Strøget
(B2).
The liveliest street in town, the true axis of the center, crowded with pedestrians all day long. All kinds of people mix together and fit together. It takes 15 minutes to walk along the whole street, excluding window-shopping and observing happenings. There are many sidewalk cafés, mainly at Amagertorv. The latter square is the center of importance at Strøget.
We went our way listening to a jazz band’s lively music on the corner of Bremerholm, foreign hippies’ guitar music in a closed bank entrance in Østergade, atomic power friends leaflet distribution on Amagertorv, students’ protest against cuts in the education budget on Vimmelskaftet, and their colleagues’ play about the same issue on Nytorv.
It connects the two central squares of Copenhagen, Kongens Nytorv and Rådhuspladsen. It has the densest concentration of interesting shops for travelers, especially the eastern part of it, in the neighborhood of Kongens Nytorv. Crossing Strøget are also some interesting shopping streets and alleys. At both ends of Strøget there are other popular shopping streets.
We start at Hans Hansen on the corner of Strøget (signposted as Amagertorv) and Hemmingsensgade.
Hans Hansen
Amagertorv 16. (B2).
On the corner of Strøget and Hemmingsensgade, opposite Helligåndskirken church, one of the best silver shops in Denmark, with displays of modern design, including silver-inlaid palisander in fifty different objects. The style of owner Karl Gustav Hansen’s design is angular, almost mathematical, and will probably still be fashionable in the 21st C.
From Amagertorv we continue eastwards on Strøget (signposted as Amagertorv) and soon arrive at Illum’s Bolighus on our left side.
Illums
Amagertorv 10. (B2).
One of the best and most important home-furnishings shops in the world, a four-storey world of wonders, with no single item of a tun-of-the-mill type. Many of the best-known Danish designers are represented at Illums, amongst them Bjørn Viinblad, the illustrious and dynamic creator. Some of his designs are moderately priced at Illums, an exception that proves the rule.
Here the feeling grows inside us that all our odds and ends at home are only worth a classified ad in our local newspaper, and that we must instead get a container full of the artistic, high-quality and clever designer items at Illums. The central main hall of the shop was originally a courtyard behind many narrow houses that one by one were added to the shop.
This is an ocean of lamps, carpets, fabrics, furs, fashions, ceramics, jewelry, glass, kitchenware, tableware, furniture and other things for the house. Our local shops seem provincial by comparison. On our last visit we especially noticed simple lampshades with inlaid dried flowers. They were beautiful and reasonable priced, but alas, too bulky for a travelers baggage.
Next door is Royal Copenhagen, Den Kongelige Porcelainsfabrik.
Kongelige Porcelainsfabrik
Amagertorv 4. (B2).
Having incorporated it nearest neighbor and competitor in porcelain, Bing & Grøndahl, it is now the best known producer in the world of serial Christmas plates, Mother’s Day plates and the Seagull china collection. It has also incorporated Holmegaard glassware and Georg Jensen silwerware, and offers now porcelain, glass and silver under the banner of Royal Copenhagen.
Kongelige Porcelainsfabrik and Bing & Grøndahl were the first to underglaze a century ago, to color porcelain before glazing. Originally they mastered the blue color, best known from the Seagull and Empire collections. Later black was mastered and the Falling Leaf collection was sold around the world.
There are hundreds of types of tableware, gliding birds, swimming fish, smiling children, statuettes, lamps, vases and ashtrays. And twelve beautiful Copenhagen plates. Many items have a singular, polished magic.
On the other side of the street we see the W.Ø. Larsen tobacco shop.
Larsen
Amagertorv 9. (B2).
The premier pipe- and tobacco shop in Denmark was founded in 1864 and has been owned by the same family for five generations. To the right of the entrance there is a small museum on the history of smoking. Exhibited are many types of pipes, including Indian peace pipes and porcelain pipes.
The shop itself is on the left side, long and narrow. It sells rare pipes, rare pipe tobacco, rare snuff and the finest real Havanas in the world.
On continuing eastwards we come to the pedestrian Købmagergade leading off Strøget to the north.
Købmagergade
Købmagergade. (B2).
Three well known gourmet shops line this side street. On the right side are side by side the Melhede butcher shop at no. 52 and the Czar-Andersens cheese shop at no 32. They exhibit dozens of different sausages and more than hundred French cheeses in addition to the local ones.
Opposite these shops, at no. 15 the Marstand bakery sends aromas of fresh Danish Pastry, Napoleon cakes and many other diet-forgetting delicacies.
We turn back to Strøget (here signposted as Østergade) and continue to the east. An pedestrian alley called Pistolstræde leads north off the Strøget.
Pistolstræde
(B2).
The nicest shopping alley in town, giving us a glimpse of the 18th C, even if deodorized. The furrier Birger Christensen worked for years with architect Erik Møller to rehabilitate this old and dying alley by renovating the old half-timbered houses.
To the left of the entrance is Bee Cee, a subsidiary for young women of Christensen’s main shop. To the right is the St Laurent Rive Gauche fashion shop. Next on the right is the Bee Cee lunch restaurant with happy paintings by Jean Dewasne. On the left is Court Gallery, showing abstract art including Miro and the Cobra group, which became famous here.
We walk past an inlaid chessboard in the pavement, continue past Chanel and More & More on the left and Skandinavisk Glas and Duqaine Hansen on the right. Skandinavisk Glass sells glassware from all the Scandinavian countries, including the designs of Orrefors and Kosta.
At the right hand turn of the street we arrive at the back door of Ting & Sager.
Ting & Sager
(B2).
A tiny and cramped rag shop in a house from 1750, overflowing with kitchen utensils, blouses, carpets and other most amusing and unbelievable things.
Beside Ting & Sager is Cranks Grønne Buffet, the best-known vegetarian restaurant in Copenhagen, in a building from 1728.
The most beautiful half-timbered houses are in this part of the alley.
Continuing on Pistolstræde we pass restaurant Alsace on our right. Arriving at Ny Østergade we turn left and go a few steps to Bjørn Viinblad’s Hus.
Bjørn Wiinblads Hus
(B2).
A combination of a gallery and an art shop, showing and selling objects made by Bjørn Viinblad. This 18th C. house with an inside atrium with a fountain has been changed into a fairy tale.
Exhibited are ceramic plates, large circular tables, quaint posters, reprints of sketches for the ballet and theater, bedroom sheets and jewelry. Wiinblads flowery style is unmistakable.
If we continue and turn right we arrive at the front doors of Ting & Sager and Crank’s Grønne Buffet. Otherwise we turn back and walk on Pistolstræde to Strøget (signposted as Østergade) where we see Holmegård directly opposite the entrance of Pistolstræde.
