of the best restaurants in the city, mainly because of chef Danaiele Repette, who cooks in Venetian style.

The place looks airy and spacious. From the entrance there are some steps down to the restaurant level, which is divided by arches into several sections with well-spaced tables. Waiters abound. At the end of the meal all guests get candy drops and a very hard frigolotta bisquit which has to be smothered with an hammer.

• Carpaccio di’vitello con pate di olive mere e pinoli = thin slices of raw veal with olive paté, grana cheese, lemon juice and oil.

• Medaglioni d’astice con insalata novelle e punte d’asparagi = freshwater crab salad with asparagus tips.

• Ventaglio di petto d’anitra alle nerue aroccasti = duck breast.

• Cotelette di’capriolo a la ginepro con polenta = venison cutlets in ginger with mashed corn.

• Budino di nocciole con mousse di cioccolato = nut putting coated with chocolate.

Vecchia Roma

Piazza di Campitelli 18, Via della Tribuna. Phone: 686 4604. Hours: Closed Wednesday. Price: L.130000 ($82) for two. All major cards. (C3).

Corn is the speciality of this well-known restaurant in the middle of the Jewish ghetto, 300 meters from the steps up to Capitolum. There are many places with this name, but this is the real one.

The restaurant is in several small rooms with bright wooden panelling, big paintings from the history of Rome, iron bars in the windows and table candlesticks of wrought iron.

• Calamaretti affogati all’uvetta = a few whole octopuses fried in oil, with tomato.

• Polenta ghiottona = corn porridge looking like mashed potatoes, corny and salty, made in the Jewish way.

• Polenta boscaiola = corn porridge with boletus mushrooms.

Polenta: Corn porridge made by boiling maize in water until it becomes thick and chunky. Then it is cooled and cut in slices which are usually fried, baked or grilled. The porridge form in Vecchia Roma is rather unusual.

Teatro dell’Opera

Via Firenze 62. (D3).

The venue of great popular operas. In summer it operates in the Baths of Caracalla.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Feneyjar gisting

Ferðir

Hótel í Feneyjum eru yfirleitt hrein og vel við haldið, þar á meðal pípulagnir, ef þau hafa þrjár stjörnur eða fleiri. En tveggja stjörnu hótel geta líka verið mjög góð, þótt þau hafi ef til vill ekki sjónvarpstæki á herbergjum. Einka baðherbergi er talið sjálfsagt. Sum hótel hafa verið innréttuð í frægum höllum, sem eru enn innréttaðar í gömlum stíl.

Dýrara er að gista í Feneyjum en annars staðar á Ítalíu. Þú getur þess vegna gist uppi í landi og farið á morgnana með lest eða bíl í bæinn, en það kostar auðvitað bæði tíma og peninga.

Morgunverður á ítölskum hótelum er yfirleitt nauðaómerkilegur, svipað og á frönskum hótelum. Betra er að fá sér ferskt pressaðan safa, nýbakað brauð og kaffi úti á horni.

Agli Alboretti

(Rio Terra Sant’Agnese, Dorsoduro 884. Sími: 523 0058. Fax: 521 0158. Verð: L.182000 (7698 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 20 herbergi. B2)

Skemmtilegt, lítið hótel í gömlu og brakandi húsi við hlið aðalsafnsins í Feneyjum, Accademia. Frá bátastöðinni framan við safnið er farið hliðargötuna vinstra megin við það. Hótelið er við þá götu, um 100 metra frá stöðinni.

Gestamóttaka er lítil og skemmtilega gamaldags og lyfta er ekki í húsinu. Herbergin snúa ýmist að fremur breiðri götunni milli hótels og Accademia eða að óvenjulega stórum bakgarði.

Herbergi 3 er fremur lítið og einfalt, með glugga út að garði, afar hreinlegt og milt í litum, með síma og hárþurrku, en engu sjónvarpi. Húsbúnaður er gamaldags, nánast forn. Baðherbergið er með minnsta móti, en vel búið og fullflísað. Sturtan tekur þriðjung af plássinu.

