Ferðir

Grænskattur á flugið

Ferðir

Flug er orðið of ódýrt. Við fljúgum án tilefnis. Til að eyða hálfum öðrum sólarhring í Prag. Sumir fara í erindisleysu mánaðarlega til útlanda. Aðrir reka erindi, þótt léttara sé að nota myndfundasíma. Til dæmis hjá ríkinu. Við getum ekki lengi hagað okkur svona. Allt þetta flug framleiðir mikinn koltvísýring og flýtir fyrir ragnarökum. Betra er að hægja á þessu með því að leggja grænan skatt á flug. Til dæmis tíuþúsundkall á miðann innan álfu, tuttuguþúsund krónur í milliálfuflugi, hundraðþúsund á hvert einkaflug. Bezt væri að gera þetta sameiginlega, til dæmis á vegum Evrópusambandsins.

Miðja Berlínar

Ferðir

Miðja Berlínar er hornið á Unter den Linden og Friðriksstræti. Þaðan sker eins km radíusinn Brandenborgarhliðið, Potsdamer Platz, Safnaeyju og bakka árinnar Spree. Ekki er nauðsynlegt að búa á Adlon fyrir € 330 til að geta farið fótgangandi um hverfi 10117. Það er heiti hverfis 101 í Berlín. Enn nær borgarmiðju er Jolly Hotel Vivaldi á € 149 og Hotel Berlin Mitte á € 137. Hvort tveggja er í Michelin-klassa. Ódýrara hótel á svæðinu er Mercure Checkpoint Charlie á € 129. Fær fín meðmæli í TripAdvisor og 4,5 stig af 5 mögulegum. Frambærileg hótel fást ekki á lægra verði þar fremur en hér.

Radíus menningar

Ferðir

Margar stórborgir Evrópu eru einn km í radíus um borgarmiðju, Vínarborg, Bruxelles, Kaupmannahöfn, Amsterdam, Madrid. Oft voru þær áður umluktar borgarmúr, sem var um sex km að lengd. Utar húktu varnarlaus Breiðholt og Grafarvogar. Reykjavík er ein af þessum borgum. Ef eins kílómetra hringur er dreginn kringum Lækjartorg, er jaðar hringsins við Snorrabraut, Ánanaust og Hringbraut. Þetta er auðvitað hverfi númer 101, nafli heimsins í flestum stórborgum. Aðeins fáar borgir eru stærri, París og New York. Menningarsaga okkar hefur verið háð innan hinna þröngu hringja. Auðvitað í hverfum 101.

Hótel í Kvosinni

Ferðir

Væri ég ferðamaður, vildi ég búa sem næst borgarmiðjunni Lækjartorgi. Þar er fjöldi hótela á næsta leiti. Í Pósthússtræti eru Hótel Borg, þar sem meðalverðið hefur undanfarið numið $ 306. Og Hótel 1919, þar sem það hefur verið $ 294, hvort tveggja samkvæmt TripAdvisor. Ódýrari herbergi eru á Hótel Centrum í Aðalstræti, á $ 220. Svipað verð er á Castle House við Skálholtsstíg, $ 211. Öll þessi hótel fá fjögur gæðastig, sem er það hæsta í bænum. Þau fá vinsamleg ummæli hótelgesta. Annars er algengt að hótel í miðborginni kosti um og yfir $ 400. Viðbrögð notenda þar eru lakari.

Morgunverður á flugvallarhóteli

Ferðir

Helmingur morgunverðargesta voru viðgerðamenn tækjasala áleiðis í útköll. Þeir voru í strigaskóm og gallabuxum. Helmingur afgangsins voru sölumenn sömu fyrirtækja. Þeir voru í blankskóm, ljósbláum skyrtum og bleiserjökkum. Fimmtándi hver var kona. Dæmigerður morgunverður á hótelinu við Stansted-flugstöðina. Þetta er eins og fyrir mörgum áratugum, þegar ég tók þátt í að kaupa prenttækni. Ég kannaðist við týpurnar og hef meiri samúð með viðgerðarmönnunum. Flugvallarhótel er skrítinn samkomustaður fólks, sem á ekkert sameiginlegt, er að koma og fara. Enginn gistir meira en eina nótt.

Þráðlaust á herbergjum

Ferðir

Radisson-hótelið á Stansted flugvelli er við hlið flugstöðvarinnar, vel í sveit sett. Það er svo alþjóðlegt, að þú veizt ekki hvar þú ert í heiminum, þegar þú vaknar. Sumt er gott við slíkt hótel. Þau vita vel, hvað gestir vilja. Þar þarf ég ekki að fara í móttökuna til að nota tölvu. Þráðlaust netsamband er í öllum herbergjum. Þar er buxnapressa í hverju herbergi, svo og straujárn. Líka kaffivél og peningaskápur. Svo er gaman að stjóranum, sem hefur á stefnuskrá sinni, að kúnninn hafi alltaf rétt fyrir sér. Alþjóðavæðingin hefur sína kosti, sem koma í ljós á Radisson við Stansted.

Netokur á hótelum

Ferðir

Ég er búinn að ferðast dálítið um nágrenni Lissabon. Hvar sem ég hef gist á hóteli, hef ég fengið aðgang að heitum reit, þráðlausu netsambandi. Alls staðar hefur aðgangurinn verið ókeypis, enda tilkostnaður enginn. Fortaleza Guincho var með annað kerfi, samkrull með Og Vodafone um að plokka gesti. Þar þurfti sambandið að fara um hendur símaokrara, sem tók stóran pening fyrir. Ef þið pantið pláss á erlendu hóteli, spyrjið endilega um þetta. Hvort þráðlaust netsamband sé ókeypis eða kosti formúu. Hafnið hótelum, sem hleypa að símaokri. Ýtið okrurunum þannig út af markaði hótelgistinga.

Þráðlaust vefsamband

Ferðir

Þráðlaust vefsamband er orðið algengt á erlendum hótelum. Áður varð að nota rándýran gemsa til að ná GPRS-sambandi eða berjast við framandi lyklaborð á hóteltölvum. Okrarar í símaþjónustu voru raunar búin að prísa GPRS út af markaði. Og lyklaborðin eru skrítin í Portúgal, annar hver lykill á óvæntum stað. Núna koma menn með eigin tölvur, hafa öll innbyggð þægindi þeirra og þurfa ekki að borga neitt. Svona á það að vera. Gallinn er, að tollurinn í Leifsstöð telur, að menn séu að smygla tölvum, sem duttu úr framleiðslu fyrir tveimur árum. Tollurinn á að hætta þessu tölvu-smyglrugli sínu.

Grétu sig í svefn

Ferðir

Á TripAdvisor er skelfileg lýsing á hótelum á Íslandi, einnig utan borgar. Sögufrægt KEA á Akureyri fær þar á baukinn, herbergi sögð lítil og sóðaleg. Álitsgjafar TripAdvisor hafa líka slæma reynslu af Icelandair Flughotel í Keflavík. Fosshótel Laugar í Reykjavík er sagt vera verra en vítishola, gestirnir grétu sig í svefn. Fosshótel Húsavík er sagt vera þreytt. Hótel Látrabjarg í Örlygshöfn fær niðrandi ummæli fyrir okur og lélegan aðbúnað. Ferðamálaráð þarf að hafa frumkvæði í að koma slíkum upplýsingum áfram til viðkomandi aðila. Ófært er, að tugur hótela varpi skugga á landið allt.

Hótelin í borginni

Ferðir

Hótel Loftleiðir fær lága einkunn á TripAdvisor. Herbergin sögð gömul og léleg, maturinn í veitingasalnum óætur. Verri umsögn fá sum lítil hótel. Eigandi Hotel Atlantis á Grensásvegi sagður ruddalegur í orðbragði og umgengni, húsnæði í lamasessi, skelfileg lífsreynsla segir einn. Næstverst var sagt gistiheimilið Adam á Skólavörðustíg. Eigandinn sagður hræðilegur, með gistingu í útikofa, hafi aðeins áhuga á að hrifsa peninga. Einn sagði það versta hótel ævi sinnar. Turninn TopCityLine Grand í Sigtúni fékk langversta einkunn, skelfilega lýsingu á framkvæmdum, sóðaskap og vanhæfni.

Amsterdam excursions

Ferðir

South Holland
We can explore the vicinity of Amsterdam by going on bus tours and see most of what will be described below. But a rented car can be convenient on the good and well marked roads of Holland, in addition to giving more freedom to move about without strict time schedules.
Now we are going to visit the south of Holland, including Aalsmeer, Keukenhof, Delft, Haag and Madurodam. The places described are in a distance of only one to three quarters of an hour from the city.
We take A4 south from Amsterdam, pass the airport Schiphol and turn a little later into a side road to Aalsmeer.

Aalsmeer
Hours: Open 8-11:30, closed Saturday & Sunday.
Once a fishing village, now the location of the biggest flower market in the world. We are traveling early as the main action is at 8-10. From a glassed-in gallery we can see down into three auction halls where buyers from all corners of the world sit on banks with a clear view to the stage where the flowers are exhibited.
The buyers have a microphone to ask questions and a button to make offers with. All this is regulated by a computer. The flowers come on rail wagons to the stage. A giant clock above the stage starts and gives the price in units from 100 down to 0. The buyer who first presses his button gets the flowers at the price the clock is showing.
He who is too quick buys to expensively and he who is too slow gets nothing. By this method seven million DFl. change hands each year. Surprisingly it is not tulip that holds first place, but the rose. With this intelligent auction system the lots of the day are sold at an extreme speed and to the greatest amusement of onlookers. Then the flowers go the airport to be exported.
We return to A4, change to A44 and soon take a side road to Lisse. There we arrive at Keukenhof.

Keukenhof
Hours: Open 8-20 end of March – end of May
A flower show and sale on 28 hectares in a beautiful forest. Take note that it is only open two months a year. No one who comes here can forget the ocean of flowers both in hothouses and out in the gardens.
The flowers are tastefully arranged in seemingly endless rows in all the colors of the rainbow, six millions of them. No flower show in the world is as big as this one. Most of the major producers in Holland have a bit of land there.
We now drive south along A44 to Haag and from there on A13 to Delft. We drive to the central market and find a parking place near it.

Delft
We can start our visit to Delft by walking to Oudekerk church and finding restaurant Prinsenkelder opposite the church on the other side of the Oude Delft canal. After lunch we visit the Prinsenhof museum above the restaurant. Both are in the palace of William the Silent of Oranje, who lived here when he was founding the Dutch republic and until he was murdered in 1584.
The center of Delft is one of the most beautiful towns in Holland. We should therefore take time to stroll along the canals to observe the trees on the banks and the nicely curved drawbridges.
There are also some historical buildings to see in Delft.
First we turn our attention to Oudekerk.

Oudekerk Delft
From the first half of the 13th C.
We walk a short way south along Oude Delft and enjoy the canal view. Then we turn left into the market in front of Nieuwe Kerk.

Nieuwe Kerk Delft
The lively market reaches all the way from the church to the town hall. In the market square there still are Boterhuis, the butter house, and Waag, the weights house.
Nieuwe Kerk is a Gothic church from 1430 and had then been a building site for half a century as many churches of that time. It is the resting place of the house of Oranje-Nassau, the Dutch royal dynasty. William the Silent rests there and Queen Beatrix will be buried there when her time comes.
We find the car and head out of Delft on A13, following signposts to De Porceleyne Fles.

Porceleyne Fles
This porcelain became famous at the end of the 16th C., just when the golden age was about to start. It was influenced by porcelain making in Rhineland and Italy. Chinese influence was added in the 17th C. Then Delftware became known the world over. We see here how it is produced.
Blue and white are the dominant colors of Delft porcelain. Many people will find the designs rather old-fashioned. But probably they are meant to stay like that.
Another Dutch porcelain tradition is lesser known even if it is sometimes called a better one. It is Makkum from the northeast of Holland. But international interest is focused on Delft. And Porceleyne Fles is the most important producer in Delft. Therefore the short visit to the town is a good reason to have a look at its production.
We turn around on A13 and return to Haag, all the way to the city center. We try to find a parking place near Binnenhof.