Holmegaard
Østergade 15. (B2).
The main outlet of a famous Danish glassworks, well known for its President collection of wine glasses. One of its main designers is Per Lütken, famous for his Ships collection of wine glasses. Another is Michael Bang, who designed the Globetrotter glasses. A third one is Torben Jørgensen.
Available are all kinds of glass objects, not only glasses.
Holmegaard is now under the Royal Copenhagen umbrella, just like Bing & Grøndahl and Georg Jensen.
On the other side of the street we see the main outlet of Birger Christensen.
Birger Christensen
38 Østergade. (B2).
One of the best known furriers in the world. Here every fur is special, tastefully designed. Only in-house design is sold. And a new line is brought out twice a year. The prices range from DKr. 9,000 to DKr. 250,000. The pride of the house is the Saga-mink line bred in 20 colors.
We are soon at the end of Strøget. On our right, we come to Bang & Olufsen.
Bang & Olufsen
Østergade 3-5. (B2).
Danish design is evident in this audio and video equipment shop. The flat and gracious style is the hallmark of Bang & Olufsen technology.
Beside Bang & Olufsen, on the corner of Kongens Nytorv square, the is Østergades Vinhandel.
Østergades Vinhandel
Østergade 1. (B2).
One of the best-known wine shops in Copenhagen, on the former premises of the 19th C. restaurant Genelli.
We now cross Strøget and continue on Kongens Nytorv past the Angleterre hotel and arrive at the Couronne de Lierre florist.
Couronne de Lierre
Kongens Nytorv. (B2).
The best florist in town, on the ground floor of the palace of Store Skandinaviske. It is small and inconspicious. The flowers are beautiful and some of them are rare. They specialize in making unusual flower arrangements.
We retrace our steps back along Kongens Nytorv, cross Strøget and come to the palace of Magasin du Nord.
Magasin du Nord
Kongens Nytorv 13. (B2).
One of the largest department stores in Scandinavia. It is very practical for travelers as the various departments include offers from most of the specialty shops of Danish design.
Finally we take a taxi or walk 1200 meters to the Israels Plads outdoor market. From Kongens Nytorv we walk north along Gothersgade all the way to Linnesgade where we turn left to arrive at the market.
Israels Plads
Israels Plads. (A2).
A small market with a good choice of most fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers. The prices are about 60% of the prices of shops in the city center. It is most lively on Saturday, when there is also a flea market until 14.
Den Permanente
(A3).
A perennial pride of Copenhagen, this applied art gallery and boutique specializes in home furnishings, designed by Danish artists and architects. It has designer furniture and avant-garde tableware and earthenware, ceramics and fabrics, jewelry and other finery, games and decorations.
Tivoli
Tivoli. (A3).
Spring has arrived in Copenhagen when Danes start to amuse themselves in this garden, unparalleled anywhere else in its special Danish-ness, the relaxed atmosphere called “hygge”. Nothing is more likely to relax a stressed mind or gladden a sorrowful heart. The place is so imbued with effortless Danish joy, that it dwarfs the Disneylands and theme parks of other countries.
From 1843 this famous amusement park has been in the heart of Copenhagen, a blissful place of peace and variety, only a few steps from the heavy downtown traffic. We leave modern reality and enter the strange and beautiful worlds of fairy tales. We imagine faraway continents with minarets and pagodas. We enter our own imagination in this surrealistic combination of unbelievables.
Tivoli is a kind of democracy mixing people from upstairs and downstairs, where young and old have a good time side by side. All are equal, all are informal, both the ambassador and the thrash-man. The park has many faces. We can sit down in morning peace and quiet by the lake. We can sample the rides in the afternoon. In the evening we can dance or observe the play of colors.
Tivoligarden is an integral part of Tivoli.
Tivoligarden
Tivoli. (A3).
An orchestra of 106 boys from the ages of 9 to 16, as old an institution as the park itself. It marches Thursday at 17:00 and Saturday & Sunday at 18:30 and 20:30; and plays at the Plænen in front of the H.C. Andersen’s palace Sunday at 15:15.
Tivoli opens at 10 in the morning. Then the baby-sitters arrive, leaving the children in the park’s kindergarten. Widows on pensions, who have bought seasonal tickets to the park, look at the flower displays and rest on the benches. Even businessmen come at noon to finish deals at the lunch table. The rides for children start at 11:30 and all is in full swing by 15:00.
Valmuen, the children’s theater has shows Saturday and Sunday at 13:30 and 14:30 and Wednesday-Monday in July.
We turn our attention to the pantomime Påfuglsteatret.
Påfuglsteatret
Tivoli. (A3).
The peacock theater has been a specialty of Tivoli for a century. It is a pantomime theater according to Venetian rules from the Renaissance. We see Harlequin, Columbina, Pierrot and Cassandra show the classic type of pantomime. It starts Monday-Saturday at 19:45, Saturday also at 21:45. There is a ballet at Påfuglsteatret Monday-Friday at 21:45.
Next we go to Koncerthallen in the center of the garden.
Koncerthallen
Tivoli. (A3).
Music is an integral part of Tivoli. Its center is a concert hall, Koncertsalen, where the garden’s own symphonic orchestra plays, often with illustrious foreign soloists. The first evening performance usually begins at 19:30 and the last one at 21:00. It plays both classic music and modern jazz.
Other orchestras and bands play elsewhere in the park. Open-air concerts start at Promenade-pavilionen about 16:00 and continue with short pauses until midnight.
Acrobatic artists appear on Plænen at 19:00 and 22:30 all days and also Saturday and Sunday at 17:00. In Tivoli-teatret plays usually commence at 19:30 and 21:30.
The H.C. Andersen’s palace houses the vax museum.
Voksmuseum
Tivoli. Hours: Open in summer 10-23, in winter 10-18. (A3).
We see Charles, Prince of Wales, and Karl Gustaf, King of Sweden, at a reception given by Margaret, Queen of Denmark. We also see the Middle Eastern leaders Arafat and Rabin and the presidents of world powers at a press conference. We see the writers Hemingway and Shakespeare in a library. We also see all kinds of figures from the fairy tales of H.C. Andersen.
There are 200 full-size figures in the museum.
DKr. 48 for adults and DKr. 20 for children.
When the evening comes on and the lights start to dominate, Pagoden comes into the forefront.
Pagoden
Tivoli. (A3).
At 19:00 the over 20 restaurants in the park start to light up, including Pagoden. At 20:00 the dancing starts at Taverna, folk-singing at Vise-Vers and jazz at Slukefter. The merrymaking increases in the evening when it gets dark. 110,000 multicolored lamps and lights in fountains and in the beds of 160,000 flowers illuminate the park. Some days end with a firecracker show.