Danieli

(Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4196. Sími: 522 6480. Fax: 520 0208. Verð: L.770000 (32569 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 221 herbergi. C2)

Frábært glæsihótel í fagurri, gotneskri miðaldahöll á breiðbakkanum við lónið, nánast við hlið hertogahallarinnar, fyrrum heimkynni Dandolo-ættar. Hótelið er í þremur samhliða höllum og hægt er að gista þar fyrir tvo þriðju hluta verðsins, sem hér er gefið upp, en beztu hertogaherbergin í elztu höllinni eru þau, sem fólk sækist eftir, ef það gistir á stað sem þessum.

Opinberir salir hótelsins eru með því glæsilegasta sem sést, allt lagt marmara og dýrasta viði. Þrjár hæðir eru til lofts í móttökunni og tvær í víðáttumikilli setustofu til hliðar. Þjónar eru misjafnir, sumir eru góðir, en aðrir þyrftu að komast niður á jörðina. Lifandi tónlist er í setustofunni á brezkum tedrykkjutíma og síðan tónlist með söng á kvöldin.

Herbergi 33 er frábært, stórt og ríkmannlegt, með glugga út að lóninu, klaustureyjunni San Giorgio Maggiore og iðandi mannlífi bakkans. Það er í mildum, grænum litum í mjúkum veggdúk, gluggatjöldum, rúmábreiðum og vínskáp. Vandað parkett er á brakandi gólfi. Baðherbergið er sérstaklega glæsilegt, lagt fegursta marmara og einstaklega vel búið, þar á meðal baðsloppum.

Do Pozzi

(Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2373. Sími: 520 7855. Fax: 522 9413. Verð: L.160000 (6768 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 29 herbergi. B2)

Uppáhaldshótelið okkar, lítið og notalegt, við aðalgötu um 400 metra frá Markúsartorgi, hefur bezt hlutfall verðs og gæða í borginni. Frá suðvesturhorni torgsins er gengin Salizzada San Moisè og áfram yfir brú á Calle larga 22. Marzo, þar sem mörg sund liggja til vinstri að Canal Grande. Hótelið er við enda vestasta sundsins, greinilega merkt við aðalgötuna.

Frá lítilli og þægilegri gestamóttöku er innangengt í Rafaele veitingahúsið í sömu eigu. Langir og mjóir gangar eru skreyttir teikningum og málverkum. Þjónusta er afar lipur.

Herbergi 75 er notalegt, fremur lítið og bjart, snýr glugga að Calle larga 22. Marzo og brakar þægilega, þegar gengið er um gólf. Fornlegur húsbúnaður er léttur og vandaður, í mildum sumarlitum. Þar er sjónvarp, sími og vínskápur. Fullflísað baðherbergi hefur líka glugga og er vel búið, til dæmis stóru baðkeri og hárþurrku.

Europa e Regina

(Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2159. Sími: 520 0477. Fax: 523 1533. Verð: L.565000 (23898 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 192 herbergi. B2)

Eitt glæsihótelanna við Canal Grande snýr breiðri hlið að skurðinum, svo að tiltölulega auðvelt er að fá herbergi með útsýni yfir umferðina á skurðinum til Salute kirkjunnar á hinum bakkanum. Það er við aðalgötuna Calle larga 22. Marzo, um 300 metra frá suðvesturhorni Markúsartorgs. Farin er Salizzada San Moisè, yfir brúna og til vinstri ómerkta leið framhjá gondólaræðurunum.

Móttakan er í þeim hluta, sem áður var hótelið Europa, en beztu herbergin eru í Regina hlutanum. Niðri eru miklir salir, þar á meðal veitingastaðurinn Tiepolo, sem einnig er morgunverðarstofa hótelsins. Þjónusta er afar góð, svo sem hæfir stíl og verði staðarins.