Haag
Haag has many things to see. We start be going to Mauritshuis, then continue to Binnenhof with its Ridderzaal, and end in the suburbs at Madurodam.
Mauritshuis is in front of Binnenhof.

Mauritshuis
Hours: Open 10-17, Sunday 11-17
Built in 1644 in a late Renaissance style, the Mannerist style. It has greatly influenced the history of architecture in Holland and Scandinavia. Initially it was a nobleman’s house but now it is used for the art collection of the royal family. It contains paintings by Rembrandt, Frans Hals, Breughel and Rubens.
Now we enter the Binnenhof palace complex.

Binnenhof
The central courtyard of the palace is best known for being the place where national hero Oldenbarnevelt was executed in 1619. The place is dominated by the building Ridderzaal.
We enter Ridderzaal.

Ridderzaal
Hours: Open 10-16, July – August 9-16
Built by Count Floris V is 1280 and is thus more than seven centuries old. There the queen of Holland opens parliament every year. She arrives in a golden carriage from her palace on the outskirts of Haag, Huis ten Bosch, the house in the woods.
Ridderzaal is mainly a great hall with powerful beams and stained glass windows. It is often considered to be the most beautiful Gothic building in Northern Europe. Behind it there is another hall, Rolzaal.
Finally we leave Binnenhof by the west gate and walk to the square Groenmarkt in front of the main church, Grotekerk, before we return to our car to follow signs to Madurodam, which is midway between Haag and the ocean resort of Scheveningen. It is easiest to follow first Koningskade and then straight on Ramweg on the canal bank.

Madurodam
A doll house town founded by Maduro in memory of his son who died in a Nazi concentration camp in 1945. The small houses are replicas of many famous buildings in Holland, all of them in the scale 1:25. We see the railroad system in working condition, the international airport Schiphol, a canal quarter from Amsterdam and small villages clustering around market places.
In the evening the lights come on in the houses and on the lampposts. Then the garden really sparkles.
If we had more time in Haag we could also visit Vredespaleis, the palace of peace, which is on the other side of the Scheveningen wood, housing the International Court of Justice.
We now continue on our way to Scheveningen.

Scheveningen
Famous for being one of the biggest fishing harbors in Europe, worth a visit.
It is now late and we take the road for a three quarters of an hour trip back to Amsterdam.

North Holland
We plan this one day trip through the area north of Amsterdam for a Friday as it is the day of the weekly cheese market in Alkmaar. On the road we will also visit Zaanse Schans, Volendam and Marken.
We drive directly to Alkmaar, driving on roads A10, then A8 and finally A9. In Alkmaar we find a parking place near the church.

Alkmaar
An old town with many quaint houses.
After sightseeing in Alkmaar center we walk the market street Langestraat to Waag and Kaasmarkt.

Kaasmarkt
Hours: Friday end of April – middle of September 10-12
Cheeses from Edam and Gouda lie in orderly rows on the square. The buyer and seller haggle about the price by clapping their palms together. When agreement is reached the carrier, kaasdragers, come with gondola barrows and load them with cheese, often 160 kilograms at a time. Then they run in a strange step to the scales where the cheese is weighted.
The kaasdragers wear white clothes and red, blue, yellow or green caps according to what chapter of the carriers’ guild they belong to.
Cheese is not sold this way any more. But the theater goes on, mainly to attract tourists. And the latter like it very much. It is really a nice little play about older times.
Now we turn our attention to the Waag.

Waag
The house of weights, Waag, is an 14th C. church.
We return to the car and drive the same roads most of the way back to Amsterdam. First we make a stop in Zaanstad, where there is Zaandijk with the Zaanse Schans museum.

Zaanse Schans
Since 1950 many old houses and windmills have been transplanted here to show how life was in earlier centuries. The houses are really lived-in and the windmills are in daily use.
This village is around Kalveringdijk canal and a few of its side canals. Most of the houses are of wood, painted green and black and white. The mills have various purposes, such as sawing wood, making paint, vegetable oil and mustard.
The village also has old-fashioned shops, a bakery and a wooden-shoe factory. A boat can be rented for a trip on the river Zaan. This is a romantic setting and we can linger over afternoon coffee at a café on the canal bank.
In the end we must head from Zaanstad toward Amsterdam. On the way we turn to E10 to get to the villages Marken and Volendam on the banks of the inland sea, IJsselmeer.

Volendam
When the bay Zuiderzee was changed into an inland sea IJsselmeer, the fishermen of the villages of Volendam and Marken lost their traditional livelihood. Tourism came to the rescue. The inhabitants live by dressing in national costumes and selling souvenirs to tourists. In reality this is a sham, but the traveler can easily close his eyes to that.
Volendam is on the mainland side and the people are Catholic. The small harbor is charming and more so the quaint little houses behind the main street along the strand.
We take the road to the other village, Marken.

Marken
On an island opposite Volendam, now connected to the mainland by a bridge. The people are Calvinist and wear costumes that are different from those of the Catholics in Volendam. It does not surprise you to find out that they also use another dialect, only a few kilometers away.
The Dutch language is not a lately developed Low German. It is an old language which already during the upheavals in Europe in the wake of the fall of the Roman empire had become a special Germanic language, a near relative to the language of the Anglons and Saxons who settled on the British Islands. Linguistically it is midway between English and German.
We are not in a hurry. When the afternoon passes on, the buses with the tourists leave and we get some peace to stroll around in quiet to inspect the small harbor, the green and black houses and the beautiful embroidery in the window curtains.
Finally we must return for the half an hour trip to Amsterdam.

Utrecht
Road A2 runs for two hours south from Amsterdam to Utrecht, the old university city where the Dutch Republic was proclaimed in 1579 as a defense alliance against Spain. Its university library contains many old manuscripts.
We try to park near the Oude Gracht canal.

Oude Gracht
The coziest place in Utrecht. The bank is on two levels With sidewalk cafés and restaurants protected from automotive traffic.

Schiphol
We usually say good-by to Holland at Schiphol, the international airport on the outskirts of Amsterdam. It is one of the things the Dutch are justly proud of. We shall not forget the duty free shop for years respected for being the best in the world. Wine, spirits and tobacco are less expensive than in most other duty free stores.
We buy smoked eel and wind-dried ham in convenient airtight covers, French patés and Dutch cheeses and some other things for gourmets. We also buy real Havana cigars like Montechristo. They are kept here in special conditions and are available at better prices than elsewhere. Also there is a lot of electronic gadgets. And of course perfumes and flowers.
Every month special discounts are on many goods at the airport.

1984 og 1992
© Jónas Kristjánsson

London walks

Ferðir

Shopping

Most shops are open 9-17 Monday-Saturday. Some open one hour earlier and close one hour later. Some close earlier on Saturday. Covent Garden shops are also open on Sunday. Late shopping until 19 or 20 is on Thursday in the West End, elsewhere on Wednesday. In many shops foreign visitors can fill out a form for later refund of VAT.

London really shines when it comes to specialty shops. Some of them date from the last century or even before that. Antique shops as an example are categorized in dozens of special subjects, epochs or countries. Most of these shops are in the St James’s district and the eastern part of the Mayfair district.

It is a joy to shop or window-shop in old, famous and often expensive shops, not maybe for buying anything but for sightseeing them as other important landmarks of the city. And ancient commerce in London is no less interesting than old churches, museums and sculpture.

We start our guided tour through London shopping in front of St James’s Palace, on the corner of Pall Mall and St James’s Street.

Hardy

61 Pall Mall. (D3).

One of the most famed sport fishing shops in the world is on the Pall Mall side of the corner, at no. 61. You can buy there the most expensive rod-wheels obtainable, of course specially made by hand for the establishment as most other things on display, such as rods of fiberglass and carbon threads.

Almost at the other end of Pall Mall, near Haymarket, is the other famous house for sport fishing, Farlow, at no. 56, which has an edge in being a purveyor to the Royal Court. Even those who do not believe in royalty must admit that it knows a lot about salmon fishing.

We walk around the corner into St James’s Street.

Berry Brothers

3 St James’s Street. (D3).

The oldest wine boutique in London, from the 18th C., at no. 3. The furnishings are ancient and the floor is far from horizontal. Inside there is the famous scale where renowned customers and weighted.

Two other things are of note here: All the wine is available on the premises. And it is less expensive than in most other wine shops in London. On our last visit Chateau Langloa-Barton 1971 did only cost £12 and Kiedricher Sandgrub only £7.

Alongside there is another important shop.

Lock

6 St James’s Street. (D3).

A hat shop from 1765, at no. 6. One of the landmarks of London is the ancient equipment resembling an old typewriter, which is still used to record the shape of the clients’ heads. After measurement a suitable hat is heated and then molded in a form fitting the client.

This is the place where the first bowler in the world was made. But nowadays they also sell sixpensers. The shop also boasts of an unique collection of old hats.

A few steps farther along the street we come to another shop of note.

Lobb

9 St James’s Street. (D3).

This shop at no. 9 has made shoes for the royal family for several decades. In the small shop there is a thrilling smell of leather and we can observe the shoemakers at their work. Replicas of customers’ feet are cut in wood and all shoes are handmade.

They cost at least £150 the pair and you have to wait for them for six months. But they are also supposed to last for a decade with proper maintenance.

Next we turn right into King Street.

Christie‘s

8 King Street. (D3).

One of the two world-renowned auction houses, at no. 8. Mondays they usually auction pottery and porcelain; Tuesdays drawings, coins, glass and antiques; Wednesdays jewelry, books and weapons; Thursdays furniture and wine; and on Friday they auction paintings. The auctions normally start at 11. The items are usually exhibited for two days before the auction.

We walk back a few steps and turn right into Bury Street, which we walk all the way to Jermyn Street.

Turnbull & Asser

71 Jermyn Street. (D3).

We have come to the main shopping street for men, Jermyn Street. On our left corner, at no. 71, there is a shirt shop for men. It sells both ready-made and specially cut shirts, which you have to wait six weeks for. The establishment is always fashionable even if it was founded in 1885. Both service and prices are in the sky.

On the right side we have Hilditch & Key, the other famous shop for men’s shirts. This one has also shirts for women.
We now work to the east along Jermyn Street and soon arrive at other interesting shops.

Floris

89 Jermyn Street. (D3).

On the right side of the street, at no. 89, an 250 years old outfit, offering perfume since 1730. Everybody can afford to buy bathing salts here in order to use the occasion to have a look around in one of the great perfumery shops of the world.

Do remember that Chanel and other Parisians are only 19th and 20th C. upstarts. This is a delightful and of course an especially fragrant shop.

Just a little farther on the same side we come to another shopping landmark.

Paxton & Whitfield

93 Jermyn Street. (D2).

The most celebrated and most enjoyable cheese house in the city, at no. 93. It has operated since the end of the 18th C. Here you can buy all the best English cheeses, both Stilton and Cheddar, in addition to 300 other types from all corners of the world.

They also sell the cheese in thin slices. If they do not have the cheese you ask for, they will deliver it before the end of the tenth day.

Now we cross the street and walk back a few steps until we arrive at Princes Arcade to the right, leading to Piccadilly. It is one of a few pedestrian shopping arcades in the metropolis. In Piccadilly we turn left and immediately we arrive at a gem of a shop.

Hatchards

187 Piccadilly. (D2).

The oldest book-shop in London, located here at no. 187 since 1767. Over 350,000 titles are on four floors. The atmosphere is enticing for bookworms with plenty of time on their hands.

We continue a few steps along Piccadilly and enter one of the major landmarks of London.