We don’t recommend a formal walk through Tivoli. Much more interesting is to wander around and lose one’s way, getting carried by the continuous flow of smiling and laughing people. But we can show you the way around. You may arrive by the main entrance, facing Vesterbrogade. On our right-hand side there is an information office and the Valmuen children’s theater.
We go straight on past Promenade-pavilionen to our right and the Plænen open-air stage on the left. Restaurant Balkonen is opposite Plænen. That is the place for a drawn-out dinner, watching the happenings on Plænen, the acrobats, the firecrackers and the marching of Tivoligården.
The best restaurant in Tivoli is Sct. Georg III. This time we are sampling the atmosphere and prefer to have dinner at Færgekroen.
Færgekroen
Tivoli. (A3).
After dinner at romantic Færgekroen we return to Plænen. From there we go through the fountain area to the carnival merry-go-rounds, where the Rutchebanen switchback is most popular and Baljebanen brings you to the sunken world of Atlantis. Here also is a Ferris wheel and about 20 other rides.
We walk between gadgets and roulettes past the Taverna dancing hall, go behind the concert hall, past the Pagoden pagoda and the mirror saloon. We walk counter-clockwise around the lake where we recognize restaurant Færgekro. We keep to the lake, walk past the kindergarten and the H.C. Andersen’s palace, where the vax museum is inside.
We walk through the flower garden all the way to Harmonia-pavilionen where we leave the lake and turn to the right past Tivoli-teatret and restaurant Grøften which is the most zestful and the most Danish restaurant in the park. Finally we pass Påfuglsteatret and arrive again at the main Vesterbrogade entrance. We have spent a whole day here and are ready to come again.
Another place for children is just 100 meters from the entrance. It is Circus Benneweis.
Circus Benneweis
Jernbanegade 8. (A3).
An important part of the special charm of the city center. The building is more than a century old. The fifth generation of the oldest circus family in Europe, the Benneweis family, is in charge. From April 1st to the end of October each year this circus has a two and a half hour performance each day and twice on Saturday and Sunday. In winter the circus goes traveling.
Animals are central to the show, drilled by the Benneweis family. White Arabian horses and elephants have the most interesting performances. In addition new artists are collected each spring, such as clowns, tightrope walkers, acrobats, magicians and jugglers. Often the shows are performed by visiting circus groups. Everybody has fun and thrills, both young and old.
We include the Copenhagen Zoo which is a short way from the center in the eastern direction along Vesterbrogade and its continuation in Roskildevej.
Zoo
Roskildevej 32 / Søndre Fasanenvej. Phone: 3630 2001. Hours: Open 9-16/18.
The zoo is one of the oldest in the world, opened in 1859, but does not look its age, as it is under constant renovation. It has experienced better success than most others in making the animals relatively happy in conditions not natural to them. This is probably one of the very few zoos where Indian elephants, white rhinos and Congo peacocks have had offspring.
This is noteworthy as the zoo is in a restricted space in the city itself. But its directors and zoologists have put special emphasis on trying to make the animals comfortable in spite of the conditions. The zoo is open all year round, but is most interesting when flowers are in bloom. Entrance is DKr. 55 for adults, DKr. 27 for children. Buses 27 and 28.
It boasts 500 different species, some of them a rarity in zoos. Among them are the Bengali tiger, the musk ox and the Congo peacock. There are of course also lions and panthers, camels and zebras, giraffes and ostriches, bears and antelopes. The animals are most lively at feeding times. A special area is reserved for the children’s zoo where you can touch the animals and play.
Old Town
Warrior bishop Absalon founded Copenhagen in 1167 by building a castle on the island of Slotsholmen. The fishing village around the castle soon grew into a merchant town, giving it the present name, which means: “Merchants’ harbor”. For centuries the royal palace was on the island and the merchant town was on the banks round the island. Now the parliament is on Slotsholmen.
It became an official capital of Denmark in the early 15th C. Many churches and palaces in the center date from a building boom in the 17th C. during the reign of Christian IV. Devastating city fires in 1728 and 1795 destroyed most of the ordinary houses inside the city walls, so that the present-day architecture of the old center is mainly from the beginning of the 19th C.
We cover the old town inside the former city walls in three short walks. The first one covers Slotsholmen and the oldest part of the merchant town. This is the area between the main squares of the center, Kongens Nytorv and Rådhuspladsen.
We start on Kongens Nytorv, where it meets pedestrian Strøget.
Kongens Nytorv
Kongens Nytorv. (B2).
The most beautiful square in central Copenhagen, lined with palaces and enjoying a green park in the middle. It is dominated by the snow white Angleterre hotel with its long glassed-in sidewalk café. Other buildings of note are the palace of the Store Skandinaviske company; the Charlottenborg academy of arts; and the royal theater and opera, Kongelige Teater.
There are some amusing bars at Kongens Nytorv or a few steps from it. Hviids Vinstue, one of the oldest pubs in town, and Skindbuksen are between Angleterre and Kongelige Teater and Brønnum is between Kongelige Teater and Charlottenborg.
We walk to the green Krinsen park in the middle.
Krinsen
Kongens Nytorv. (B2).
The green is around an equestrian statue of Christian V. The statue is a recent bronze copy of the original lead statue from 1688. During the centuries the leaden feet of the horse has sunk, making it advisable in 1946 to change to a stronger material.
On the other side of the square, beside Nyhavn, there is Charlottenborg palace.
Charlottenborg
Nyhavn 2. (B2).
Built in Baroque style 1672-1683, at that time considered to be the most elegant building of Copenhagen. The Royal Academy of Arts, Den Kongelige Akademi, has been there since 1754. Behind the palace is a big gallery, where important exhibitions are held.
To the right of Charlottenborg there is the Kongelige Teater = The Royal Theater.
Kongelig Teater
Kongens Nytorv. (B2).
The conspicuous palace from 1872-1874 houses the royal theater, the royal opera and the royal ballet. The main auditorium holds 1500 spectators and the smaller auditorium holds 1000.
Theater, opera and ballet are top class in Copenhagen. Inspect the monthly “Copenhagen This Week” or the local newspapers to find information on performances.
We cross the Holmens Kanal street from the theater palace to the department store of Magasin du Nord, formerly the famous Hotel du Nord. We walk past the store and turn right into Vingårdsstræde, go past the gourmet temple of Kong Hans and arrive at Bremerholm street where we turn left.
Holmensgade
(B2).
This was once a narrow and a notorious street named Holmensgade with shady bars and bordellos. The occupations of sin were driven away by demolition and moved first to Nyhavn harbor and then to the Istedgade area behind the central railway station. Now solemnity reigns here and nothing reminds us of the former atmosphere.