Herbergi 456 er stórt og myndarlegt, vandað og virðulegt að öllum búnaði. Ljósgrænir veggir kalla á stærri málverk. Um tvær dyr er gengið út á stórar einkasvalir með einstæðu útsýni yfir Canal Grande. Húsbúnaður er forn og fagur. Öll þægindi eru á fullflísuðu baði. Þetta er lúxus-herbergi.

Fenice et des Artistes

(Campiello de la Fenice, San Marco 1936. Sími: 523 2333. Fax: 520 3721. Verð: L.250000 (10574 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 65 herbergi. B2)

Vel þekkt, samnefnt óperuhúsi borgarinnar, sem er við hliðina, um 500 metra frá Markúsartorgi. Frá suðvesturhorni torgsins er farin Salizzada San Moisè og áfram Calle larga 22. Marzo, þaðan sem beygt er til hægri eftir sundinu Calle delle Veste inn á Campo San Fantin framan við leikhúsið. Farið er hægra megin við leikhúsið til annars torgs, þar sem hótelið er.

Móttakan er í eins konar garðhúsi milli tveggja húsa hótelsins. Ekki er lyfta í eldra húsinu, en stigi og gangar eru teppalagðir og skreyttir gömlum munum. Starfsfólki er frekar ókunnugt um gang mála úti í bæ.

Herbergi 312 er meðalstórt og hlýlegt, snyrtilega innréttað fornum húsbúnaði, sjónvarpi og síma, og grænum litum í veggfóðri, ofnum, teppi og lofti. Glugginn snýr að smágarði. Fullflísað baðherbergi er vel búið og rúmgott, með setubaðkeri.

Flora

(Calle larga 22. Marzo, San Marco 2283a. Sími: 520 5844. Fax: 522 8217. Verð: L.210000 (8883 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 44 herbergi. B2)

Gamalfínt hótel og ekki dýrt, vel í sveit sett við aðalgötu í nágrenni Markúsartorgs, um 400 metra frá suðvesturhorni torgsins. Farin er Salizzada San Moisè, yfir brú og áfram eftir Calle larga 22. Marzo, þar sem beygt er til vinstri inn í hliðarsund, sem er hið þriðja í röðinni frá hinum enda götunnar. Hótelið er greinilega merkt við innganginn í sundið.

Bak við Art Nouveau inngang er allt í leðri og eðalviði. Virðulegur hótelstigi liggur upp á efri hæðir, skreyttur speglum og veggtjöldum, sem einkenna hótelið. Starfslið kann vel til verka og er einkar þægilegt og kurteist. Allir, sem ekki eru ávarpaðir “professore”, eru ávarpaðir “dottore”.

Herbergi 2 er gamalt og lúið, hreint og gott, búið fornum húsgögnum, sjónvarpi, síma og hárþurrku. Gluggar snúa út að nostursömum garði að baki anddyris. Fullflísað og nýtízkulegt baðherbergi er afar vel búið.

Marconi

(Riva del Vin, San Polo 729. Sími: 522 2068. Fax: 522 9700. Verð: L.283000 (11970 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 26 herbergi. B1)

Skemmtilegt og vel staðsett á bakka Canal Grande, nokkrum skrefum frá Rialto-brú. Frá Rialto bátastöð er farið yfir brúna og beygt til vinstri eftir bakkanum Riva del Vin.

Að baki inngangs er lítil og snyrtileg móttaka með hæfu starfsliði. Flóknir stigar liggja upp á hæðirnar, langir gangar og síðan aftur stigi niður í morgunverðarsal með hlaðborði að norður-evrópskum hætti.

Herbergi 11 er stórt og vel búið fornum húsgögnum, sjónvarpi og síma, hárþurrku og vínskáp, gólfteppi á terrazzo-gólfi og sérkennilega ljótum glerljósakrónum í svifstíl á veggjum. Burðarbitar sjást í lofti. Útsýni er aðeins út í næsta vegg. Fullflísað baðherbergi er stórt og nýtízkulegt, með hitagrind fyrir handklæði.