Fortnum & Mason

181 Piccadilly. (D2).

Here at no. 181 is the traditional gourmet shop in town and the Queen’s grocer at the same time. The specialty of the house is preserves and jams in jars and tins. The shop is gastronomically really not comparable to Harrods, but it is worth a visit because of the unique atmosphere accented by attendants in coat-tails.

Above the ground floor there are normal department store goods for sale.

A few steps farther along Piccadilly there is Piccadilly Arcade, a nice little pedestrian lane, leading like Princess Arcade to Jermyn Street. Then we cross Piccadilly as on the opposite side is the most famous arcade of them all.

Burlington Arcade

Burlington Arcade. (D2).

The most elegant and famous pedestrian passage in London, built 1815-1819. Many renowned, small shops are in particularly relaxed and comfortable surroundings in the arcade.

The least we can do is to walk back and forth in the passage. Arriving again at Piccadilly we walk a few steps to the right. Then we turn right into Old Bond Street.

Charbonnel et Walker

7 Old Bond Street. (D2).

The disco Embassy is on this side of the street, at no. 7. A little farther on the other side is the best known chocolate boutique in London, Carbonnel et Walker, where customers can have their initials on the sweets they buy.

Alongside the shop we see one more pedestrian passage, Royal Arcade. Almost opposite on the other side of Old Bond Street there is a famous establishment.

Truefitt & Hill

23 Old Bond Street. (D2).

The most famed barber in town, at no. 23, has the Duke of Edinburgh and the Prince of Wales among the clients, also half the House of Lords. It is also the oldest barber in London. You will have your hair nicely cut at a price which is not higher than elsewhere in the center.

Here the street changes it name to New Bond Street. On the other side we soon notice one more famous shop.

Asprey

167 Old Bond Street. (D2).

One of the better known jewelers, at no. 167, with many imposing windows facing the street. And of course this shop is a purveyor to the Royal Court.

Please note that we are only mentioning a few gems among lots of other shops of interest.

We continue north along New Bond Street and make a short detour to the left into Bruton Street.

Holland & Holland

33 Bruton Street. (D2).

At the gunsmiths at no. 33. you can, as the Duke of Edinburgh, get terribly expensive hunting guns with a waiting time of three years and a half.

We can also look to the south side of the street to observe how the old tavern Coach & Horses contrasts with the faceless modern buildings around.

Back in New Bond Street we continue to the north.

Wildenstein

New Bond Street. (D2).

The king of antique paintings dealers in the world has his world central premises on this side near the corner of Bruton Street. Here paintings change owners for enormous sums.

On the opposite side, at no. 26, there is Tessiers, one of the oldest and most revered antique jewelry shops in London.

Antiques enthusiasts should know that we are only skimming the enormous antiques scene in Mayfair.

Farther along the right side we come to a landmark.

Sotheby‘s

35 New Bond Street. (D2).

One of the two London auction houses of world fame, at no. 35. This one is the older one and probably the better known one. It is also bigger, holding about 500 auctions each year. The items are on exhibition for one week before the auction and catalogues are available one month beforehand.

Mondays are for books and glass, Tuesdays for books and porcelain, Wednesdays for paintings, Thursdays for silver and jewelry and Fridays for furniture and objects of art.

Here New Bond Street is changing from a street of classic English shops into a street of the subsidiaries of the international fashion houses of Paris and Milan. We soon cross Grosvenor Street and continue on New Bond Street to a shop on the right side.

Smythson

54 New Bond Street. (D2).

The paper shop on the right side, at no. 54, is a purveyor to the Royal Court. It specializes in innovative and outrageous letterheads and Christmas cards. You will find there some charming gifts.

Next we turn left into Brook Street to the west and immediately after that to the right into South Molton Street.

South Molton Street

South Molton Street. (D2).

A lively pedestrian street with small shops and pavement cafés.

On the right side we enter an establishment.

Molton Brown

58 South Molton Street. (D2).

The hairdresser at no. 58 is the most celebrated one in town, decorated in a turn-of-the-century style.

We walk a little farther on this side of the street.

Higgins

42 South Molton Street. (D2).

One of the best coffee shops in London, at no. 42, gleaming of copper and fragrant of beans from all corners of the world, including beans from Higgins’ private fields on the slopes of Kilimanjaro. Here around 30 types of coffee are sold in an atmosphere of bygone times. Please note the big scales.

Almost alongside there is one more gem.

Prestat

40 South Molton Street. (D2).

The best chocolate maker in the metropolis, at no. 40. The sweets are made by hand on the premises and sold fresh over the antique counter. Originally this shop was in Paris but moved here in the beginning of this century. Without doubt you can get here the best sweets in London, especially truffles and cherry brandy.

We have now reached Oxford Street.

Oxford Street

Oxford Street. (D2).

Most of the amusing shops are behind us and now the seriousness of the department stores is in front of us. Oxford Street is one of the main shopping streets in London and by far the most important street of department shops.

First we turn westward on Oxford Street on its south side until we have passed the imposing Selfridge palace on the other side. There we cross the street and enter a store on the left side of the palace.

Marks & Spencer

458 Oxford Street. (C2).

The main store of the famous chain, at no. 458, one of the best department stores in town, if you compare quality and price and want value for money. 30 thieves are said to be apprehended here per day.

We return on Oxford Street and have a look into the big palace.

Selfridges

Oxford Street. (C2).

The immense and trustworthy department store often offers better choice than the famous Harrods. As it will take a whole day to inspect the store we save it for a special trip later, given time.

While strolling east along Oxford Street we do some window-shopping. On the far corner of Oxford Circus we come to another famous department store.

Top Shop

Oxford Circus. (D2).

In the cellar of the Peter Robinson department store. It is one of the most spacious fashion floors in Europe. Many well-known fashion houses have their private stands there. This is a good place for trying on the newest fashion without paying outrageous prices.

Now we turn south along the eastern side of Regent Street and continue our window-shopping. Soon we reach one more department store.

Liberty

210 Regent Street. (D2).

A captivating department store, at no. 210, rather more expensive than most of the others. It also boasts of a beautiful half-timbered facade toward Great Marlborough Street. That part is built from the timbers of the last two timer ships of the navy in 1924.

Here you can get famous, printed cottons and Eastern rugs, fine silk and furniture. The items range from antiques to high fashion.

Behind Liberty, on the corner of Great Marlborough Street and Carnaby Street there is an interesting shop.

Galt

Great Marlborough Street. (D2).

A special shop for educational toys, many solely produced for this shop. Wood is much in evidence in the appealing toys. This is a good shopping place for parents who wish to keep standards in their gifts to the children.

We ignore Carnaby Street and its tourists as its days of fame have long since passed, blessed were they. Instead we return to Regent Street and turn south past Liberty to a large shop of interest.

Hamley’s

200 Regent Street. (D2).

One of the giants of toy shops of this world, at no. 200.

Here we cross Regent Street and go into Conduit Street and then turn left into Savile Row, the address of the best-known bespoke tailors in the British Empire.

Huntsman

11 Savile Row. (D2).

The top bespoke tailor, at no. 11, the tailor of kings and lords. Around 1800 this shop changed from a glove shop into a sportswear shop, since then evolving into a general clothes shop. But its specialty is still sportswear.

You can have whatever sewn here, both for women and men, even clothes from denim. But you have to expect a waiting of twelve weeks and to pay at least £400 for the privilege of clothes which should keep for a quarter of a century if you can take care of your lines for such a long time.

At the south end of Savile Row we turn left into Vigo Street, cross Regent Street and go directly into Brewer Street.

Slater & Cooke, Bisney & Jones

67 Brewer Street. (E2).

The butchers’ shop with the long name, at no. 67, is from 1860 and is still one of the most thrilling meat shops in town. Every type of meat is displayed at its special counter and the displays do a lot for your saliva. Therefore it is high time to use the occasion to finish our shopping spree and enter one of the many restaurants in the area.

A few shops in addition are worth a visit, but do not fit into our recently finished stroll through St James’s and the eastern part of Mayfair. One of them is Foyle.

Foyle

119-125 Charing Cross Road. (E2).

The largest bookshop in London with four million titles. It has often proved to be a safer bet than some of the specialized bookshops. It is rather disorganized though, and it is advisable to ask the way on the ground floor not to get lost on the higher storeys.

In the eastern side streets of Charing Cross Road, such as Cecil Court, are many good merchants of antique books, where you can while away the days.

We continue to seek out stores in London.

Purdey

57 South Audley Street. (C2).

The royal gunsmith, the perfect place for buying a firearm for your fox-hunting, if you have £ 30,000 available and can wait for two years. If you become bankrupt in doing so you can always sell the firearm at a profit, as there are always buyers waiting. Every gun is handmade according to the measurements of the client and only 100 are made each year.

Whittard

11 Fulham Road. (B4).

The traditional tea-shop of the metropolis, near the South Kensington station. It offers over fifty different types plus many blends and herbs. Here civilization is kept intact after the invasion of tea-bags.

King’s Road

King’s Road. (C4).

A great shopping district centers on King’s Road, from Sloane Square to the southwest, but it does not quite keep the style it had in the sixties when this was the fashion center of London.

The district moving upwards and upmarket at the moment is Covent Garden. The restoration of the market has pumped blood into shopping in the surrounding streets. That is the place where to search for interesting, new shops.

We finish by visiting a temple of shopping, the Harrods department store.

Harrods

Brompton Road. (C3).

A celebrated landmark. The reason for us liking it is not that they sell you live elephants. The choice of goods is in many cases inferior from that of Selfridges. And thrice in a row we have been reduced to go elsewhere, as a top product was not available here.

What is really ravishing here is the food department on the ground floor. It is far better than Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly and comes near to the gourmet magazines of Paris. It does not lessen the impression that the meat hall resembles a cathedral. Here you can get three different types of real caviar and fresh goose-liver to go with you champagne for breakfast.

In the neighborhood there is a good shopping district around Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, the north end of Sloane Street and Beauchamp Place, which is a charming street leading off Brompton Road.

We end by having a quick look into Beauchamp Place.

Beauchamp Place

Beauchamp Place. (C4).

A charming shopping street leading off Brompton Road.

Tower

(I2).

One of the main landmarks of the metropolis, the Tower of London, was built in 1077 and the following years by William the Conqueror, more as an admonition to the population than a defense against external threats. Its White Tower is one of the oldest substantial castles in Western Europe, a good example of the rectangular, towerlike castles of the Normans.

At that time the Romans had been away for over six centuries. London make few ripples in world history during Anglo-Saxon rule. The city first began to grow as a commercial center after the Normans had taken over. Richard the Lionhearted started to build ramparts around the White Tower late in the 12th C. At the close of the 13th C. it had acquired more or less its present look.

It was a royal residence all the way to the 17th C., an arsenal and a treasury. The royal jewels are still kept there and exhibited. The jewels and the Tower are guarded by the famed Yeoman Warders, better known as Beefeaters, in 16th C. Tudor costumes.

We enter through the Middle Tower gate, cross the moat between the inner and outer fortifications, and continue to the central grounds of the castle, dominated by the central White Tower.

White Tower

(I2).

White Tower rises from the grounds with over four meter thick walls and towers on all four corners. It is the original part of the castle, from 1077. Inside there is an interesting collection of armor and arms on the two lower floors. Above them is the Chapel of St John from 1080, still looking much the same as nine centuries ago, a perfect example of early Norman architecture.

In the grounds we see the waiting line for the crown jewels exhibition. The line moves quickly. but it is advisable to be here as soon a possible after the Tower is opened at 9:30 to evade the crowds. Among the jewels is the greatest diamond in the world, the 530 carats Star of Africa from the Cullinan stone, and the historical 109 carats Kohinoor diamond.

On our way back out of the grounds we first enter Bloody Tower.

Bloody Tower

(I2).

Tower was the prison of well known enemies of the sovereign, such as Anne Boleyn, Mary Stuart and finally Rudolf Hess during the 2nd World War.

In the Bloody Tower Richard III is said to have had the little princes put to death.

We leave by the Traitors’ Gate, through which prisoners could be brought on boats into the castle. We pass the Bell Tower from the early 13th C. and cross the moat again to exit by the Middle Tower. Out of the castle we walk down to the Thames embankment, where we have an excellent view of the castle, and also of Tower Bridge.

Tower Bridge

(I3).

This bridge is the one farthest downriver, built 1886-1894 in a Gothic imitation in Victorian style. It is a drawbridge, surprisingly quick in letting ships pass through.

From the bridge there is a splendid view over the river and the battleship Belfast, which is moored and on exhibit to the west of the bridge.

We continue along the embankment, go past the Tower hotel and arrive at St Katherine’s Dock.

St Katherine‘s Dock

(I3).

The dock was made in 1827-1828 and was then one of the main harbors of London, and the harbor closest to the City. Now a few old ships have been collected there, among them the Discovery, used by Scott on his journey to Antarctica.

A disused warehouse has been renovated and changed into the Dickens Tavern, a fine place for a pint after this sightseeing walk.

Then we take the shortest way along a walking path on the north side of the harbor up to Tower Hill underground station, where we see remains of the ancient London Wall.

London Wall

(H2).

From the pedestrian subway under the street from the station to the Tower we can see remains of the London Wall, built by Romans around the city after queen Boadicea of the Celts had destroyed London in the year 61. Then Londinium, as the Romans called it, was a young city, only about two decades of age.

The remnants of the wall can be seen elsewhere around City and are mainly from the 2nd D. Some streets in City still show in their names where there were gates in the wall: Ludgate, Newgate, Aldersgate, Moorgate, Bishopsgate and Aldgate.

The wall was not moved when the city grew. Instead it was repeatedly rebuilt in the same place during the Middle Ages. Most of the present-day City, except for the Fleet Street area, is inside the limits of the old wall.

This walk is at its end.

City

Ancient London was built in the area that now constitutes the City. It was always a commercial town. The kings moved to neighboring Westminster in the 11th C. to build their palaces there. An ensuing battle of power between City and Westminster reflected the battle of power between merchants and aristocrats.

Ever since the City has retained a special position, both in London as a community and in relation to the Crown. Its system of liveried societies of merchants and tradespeople, who elect a mayor, has survived until this day.

Now City is best known as one of the great world centers of banks and other financial institutions. It is also known for its many churches, with the immense St Paul’s as the primary example.

When we embark from the Bank underground station we are on a famous corner where seven of the main streets of City radiate in all directions. The Bank of England is on our left side.

Bank of England

Hours: Open Monday-Friday 10-17 and in summer Sunday 11-17. (H2).

The bank was founded in 1694 to raise money for military campaigns. It evolved into the central bank of England and its currency bank. The present building is from 1788. It is now a museum displaying items from the history of the bank.

The Stock Exchange can be seen behind the Bank of England. It is a modern building that houses the third biggest stock exchange in the world. A stock exchange has been here since 1773. The public gallery is not open to the public any more.

On the corner in front of Bank of England is the Royal Exchange.

Royal Exchange

(H2).

The Exchange has been in operation since 1565 as a center for commercial exchange of goods and money. The present building, from 1844, has a Greek colonnade front of classical proportions.

The name of the street between the Bank of England and Royal Exchange is Threadneedle Street reminding us of the market that was here in olden times, as other neighboring streets do: Cornhill, Poultry, Cheapside, Eastcheap and Bread Street. And these street names are almost the sole survivors from earlier times. All around we see appalling post-war bank architecture.

But wait. We can get a glimpse of bygone times if we walk about 100 meters into Cornhill and then take a dive to the right into the second or third pedestrian passage leading toward Lombard Street.

Lombard Street

(H2).

Between Cornhill and Lombard Street we find a surprising maze of alleys reminding us of earlier days. These passages also lead us to cozy places like the neighbors George & Vulture and the Jamaica Wine House who are like oases here. The former tavern boasts of six centuries of age and the latter of three of them.

If we continue along the mews and cross Gracechurch Street, we arrive at the Leadenhall market.

Leadenhall Market

(H2).

The market has been here since Roman times. It is now a retail market for meat, fish, vegetables, fruit and cheese. Its pride is the wildfowl. This is the place where to buy quail and grouse for Christmas.

From the market we return to Gracechurch Street and turn left along the street down to the Monument.

The Monument

(H2).

Built in memory of the Great Fire of 1666, when almost the whole of City burnt down. Once there was a good view from the top of the Monument, but it has largely been spoiled by the surrounding concrete towers of the post-war extremes in architectural ugliness.

We can continue to stroll around in City to inspect some of the churches built by the architect Christopher Wren in the years after the Great Fire. His fans can find 29 churches in City built by him, but we shall on our next walk make do with one.

We can also stroll west over King William Street, into Arthur Street and from there along pedestrian lanes to the Cannon Street underground station. A few steps from Arthur Street we stumble upon the wine bar Olde Wine Shades in a house from 1663, preceding the Great Fire. We end his walk there.

St Paul’s Cathedral

(G2).

Christopher Wren built the cathedral in the years after the great fire of 1666. In the same place there had earlier stood at least two churches, the first built in 604. The medieval church was probably even larger than Wren’s church, in spite of the latter being one of the very largest cathedrals in the world.

St Paul’s has a plan of an English Gothic church, a cross church with a very long chancel, but built in Renaissance style with Romanesque colonnades. Wren tended to the Baroque style and quarreled with the building committee who found that style too Catholic and forced him to develop the church in the Mannerist Renaissance style of Protestantism.

Over the crossing there soars a 30 meter wide dome, rather Gothic in form, resembling St Peter’s in Rome. In addition Wren was able to build the western towers in Gothic style.

We enter the church and walk along the nave to the crossing.

St Paul’s interior

The crossing is bright and spacious. It is carried by eight strong arches. Behind the ceiling there is a brick wall which carries the lantern on the top of the dome.

Where the nave and the southern transept meet there is a spiral staircase leading up to the famed Whispering Gallery with a good view down into the church, and to the Stone Gallery with a view over London. Those who do not feel dizzy at heights can continue upwards to the Golden Gallery at the feet of the top lantern and have a thrilling view in clear weather.

It seems a miracle that St Paul’s was spared during the air raids of the 2nd World War when the surrounding district burnt down and only the cathedral stood above the flames.

Inns of Court

The Inns of Court are the four legal associations in London, dating back to the 14th C. They built their offices around hidden gardens that still are gems in the western part of City.

We start at the Chancery Lane underground station. From High Holborn we walk through one of three gates, no. 21 or Fulwood Place or Warwick Court to enter Gray’s Inn.

Gray’s Inn

Hours: Open Monday-Friday 12-14, longer on Friday. (F1).

We are in a maze of alleys, courtyards, proportioned houses and fragrant gardens, a sublime oasis hidden from the tumult of the town. Here are the offices of the lawyers in Gray’s Court, one of the four legal associations of London.

This one was founded in the 14th C. The oldest houses are from the 17th C. and the gardens a little younger, designed by Sir Francis Bacon. They are open to the public 12-14 on weekdays and further into the afternoon on Friday.

We return to High Holborn through one of the passages. On the other side of the street, a little to the left, we see Staple Inn.

Staple Inn

(F1).

A row of houses, which are four centuries old, built 1586-1596. This front is the only example in London of how the finer streets looked like in the days of Elizabeth I. Do notice the half-timbering with beams and gables and overhanging storeys. In the middle an arcade leads to the courtyards behind.

A little more to the west High Holborn meets Chancery Lane to the south. We turn into that street and walk along the eastern facade of Lincoln’s Inn, go past its Stone Buildings Gate and arrive at the Gatehouse of Lincoln’s Inn.

Lincoln‘s Inn

Hours: Open 12-14:30. (F2).

The Gatehouse still has its original oak doors from 1518, almost half a millennium old. The brick building has square towers in the corners.

Behind it there is the Old Square with buildings from Tudor times, restored in 1609. The Old Hall is from 1490. The chapel at the north end of the square dates from 1619-1623.

The proper gardens are to the west, elegant and pleasant, surrounded by the old and traditional architecture from those times when good taste had not gone out of fashion.

From the gardens we stroll south New Square and through a gate from 1697 to Carey Street where we are behind the palace of the Royal Courts of Justice. We walk around the eastern side of the palace to arrive at its front end in Fleet Street.

Royal Courts of Justice

(F2).

An ornamental Neo-Gothic palace from Victorian times, housing the main civil courts of London, often with television crews in front. The public is admitted to all the proceedings in the courtrooms.

On the other side of Fleet Street we see a gateway. Prince Henry’s Room is alongside the gateway.

Prince Henry‘s Room

Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 11-14. (F2).

The original, half-timbered building was built in 1610, paneled with oak.

We enter the gateway to the Middle Temple.

Middle Temple

(F2).

One of the legal villages in City. The gatehouse of red brick from 1684 is by Christopher Wren. Behind it we find a new maze of passages, courtyards and squares, with less greenery than we saw in the other Inns of Court.

Of special interest is the Middle Temple Hall from 1562-1570, especially the roof beams and oak partitions. The hall is closed 12-15. The story goes that Shakespeare performed himself here in The Midsummer Night’s Dream in 1602.

To the east there is an alley to the Inner Temple, one more of the legal associations leading us to the Templar Church.

Inner Temple

(F2).

This is the village of the last of the four legal associations dominating this walk through the western part of City.

We come to the circular Temple Church.

Temple Church

Hours: Open 10-17. (F2).

The most important building in the Inner Temple. It is the Templar Church, circular like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. It was built 1160-1185 and is one of the oldest Gothic buildings in Britain.

The church was the center of a great monastery founded by the Templar Knights about 1160. That order was disbanded in the 14th C. Then the lawyers took over and have since then been in charge.

We walk Inner Temple Gateway through a half-timbered gateway from 1610 in Tudor style, restored in 1906. Here we are again in Fleet Street.

Fleet Street

(F2).

It is at the western end of City, the great street of journalism in the earlier decades of the century, but now most of the media have moved elsewhere. Just by Middle Temple Gateway there is Temple Bar, which the Queen is not allowed to pass into City without a special permission from the Lord Mayor of London, who is elected by the livery companies or trade guilds.

If we walk Fleet Street to the east, past Inner Temple Gateway, we soon reach el Vino wine bar. From the north side of the street numerous alleys lead north, among other places to Dr. Johnson’s House from about 1700. On the same side of Fleet Street is Cheshire Cheese, an old pub from 1667.

From here the newspaper and news agencies buildings dominate the street all they way east to Ludgate Circle where we see St Paul’s cathedral towering on the hill beyond. Under the rails at Ludgate Circus is the wine bar Mother Bunch’s If we walk west along New Bridge Street to the Blackfriars station, the Black Friar pub is opposite the station.

This walk is at its end.

Covent Garden

(E2).

London has as other cities and towns and villages of the world got a city center life, its human centerpoint for locals and visitors. A decade ago the famous fruit and vegetable market was moved out of Covent Garden and a human desert was left behind. But now the market and its surroundings have been given a new lease of life with systematic civic action.

It is now pulsating in pavement cafés and pubs. The market building itself is from 1832 and the iron and glass roofs are younger. Now it houses cafés, pubs, wine bars, small shops, fashion boutiques and outdoor markets. The balcony of the Punch & Judy pub is an optimal observing point for the happenings in the square below.

Inside the market there is the outdoor Cafe Delicatessen and at the other end the good wine bar Crusting Pipe. All these places are suitable for resting your feet between visits to the shops in the market and in the neighborhood. Covent Garden has refuted the fallacy of London being such a rainy place to make sidewalk cafés impossible. Restoration has succeeded above all dreams.

We start by going to the square between the Covent Market buildings and the church of St Paul’s.

The Piazza

(E2).

Usually there are happenings here at lunch time when the human flow is at its heaviest. There are also happenings at other times, but lunch is the best time. We observe at one single lunch time a man with a marionette doll, a rock band and a contortion artist.

The optimal observing point is the balcony of the Punch & Judy bar as from there you can see over the heads of the crowd.

The streets leading west from the piazza, King Street and Henrietta Street are interesting restaurant streets, full of life. Even more agreeable is the pedestrian New Row, a continuation of King Street.

We observe the church in front of us.

St Paul’s in Covent Garden

(E2).

The 350 years old church was designed by the famous Palladian architect Inigo Jones. It is the most beautiful and the first Neoclassic district church in London. Now it is the funeral church of the theater set.

We walk past the Covent Garden market buildings and the short and pedestrian Russell Street to Bow Street, where we turn left, go past the Floral Hall of glass to the Royal Opera building.

Royal Opera

(E2).

The present building has a portico and pediment facing Bow Street, but the opera itself has been here since 1728, starting with The Beggar’s Opera. It houses both the Royal Opera and the Royal Ballet. It is one of the most important opera houses of the world and has been a magnet for other theaters in the same district.

We continue on Bow Street, turn left into Long Acre and right into the pedestrian Neal Street.

Neal Street

(E2).

19th C. warehouses have been converted into boutiques, galleries and restaurants, many of them specializing in health. The best known part of the street is north of Shorts Gardens. On our left there is Neal’s Yard with the Wholefood Warehouse, overflowing with health foods.

We walk Shorts Gardens to the southwest and turn left into Monmouth Street which soon changes into St Martin’s Lane.

St Martin’s Lane

(E2).

The area around St Martin’s Lane has many theaters and restaurants. One of the streets leading off it, to the right, is Garrick Street, with the literary Garrick Club, and right off Garrick Street, we have Rose Street with the oldest pub in London, Lamb and Flag, from 1623.

Further down St Martin’s Lane there is a boutique and restaurant street leading to the left, New Row.

Arriving on St Martin’s Lane to Trafalgar Square, we come to St Martin-in-the-Fields on our left.

St Martin-in-the-Fields

(E2).

This beautiful and Neo-Classic church was built in 1722-1726, resembling a Roman temple with the addition of a tower and a spire. This design has been very influential in America, where it lay the groundwork of the Colonial style.

Inside the church is unusually wide and bright. It has for decades been and still is a social center and a shelter for drug addicts and vagrants, providing free soups.

On the other side of the street the National Gallery overlooks Trafalgar Square.

National Gallery

2 St Martin’s Place, Trafalgar Square. Hours: Open 10-18, Sunday 14-18. (E2).

One of the greatest art galleries in the world, well organized, well labeled and well lit. The paintings are over 2000 and cover the whole history of art except for modern art and British art which are in Tate Gallery. This one is in the forefront in the world in scientific restoration of paintings. It is also famous for changing exhibitions around themes in the history of art.

To the left Italian paintings are in more than twenty rooms, covering the whole way back to the Renaissance. There you can see works by Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Mantegna, Michelangelo, Rafaelo, Titian and Tintoretto. To the north in the same wing are the Dutch and Flanders paintings, including Rembrandt, Vermeer, van Dyck, Rubens, van Eyck, Hieronimus Bosch and Brüghel.

The French are in the Eastern wing, among them Delacroix and the impressionists Manet, Monet, Renois and Pisarro, and the younger Degas, Cézanne and van Gogh. There also the Spanish Velasques, El Greco and Goya, and the English Hogarth, Gainsborough, Constable and Turner.

In the same block to the back the National Portrait Gallery has over 5000 paintings of famous people from the history of Britain, with recent additions of photos and cartoons.

Trafalgar Square

(E2).

The geographical center of London. Roughly speaking it has Covent Garden to the east, Soho to the north, St James’s to the west and Westminster to the south. On the southern corner of the square there is an equestrian statue of Charles I, from where all distances and roads are measured in Britain.

We go to the middle of the square.

Nelson Monument

(E2).

On the middle of the square a statue of admiral Nelson towers on a granite column of 52 meters, surrounded by four bronze lions and thousands of living doves which a favorite with children. Above the square is the long and low facade of the National Gallery.

From the column we turn northeast into The Strand.

Strand

One of the major theater streets in London, connecting Trafalgar Square with Fleet Street.

We can continue on Strand or turn back to Trafalgar Square where there is a short walk north to the start of the next walk, at Leicester Square.

Soho

(E2).

Soho is a district of many faces, a district of cinemas and sex chops, of bookshops and Chinatown. It has the quiet Leicester Square with its greenery and the noisy Piccadilly Circus with its neon signs.

In olden times Soho was a sleazy district full of danger. Now it is relatively safe, but still somewhat vulgar.

We start our walk at Leicester Square.

Leicester Square

(E2).

A quiet garden with hospitable benches for resting tired bones. It has a statue of Charlie Chaplin in the center, probably to remind us of the many cinemas around. A very popular kiosk is selling theater tickets at reduced rates on the day of the performance.

From the northwest corner of the square we take Coventry Street to Piccadilly Square.

Piccadilly Circus

(E2).

A noisy traffic knot surrounded by noisy neon signs and shopping malls. In the middle there is a statue of Eros, one of the main landmarks of London. Visiting young people traditionally gather at the statue, some of them stoned.

Halfway on the way back Coventry Street crosses Wardour Street which leads us north into Chinatown.

Chinatown

(E2).

The area around Wardour Street has lots of good Chinese restaurants, especially in pedestrian Gerrard Street with Chinese street-lamps, leading off to the right.

We are still on Wardour Street, cross Shaftesbury Avenue and continue on Wardour Street, turn left a few steps and then to the right into Rupert Street with its continuation in Berwick Street.

Berwick Street

(E2).

These two streets are the venue of a colorful market of vegetables, fruits and flowers which has been here since 1778.

From the north end of Berwick Street we thread through side streets and peaceful Soho Square to Charing Cross Road where there is Foyle and other bookshops. The nicest street of antique bookshops is Cecil Court, leading east off Charing Cross Road, full of treasures for book lovers.

St James’s

The classy, British and quiet district of central London, reaching from The Mall to Piccadilly, from Trafalgar Square to Green Park, centered on St James’s Palace. This is the district of the most venerable shops from bygone centuries and most of the best known gentlemen’s clubs in Britain.

We start at the Trafalgar Square end of the street and work our way westward.

Pall Mall

The main street of the classy St James’s district. When we have crossed Haymarket we see the first St James’s club on the opposite side of the street. This is the Institute of Directors.

Then we pass Travelers Club at no. 106 and Reform at no. 104, from where Phileas Fogg was supposed to have started his journey around the world in 80 days. The big palace is the Royal Automobile Club and then comes Oxford & Cambridge Club at no. 71. Opposite it on the north side of the street there is the Army & Navy club.

The British venerable tradition of gentlemen’s clubs has been in decline for several years, forcing clubs to combine or to fold. A tradition of activity has replaced a tradition of inactivity. Nowadays rich people don’t have time to hang out in clubs for hours on end.

At the end of the street we come to St James’s Palace on the left side of the street.

St James‘s Palace

(D3).

The real royal palace of the British Empire, where the Queen receives foreign ambassadors. From that tradition comes the wording “to be accredited to the court of St James’s”. Buckingham Palace is only a royal residence, not the royal palace.

In this low and strange-looking pile of a palace from Tudor times, built in 1532, the kings of England lived from 1698 when Whitehall Palace burned down, to 1837, when Buckingham Palace was preferred. From the balcony of the gatehouse of red brick with octagonal towers new monarchs are proclaimed.

A part of the royal court lives at St James’s Palace. Connected with the palace on the west side is Clarence House, residence of the Queen Mother. On both sides to the back there are mansions, Marlborough House to the east and Lancaster House to the west, now a conference center.

In front of St James’s Palace we turn right from Pall Mall into St James’s Street.

St James’s Street

(D3).

This is concentrated clubland. On the left side there is Carlton, the best known conservative club. A few steps later we find a narrow street leading to the hotels Dukes and Stafford. Still farther up, on opposite sides of the street there are the clubs Brook’s at no. 61 and Boodle at no. 28. Finally near the Piccadilly crossing we have the White’s club.

We turn left into Piccadilly.

Piccadilly

(D3).

The address of quality shops dealing in luxury items.

The best known landmark in Piccadilly is the Ritz hotel on this side of the street. A little further on, Piccadilly marks the northern boundary of Green Park and reaches its end at the Hyde Park Corner.

We can walk back on the northern side of Piccadilly until we come to the next alley on the west side of Half Moon Street, leading off to the north, a short distance to Shepherd Market, marking the beginning of our next walk.

Mayfair

A district of money and elegance, built up in Georgian style, giving a unified look to much of the area. It is a district of city mansions circling around small parks, and of many of the most famous shops in London. Its best known squares are Grosvenor, Berkeley and Hanover.

The southwestern part of the district was the venue of an annual cattle fair which was closed down in 1706 and has given its name to the district.

We visited some of the shops in the eastern part of the district on our 1st walk in London. This time we shall concentrate on the western border, where the district meets the spacious Hyde Park. We start at Shepherd Market.

Shepherd Market

(D3).

Founded in 1735 to replace the former Mayfair market which had been closed down some years before. It was a food market for fish, fowl, fruit and vegetables.

Now there is a 19th C. village of passages with white, little houses, old shops, restaurants and outdoor cafés, one of the many oases of the modern city.

From the market area we walk west along Curzon Street to Park Lane where we turn right.

Park Lane

The avenue of grand hotels like Dorchester and Grosvenor House, facing the immense Hyde Park.

We walk north past the hotels all the way to Marble Arch.

Marble Arch

(C2).

Originally the entrance to Buckingham Palace but moved here due to lack of space. Here the public of London came in olden times to amuse themselves by witnessing hangings and quarterings.

From Marble Arch we go through a pedestrian subway to nearby Speakers’ Corner.

Speakers’ Corner

(C2).

In 1872 it was decided to have here freedom of speech for anybody to talk about any subject without being arrested. For a long time this was mainly a place for religious fanatics and other eccentrics, but lately there has been again an influx of serious speakers, mainly emigrants from states which do not practice free speech. Speakers’ Corner is liveliest on Sundays.

We now walk into Hyde Park.

Hyde Park

(C3).

The biggest open space in London, if its western end, Kensington Gardens, are included. This is a terrain of 158 hectares of grassland, majestic trees, sublime flower beds and the lake of Serpentine. This is where to relax in bucolic charm, idling in an outdoor café.

Contrary to French and Italian gardens which are strictly designed, Hyde Park is an English Garden, an informal and loosely laid out garden with freer flora.

Originally Henry VIII had the garden hedged in and made it his hunting ground. But for three centuries and a half it has been open to the public.

We arrive at the Serpentine.

Serpentine

(B3).

Created in 1730 and popular for renting rowing boats to idle on it.

We continue to the southeastern corner of the park and arrive there at Aspey House.

Aspey House

(C3).

The house between the traffic lanes is reached through pedestrian subways. Built in 1778 it later became the home of general Wellington who was victorious over Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815. It has the honor of the simple address: 1 London.

It is now a museum for Wellington.

From the house we can see the Wellington Arch.

Wellington Arch

(C3).

Erected in 1828 in honor of general Wellington’s victory over Napoleon at Waterloo in 1815.

This is the end of the walk. We are near Hyde Park Corner underground station.

Buckingham Palace

(D3).

An imitation from the 19th and 20th C. of styles from bygone ages. It has been the royal residence since Queen Victoria moved there in 1837. The palace is coated in Portland stone and matches the Victoria monument in front of it and The Mall.

The palace is now open to the public. It has some curiosity value but visits to other historical buildings in London are more interesting.

We turn our attention to the monument in front of the palace.

Queen Victoria Memorial

(D3).

A white marble statue from 1910 with a bronze statue of Queen Victoria. It dominates The Mall and the Buckingham Palace.

This is a very good viewpoint. Looking around we see Green Park to the northwest, The Mall leading northeast, St James’s Park to the east and Buckingham Palace to the southwest.

We await the Changing of the Guards.

Changing of the Guards

The colorful ceremony occurs at 11:30 all days in summer and every other day in winter. A little before that the guards march from Wellington Barracks at Birdcage Walk to the left of the palace. We move a little along the pavement to see better. They march in step in tune with the military music.

First there is a prologue. Just before 11 we see the Horse Guards arrive at the square. They come from Knightsbridge and cross the northern part of the plaza into The Mall. This is the royal regiment in dazzling finery. It passes on its way to Horse Guards Parade at the other end of the park. This happens every weekday in summer, weekdays with even month numbers in winter.

We go directly into St James’s Park.

St James’ Park

(E3).

Henry VIII had the park laid out in 1536. In the east end of the lake in the garden there is Duck Island where pelicans, swans, ducks and other birds have their nests. From the bridge over the lake there is a good view, both west to Buckingham Palace and east to the Whitehall government district.

We leave the park on the north side and enter The Mall.

The Mall

The street of pomp and pageantry in London. it leads from Trafalgar Square to the Queen Victoria Memorial in front of the Buckingham Palace. It is the traditional avenue of parades and triumph processions, lined with trees and gardens son both sides.

We end this walk by passing through Admiralty Arch and entering the Trafalgar Square. We can take a sharp turn into the Whitehall to start our next walk in London.

Westminster

Westminster is the old royal center of London, as opposite to the City center of commerce and trade. The kings moved here from Tower in the 11th C. to build their palaces there. An ensuing battle of power between City and Westminster reflected the battle of power between merchants and aristocrats.

The division continued after London had engulfed both City and Westminster. The latter is the home of government and parliament, the center of political power in the United Kingdom. The former is the home of banking and finance, the center of financial power in the United Kingdom.

We start in the southern end of Trafalgar Square and walk into Whitehall street.

Whitehall

(E3).

The name has become synonymous with the business of government carried on in the buildings around the street. In public usage the word Whitehall means the Permanent Secretaries of government and their retinue, as the word Westminster denotes the Members of Parliament and their retinue.

The street was named after an old royal palace, Whitehall. It was first owned by the archbishop of York, but Henry VIII took it from cardinal Wolsey in 1530 and made it his own royal palace. It remained so until 1698 when it burned down and St James’s took its place.

We pass The Admiralty buildings on our right side. When we have crossed the Horseguards Avenue on our left side we arrive at Banqueting House on our left side.

Banqueting House

(E3).

The most graceful house in Whitehall, the sole survivor of Whitehall Palace, built 1619-1622 by Inigo Jones, one of the most elegant houses in London, in Palladian Renaissance style, strictly mathematically proportioned, the depth of the house half of its length. The facade is classical, conveying the image of two storeys, with Ionic pilasters downstairs and Roman ones upstairs.

But inside the house only one single room with giant baroque paintings by Rubens. It was the reception hall of the former palace and its center. Now the house is rather lonely in the crowd of bigger, younger and uglier government buildings.

Opposite Banqueting House we see the Horse Guards building.

Horse Guards

(E3).

The low building from the 18th C. is guarded by the royal cavalry in red and white. Behind the building are the parade grounds of the Horse Guards. The daily ceremonies on the parade ground commence at 11:00 weekdays and 10:00 on Sunday in summer.

We continue on Whitehall until we come to Downing Street on our right.

Downing Street

(E3).

A closed street with the residences of the Prime Minister, at no. 10, and the Minister of the Exchequer. No. 10 Downing Street has been the official residence of the Prime Minister since 1731. The government cabinet meets there in the Cabinet Room.
We continue on Whitehall to the Cenotaph monument in the middle of the street.

Cenotaph

(E3).

A slim and white memorial to British soldiers who died in the 1st World War.

We continue on Whitehall to Parliament Square.

Parliament Square

(E3).

An imposing statue of Churchill by Ivor Roberts Jones dominates the square. Other statues in the square are of Palmerston, Disraeli, Peel, Lincoln and Queen Boadicea among other dignitaries.

This is the heart of Westminster, where the kings wanted to stay at a safe distance from the unruly mobs of City.

We turn our attention to Westminster Hall.

Westminster Hall

(E3).

This is the site of the first royal palace in London, built about 1000. In front, alongside Parliament Square, are the remnants of this old palace, Westminster Hall, built by William Rufus, son of William the Conqueror, in 1097-1099.

Westminster Hall is the most important secular building from Gothic times in England. At that time it was the biggest hall in Europe. In 1397-1399 it got its present look. Royal banquets were held there in the Middle Ages. Later it housed the royal court with many famous trials and the death sentence of Charles I.

Most famous is the wide hammerbeam roof made of oak. Hammerbeam roofs were an English invention making it possible to cover wider spaces with wooden roofs than had been possible before that.

Westminster Hall is a part of the more recent Westminster Palace.

Westminster Palace

(E3).

Usually called Houses of Parliament, the palace is custom built for the parliament of the United Kingdom. It covers an enormous site, built 1840-1865 in mock Gothic style. From Parliament Square we mainly see at the northern end the slender Clock Tower with the Big Ben and at the southern end the broader and bigger Victoria Tower.

The palace has been cleaned and shows well the mild and light colors of the golden and light-brown limestone. The best view is from the Thames bridges on the other side of the palace, Westminster and Lambeth bridges, and from the opposite embankment. Seen from there the palace forms a whole, with the formal riverside facade the dominant one.

Westminster Palace houses both chambers of the parliament, the House of Commons and the House of Lords, both offices and meeting halls.

We retrace our steps to Parliament Square and have a better look at Big Ben.

Big Ben

(E3).

This is the name of the bell itself, not the tower, which is called Clock Tower. The tower and the bell are from 1858-1859. The bell weights over 13 tons and the clock mechanism weights 5 tons. The tower is one of the main landmarks of London.

The sounds from Big Ben were first broadcast on radio in 1923.

We again walk south Parliament Square and continue on Margaret Street and Old Palace Yard between the Westminster Palace and Westminster Abbey and come to the Jewel Tower on the right side of the street.

Jewel Tower

Hours: Open daily 10-18 in summer, Tuesday-Sunday 10-16 in winter. (E3).

Formerly the royal treasury. The tower was built in 1366 for that purpose. It is now a museum of palace relicts. For a while the tower was also used as the weights and measures office and a part of the exhibit is devoted to that purpose.

We go back to Parliament Square and turn left between Westminster Abbey and St Margaret’s Church.

St Margaret’s

Parliament Square, SW1. (E3).

An early 15th C. Tudor church, used for society weddings.

We turn our attention to Westminster Abbey.

Westminster Abbey

(E3).

Turning its back with the Henry VII chapel to Westminster Palace, the church is the crowning, marrying and funeral church of British sovereigns and a memorial for national heroes. As St Paul’s is the cathedral of the city, Westminster Abbey is the cathedral of the state.

First the church was a part of a Benedictine monastery. Building started in 960 and its pace was quickened after 1055, initially in Norman style but after 1220 more in Gothic style. It is a French church, higher and narrower than English churches. The nave is 31 meters, the highest in England. The western towers are the youngest part, in mock Gothic from the early 18th C.

The cathedral shows well the mild colors of the stone. At the back we can see the arches and buttresses from the time of Henry VII. The north side is even more beautiful, with an immense rose window surrounded by stylish buttresses. Before we enter the church we drop into the quiet Dean’s yard to have a view to it from the south side.

We enter the church from the west front.

Westminster Abbey interior

(E3).

We have a stunning view along the nave. In front is the memorial of Winston Churchill and behind it the grave of the unknown soldier. Both aisles are loaded with memorials. We can enter the inner part of the church through a gate in the northern aisle.

After having inspected the northern transept we pass through the ambulatory into the chapel of Henry VII which is elaborately decorated in Gothic style, with over 100 statues.

From that chapel we walk over a bridge back to Edward the Confessor’s shrine and chapel behind the altar.

St Edward’s Chapel

(E3).

The shrine contains the English coronation throne from 1300, where all English kings from William the Conqueror have been crowned. Under the throne is the Stone of Scone, the Scottish coronation stone from the 9th C, used at coronations of all Scottish kings, including Macbeth.

From here we go to the southern transept with memorials of many of the best known writers in the English language, the so-called Poets’ corner.

The southern transept has a door to the monastery which we enter to get into Chapter House.

Chapter House

Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 9:30-18:30. (E3).

A symmetrical octagonal from 1250, used in medieval times as an occasional meeting place of the parliament. The beautiful floor tiles are the original ones. The walls are decorated with medieval paintings.

And that is the end of this walk.

Museums

London is an international museum city. A few other world cities have single museums in the same class as the best London museums, but the variety of museums in London is unusually great. Some London museums are quite extensive, such as Victoria & Albert Museum with its 11 kilometers of walking.

Knightsbridge and Brompton Road are continued in Cromwell Gardens, where we start this walk in front of Victoria & Albert Museum.

Victoria & Albert Museum

Cromwell Road. Hours: Open Monday-Thursday & Saturday 10-18, Sunday 14:30-18, closed Friday. (B4).

This enormous hodge-podge is probably the biggest museum in the world. The walking distance through it measures over 11 kilometers. The exhibition rooms are 155 in number. The museum is lively and informal and concentrates mainly on applied art from all epochs and all cultures.

There is no way to explain a tour through the museum, but good maps are available at the main entrance. In half of the museum the items are categorized according to subjects, such as pottery, glass, iron and textiles. In the other half the items are exhibited according to epochs in the history of civilization.

The museum has always in store some surprises for you, even if you are a regular visitor. It is really at least a month’s work for enthusiasts of applied art.

From the museum we turn right into Cromwell Gardens, cross Exhibition Road and enter the Natural History Museum on the other side of the street.

Natural History Museum

Cromwell Road. Hours: Open 10-18. (B4).

A part of a great complex of great museums in South Kensington. The palace of this museum is now glittering in original colors since it has been cleaned. The delicate light brown and blue colors of the stone can be seen. It is Neo-Romanesque and looks almost like a Medieval cathedral.

The big foyer is dominated by a skeleton of a dinosaur. In the galleries to both sides there are a few millions of exhibited items out of a total collection of about 40 million items. Every year about 350,000 thousand items are added. Most popular is a modern exhibition about the body of man and the whale gallery with giant skeletons.

We go out, turn left into Cromwell Gardens and then again left into Exhibition Road. We have the Geological Museum on the left side.

Geological Museum

Exhibition Road. Hours: Open 10-18. (B4).

Behind the Natural History Museum, a fascinating collection of crystals, gemstones and ordinary stones. Most enjoyable is the ground floor with uncut and cut gemstones, such as diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds.

We go out, turn left on Exhibition Road and enter the Science Museum on the left side of the street.

Science Museum

Exhibition Road. Hours: Open 10-18, Sunday 14:30-18. (B4).

A giant museum about science and inventions. Children have fun in the electronic department, having a lot of gadgets, and in the children’s department, which also has a lot of levers and push-buttons. The most famous item is the pendulum in the lobby. By deviating from the vertical it shows how the earth rotates.

We leave the museum, turn left on Exhibition Road and walk all the way to Kensington Road which runs alongside the southern rim of Hyde Park. On the corner we turn left wand walk to Royal Albert Hall.

Royal Albert Hall

(B3).

An enormous round hall of red brick for giant assemblies, conferences, pop sessions and concerts for up to 7000 spectators.

Next on our museum itinerary is Tate Gallery on Millbank at the Thames riverside. A taxi would be convenient.

Tate Gallery

Millbank. Hours: Open 10-18. (E4).

Since it was expanded some years ago it can put on exhibit about one third of its 10,000 paintings at the same time. And there are still plans to add buildings. This is the gallery for British painting and international modern painting. It is famous for its purchasing policy, as sometimes it buys paintings before the colors have dried on the canvas.

In three big galleries in the middle there are usually changing exhibitions around certain themes such as the evolution of styles of painting. To the left the British painters are, including Hogart, Gainsborough and Turner.

To the right the modernists are, among them Monet, Pisarro, van Gogh, Gauguin, Cézanne, Degas, Picasso, Braque and Rouault; then Mondrian, Kandinski, Munch, Moore, Arp; then Chagall, Klee, Dali, Miro and Pollock; and finally at the back the youngest paintings from 1960 to the present day.

We do not forget the excellent lunch restaurant with a unique wine list in the cellar. Next we take some transport north through the West End of London into the Marylebone district where we arrive at the Wallace Collection.

Wallace Collection

Manchester Square. Hours: Open 10-17, Sunday 14-17. (C1).

One of the best

Paris amusements

Ferðir

Bains

7 Rue du Bourg-l’Abbé, 75003. Phone: 887 3440. Hours: Closed Monday. (F4).

A former bathhouse near Beaubourg has been converted into a punk center called Bains-Douches, which was on top when we were in Paris last time. Each night has its theme. The place also has a swimming pool and a cinema. Beware though that fortunes of this and the disco types tend to rise and fall in no time at all. The famous ones today can be forgotten tomorrow.

Castel

14 Rue Princesse, 75006. Phone: 326 9022. (D5).

The sole top nightclub on the Left bank, quite near the Saint-Germain church. The customers are the best dancers and the most diligent ones in Paris. Castel has the additional bonus that it is possible to make conversation and hear your own words. Also the decorations are the most tasteful of such disco nightclubs, a little overwhelming in the cellar.

Restaurant Princesse with its mirrors on the first floor is surprisingly good. A trick to get inside is to try to book a dinner table at Princesse. But then you should not sound like a tourist on the phone as this is the most heavily closed of all closed nightclubs in Paris. It is a haunt of actors, journalists and page-one girls, all very well dressed.

Crazy Horse

12 Avenue George V, 75008. Phone: 723 3232. (B3).

The best strip-tease in Paris, just near the Plaza-Athénée on the Right bank. Nowhere else is the show better organized into the minutest details. Alain Bernardin is responsible. All technical and optical tricks are used to lift the show far above most others in this genre.

Keur Samba

79 Rue la Boétie, 75008. Phone: 359 0310. (C3).

The center of insomniacs and of noise levels around 140 decibels in Paris, in the the middle of the fashion and nightclub district on the Right bank. It hails from Senegal, and Africans are conspicuous among the customers, for example East-African mannequins and under employed UNESCO diplomats and officials who arrive when other places close down for the morning.

Lido

116 Champs-Élysées, 75008. Phone: 563 1161. (B3).

By far the best place for all-round entertainment in classic Paris style, in the same district as most of the best nightclubs and discos. It is far better than Moulin Rouge at Pigalle which receives busloads of tourists. The spectacles of Lido are performed by elephants, waterfalls, magicians, acrobats etc.

Petit Journal

71 Boulevard Saint-Michel, 75005. Phone: 326 2859. Hours: Closed Sunday. (E6).

The best known of many jazz cellars, a small place beneath a tavern offering relatively inexpensive midnight suppers. The owner, André Damon, has both famous and unknown jazzists performing. Some come from the States, but all of them play classic jazz. The atmosphere is almost homey.

Régine’s

48 Rue de Ponthieu, 75008. Phone: 359 2113. (B3).

This one has been copied in New York and other cities. Also here it is difficult to get inside, but possible even without a membership card. In any case ties can be rented, if the doorman consents to allow you inside. Bobby Barrier directs and Régine sings. This the main club of the top fashion people. Here dances are introduced before they go out to conquer the world.

Theatre National de Chaillot

Place du Trocadéro, 75016. Phone: 727 8115. (A4).

One of the two main national theaters. Due to language difficulties it is not easy for others than French-speaking people or theater people to enjoy theater in Paris in full. As You Like It by Shakespeare was on the last time we visited the city.

Bar du Caveau

17 Place Dauphine, 75001. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. (E4).

Lawyers and politicians hang out at this wine bar in peaceful Place Dauphine on Ile de la Cité. This square is an oasis smack in the city center.

Écluse

Place de la Madeleine, 75008. Hours: Closed Sunday. (D3).

This is a chain of wine bars. They are green on the outside and brown on the inside, decorated with wide mirrors and having an ancient atmosphere, zestful and cozy at the same time. They specialize in Bordeaux wines, some of them sold by the glass, at reasonable prices.

Some other addresses of bars in this chain are: 64 Rue Francois I, 75008; 15 Quai des Grands Augustins, 75006

Harry‘s Bar

5 Rue Daunou, 75002. Hours: Open to 4 A.M. (D3).

The most important Paris bar in the American style, near the opera square, not relative of the original namesake in Venice. This one offers over 150 different whiskies and an unlimited number of cocktails. The atmosphere is both lively and civilized. This is the haunt of American intellectuals and correspondents.

Henri IV

13 Place du Pont-Neuf, 75001. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. (E4).

On the Ile de la Cité, just by Pont Neuf, those barrister and judges who are not at Bar du Caveau at the moment, are here having a glass of red wine. The specialty is Burgundy.

Pub Saint-Germain

17 Rue de l’ancienne Comédie, 75006. Hours: Open all day, all days. (E5).

The major beer pub of Paris, a few steps from the boulevard of the same name. Available are 300 different types of bottled beer and 20 of watted beer. It is open 24 hours a day.

Willi‘s

13 Rue des Petits-Champs, 75001. Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. (E3).

One of the best wine bars in Paris, near the garden of Palais Royal. A British host serves at least 250 different wines, some of them by the glass. Many of his customers are bankers and journalists.

Angélina

v
226 Rue de Rivoli, 75001. (D3).

The best chocolate in Paris is here, in a big, traditional café in the arcades of Rue de Rivoli, opposite the Tuileries. The chocolate comes in several versions. The same goes for the coffee and tea. The café is often crowded.

Café de la Paix

12 Boulevard des Capucines, 75009. Phone: 260 3350. (D3).

It goes that every American in Paris passes at least once each day in front of this peculiar café at the side of the Opéra. And it offers a good view to the square and boulevards around. It has been renovated in the original style of this typical tourist café.

Christian Constant

20 Rue du Bac, 75007. (D4).

The best baker and confectioner, in the antiques quarter of the Left bank. Adjoining the shop is a small tea room, where polished Parisian ladies meet in the afternoon to sip one of the 40 different teas with honey or with one of the five varieties of sugar. And of course something sweet to nibble at.

Cour de Rohan

59-61 Rue Saint-André-des-Arts, 75006. (E5).

In a pedestrian street behind Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, in the atmosphere of the 18th Century. It is an unusually elegant café on two floors. It is furnished with antiques, but most of the guests are of the younger generations. For sale are many varieties of tea, juice, table wine, coffee and chocolate.

Deux Magots

170 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006. Phone: 4548 5525. (D5).

The most famous sidewalk café in Paris, opposite Saint-Germain-des-Prés. We can choose between observing the church tower stones of seven centuries, the performances of actors and artists on the square, or simply the classic Parisian subject, people passing by. You can spend the whole day here as the happenings are non-stop.

Now this has become a tourist place. Formerly it was a haunt of French authors and intellectuals. all the way back to the 18th Century when they were frequented by Voltaire and Rousseau, in the 19th by Victor Hugo and Balzac, Baudelaire and Zola, and in the 20th by Sartre, de Beauvoir and Camus. The last three sat in the cafés here around the church.

Ébouillante

6 Rue des Barres, 75004. (F5).

At a footpath behind the Saint-Gervais church, leading from the river bank Quai de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, a tiny and an amusing café in the style of a fishing village tavern in Normandy. It is crowded with artists and youths from the youth hostels in the neighborhood. The atmosphere is relaxed and rural. The walls are decorated with sundry objects.

Lipp

151 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006. Phone: 4548 5391. Hours: Closed Monday. (D5).

Opposite Saint-Germain-des-Prés on the other side of the Boulevard, the haunt of famous Parisians, including politicians. The owner, Roger Cazes, takes great care that all well known Frenchmen get a good table on the crowded ground floor and that all tourists are sent upstairs to Siberia.

The food is nothing to write home about, in an ancient sauerkraut-style. But in the afternoon places are obtainable for coffee on the ground floor. That part of the restaurant is beautifully decorated with tiles and wood, big mirrors and exquisite chandeliers. The interior is from 1914. Remember that the specialty is beer rather than coffee.

Battendier

8 Rue Coquillère. (E4).

One of the oldest sausages and tripe shops of the city and probably the most fascinating. It has for more than one and a half century been here, opposite the demolished Halles. The best known products are tripe sausages, blood sausages, the many patés and Parma ham. Fresh goose liver is sold around the year. Wine and patisserie is also available.

Bell Viandier

25 Rue du Vieux-Colombier. (D5).

Near Saint-Sulpice on the Left bank is an old-fashioned hole-in-the-wall for beef, amusingly furnished. Beef is available from several breeds, local and imported, cut in correct sections according to French tradition or done into ready-made dishes. Also on sale is lamb, including a special Ester lamb. And famous blood sausages. This is the best beef shop in the city center.

Berthillon

31 Rue de Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75001. (F5).

The best ice cream shop of Paris is in this shopping alley on Ile de Saint-Louis. Often a waiting line stretches into the street. The specialties of the house are more than 30 in number, excluding sorbets such as a champagne sorbet. This is the mother shop, but Berthillon ices can also be bought in many other places. The fame has not put up the prices.

Caves Miard

9 Rue des Quatre-Vents. (E5).

The most engaging wine shop is near the Saint-Germain church. The furnishings are from 1850. The shops does not specialize in regions and has an all-round choice. In between there are bottles of grand wines such as Château Cheval Blanc and Château Yquem.

Civette

157 Rue Saint-Honoré. (E4).

The major tobacco shop, aged two centuries, is between Palais Royal and the Louvre. In stock are all brands of tobacco available in France. The havanas are kept in humid rooms. There are also endless rows of pipes and all kinds of articles for smokers.

Coesnon

30 Rue Dauphine. (E5).

On the Left bank, near Pont Neuf, the best sausage maker in Paris sells the greatest number of different sausages and patés. This is also the main choucroute shop in town.

Constant

26 Rue du Bac. (D4).

The specialty of Christian Constant in the antiques quarter of the Left bank is confectionery and chocolates. The latter are made of chocolate and crème fraiche without any preservatives. And this is not only the best confectioner in Paris but also one of the best patisserie makers.

In addition he makes a lot of ice creams and sorbets and does not either use preservatives or colorings in them. He also sells 40 different teas. And finally he is a caterer.

Corcellet

46 Rue des Petits-Champs. (E3).

A pleasant shop near the Biblioteque Nationale. Paul Corcellet mainly sells preserves and jams in glass jars and rare alcohols from far-away places, also coffee and tea.

Debauve et Gallais

30 Rue des Saints-Péres. (D5).

The most elated chocolate maker has been at this place in the Saint-Germain area since 1818. The furnishings are almost unchanged since then. They are unusually charming are now protected by the authorities. It is difficult to choose between gazing at the decorations and the gooey chocolates.

Fauchon

24 Place Madeleine. (D3).

The most famous general gourmet shop in the world is beside the Madeleine. Nothing is lacking that could tempt the gourmets who come here for sightseeing as others go into the cathedrals of Paris. Also sold are take-away dishes.
We can buy date-stamped coffee from the four corners of the world; all important varieties of caviar, including white; home made confectionery and chocolates; the finest goose liver in town; perfect patisserie; 42 sorts of tea; rare black truffes; the most expensive vintage champagnes and distilled fruit spirits; and more types of herbs and spices than we thought existed.

Flahec

135 Rue Mouffetard. (F6).

A captivating, tiny fish shop is at the downhill end of this pedestrian market street. It offers some of the best choice in fish and shellfish, including many varieties that are not usually seen elsewhere in Paris.

Fruits de France

72 Rue de Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75001. (F5).

On the quaint island street, at no. 72, shopkeeper Turpin has both fruits and vegetables and also all kinds of game. Among the vegetables the many types of mushrooms are noteworthy and also the various spices and herbs. The game is available according to the season and never comes out of a freezer.

There are wild geese and ducks, sparrows, pheasants, grouses, partridges, hares, deer and also some cultivated fowl.

Gambrinus

13 Rue des Blancs-Manteaux. (F4).

In the Marais, just east of Palais Beaubourg, is the best beer shop in the city. It offers more than 400 types of beer from 34 countries, including mixed cases according to countries or brewing techniques. Also sold are books on beer and brewing. The shop also boasts of many whisky brands and malts.

Haupois

35 Rue des Deux-Ponts, 75001. (F5).

The best bread available in Paris is baked by Haupois in the street that crosses the middle of Ile de Saint-Louis. He also does some patisserie. The methods are traditional, fitting the 17th Century aura of this delightful island.

Hédirard

21 Place Madeleine. (D3).

The second most world famous gourmet shop is also beside the Madeleine. It is an all-round store. Among the most notable items are chocolates, jams, 25 years old vinegar, 80 types of jar preserves, coffee, goose liver.

Not to be forgotten are the 300.000 bottles of wine, priced from FFr. 11 to FFr. 13,000. There are 17 vintages of Château Latour alone. And the almost unobtainable Romanée-Conti is only sold here.

Lecomte

76 Rue de Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75001. (F5).

If we walk eastward along Rue de Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, we find this cheese shop on the northern side, one of the top few ones in Paris. The cheeses develop in the care of the shopkeeper himself.

Each type of cheese has its season, münster in January, roquefort in February, camembert in March, brie in April, goat cheeses in May, non-sterilized cow-cheeses in June, white cheeses in July, reblochon in August, etc.

Maison du Miel

24 Rue Vignon. (D3).

Near the Madeleine a honey shop offers over 30 different types of honey, including mountain honey and Hungarian acacia honey, all displayed at the counter. Other specialized honey shops are in the city, but this is the most important one.

Olivier

77 Rue de Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75001. (F5).

The best olives in the city are of course sold in a special olive shop. In addition to many varieties of olives, numerous types of oils are sold, not only cooking oils, but also lubricating oils from sheep legs to name an example. Not to be forgotten are the many types of vinegar, including a champagne vinegar.

Pain de Sucre

12 Rue Jean-du-Bellay, 75001. (F5).

In a small side-street near the western tip of Ile de Saint-Louis there is a tiny, enthralling shop of sweets, jams and sugars. There are a few varieties of rhubarb, jam and coffee chocolates. also fresh truffles of the day, without preservations. And all kinds of sugars, including various candied ones.

Petrossian

18 Boulevard Latour-Maubourg. (C4).

Caviar is the specialty of this gourmet shop, near the Esplanade. It always sells Russian beluga, sevruga and oscietre. Its smoked salmon is also considered the best in town.

Verlet

256 Rue Saint-Honoré. (D4).

The most aristocratic coffee and tea shop is north of the Tuileries gardens. It sells coffee from all known coffee-producing countries and also from countries such as Hawaii and Papua. Customers can test all these varieties, freshly ground, on the premises, or ask Pierre Verlet to make a special mixture for them. We can also test some of the innumerable teas on the spot.

Bastille Opéra

120 Rue de Lyon, 75012. Phone: 4001 1789. Hours: 11-18 Monday-Saturday. (G5).

A controversial opera building from 1989, a massive and circular building of glass, seating 2700 spectators, inferior to the traditional Garnier Opéra.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

Dublin introductions

Ferðir

History

Dublin was founded by Norse Vikings, mainly Danish, in the 9th and 10th C. They built the first Dublin Castle. The Iri the Vikings in 988 and founded the first Christ Church in 1038. Viking influence continued in Dublin until sh took Dublin from the Vikings in 988 and founded the first Christ Church in 1038. Viking influence continued in Dublin until th by the English in the 12th C., who invaded Ireland several times and held sway in Dublin for most of the time.

English rule was generally savage. Natural catastrophes added to the misery, leading many Irishmen to flee for America. A decisive victory over the English was won in 1921 when all the Irish counties, except six in the northeast, became independent. After a civil war the Irish Free State was founded in 1923 with Dublin as its capital.

Life

The friendly and courteous Irish are a dream come true for travelers. They are helpful and fair in business, as is evident in tourism. It is the easiest and the most relaxed country for travelers. Dubliners share these traits more or less.

The pubs are the social centers of the city. Strangers meet there and almost immediately become friends. Travelers will not be lonely there as the locals are always ready for a chat with strangers. Visitors get smitten by this easy-going atmosphere and gradually start to behave and to think like the local people do.

The city is small, has only half a million inhabitants and the city center covers less than 2 km in radius from College Green. The center is mainly on the southern bank of Liffey, around on Dublin castle, the pedestrian Grafton Street and St Stephen’s Green. This is the oldest part of the city and the most beautiful part. The houses are low and the atmosphere is relaxed.

Pubs

Hours: Monday-Saturday 10:30-23:30, Sunday 12:30-14 & 16-23:30, -23 in winter.

Irish pubs are justly world famous for their easy going and friendly bartenders and customers. Each tavern has its own atmosphere made of its furnishings and clientele.

The pubs are the social centers of Dublin. Strangers meet there and almost immediately become friends. Travelers will not be lonely there as the locals are always ready for a chat with strangers. Visitors get smitten by this easy-going atmosphere and gradually start to behave and to think like the local people do.

The Irish

The friendly and courteous Irish are a dream come true for travelers. They are helpful and fair in business, as is evident in tourism. It is the easiest and the most relaxed country for travelers. Dubliners share these traits more or less.

Embassies

Canada

65 St Stephen’s Green, 2. Phone: 678 1988.

United Kingdom

31 Merrion Road, 4. Phone: 269 5211.

United States

42 Elgin Road, 4. Phone: 668 8777.

Accident

Phone: 999.

Ambulance

Phone: 999.

Complaints

Try Bord Faílte, 14 Upper O’Connell Street, tel. 874 7733.

Dentist

Lincoln Place. Phone: 679 4311.

Dublin Dental Hospital, Lincoln Place, Dublin 2, tel. 679 4311, open 9-11 and 14-16.

Fire

Phone: 999.

Hospital

Phone: 999.

Medical care

Phone: 999.

Pharmacy

Open at normal shopping hours. Closed pharmacies have signs in their windows to point out where there is night duty.

Police

Phone: 999.

Precautions

Ireland is a haven for travelers. There is very little petty crime and almost no violent crime in Ireland. The Irish are also unusually honest people. Businessmen try to give you the best deal available. But there are lots of beggars in central Dublin.

Banks

Hours: Monday-Friday 10-12:30 & 13:30-15.

Some banks are open until 17:00 on Friday and are open at lunchtime. At the airport a bank is open 6:45-22 in summer and 6:45-21 in winter.

Credit cards

Most hotels and restaurants, petrol stations and shops accept credit cards, but pubs and farmhouse accommodations do not.

Electricity

Irish voltage is 220V, same as in Europe. The plugs are different, with three pins as in Britain.

Hotels

Dublin hotels are generally rather clean and well maintained. Small hotels, are numerous and can be very good, even if they do not have TV sets in guest rooms. A bathroom is taken for granted nowadays.

We only include hotels with private bathrooms, and in most cases we also demand a direct telephone line, working air-condition, and peace and silence during the night. Only hotels in the city center are included as we want to avoid long journeys between sightseeing and our afternoon naps.

The price ranges from £57 to £170, in most cases including a substantial breakfast.

We personally tested all the hotels in this database during the winter of 1995-1996 as everything is fickle in this world. We also tested some other hotels that are not included as they were not on par with the best in each price category.

Money

The currency in Ireland is the Irish Punt, £, divided into 100 pence. There are £100, £50, £20, £10 and £5 notes and coins for £1, 50p, 10p, 5p, 2p and 1p.

Prices

Prices have lately become stable in Ireland.

Restaurants

Ireland’s wealth of agricultural resources is not reflected well enough in its restaurants. They are generally mediocre. The best ones tend to be French. Asian ethnic restaurants are often a good bet.

Shopping

Hours: Monday-Saturday 9/9:30-17:30/18.

Some shops are open Thursday to 20:00.

Tipping

Service is generally included in hotel and restaurant bills. Porters get £0,50-1 per bag, hairdressers, taxi drivers and guides get 10%.

Toilets

Restaurant lavatories are generally good. In pubs they are variable, but open for all comers.

Tourist office

14 Upper O’Connell Street. Phone: 874 7733.

The Irish National Tourist Board, Bord Fáilte.

Water

Tap water is quite drinkable.

Accommodation

Take up direct contact with the hotels before you leave from home. Use the phone or the fax.

Airport

The Dublin airport is 11 km from the center. A bus goes there every 20 minutes 7:30-20:50 and takes 30 minutes to get there. The price is £2.50. A taxi will also be 30 minutes and costs £12. For information on arrivals and departures dial 37 9900.

News

The Irish newspapers are in English, such as Irish Times, Irish Independent and Irish Press. The British dailies are widely available. A biweekly information magazine for travelers is In Dublin.

Phone

The Irish country code is 353. The local code for Dublin is 1 when dialing from abroad and 01 when dialing from outside Dublin in Ireland. The foreign code from Ireland is 00. Northern Ireland has the British country code of 44.

Post

O’Connell Street.

The main Post Office at O’Connell Street is open Monday-Saturday 9-20 and Sunday 10:30-18.

Taxis

Taxis are available at several stands in the city center.

Traffic

The most practical way to get around in central Dublin is by walking.

Traffic in Dublin is heavy and almost comes to a standstill at rush hours. Outside of Dublin traffic is generally light. The Irish drive on the left like the British, so you have be careful to look in the right direction.

Don’t use cycles on narrow country roads as many drivers speed blindly through bends.

Cuisine

Dublin is not a place for any recognizable Irish cooking. Most quality restaurants in Dublin go in for French cuisine. The Irish have embraced French cuisine as suitable for their upper class dining.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson

London excursions

Ferðir

Greenwich

Greenwich is downriver. It is not only famous for the meridian of zero longitude in geography. It also has woodland surrounding the Royal Observatory, the National Maritime Museum, open 10-17 and the racing quick tea clipper Cutty Sark. The boat trip to Greenwich takes 45 minutes each way.

Kew

Upriver the Kew gardens with the Royal Botanical Gardens are open 10-16/17. They are graceful, covering over 120 hectares with over 25,000 different plants. The boat brings you to Kew in 75 minutes.

Hampton Court

Farther upriver than the Kew gardens, there is the elegant Hampton Court, the palace of Cardinal Wolsey, expropriated by Henry VIII, including a lot of paintings and objects of art now shown to the public and some of the most glorious gardens in the world.

Windsor Castle

Hours: Open 11-16, except Friday 13-16 and Sunday 14-16.

Just beyond Heathrow airport is the small town of Windsor with Windsor Castle, a summer residence of the Queen.

It is the oldest and greatest residential castle in the world, built by William the Conqueror as a circular tower, but added on during the centuries. The most famous part is the St George’s chapel, one of the best examples of English architecture in the 15th C.

The castle houses some collections, open to the public, such as the Queen Mary’s Dolls House and the State Apartments, when the queen is not using them herself.

With children in tow it is now time to visit the Windsor Safari Park.

Windsor Safari Park

An open wildlife park where we can see, partly through closed car windows, some lions, tigers, elephants, zebras, rhinos, camels, monkeys and deer, to name the best known examples. The porpoises and dolphins perform at regular intervals.

Another amusing place for children is on the way back to London. It is Thorpe Park in Staines, just south of the Heathrow airport.

1996

© Jónas Kristjánsson