The district around the street dates partly from the years after the city fire of 1795. Many of the old house shave been demolished and new ones built in their places, completely spoiling the character of the district. We can have a look in some of the small and older side streets.
We continue on Bremerholm, cross Holmens Kanal, a street that was once a canal, and walk along Havnegade to the former island of Bremerholm.
Bremerholm
(B2).
The former island was the shipyard of the royal navy. The workforce came from the Bremerholm prison where prisoners for life were kept.
Denmark was a naval power some centuries ago. The glory of its kings was mainly based on the navy that was built here almost under the windows of Christiansborg, the kings’ palace. Once this fleet ruled over almost the whole of Scandinavia and at another time it ranged to distant continents and colonies.
We turn our attention to the church on our right, Holmens Kirke.
Holmens Kirke
Holmens Kanal. Hours: In summer 9-14, in winter 9-13. (B3).
Built in 1563 as the anchor factory of the royal shipyard. This Renaissance factory was converted into a church for the navy in 1619 by orders of the great builder Christian IV. Since then the church has been renovated several times. In 1641-1643 it was enlarged by adding two wings, giving it a form of a Greek cross. The long chapel along the canal is from 1705-1708.
Queen Margaret II of Denmark was married here in 1967.
Then we continue along Havnegade to the canal. We cross by the Børsbroen = Stock Exchange Bridge from the island of Bremerholm to the island of Slotsholmen = Palace Island.
Slotsholmen
(B3).
We are on the island that for centuries has been the political center of Denmark, first as the island of the bishop, the the island of the king and now as the island of the parliament and part of government.
The common people of Copenhagen did not always respect the king and court as much as the latter wished. The palace is partly situated on a small islet which formerly was the garbage mound of the city, Skarnholmen or Garbage Island. In 1650 the king had to declare formally that it was forbidden to use the name Skarnholmen for Slotsholmen.
The island is now the address of parliament, the supreme court, the foreign ministry, a few museums, the state archives, the royal library and the stock exchange Børsen.
Børsen = The Stock Exchange, is in front of us.
Børsen
(B3).
The long and low building of the stock exchange was built in Dutch Mannerist style 1619-1640 by Christian IV. It is richly adorned both inside and outside. Most conspicuous is the long and narrow tower woven together of four dragon tails.
We turn left and walk around Børsen into Slotsholmsgade and walk along it, past an ancient government buildings on the left side of the street.
Kanselli
(B3).
In the 18th and 19th C. this building housed in its right wing the Kanselli ministry of finance and economics and in its left wing the Rentekammer ministry of justice, church and education.
We continue along the street to the square in front of Christiansborg palace.
Christiansborg
(B3).
The imposing palace front rises behind an equestrian statue of Frederik VII. We see the balcony on which new kings are proclaimed in Denmark. The present palace was built 1907-1928 after a palace fire of 1884. It is covered in granite from Bornholm island and has lots of copper on the roof as do so many palaces in Copenhagen.
It houses the Danish supreme court, the national parliament, the ministry of foreign affairs and the reception rooms of king and government. Excavations under it have revealed the remains of the 12th C. castle of bishop Absalon. All Danish royal palaces were built in the same place up to the Great Fire of 1794, when the king moved from the ruins to Amalienborg palace.
When Danish kings resided in the town of Roskilde, power in the city was in hands of bishop Absalon’s successors. The Danish king took over in the 15th C. And finally, in times of democracy, parliamentarians and ministers took the place of the king. Christiansborg has thus weathered all the vicissitudes of political history.
We leave the heavy traffic of the square and go through the passage between the palace to the right and the state archives to the left and enter into Rigsdagsgården = The Parliament Courtyard.
Rigsdagsgården
(B3).
The name translates to The Parliament Courtyard. To the right we see the impressive entrance to the Danish parliament, which occupies a part of the former royal palace.
We turn left into the first passage and enter the rose garden of Det Kongelige Bibliotek. To the left side of the garden is the Proviantgården = The Provisions House.
Proviantgården
(B3).
This is the former storehouse of provisions for the royal navy. The busy harbor of the navy was where the peaceful rose garden is now. The Danish kings based their power and wealth on the navy, so they liked to keep an eye on it through their palace windows.
For a long time the Icelandic manuscripts of the Nordic Eddas and Sagas were kept in Proviantgården. By agreement between the states of Denmark and Iceland these manuscripts were returned to their home in Iceland, showing the way for other countries to settle their differences on ownership of antiques that have been removed from their original home in times of trouble or decay.
The rose garden is named after Den Kongelige Bibliotek = The Royal Library, which is behind the garden.
Kongelig Bibliotek
Christians Brygge 8. Hours: Open Monday & Friday-Saturday 9-19, Tuesday-Thursday 9-21. (B3).
Built in 1898-1906 to house the royal or national library. 3,3 million books are kept there and 52,000 manuscripts. It stands in the former entrance to the harbor of the royal navy.
On the third side of the garden there is Tøjhuset. To enter it we return through the passage to Rigsdagsgården, and turn left for the entrance.
Tøjhuset
Tøjhusgade 3. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 10-16. (B3).
Built in 1598-1604 as the barracks of the Royal Guard. It has since 1838 been an arsenal museum, one of the major ones in the world. The display is in one of the longest rooms in Europe, 163 meters, housing endless rows of ancient cannons.
DKr. 20 for adults, DKr. 5 for children.
The royal stables are opposite Tøjhuset entrance. We pass between them and the parliament and enter the equestrian training grounds of the royal palace. From the grounds we enter into the inner courtyard to the palace.
Slotsgården
(B3).
Several museums are entered from the Slotsgården courtyard.
The Royal reception rooms: Guided tours at 11 & 15, in summer Tuesday-Sunday, in winter Tuesday, Thursday & Sunday. Adults DKr. 28, children DKr. 10 The Medieval ruins, including Absalon’s castle: 9:30-15:30, in summer all days, in winter Sunday & Tuesday-Friday. Adults DKr. 15, children Kr. 5. The royal stables: 14-16, in summer Friday-Sunday, in winter Saturday-Sunday.
The meeting rooms of the parliament: Guided tours every hour 10-16, in summer Sunday-Friday, in winter on Sunday. From the outer equestrian training grounds we can enter the Court Theater, now a theater museum, open Wednesday 14-16, Sunday 12-16. Adults DKr. 20, children Kr. 5.
We walk through the grounds away from the palace, come to a canal, cross it on the Marmorbroen = Marble Bridge, and directly from the bridge into Ny Vestergade, where the entrance to Nationalmuseet is on the right hand side.
Nationalmuseet
Ny Vesterbrogade 10. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 10-17. (B3).
One of the oldest and largest national museums in the world is housed in Prinsens Palæ, The Palace of the Prince. It is in fact nine different museums.
The exhibits are mainly archeological, historical and ethnographic, but there is also a coin museum, and a museum of natural history.
Adults DKr. 30, children free.
We continue on Ny Vestergade, cross Vester Voldgade, enter Dantes Plads and cross H.C. Andersens Boulevard to enter Glyptoteket museum.
Glyptoteket
Dantes Plads 7. Hours: Open in summer Tuesday-Sunday 10-16, in winter Tuesday-Saturday 12-15, Sunday 10-16. (B3).
Built in 1888 for one of Europe’s greatest museums of ancient art, mainly Egyptian, Greek and Roman art.
Adults DKr. 15, children free.
We return the same way via Dantes Plads and Ny Vestergade to Marmorbroen bridge. At this side of the bridge we turn left and walk along the canal to the next bridge, Vindebro, cross it and enter into Vindebrogade, where Thorvaldsens Museum is in front of us. Across the canal are the Nybrogade houses.
Nybrogade
(B3).
No. 12 in Nybrogade is one of the proudest Rococo houses of the former bourgeoisie in Copenhagen, richly decorated with sandstone. And nos. 14-20 are typical “firehouses” in Baroque style, built after the Great Fire of 1728.
From Vindebrogade we enter Thorvaldsens Museum
Thorvaldsen Museum
Porthusgade 2. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 10-17. (B3).
Built 1839-1848 around the works of the famous Danish-Icelandic sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen. The exhibition is dominated by serene white Neoclassic works based on Greek mythology.
When we leave the museum we turn left along the Supreme Court part of Christiansborg palace and then again left between the museum and Slotskirken = The Palace Church.
Slotskirken
(B3).
The palace church is in Neoclassic style from 1826. It was recently damaged in a fire and is being restored again.
We are now back at the square in front of Christiansborg palace. We turn left and cross the canal on Højbro to enter Højbro Plads square.
Højbro
(B2).
This is the ancient entrance to the merchants’ town of Copenhagen. A fish market was at the foot of the bridge until recently. A statue reminds us of the fish saleswomen. A greater statue of bishop Absalon, the founder of the city, is in the middle of the square.
From the bridge we have a good view, if we turn around to se Holmens Kirke, Børsen, Christiansborg, Slotskirken and Thorvaldsens Museum, counting from left to right.
We also observe beautiful old houses on the square, at nos. 6, 9 and 17-21. The best seafood restaurants in Copenhagen are here beside the former fish market, at Gammel Strand and at Ved Stranden.
From the bridge we turn left into Gammel Strand. Assistenshuset is in front of us.
Assistenshuset
(B2).
The official pawnbroker house from 1728 now houses the Ministry of Culture.
We go to the right of Assistenshuset and walk into Snaregade.
Snaregade
(B2).
An authentic town street, narrow and winding, full of the quiet charm of olden times. Old business quarters line the street on both sides.
We have entered the old merchants’ and artisans’ Copenhagen. In this district many streets are named after the typical occupation of its residents. We can find Vognmagergade = Coach makers’ Street; Farvergade = Dyers’ Street; Brolæggergade = Bridge Builders’ Street; and Læderstræde = Leather Street. One is named Hyskenstræde in memory of the small Häuschen of Hansa merchants.
Snaregade soon changes into Magstræde. Where the two streets meet we take a short right-hand turn into Knabostræde to the corner of Kompagniestræde to enjoy the atmosphere of former times more fully. Then we walk back on Knabostræde and turn right into Magstræde.
Magstræde
(B3).
Time seems to have stood still in this street. The buildings no. 17 and 19 are considered to be among the oldest, if not the oldest buildings in Copenhagen.
At no. 14 there is Huset = The House, a kind of a club and a social center for youth.
We do not rush here, as Snaregade and Magstræde are probably those streets of the city have succeeded best in preserving the atmosphere of a bygone ear. Their winding prevents us being disturbed by a view to more modern streets and structures. This place closes in on us as though we were in a private world.
At the far end of Magstræde we come to a very small square, Vandkunsten = Water Magic, where the water pump of Christiansborg palace was formerly situated. We turn right into Rådhusstræde = City Hall Street, and walk up to Nytorv = New Square, first, and then into Gammeltorv = Old Square.
Gammeltorv
(B2).
Nytorv and Gammeltorv were formerly the focus of daily life in Copenhagen. They are still lively, but now it is only because pedestrian Strøget runs through them. The City Hall was until the Great Fire of 1795 at the intersection of the squares, just below where Strøget now runs through. A new City Hall was built elsewhere and the two squares were combined.
Community meetings were held on Gammeltorv. Here the court jousted to amuse the public. Here people were flogged and executed, both to amuse and to warn the public. Here of course was the pillory and the jail. Here also the city fathers’ pub was in the City Hall cellar. Here traveling clowns and artists performed. It was fun here.
Noble houses enclose the squares. The courthouse of Copenhagen is here. In the middle of Gammeltorv there is one of the city’s gems, a fountain from 1608-1610. On royal birthdays, golden apples bob in the water. And we can sit down beside the fountain and have a coffee or a beer and watch the world go by.
We turn northeast into Strøget, which here is first called Nygade and then Vimmelskaftet, until we come to Helligåndskirken = The Church of the Holy Spirit, on our right side. We walk around the church into Hemmingsensgade to inspect the adjoining Helligåndshuset behind the church.
Helligåndshuset
Hours: Open workdays 12-16. (B2).
One of the very oldest buildings in town, built in the middle of the 14th C. as the hospital of an Augustine monastery in Catholic times. It is now used as a conference hall.
The church itself is from 1730-1732, built after the Great Fire of 1728.
We continue further on Hemmingsensgade to Gråbrødretorv = Gray Friars’ Square.
Gråbrødretorv
Gråbrødretorv. (B2).
The favorite square of local intellectuals. Students congregate in this pedestrian area, surrounded by tall and narrow, brightly painted 18th C. houses, away from traffic noise and jostling crowds. It is lined with pubs and cafés and restaurants with outdoor sections. It is a closed world, especially when there are musical performances in the open.
We sit by the fountain, on benches, at one of the tables, or stand in groups in the middle of the square. Here people know each other and greet each other. We can also visit rather noisy beer cellars or serious restaurants. This is the most human square in the city center. We are now in the Latin Quarter around the University of Copenhagen, echoing songs for centuries.
The name of the square reminds us of the Fransiscan monks who had a monastery here just beside the Augustine monastery at Helligåndshuset. The remains of the Franciscan monastery can be seen in the Bøf & Ost restaurant in a 16th C. cellar of Gråbrødretorv 13, where there are archeological findings on display in niches in the walls.
We leave the north end of the square through a short street grandly named Kejsergade = Emperor Street. First we have a glimpse into Skindergade to the right to see an old street section before we walk that street to the left. It runs to Gammeltorv and from there continues as Vestergade in gentle curves past tranquil, white houses all the way to Rådhuspladsen = City Hall Square.
Rådhuspladsen
Rådhuspladsen. (A3).
A continuous stream of cars and pedestrians cross this busy square, which connects the old district around Strøget with the modern shops and offices district around Vesterbrogade. The Tivoli Gardens are behind the Copenhagen Corner restaurant building and behind the gardens there is the central railway station.
Extensive changes are being made on Rådhuspladsen to keep motorized traffic away and to make the square more pleasant to pedestrians. The Vesterbrogade traffic artery has been slashed, preventing motorized traffic to connect with H.C. Andersens Boulevard. Bus traffic has been limited to the northern end of the square and cut off from view by a narrow building.
We turn our attention to Rådhuset = The City Hall.
Rådhuset
Rådhuspladsen. Hours: Open Monday-Friday 9:30-15, Thursday -16. (A3).
A famous building, rather eclectic in style, built in 1892-1905 in the Historical style, copying Florentine Renaissance architecture and considered a great scandal at that time.
The main attraction of the city hall is a universal clock made by Jens Olsen. It is just inside the main door and shows many different time zones and the paths of the stars, unparalleled in the world. It is accessible when the building is open and also on Saturday 10-13.
We turn away from the City Hall and walk north along Vester Voldgade to Jarmers Plads.
Jarmers Plads
Jarmers Plads. (A2).
In the middle of the square are the remains of a tower from 1528, a part of the city walls that have made way for the traffic arteries of Vester Voldgade = West Wall Street; Nørre Voldgade = North Wall Street; and Øster Voldgade = East Wall Street.
We turn back into Vester Voldgade and turn left into Studiestræde = Street of Studies, now a street of antiquarians, with some sidewalk book displays. We cross Larsbjørnsstræde and are at the corner of Nørregade where we turn left. Bispegården = The Bishop’s Residence, is at this corner.
Bispegården
(A2).
The Bishop’s Palace was once the City Hall of Copenhagen.
Towering over Bispegården on the other side of Nørregade is Vor Frue Kirke = Our Lady’s Church.
Vor Frue Kirke
Nørregade. Hours: Open 8-17. (A2).
The Classicist cathedral of Copenhagen is stern and cold, rebuilt in 1811-1829 after the British shelling of the city in 1807. The church is best known for Thorvaldsen’s sculptures inside.
To the left of the cathedral is the University of Copenhagen.
Universitetet
Frue Plads. (B2).
The university faces the right side of the cathedral. Behind the facade from 1831-1836 there is a tranquil, medieval atmosphere in the courtyard.
We enter the university courtyard at the left of the entrance to see Konistoriet = The Consistorium.
Konsistoriet
(A2).
The only relic of the Catholic bishopric of the Middle Ages. In its cellar six Romanesque vaults rest on granite columns.
We leave the courtyard and turn right into Nørregade. At Nørregade 13 is a “fire house” from 1728. On the corner of Nørregade and Skt. Pedersstræde there is Sankt Petri Kirke.
Sankt Petri Kirke
Nørregade 15/ Skt. Pedersstræde. Hours: Open during services. (A2).
The oldest church of the city, first mentioned in 1304, rebuilt several times after city fires. The present look is mainly from 1731 and it has a remarkable sepulchral chapel from 1681-1683.
On this side is Kannibalen = The Cannibal, the university students’ dining hall. The name implies that the food has not always been outstanding.
We turn right and walk along Krystalgade past Daells department store to Fiolstræde, where we turn left.
Fiolstræde
(A2).
This is a pedestrian street of hawkers’ stands and book-cases of antiquarians.
After looking around we turn back and walk south on Fiolstræde, past a nicely renovated half-timbered house on our left and the university library on our right. We arrive again at Vor Frue Kirke, this time at the back of the cathedral. We stop to observe the church and university from a new angle before we turn left into Store Kannikestræde = Great Choir Brothers’ Street.
Store Kannikestræde
(B2).
The street of student hostels, the heart of the Latin Quarter. Most of the houses have for centuries been directly or indirectly connected with students and the university. Famous hostels are here on both sides, Borchs Kollegium at no. 12, Elers Kollegium at no. 9 and Admiral Gjeddes Gård at no. 10. We have a quick look into the serene yard of Borchs Kollegium.
At the far end of the street to the left we arrive at the Regensen hostel and enter its courtyard.
Regensen
Købmagergade. (B2).
The largest and most important student hostel in the area, built in 1623-1628 and partly rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1728. The dominating red brick walls date from that year. Here we can rest at the central lime tree in the courtyard.
Rundetårn looms over Regensen.
We leave the courtyard, continue on the street, cross Købmagergade and enter Rundetårn = The Round Tower.
Rundetårn
Købmagergade. Hours: Open in summer Monday-Saturday 10-20 (-22 on Tuesday & Wednesday) & Sunday 12-20, in winter Monday-Saturday 10-17 & Sunday 12-16. (B2).
A combined observatory and a church tower of Trinitatis Kirke, built in 1656. It is 36 meters in height and 15 meters in diameter. They way up the tower is along a spiral road, not a staircase. Empress Catherine of Russia in 1716 drove up in a coach while her husband, Czar Peter the Great, went up on horseback. We know of no other royal enterprises of that kind in later centuries.
The road is easy on the feet. We are soon at the top, where we have an excellent view over the roofs and towers of the old center. We get a good idea of how cramped the city center is inside the former city walls.
The observatory in the tower is open in summer on Sunday 13-16, in winter Tuesday-Wednesday 19-22. Adults DKr. 15, children Kr. 5.
When leaving the tower we turn left into pedestrian Købmagergade and stroll along this shopping street in the direction of Strøget. Before we reach Strøget we turn left into Silkegade and continue into Antonigade, turning again left, into Gammel Mønt.
Gammel Mønt
(B2).
This area was once one of the worst slums of Copenhagen, full of dangerous passages. In a side street the illustrious sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen was brought up by quarreling parents.
This is an area of Brandhuse = Fire Houses. These are the houses that were built immediately after the great fires of Copenhagen in the 18th C. Some of the half-timbered houses are even older than that.
We return on Gammel Mønt almost to Antonigade and turn left into Grønnegade to Gothersgade where we turn right into Kongens Nytorv where we started this walk. The next walk also starts here.
Frederikssted
The center of Copenhagen was enlarged in the 18th C. The addition constitutes the northern part of the center. It is sometimes called Frederikssted, planned by strict and modern rules at that time, with broad streets and respectable houses. But this development lacks the zest of the old center. The liveliest street is the shopping street of Store Kongensgade.
The area is interesting for tourists because of the Nyhavn harbor, the Amalienborg royal palace, the Kastellet fortress with the statue of Den Lille Havfrue and also because of the many parks and museums in that area.
We start and end this walk on Kongens Nytorv, the same square that was the start and the end of our walk through the oldest part of central Copenhagen. We already know about square and its surroundings, so we immediately cross the square from Angleterre hotel and enter the Nyhavn harbor on its left side. Kanneworffske Hus is on the corner of Bredgade and Store Strandstræde.
Kanneworffske Hus
(B2).
Do notice the quaint corner angle of the houses on the opposite corners of Store Strandstræde.
To see some houses from the latter part of the 18th C. we can walk along Store Strandstræde to the corner of Lille Strandstræde where we take a sharp right turn and walk that street back to Nyhavn. We take note of nos. 3 and 18 at Store Strandstræde and nos. 14 and 6 at Lille Strandstræde.
Back in Nyhavn we observe the houses at Nyhavn to the right and left of Lille Strandstræde.
Nyhavn
(C2).
The harbor was built in 1673. The oldest Nyhavn house is no. 9, from 1681. We do not miss an unusual clock on the roof of no. 11 and an old pub sign from 1803 on no. 23. Many pubs are there, but the foreign languages you hear do not belong to sailors but to tourists. There are no fights any more, and no knives flash in the air.
We should take our time in walking the length of Nyhavn. There are many interesting, amusing or quaint details worth inspecting and lots of bars where to look for a drink. Some good restaurants are also here.
Nyhavn also has some things to tell us about H.C. Andersen.
H. C. Andersen
There are other memories than those of merry sailors connected with Nyhavn. The teller of fairy stories, H.C. Andersen, liked this street. He wrote his first stories in no. 20, lived with interruptions 1854-1864 at no. 67 and spent his last two years at no. 18.
Arriving at the tip of Nyhavn we have a good view over the inner harbor of Christianshavn.
From Nyhavn we turn left into Kvæsthusgade and then left again into Skt. Annæ Plads. We see the signs of a few good hotels on this short part of the walk. We continue on that street, cross Toldbodgade and turn right into Amaliegade and walk along it all the way under the overpass to the square in front of Amalienborg, the royal palace.
Amalienplads
(C2).
The octagonal Rococo square from 1749-1760, surrounded with four identical palaces, is one of the main attractions of Copenhagen. The royal guards with their enormous fur hats are some of the most frequently photographed subjects in the city. They come marching along Amaliegade into the square for the ceremonial changing of the guards at 12:00.
The four palaces merit our attention.
Amalienborg
(C2).
Four identical Rococo palaces built in 1749-1760 for four noblemen. Together they became the royal palace of Denmark after the old palace in Slotsholmen burned down in 1794.
Clockwise from Amaliegade, from which we entered the square, there is first the palace for royal receptions and banquets, then the palace of the late King Christian X, then the palace of Queen Ingrid, widow of King Frederik IX, and finally the palace of the present Queen Margaret II. The royal banner over that palace shows whether she is in residence.
King Christians VIII Palace, Danish Glücksborg royalty’s private quarters, are open 11-16 some days in winter. Inquire at hotel. Adults DKr. 35, children Kr. 5.
From the middle of the square we can see Marmorkirken = The Marble church, and we walk in that direction.
Marmorkirken
Hours: Open Monday-Friday, 11-14, Wednesday -18,Saturday-Sunday 12-16. (C2).
The real name of this Neo-Baroque church is Frederikskirke. It has one of the largest cupolas in the world, 45 meters in height and 30 meters in diameter, covered with green copper. The building, started in 1746, was not finished until 1894.
Adults DKr. 20, children Kr. 10. The cupola is accessible Saturday at 11, DKr. 20.
From the church we go back to Bredgade and turn left into that street where we soon come to Kunstindustrimuseet = Museum of Handicrafts, on the right side of the street.
Kunstindustrimuseet
Bredgade 68. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 13-16. (C2).
Formerly Frederiks Hospital, now a museum of old and new handicrafts, Danish and foreign. It can be entered both from Bredgade and Amaliegade.
Adults DKr. 30, children free.
Back in the street we turn right and walk along Bredgade to Esplanaden where we turn right. Frihedsmuseet = The Resistance Museum, is on the other side of the street.
Frihedsmuseet
Churchill-parken. Hours: Open in summer Tuesday-Saturday 10-16, Sunday 10-17. (C1).
The small building exhibits memories from the struggle of the Danish resistance during the 2nd World War.
We go past the museum into the Churchill park with the English Church. On its right there is the Gefion fountain.
Gefion
(C1).
The sculpture shows the Nordic goddess Gefjun, who changed her sons into bulls to draw a plow that she used to carve Denmark out of southern Sweden, according to mythology.
We walk on a pedestrian road from the Gefion fountain to Langelinie, pass Langelinie Pavilionen and continue to Den Lille Havfrue = The Little Mermaid.
Den lille Havfrue
Langelinie. (C1).
Edward Eriksen’s sculpture from 1913 is the internationally known landmark and sign of Copenhagen.
Beyond The Little Mermaid the street turns away from the harbor. We walk over a bridge and then turn left off the street to Kastellet = The Citadel.
Kastellet
Langelinie. Hours: Open 6-sunset. (C1).
The citadel fortress of Copenhagen, built 1662-1665 above an older fortress. The outer ramparts are partly destroyed but the inner pentagon is still intact.
There are interesting gates and the Kastelskirken Church, which is cleverly connected with the jail in such a way that the prisoners could hear services without leaving their cells.
The most beautiful part of Kastellet is the windmill on the western front.
We again cross Churchill park to Esplanaden, where we turn right and walk along it until it ends at Store Kongensgade. On that corner we see to the right a part of the Nyboder district from 1631. Then we turn left into Store Kongensgade and then immediately right into Skt. Paulsgade. On the right side we soon come to Nyboder = New Apartments.
Nyboder
(B1).
Christian IV had these long houses built for the royal navy’s employees in 1631. The lower houses are original, the others have been enlarged.
We continue on Skt. Paulsgade past the Skt. Paulskirke to the end and turn right into Rigensgade and then left into Stokhusgade, named after a notorious prison that took over from Bremerholm in 1741. Nothing is to be seen of the old prison, as the technical university of Copenhagen has been built here. We cross Øster Voldgade and the railway overpass to Østre Anlæg.
Østre Anlæg
(B1).
A beautiful garden, laid out in the old fortress moat. The original form of the moat can still be seen.
We walk through the garden in the direction of Statens Museum for Kunst = The State Museum of Art in the southern corner of the garden.
Statens Museum for Kunst
Sølvgade 48-50. Hours: Open Tuesday-Sunday 10-16:30, Wednesday -21. (B1).
It has a good collection of old masters, especially Dutch. There are important works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Cranach, Tintoretto, Mantegna, Titian, Hogarth, Dürer, Braque, Matisse, Picasso and others. There are also Danish masters.
We cross Sølvgade to Botanisk Have = The Botanical Garden.
Botanisk have
Gothersgade 128. Hours: Open in summer 8:30-18, in winter 8:30-16. (B1).
25,000 different plants, among them rain forest plants grown indoors in the greenhouse Palmhuset. The garden has a rosary, a rock garden and perennials.
The 1872 glass conservatory Palmhuset is in the northeastern part of the botanic garden, inspired by Crystal Palace in London. It is open 10-15.
The cactus and orchid house is open Saturday-Sunday 13-15.
We cross Øster Voldgade and walk back to the corner of Sølvgade where we enter Kongens Have = The King’s Garden, near its north corner to visit the Rosenborg palace.
Rosenborg Slot
Øster Voldgade 4A. Hours: Open in winter Tuesday, Friday & Sunday 11-14, in September & October all days 11-15. (B2).
Kongens Have is the oldest park in the city and one of the largest. There are beautiful roses and lime trees. The biggest jewel, though, is the Rosenborg palace, near the western edge of the garden.
Rosenborg Slot = Palace of Roses, was built 1606-1617 in Renaissance style by that tireless builder Christian IV. The palace was the royal summer residence and later became the royal reception palace until it was changed into a royal museum in 1858.
The crown jewels and other royal memorabilia are exhibited. Open November-August Tuesday-Sunday 11-14, September-October all days 11-15.
We leave the park by one of the south gates and cross Gothersgade, then walk that street to the left straight to Kongens Nytorv, the starting and ending point of this walk.
Christianshavn
(C3).
The last walk through the old center of Copenhagen, which was inside the former city walls, covers the part that is on the other side of the inner harbor, on the island of Amager.
There are some romantic canal scenes, a few important churches, old harbor buildings that have been converted into modern use, and the semi-free state of Christiania.
We take a bus or a taxi or walk over Knippelsbro bridge to the corner of Torvegade and Strandgade. We then first turn to the right in the direction of Christians Kirke at the end of Strandgade.
Christians Kirke
Strandgade 1-2. Hours: Oopen in summer 8-18, in winter 8-17. (B3).
A Rococo church from 1755-1759, flanked by small pavilions. Magnificient Rococo interior with storeyed galleries.
On the corner, at Strandgade 14, is the old town hall of the Christianshavn district.
We walk back Strandgade to the north, cross Torvegade and continue on Strandgade. When we come to Skt. Annægade the palace of Asiatisk Kompagni = Asia Company, is opposite that street.
Asiatisk Kompagni
(C3).
The palace from 1740 evokes memories of the golden age when the Danish fleet roamed the oceans and Denmark was a colonial power. The palace now houses the Foreign Ministry.
Next to Asiatisk Kompagni there is Gammel Dok opposite Bådmandsstræde.
Gammel Dok
Strangade 27 B. Hours: Open 10-17. (C3).
An old warehouse has been artistically converted into offices, a museum and a café with a good harbor view.
Adults DKr. 20, children free.
We look into the backyard of no. 44 where there were artillery barracks, now changed into flats, before we continue along Strandgade. Then we continue on Strandgade to the canal, where we turn right. Here we enter the Amsterdam of Copenhagen. We walk along the canal to Overgaden Neden Vandet.
Christianshavn Kanal
(C3).
This part of Copenhagen was laid out in 1618 by Dutch architects and engineers summoned by the repeatedly mentioned super-builder Christian IV. It reminds us of the Amsterdam canals.
At the corner of Overgaden Neden Vandet we have an excellent view along Christianshavn Kanal with freshly painted boats nestling at the quays and old houses and warehouses nestling in the streets. We note the Dutch hoists on the narrow house fronts.
At the canal corner we turn right into Overgaden Neden Vandet and walk to Skt. Annægade, where we turn left to the Vor Frelsers Kirke = Our Savior’s Church.
Vor Frelsers Kirke
Sankt Annægade 29. Hours: Open in summer 9-16:30, in winter 9-15:30. (C3).
The unique spiral tower was added in 1747-1752 to the already existing Baroque church from 1682-1696. The spire is 87 meters, second only to the city hall spire.
We can climb the tower on the inside and the spire on the outside in April 1966 when tower has been opened after reparations.
On the other side of the church we turn into Prinsessegade, cross Bådmandsstræde and are on the lookout to the entrance of Christiania on the right side of Prinsessegade.
Christiania
(C3).
A kind of a free state of young people who occupied these barracks of 170 houses in 18 hectares of central land when they were abandoned in 1971 and were to be torn down. It has evolved into one of the main tourist attractions of Copenhagen. The middle-aged hippies and other eccentrics of Christiania do not frown upon square-looking and camera-toting visitors.
After much haggling between the squatters and the authorities the experiment of Christiania was reluctantly accepted on a temporary basis. Christiania has since been a colorful part of town, with inexpensive restaurants and experimental theaters, lots of music and some eccentric buildings.
The place was somewhat run down and soiled, only a shadow of its former self but has recently become invigorated through tourist commercialization.
We cross Christiania to the other side and arrive at the old city ramparts where we turn right.
Ramparts
(C3).
In 1659 these ramparts saved Copenhagen from a Swedish onslaught. Now they have been changed into peaceful public parks. We turn right and saunter relaxedly along them, getting invigorated by the change from the Christiania garishness.
When we come to Overgaden Over Vandet, we leave the ramparts and continue along Christianshavn Kanal.
Overgaden
(C3).
On this side of the canal there are many beautiful old houses, mostly built by rich merchants in the 18th C.
In no. 58 there is Orlogsmuseet = The Royal Danish Naval Museum, open Tuesday-Sunday 12-16.
Arriving at Christianshavn Torv at the corner of the Torvegade traffic artery, we have finished this short sightseeing walk and are ready to take a taxi or a bus or to walk over Knippelsbro bridge to the mainland side of Copenhagen.
1996
© Jónas Kristjánsson