Monaco e Grand Canal

(Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1325. Sími: 520 0211. Fax: 520 0501. Verð: L.360000 (15227 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 70 herbergi. B2)

Öndvegishótel með breiðri framhlið og frábæru útsýni yfir Canal Grande að Santa Maria della Salute, óvenjulega vel í sveit sett um 100 metra frá Markúsartorgi. Frá suðvesturhorni torgsins eru farin nokkur skref eftir Salizzada San Moisè og beygt til vinstri inn í Calle Vallaresso, þar sem hótelið er hægra megin sundsins úti á skurðbakka.

Hótelið hefur þann kost umfram flest önnur, að meirihluti herbergjanna snýr út að breiðum og fjölförnum skurðinum. Starfsfólk er einkar þægilegt.

Herbergi 306 er afar vel búið vönduðum og fornlegum húsgögnum úr renndum eðalviði, handmáluðum fataskáp og virðulegu skrifpúlti, sjónvarpi og síma. Fullflísað baðherbergi er nýtízkulegt og vel búið. Glugginn snýr beint að Canal Grande.

Paganelli

(Riva degli Schiavoni, Castello 4182. Sími: 522 4324. Fax: 523 9267. Verð: L.160000 (6768 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 22 herbergi. B2)

Afar hagstætt hótel á breiða gönguferðabakkanum andspænis lóninu um 300 metra frá hertogahöllinni. Bátastöðin San Zaccaria er beint framan við hótelið, sem er í tveimur aðskildum hlutum. Annar er á sjálfum bakkanum og hinn í sundi þar við hliðina. Móttakan er í fyrrnefnda hlutanum, þar sem herbergin eru heldur dýrari og morgunverðarstofan í hinum síðarnefnda.

Hótelið er afar lítið og þröngt, hreinlegt og þægilegt, án lyftu, rekið af þægilegu starfsfólki, sem reynir ekki að breiða yfir mistök. Morgunmatur er fremur góður, því að ávextir eru á boðstólum.

Herbergi 23 er í hliðarálmunni, afar lítið, búið fornum og samræmdum húsgögnum, þar á meðal handmáluðu skrifpúlti. Beinn sími er á herberginu, en ekki sjónvarp. Fornir burðarbitar í lofti fegra staðinn. Fullflísað baðherbergið er nýtízkulegt og vel búið, þar á meðal hitagrind fyrir handklæði, sem eru óvenju stór.

Sturion

(Calle Sturion, San Polo 679. Sími: 523 6243. Fax: 522 8378. Verð: L.180000 (7614 kr) með morgunverði. Öll helztu greiðslukort. 11 herbergi. B1)

Sérkennilegt hótel og skemmtilegt, aðeins 100 metra frá Rialto brú. Frá Rialto bátastöðinni er farið yfir brúna og beygt til vinstri eftir bakkanum Riva del Vin og síðan beygt til hægri inn í portið Calle Sturion, þar sem hótelið er vinstra megin. Þaðan liggur svo ógnarlangur og beinn stigi upp á fimmtu hæð.

Hótel með þessu nafni var rekið í húsinu í fimm aldir, frá lokum 13. aldar til loka 18. aldar, þekkt af málverkum og fornum skjölum. Eftir tveggja alda hlé var síðan opnað hótel aftur, en aðeins á tveimur efstu hæðum hússins. Það er notalegt fjölskyldufyrirtæki með góðri morgunverðarstofu, sem býður útsýni yfir Canal Grande. Tvö herbergjanna snúa þangað líka.

Herbergi 10 er afar sérkennilegt, myndar langan gang, þar sem lítið baðherbergi er fremst, síðan forstofa og gangur með vaski og loks svefnálma í innsta enda. Úr litlum glugga er útsýni yfir húsþök San Polo hverfis. Húsbúnaður er gamaldags, en hreinlegur. Þarna er sjónvarp og sími, vínskápur og hárþurrka.

uýmist að fremur breiðri götunni milli hótels og Accademia eða að óvenjulega stórum bakgarði.

Herbergi 3 er fremur lítið og einfalt, með glugga út að garði, afar hreinlegt og milt í litum, með síma og hárþurrku.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson